Also how go is the surround on this.. I dont want to go more than 700 for a good bar for music and movies.
thanks for your input
It's just me but their feedback is solid. If the price was right, I'd order the soundbar from them. Between Ebay and PayPal, you'd be covered. Any support issues could be handled through Yamaha directly. If you have a specific question, did you try e-mailing them, either directly or through Ebay?
I think image location is where the left and right channels will sound like they coming from. I left these as wide as possible.
Focal length should always be a good bit short of the reflective wall or short of your sitting area. Basically all 16 speakers point at the focal point and the distance from the bar to where the beams converge is the focal length. After the focal point at the designated focal length the sound field of that channel starts to widen.
I have my center channel at 2ft focal length which creates a nice diffused sound and so voices aren't obviously coming from the bar. My left and right channels have focal lengths of 6 ft and I sit 13 ft from the bar. My surround left and right are at focal length of 7-8ft.
Watching TV right now and loving hearing clapping from the audience to each side. Don't fret, took me 4 weeks of tweaking before I got everything dialed in. My recommendation is put all your focal lengths at 4-6 ft. Adjust your beam angles until you've optimized your soundstage. Then start playing with focal lengths. You'll notice a big difference in sound at 1 ft vs 4+ ft of focal length. Good luck.
Is it true this soundbar isn't good unless you can bounce the sound off walls? That is, a regular 4 wall room won't be good for this soundbar? I read that somewhere... is that true? I have a regular 10x12 room with a bay window that I want to put a soundbar in, and probably this one, will it work well? Thanks!
Yes you want walls to bounce sound off of. Check yamahas website and it shows the optimal placement. If you have no walls to utilize you can go with a cheaper soundbar that attempts to trick your ears into recognizing the wider soundstage. Check out yamaha's yxx-401 or 201.
You also need to be a person that likes spending a few hours perfecting numerous settings. If you aren't the 2200 doesn't have a good auto setup in my opinion. The 401 and 201 will be better plug and play options. In short, with walls and willingness to tweak settings you can replicate a low end HTIB system, but without all the wires and speakers.
I have just purchased a 2200, I'm using it with a Panasonic TX-50ST50B and a PS3.
I have the Panny and the 2200 connected via HDMI using hdmi socket 2 (arc) to the hdmi in on the 2200
The PS3 is connected directly to the HDMI 1 socket on the 2200.
All devices have HDMI control (CEC) turned on and the TV has its audio out set to Home Theatre.
Everything is working great, but there are a few little niggles I'm trying to solve.
• I want to limit the number of remotes the family has to use, with the current setup they can turn on the TV and the 2200 will turn on automatically
• Increasing the volume via the TV remote causes the 2200 volume to increase (no sound output from the TV speakers)
• Turning the TV off from its remote turns the 2200 off as well
• Switching the TV to HDMI 2 does not turn the PS3 on
• The TV remote does not control the PS3
• The PS3 does not switch off when the TV is switched off
* all these used to work when the PS3 was directly connected to the TV
If anyone has any suggestions on how my setup could be tweaked to fix the above problems I would be very grateful.
I have an HTPC using an nVidia GT 430 card to pass sound/video to my YSP-2200 soundbar which passes video on to my Samsung UN55D8000. I control everything with my Logitech remote and primarily interface with the computer using XBMC. Here's the issue:
If I turn off the YSP and TV (leaving the computer running), the next time I turn them on I will experience an extremely slow interface with my computer. Video will stutter and no sound will come out while using XBMC or with any other program. Mouse movements are jerky, etc. The fix every time is just to turn the YSP off and on. Once I do that, things work flawlessly.
I'm not ever sure where to start to begin troubleshooting. Any thoughts?
Curious what settings you guys run on this system. Not the Intellibeam settings but the sound setup settings. More specifically... tone control, subwoofer, and DRC settings?
And also, if I use the optical cable vs HDMI, will I still get the same encodings? I hate using ARC on my TV.... it does weird things with my soundbar. It randomly switches to the "TV" input so I figured I'd just run an optical cable to the soundbar.
EDIT: Added my settings...
Subwoofer level: 0.5
I'm just confused on how to set up tone/sub. Do I just play around with the settings and set it to my liking? How much bass/sub level, treble, etc?
I know this is months and months late, but turn off your HDMI control in the sound bar settings, and you won't randomly switch or do weird things on you. It will also stay on the last HDMI selection.
It was driving me nuts that it was always switching back to TV when I turned the bar on again.
Anyone feed the 2200 from a media server? How do you lip sync?
Connecting to it will be:
- Philips 42" HDTV (bought at least 2-3 years back)
- Mac Mini [this model doesn't send audio over miniHDMI -> HDMI]
- Blu-ray Player
Would the best way to connect these be:
Turntable -> YSP-2200 RCA In
Blu-ray Player -> YSP-2200 HDMI In
Cable-Box -> YSP-2200 HDMI In
Mac Mini -> YSP-2200 Optical In
Mac Mini -> YSP-2200 HDMI In
YSP-2200 HDMI Out -> TV HDMI In 1
Does this mean the TV can always stay on HDMI 1 while switching between watching Cable/Mac Mini/Blu-ray, while switching the source on the YSP-2200 would change which video gets output through the HDMI Out to the TV HDMI 1? So then the only remotes needed would be Cable Remote (controls TV/Cable-Box), YSP-2200 Remote, Blu-ray remote?
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: How would you add another woofer in parallel to this unit? What kind would you need to substitute the one it comes with if necessary?
For everything else, your TV can stay on the HDMI1 input.
I do have a phono pre-amp to go between the turntable and YSP-2200.
Shouldn't be too much trouble to switch TV and Soundbar for separate A/V for the mini.
I tried to connect the game consoles directly to the TV set and all worked fine. I also swapped the HDMI cables between consoles and the soundbar but with no luck the problem still persist. This indicates the problem maybe from the HDMI module.
I contact the local repair centre and they replied that probably the HDMI digital board was burnt due to power surge/dip.
As there is no warrenty cover for the soundbar (i bought it from Amazon US with bargain price 2 years ago), and the spare need to be ordered from Japan, they estimated the repair cost will be more than USD400.
I'm struggling on the next move: get it repair or go for an alternative soundbar.
on the menu it say Dual, then i have 3 choice , Dual Main, Dual Main+Sub and Dual Sub, does anyone know what are this settings for and what should be the right choice, thanks in advanced
Sony XBR-X940E | Yamaha CX-A5100 | Anthem MCA 50| Sunfire TGA-7201 | SVS 16-Ultra Subwoofer| 7.1.4 Klipsch RP-450C - RP-260F - RP-240S - RP-160M - 4 In-Ceiling MartinLogan | Nvidia Shield TV | Xbox One | AppleTV
English Is Not My First Language
Does anyone here know the latest firmware number for the YSP-2200? I've tried emailing Yamaha and they don't even know!
Here is what they told me:
We only have one firmware version available. You will have the latest firmware version.
We don't have a firmware version number. Only one is available.
I am considering getting one of these but the TV is in the corner of the room and its a conservatory with Vertical Blinds on all sides.
Will this work and will I get surround sound?
OR will it be better to purchase a different kind?
What should I know about this soundbar? Any tricks that can save me time?
I plan on hooking up my WDTV Live, Apple TV, Sony BRAVIA TV and my laptop (on occasion, via HDMI) to the soundbar, to take advantage of its sound. Any advice? It's just like my Denon AVR 2310 in the sense that it can handle these various sources, I just have to select which source I want to use at the time?
Finally, does this soundbar have a calibration software, similar to Audyssey on my Denon?
I am new to the world of HiFi if you can't tell
I've spent the last few days working on it. I wholeheartedly agree with the CEC headaches. My Harmony Ultimate had major problems with it. I currently have it set up as receiving the 2nd output on the Onkyo 3010 in my HT (Gawd I love how this receiver has dual HDMI outputs that can output 2 different sources at once...). So, technically, the soundbar is being fed by a 360, an Xbox One, a PS3, a PS4, a Popcorn Hour , 2 Mac Mini's, a Tivo Premiere, and a Series 3 Tivo.
For some reason, Plex on the Mac Mini from my main HT just didn't work. I'm not sure if it was a matter of the fact that it was going through both the rcvr and the soundbar, but it would incessantly stutter. So I got the 2nd Mini ($500 refurbs FTW!), didn't have it go through the rcvr first, and it works great, even w/ my LPCM BR rips.
Now, for the sound...
First, let's just say that this master bedroom was built for a soundbar. It is pretty much a straightforward rectangle, with no weird angles. I figured I'd be able to get past my obsession with speaker size and extension, and the imaging would be the part I'd enjoy the most. I went through the auto setup with the mic, and got started on surround content. The imaging isn't bad. The gunfight scenes from the 3:10 to Yuma BR showed the directionality I was looking for.
But I have to say it -- the sound quality on this thing is just depressing for me. Dialogue is clear (probably its main benefit when compared to the Samsung TV spkrs). Sports broadcasts do have a little more ambience. But music w/ bass, and any action movie w/ LFE, is largely muddy and lacking in quality. Part of the reason I got this thing was the possibility of just adding a better sub with speaker-level inputs, and I'm probably going to pull that trigger at some point, b/c, for anyone who's used to full subs (my other subs are an Epik Conquest, an SVS 16-46 PC+, 2 MFW-15's, and an Epik Legend), the included 'sub' is reminiscent of the mid-90's when I had those Onkyo HTiB subs, but seems worse (granted, my ear has probably changed over the past 15 yrs)...
As for the different listening modes -- I think I need more time to see if changing surround modes is worth a damn, depending on content.