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Soundbars > Ysp 2200
ttlnb's Avatar ttlnb 01:52 PM 12-29-2013
It should match the bars volume so it is not too soft and doesn't drown out dialogue.

phie's Avatar phie 02:21 PM 12-29-2013
Okay, thanks. How do I change the sound codecs, or is that done automatically depending on the audio source?
ttlnb's Avatar ttlnb 08:14 PM 12-29-2013
The codecs like dolby digital, DTS, etc? Sometimes, you can choose them on the disc but mostly it is automatic. The sound bar should play what it receives.
phie's Avatar phie 08:15 PM 12-29-2013
OK, thanks. But what if the mkv has multiple audio tracks. How do I select that I want DTS instead of DD for instance? Is that done on my WDTV Live now? On my Denon 2310 AVR, I selected the surround codec directly on the receiver...
ttlnb's Avatar ttlnb 05:24 AM 12-30-2013
I am not sure how to do it with WDTV or MKV but changing codecs is usually done in the source device. I'm not sure about the Denon. Were you streaming video files from the Denon directly from your network and not through another device? Usually, on receivers you can change surround modes and not codecs. On discs it is usually in the options menu.
leepod's Avatar leepod 10:46 AM 12-30-2013
Hi guys

I'm having a very similar problem. I have been using the ysp with an old Pioneer plasma TV for about six weeks with no problems. As soon as I started using my new Panasonic TV the problem has started. If I turn on my sky reciever along with the ysp I get the sound from the sky box with no problems. However as soon as I turn on the tv the sound to the soundbar is lost. Regardless of which input I select, blue ray, sky or games console the sound is lost. The only way to restore the sound is to turn off the ysp at the mains and then restore the power. I have tried as suggested above installing an optical lead from the tv to the ysp and from the sky box to the ysp in order to receive the 5.1 signal from the sky box. But nothing seems to cure my problem. Can anyone help as this is not ideal, who wants to be turning the mains off before every use

Please Help
Lee
ttlnb's Avatar ttlnb 06:53 PM 12-30-2013
How are your components connected now? I suggest all your devices go into the YSP and then the HDMI out of the YSP to the TV. If using the TV sources then run an optical cable back to the TV. don't try to use ARC. Turn off CEC in all your device.
Mr Paw's Avatar Mr Paw 07:15 PM 01-01-2014
Had my unit for a week now and have gotten all of the angles figured out for my oddly shaped room. Sounds good to me and I like not having speakers all over the place.

The only difficulty has been in figuring out the focal length. Is it just me or do the examples in the manual leave you guessing?

My room is 38 by 20 overall but it is not a rectangle. It's shaped like a capital L. The longest distance traveled by one of the sound beams is 68 feet at an 81deg angle. The suggested focal length is 24ft on that run. I've tried drawing it out but if I follow the examples I have to draw lines from either side of the unit and cross them at 24ft. At an 81deg angle it doesn't lend itself to easy replication because the YSP is not very wide to begin with. Wish there was CAD solution for this on Yamaha's website.
leepod's Avatar leepod 09:42 AM 01-02-2014
I have all my devices running via hdmi through the soundbar. I am a little new to this can you please explain what you mean by turning off CEC and how do I do this ?
ttlnb's Avatar ttlnb 11:36 AM 01-02-2014
CEC is called different thing in different devices. In the YSP turn off HDMI control. On many Panasonic models it is called Viera link, so you want to turn that off. I'm not sure what it is called on the sky box but turning it off on the Yamaha and Panasonic should correct your problem.
markcorrado1's Avatar markcorrado1 08:53 AM 01-16-2014
I've had my YSP-2200 for about 2 weeks now, Out of the box I wasn't really impressed with this sound bar, coming from a Sony HTCT100 and Sony HTCT550. The subwoofer that comes with the 2200 is terrible compared to the Sony bars. The bass on the HTCT550 sub blows away the sub on the 2200, Yahama could of done a better job considering how expensive this bar is compared to the competition (retail $999). Luckily I got my 2200 from Amazon for $550 smile.gif

Setup of the bar is pretty easy and understanding all the different features are straight forward, I only had issues with figuring out how to connect the newer Monoprice Redmere HDMI cables, had to make sure I put the TV end of the cable in one of the 3 HDMI ports on the 2200 and then the Source end goes to your A/V device PS3/Cable box/ DVD player. After watching different shows/movies/music, I was impressed with the way the bar throws out sound, but what kept bugging me is the bass coming from that weak excuse of a Subwoofer. I kept looking through this thread and I saw one person was able to add a Polk sub to their 2200 with success. I went on the hunt for a sub and luckily Amazon had the Polk PSW10 on sale for $100 with 4 1/2 stars from over 1200 reviews.

I added the Polk sub to my system and recalibrated with the mic, I wasn't very happy with the results, the crossover was way to high and the mids were completely off. It made the sound coming out of the soundbar very echoed and small; can't really explain but your ears didn't like what was coming out of the bar. Due to my busy schedule I waited a few days and started tinkering with the settings on the Polk sub and 2200 bar. I was finally about to get it right last night smile.gif I hooked backup the original sub that came with the 2200 and calibrated with the mic. I noticed in the beam settings that the sub placement was 12ft with the sub from 2200 but with the polk sub it was set at 22ft. I left the calibration the same with the sub from the 2200 and then just switched to the Polk sub, on the back of the Polk sub I then turned the knob for "Low Pass" 3/4 to the right and turned the knob for "Volume" a little to the left from the center position and left the switch for "Phase" at 0. Now this soundbar has come to life, what a difference the Polk sub has made. It's comparable to the old Harman Kardon sub I had with my old 5.1 system.

Also I connected the speaker wire coming form the soundbar to the "Speaker Level Input" right\black and "Speaker Level Input" left\red (hope that makes sense)



If you have a YSP-2200 sound bar go out and buy the Polk PSW10 subwoofer and I think you'll be very happy with this sound bar, now this blows away my HTCT550 and I think this a good medium if your on a budget and can't afford the higher priced sound bars from Sony/Yahama/Martin Logan. I was so unhappy with the sub on the 2200 I was going to return it for the new Sony HT-ST7, but I really didn't want to spend the $1300, I'm really happy with the YSP-2200 now and at 1/2 the cost of the HT-ST7 biggrin.gif
slumpey's Avatar slumpey 04:28 PM 02-10-2014
Are people still loving this soundbar, I am really interesting in getting one because of the slim size and hdmi inputs/outputs. My only reservation is that it came out a few years ago.
StasM's Avatar StasM 02:05 AM 03-05-2014

Hello!

Will I manage soundbar and TV (Samsung F8000) with one remote from TV?


trueno92's Avatar trueno92 08:02 AM 03-05-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by markcorrado1 View Post

I've had my YSP-2200 for about 2 weeks now, Out of the box I wasn't really impressed with this sound bar, coming from a Sony HTCT100 and Sony HTCT550. The subwoofer that comes with the 2200 is terrible compared to the Sony bars. The bass on the HTCT550 sub blows away the sub on the 2200, Yahama could of done a better job considering how expensive this bar is compared to the competition (retail $999). Luckily I got my 2200 from Amazon for $550 smile.gif

Setup of the bar is pretty easy and understanding all the different features are straight forward, I only had issues with figuring out how to connect the newer Monoprice Redmere HDMI cables, had to make sure I put the TV end of the cable in one of the 3 HDMI ports on the 2200 and then the Source end goes to your A/V device PS3/Cable box/ DVD player. After watching different shows/movies/music, I was impressed with the way the bar throws out sound, but what kept bugging me is the bass coming from that weak excuse of a Subwoofer. I kept looking through this thread and I saw one person was able to add a Polk sub to their 2200 with success. I went on the hunt for a sub and luckily Amazon had the Polk PSW10 on sale for $100 with 4 1/2 stars from over 1200 reviews.

I added the Polk sub to my system and recalibrated with the mic, I wasn't very happy with the results, the crossover was way to high and the mids were completely off. It made the sound coming out of the soundbar very echoed and small; can't really explain but your ears didn't like what was coming out of the bar. Due to my busy schedule I waited a few days and started tinkering with the settings on the Polk sub and 2200 bar. I was finally about to get it right last night smile.gif I hooked backup the original sub that came with the 2200 and calibrated with the mic. I noticed in the beam settings that the sub placement was 12ft with the sub from 2200 but with the polk sub it was set at 22ft. I left the calibration the same with the sub from the 2200 and then just switched to the Polk sub, on the back of the Polk sub I then turned the knob for "Low Pass" 3/4 to the right and turned the knob for "Volume" a little to the left from the center position and left the switch for "Phase" at 0. Now this soundbar has come to life, what a difference the Polk sub has made. It's comparable to the old Harman Kardon sub I had with my old 5.1 system.

Also I connected the speaker wire coming form the soundbar to the "Speaker Level Input" right\black and "Speaker Level Input" left\red (hope that makes sense)



If you have a YSP-2200 sound bar go out and buy the Polk PSW10 subwoofer and I think you'll be very happy with this sound bar, now this blows away my HTCT550 and I think this a good medium if your on a budget and can't afford the higher priced sound bars from Sony/Yahama/Martin Logan. I was so unhappy with the sub on the 2200 I was going to return it for the new Sony HT-ST7, but I really didn't want to spend the $1300, I'm really happy with the YSP-2200 now and at 1/2 the cost of the HT-ST7 biggrin.gif
Hey mark, thanks for this input. I was going to buy a Polk sub because in canada, decent subs are hard to find.

I actually posted this very question to avrant podcast and they had the same suggestion. I am awaiting a larger sub that will crossover at 140hz so I will leave the Yamaha dual driver box in the chain. By removing the Yamaha included unit, you will now experience a wide gap of no audible sound under ~500hz to whatever you set the crossover on the sub at. This is a frequency hole that the Yamaha sub fills in with its frequency response ranging from 50hz - 500hz.
I will
Make sure to post my results, but your post has. Me pointed in the right direction!
trueno92's Avatar trueno92 08:13 AM 03-05-2014
Foc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Paw View Post

Had my unit for a week now and have gotten all of the angles figured out for my oddly shaped room. Sounds good to me and I like not having speakers all over the place.

The only difficulty has been in figuring out the focal length. Is it just me or do the examples in the manual leave you guessing?

My room is 38 by 20 overall but it is not a rectangle. It's shaped like a capital L. The longest distance traveled by one of the sound beams is 68 feet at an 81deg angle. The suggested focal length is 24ft on that run. I've tried drawing it out but if I follow the examples I have to draw lines from either side of the unit and cross them at 24ft. At an 81deg angle it doesn't lend itself to easy replication because the YSP is not very wide to begin with. Wish there was CAD solution for this on Yamaha's website.

Focal length is the distance to impact at the first point of reflection. This goes the same for the rear beams that take 2 points (last one off the rear wall)
RockinZombie's Avatar RockinZombie 08:45 PM 03-14-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by trueno92 View Post


Hey mark, thanks for this input. I was going to buy a Polk sub because in canada, decent subs are hard to find.

I actually posted this very question to avrant podcast and they had the same suggestion. I am awaiting a larger sub that will crossover at 140hz so I will leave the Yamaha dual driver box in the chain. By removing the Yamaha included unit, you will now experience a wide gap of no audible sound under ~500hz to whatever you set the crossover on the sub at. This is a frequency hole that the Yamaha sub fills in with its frequency response ranging from 50hz - 500hz.
I will
Make sure to post my results, but your post has. Me pointed in the right direction!

hey,

 

Was just wondering if you were able to add the sub to the 2200. Just got the 2200 and after 2 hours of tinkering I am really happy. Might add a sub down the road. Just curious, how would you leave the yamaha unit in the chain and add another sub? How do I add two subs in parallel? 


trueno92's Avatar trueno92 06:17 PM 03-15-2014
Ah, I haven't got the sub yet as it's just awaiting for me to pick it up across the boarder!

Basically you would daisy chain it out:

1. Pick a sub that has high level (speaker level inputs) and preferably also high level outputs.
2. Wire the bar to the new sub and then wire the outs to the soundbar sub. If your new sub doesn't have high level out, then just wire it directly off the same binding posts as the inputs.

Will work a treat and will defiantly fill in everything below 50-60hz as really low bass leaves a bit to be desired!

The in room response of the included sub isn't bad, but I think the new addition will reduce the need to amp up the sub level in the soundbar settings!
audiotoast's Avatar audiotoast 11:03 PM 03-15-2014

I also have the YSP-2200 but its settings have me confused.

 

I've set the bar to do stereo-only, but when I switch the source to a network-assisted storage and play .mkv files off that device, the bar automatically switches to surround (orange light on front) even when set to stereo. Am I missing something here?


buster6070's Avatar buster6070 06:24 PM 04-09-2014
Does anyone have this soundbar paired up with an Xbox One?? It's not listed under one of the devices to program the Xbox One to control. I was wondering if there's some other Yamaha product I could choose so the Xbox One would at least power it on and off. Not worried about controlling the volume through it, because I still use my cable remote for that.
ttlnb's Avatar ttlnb 01:40 AM 04-10-2014
I think you are expecting too much from these factory remotes. I would get a decent universal remote which can automate your system and make your life easier by using one remote for everything.
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