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post #61 of 308 Old 06-09-2014, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

If its bridged it 1plus red , two plus black

Thanks! I apologize in advance for my ignorance, but bridged meaning the amp (iNuke3000 DSP) is running only one sub? In my case, it will eventually run two subs.

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post #62 of 308 Old 06-10-2014, 10:07 AM
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I am thinking about taking the jump to DIY and was just curious, if I was going to go out and buy a subwoofer and wanted similar performance to a mini-marty with the Dayton ultimax 18" and an Inuke1000 or 3000 what would I be looking at buying and how much would I end up spending? I am just looking at how much I would spend in time and materials versus just going out and buying one that is already put together and ready to go? 

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post #63 of 308 Old 06-10-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Noman74656 View Post

Thanks! I apologize in advance for my ignorance, but bridged meaning the amp (iNuke3000 DSP) is running only one sub? In my case, it will eventually run two subs.

I might have answered my own question:



So wiring each sub this way, according to Behringer, about 900 Watts for each of the D4's?

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post #64 of 308 Old 06-10-2014, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kwell88 View Post

I am thinking about taking the jump to DIY and was just curious, if I was going to go out and buy a subwoofer and wanted similar performance to a mini-marty with the Dayton ultimax 18" and an Inuke1000 or 3000 what would I be looking at buying and how much would I end up spending? I am just looking at how much I would spend in time and materials versus just going out and buying one that is already put together and ready to go? 

One minimarty with inuke3000dsp and 1500 watts to the Dayton would cost you 700 to build and nothing under 2k would match it from 17 to 80hz. Put the uxl18 driver in and give it 2200 watts from the inuke3000dsp and you have performance of 2.5k at 1k cost. Many times you can triple the cost of diy sub's for commercial one.
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post #65 of 308 Old 06-10-2014, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Noman74656 View Post

I might have answered my own question:



So wiring each sub this way, according to Behringer, about 900 Watts for each of the D4's?
D4 wiring should give you 1100 watts from nuke.
Check with ltd for wiring. I still make mistakes and don't want to give you bad advice.
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post #66 of 308 Old 06-10-2014, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

D4 wiring should give you 1100 watts from nuke.
Check with ltd for wiring. I still make mistakes and don't want to give you bad advice.

Thank you very much! I sent him a PM. If I'm lucky, maybe I will get a response tonight so I can fire the cubes up smile.gif Of all the people who bought your flat packs, I have to be the slowest assembler rolleyes.gif But it has been a cool experience converting one of my basement rooms into a little work shop.

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post #67 of 308 Old 06-10-2014, 05:07 PM - Thread Starter
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If he doesn't get back to you in a couple of hours maybe just start a thread with inuke wiring. Lots of smarter then me dudes here.
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post #68 of 308 Old 06-10-2014, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post


One minimarty with inuke3000dsp and 1500 watts to the Dayton would cost you 700 to build and nothing under 2k would match it from 17 to 80hz. Put the uxl18 driver in and give it 2200 watts from the inuke3000dsp and you have performance of 2.5k at 1k cost. Many times you can triple the cost of diy sub's for commercial one.

 

 

Sounds good to me. I have a few other projects I need to get done first but I think this will go on my to-do list, I am currently using a SVS PB-1000 and I think it does pretty well but sounds like I should notice an improvement. Just out of curiosity, I am assuming you are using ply-wood is one kind better than another? I was thinking about using some birch faced and staining it if you think that would work?

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post #69 of 308 Old 06-10-2014, 08:00 PM
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norm,
 
i run inuke 3kdsp's in my system ( 2 of them ) and your wiring is correct.  if you run each sub like your diagram the inuke puts out about 1100 watts per channel at a ( 2 ohm load ).  
 
( this is same way i run my 3 18inch subs, and soon to be 4 )
 
also, remember to set your High pass filter ( HPF ) to protect your subs.  (just ask if you need help with this ) 

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post #70 of 308 Old 06-12-2014, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by kevings View Post
norm,
 
i run inuke 3kdsp's in my system ( 2 of them ) and your wiring is correct.  if you run each sub like your diagram the inuke puts out about 1100 watts per channel at a ( 2 ohm load ).  
 
( this is same wau i run my 3 18inch subs, and soon to be 4 )
 
also, remember to set your High pass filter ( HPF ) to protect your subs.  (just ask if you need help with this ) 
Thanks Kevings! I am sure I will come come back and ask for help on that LTD02 also sent me a PM shortly after I asked confirming the diagram I posted is correct for my setup. I soldiered the 1+ and the 1- connections on the speakton terminals last night, so I'm almost ready to drop those mean looking SI D4 18's in!

Also, how have you attached the drivers to your cabinets? I read something about someone using tee nuts and bolts, but I don't see how that works since the baffle lip is too narrow for them to get a grip. Are people using the #6 1.25" flat head screws for this and driving them in after pre-drilling the hole?

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post #71 of 308 Old 06-12-2014, 09:05 AM
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To attach my drivers I simply predrilled holes and then use coarse threaded spax screws ( 1.25 inches iirc ).

Tnuts and bolts works too, but I found that the screws through a double baffle, gave me plenty of bite and held the woofer on very well.

ps - i just noticed your in Minneapolis. I'm in California, but im leaving to Minneapolis this Monday for a meeting. What's your favorite steak house there?
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post #72 of 308 Old 06-12-2014, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by kevings View Post
To attach my drivers I simply predrilled holes and then use coarse threaded spax screws ( 1.25 inches iirc ).

Tnuts and bolts works too, but I found that the screws through a double baffle, gave me plenty of bite and held the woofer on very well.

ps - i just noticed your in Minneapolis. I'm in California, but im leaving to Minneapolis this Monday for a meeting. What's your favorite steak house there?
Thanks for the tip! I think I will go that route. My driver will actually be flush mounted, so the screws would only go through one layer of the double baffle (3/4" MDF). Think they would still hold well?

You are coming to MN at the right time, weather has been great! I highly recommend Fogo de Chao. It's a Brazilian steak house in downtown Minneapolis. Absolutely superb! even despite being a chain. Another of my favorites is Manny's Steak house. I don't think you'll be disappointed with either

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post #73 of 308 Old 06-12-2014, 10:46 AM
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Thanks for the recommendations Norm, Ill be sure to check out one of the places while im there.

i think you'd probably be ok, but i prefer to mount the driver into at least 1.5 inches of material.

idea.... if your going to flush mount the driver why not take a few small pieces of scrap and glue them to the bottom of the actual piece that the driver will be screwed into? Glue them in where you think your pilot holes will be. Let that all dry and then drill your pilot holes after that, and then when you mount the driver, even though your flush mouting, the screw will still actually be going through 2, 3/4 inch pieces of wood. You should have more bite / a more sturdy mounting job, this way.

I hope what i wrote makes sense. There have been plenty of guys on the forum that have done this, so if someone here has a picture, maybe then can post it to help you out.
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post #74 of 308 Old 06-12-2014, 10:51 AM
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post #75 of 308 Old 06-12-2014, 11:20 AM
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Thanks for the recommendations Norm, Ill be sure to check out one of the places while im there.

i think you'd probably be ok, but i prefer to mount the driver into at least 1.5 inches of material.

idea.... if your going to flush mount the driver why not take a few small pieces of scrap and glue them to the bottom of the actual piece that the driver will be screwed into? Glue them in where you think your pilot holes will be. Let that all dry and then drill your pilot holes after that, and then when you mount the driver, even though your flush mouting, the screw will still actually be going through 2, 3/4 inch pieces of wood. You should have more bite / a more sturdy mounting job, this way.

I hope what i wrote makes sense. There have been plenty of guys on the forum that have done this, so if someone here has a picture, maybe then can post it to help you out.
That's an excellent idea! I have plenty of scrap wood from attempting to cut the internal supports for a wedge fit that will work perfectly.

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post #76 of 308 Old 06-13-2014, 08:27 AM
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Also, just to double check, I soldiered the 1+ and the 1- connections on the speakton terminals. Is that correct for each D4 powered by one iNuke3000?

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post #77 of 308 Old 06-13-2014, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I just put first coat of finish on my minimarty with uxl18.

And


After I am done with the finish I will take better pics. Tomorrow I start piecing together the video.
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post #78 of 308 Old 06-14-2014, 01:59 AM
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Looking good Donny!
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post #79 of 308 Old 06-15-2014, 08:16 PM
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Thanks for the demo yesterday Donny. For my benefit and yours, I hope you're back to work soon.
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post #80 of 308 Old 06-15-2014, 10:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Me too,
If nothing is resolved in the next two weeks I can still cut a pack for you with my skillsaw.
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post #81 of 308 Old 06-16-2014, 09:05 AM
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That sub is starting to look like fine furniture Donny!
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post #82 of 308 Old 06-16-2014, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Yours up and running ?
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post #83 of 308 Old 06-16-2014, 12:38 PM
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Not yet But almost! I have the wire connections soldiered to the connector, but needed more foam (which should arrive today) to finish dampening the box, then ready to go!

I have people coming over for a movie night Friday, so the pressure is on to have them ready to show off

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post #84 of 308 Old 06-16-2014, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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You will love it. Your movie night will be popular
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post #85 of 308 Old 06-16-2014, 04:22 PM
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I feel I must be the slllllllllllllllloooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwest assembler on this forum

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post #86 of 308 Old 06-16-2014, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey LeMans and you were my first two customers and neither one of u has it up and running
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post #87 of 308 Old 06-19-2014, 11:55 AM
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I'm curious into what this is. Is someone pre building the enclosure? And then you just have to buy the driver and amp?

Anyone from ohio?
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post #88 of 308 Old 06-19-2014, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok i am a bit peeved. I get a infraction today for marketing from avs for posting a picture of a sub I built for someone. Picture was to show a driver a dude liked. No reference to here, or mentioning that I could build for him. Like many here I spend a lot of time helping others. When I finish a project I like to post pictures. Its a lot of hard work. The infraction says lots of people complaining about marketing.

Was i marketing when I created my video series, sketchup drawings with measurements, Rew for inuke, and now the microcube. If I was marketing why would I post videos of exactly how to do it. Virtually every day there is a post in the diysoundgroup threads pointing to the website for a new product or info on existing products. Questions answered about products that are going to be purchased. Information about upcoming products.

Maybe i should take down all my tutorials, stop encouraging people to do it themselves and really market the (*&)()*$ out of my flatpacks here, craigslist, etc. ...... No I won't do that but man ... I feel better now
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post #89 of 308 Old 06-19-2014, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm curious into what this is. Is someone pre building the enclosure? And then you just have to buy the driver and amp?

Anyone from ohio?
Yes, I cutout flatpacks for subs and ship them too the customer to put together. Sold 27 so far.
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post #90 of 308 Old 06-19-2014, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Ok i am a bit peeved. I get a infraction today for marketing from avs for posting a picture of a sub I built for someone. Picture was to show a driver a dude liked. No reference to here, or mentioning that I could build for him. Like many here I spend a lot of time helping others. When I finish a project I like to post pictures. Its a lot of hard work. The infraction says lots of people complaining about marketing.

Was i marketing when I created my video series, sketchup drawings with measurements, Rew for inuke, and now the microcube. If I was marketing why would I post videos of exactly how to do it. Virtually every day there is a post in the diysoundgroup threads pointing to the website for a new product or info on existing products. Questions answered about products that are going to be purchased. Information about upcoming products.

Maybe i should take down all my tutorials, stop encouraging people to do it themselves and really market the (*&)()*$ out of my flatpacks here, craigslist, etc. ...... No I won't do that but man ... I feel better now
Really? That's weak sauce big time
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