|I would respectfullly disagree with Gregg on his recommendations for the maximum size screen with the VPL-VW10HT or 11HT.
Actually you're only respectfully disagreeing with people who I've talked with at HT shops, and not me personally. I subscribe to the "bigger!, better!, faster!, more!" philosophy of life. :)
Against all of the advice I was given, I was originally targeting doing a 120" screen myself. But once the final dimensions of my room started to solidify, I had to drop down to a 110". I agree to an extent with what you said about small screens. If 100" is the biggest you can fit in the room, then I don't think that it looks that small. On the other hand, I always chuckle at these grand home theaters you see that are many seats wide and several rows back all looking at this tiny 106" screen.
I am however very interested in some more feedback on your GrayHawk at 123". I sent you a PM a week ago asking you about it, but you must not have PM notification turned on because it hasn't been read.
My theater room construction wont be complete until March so I am holding off on ordering my screen until that point. I was waiting to hear more about the FireHawk, but I don't think that it will work in my situation. I am not doing the traditional rows of seating but more of a U shaped pit. Once construction is done I'll know my final angles, but I think the guest with the worst seat in the house is going to be almost 60 degrees off center. That brings my decision back to either the GrayHawk or the StudioTek 130. (The PM I sent you was about viewing angles and the GrayHawk.)
Anyway, back to your 123" GrayHawk. Based on my calculations, without the CC filter your screen should have a brightness of 13 foot-lamberts (f-l) with Cinema Black (CB) on and 16 f-l with CB off. 13 is about the brightness found in an average movie theater and 16 is an acceptable brightness level for home theater according to SMPTE.
But, when you add the CC filter, I calculate that your brightness drops to 11/13 f-l for CBon/CBoff. According to SMPTE, 10 f-l is rock bottom level of passable brightness.
Do you feel that your screen is bright enough? I wonder if your all flat black interior scheme skews perception making the screen in fact seem brighter. Based on the brightness levels I expect that you are getting, it would be fine for movies, but is it bright enough for TV too? Do you feel that your screen would still have the same punch and level of brightness is your walls were say, tan? What happens to the picture if someone turns a light on (not overheads, but say a table lamp)?
As of this moment, I am leaning toward the StudioTek. Based on my calculations, I figured that I would get 13/17 f-l CBon/CBoff with a CC filter using the 110" GrayHawk. But my wife has said that I cannot do a "black hole" interior scheme. So my walls will probably be...tan? Though I have total light control, I feared that the level of brightness I would achieve with the GrayHawk may not be bright enough. If I go with the StudioTek and a CC filter, I expect to see brightness levels at 20/25 fl CBon/CBoff. That would put me at a nice midpoint, almost twice as bright as a movie theater but half as bright as a television.
And finally, running the projector at 123" do you notice the screen door? Do you feel that the GrayHawk does anything to minimize the visibility of the screen door?
Thanks in advance for any additional comments you can offer about your setup.