Need screen advice - details on room/budget inside. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 07-08-2012, 04:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Room is rectangular - 13.5 feet wide and 23 feet deep. The first 'challenge' with the room is that the back 7 feet of the left hand (facing where the screen will go) wall is open to the rest of the house. The stairs and balcony are here, so there is no practical way to close it off and control the light during the day. Walls are are dark(ish) cream color, ceiling is white, and for now I don't think that will be changed. The second challenge is that where the screen will go is a large window facing west. This (along with 95+% of the whole front wall) is currently covered with black colored black out curtains that block all but very incidental light around the edges as-is. Bottom line is that during the day there will be incidental light coming in from the back of the room that I will have no control over. Main challenge with the window is that I will need to hang the screen from the ceiling.

Screen will be used for viewing TV/Movies, and for gaming (XBox/PS3).

Thinking about a 105-110" screen, as this will give my current speakers the room they need to perform optimally. A screen that pulls down (either manual or motorized) would be best so that it could be raised out of the way for access to the window for cleaning/etc.

The final challenge is that the budget realistically needs to stay below $1500 (including taxes if any).

Looking for advice on what screens would be the best fit for my situation.
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post #2 of 13 Old 07-09-2012, 12:37 PM
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If you can accommodate a High Power screen setup, Then I would take a hard look at the Da-Lite manual B or C High Power High Contrast screen. if you have questions on what is involved for a high power setup, shoot us an email.

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post #3 of 13 Old 07-09-2012, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. Guess I should have added that the projector will need to be ceiling mounted. Where the projector will need to be mounted is towards the back of the room in a semi-high traffic area and the main seating right now consists of a full size couch. Additional seating would be from either extra chairs or bar stools behind the couch, or worse sitting on the floor in front of the couch (which some people insist on doing even though it pretty much takes you out of any reasonable viewing angle or audio path). From what I can see those screens are designed for table top or 'audience level' mounting and not ceiling mount.

Primary display in the room currently is a 65" CRT RPTV that is starting to need some major work done to get it back to 'normal' (and I would rater sink the money in to a bigger modern display). Really want to try to make a front projection system work in this less than ideal environment, and don't have the budget to change anything about the current room layout or furnishings. The TV just started an unexpected fast downhill slide, so I am kind of caught unprepared.

Current plan is for primary seating to be about 10-12 feet back from the screen. Projector will need to be mounted more like 15-20 feet back back from the screen due to location of AC vents and an attic access door.
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post #4 of 13 Old 07-09-2012, 03:46 PM
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$1,500 is for screen and projector?

Mike Garrett, AV Science Sales Call Me: 585-671-2968
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post #5 of 13 Old 07-09-2012, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

$1,500 is for screen and projector?

$1500 is my current budget for screen alone. I could probably go a little higher if absolutely required to fit the less than ideal room environment - but from what basic research I have done the $1500 mark seems 'realistic' (but I could be deluding myself). If I am off the mark and really need to go higher than $1500, I would be open to a budget (but usable, or even DIY) solution for now and the final screen later when budget allows. What I am trying to avoid is spending $1500 now only to need to spend a lot more later, since I don't expect to be able to recoup any money spent on the screen.

Current thinking is $12-1500 for the projector and around $1500 for the screen. I figure another $500 in misc stuff (cables, hardware, beer for friends to help with labor) to round things out. Trying to get it in for $3500 or less for now.
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post #6 of 13 Old 07-10-2012, 05:32 AM
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Could you install a curtain in the back of your room to control the light? If you can't control the light and if you can't afford a quality ambient light rejection screen like the Black Diamond, perhaps front projection isn't the best choice for you right now. Mitsubishi has rear projection TVs sized up to 92". Their 82" models are reasonably priced and could give you a far better image than front projection can in a bright room.
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-10-2012, 07:24 AM
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Good points. You could also look at the used market to see if a Black Diamond, Supernova, or Firehawk can be had at that $1,500 target. But even those screens will be less effective if the ambient light is coming from the same direction as the projected image.
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post #8 of 13 Old 07-10-2012, 11:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. So it sounds like the correct answer is 'I am delusional'. What should I be expecting to minimally pay for a 100-110" screen for this setup? Is $2500 a more realistic target or am I looking at 3k plus just for the screen?

I've looked at the direct display options, and the Mitsubishi RPTVs are going to cost me 3500-4000 from an authorized dealer and I will still be dealing with over-scan as bad or worse then my current dialed in set has. Even with 5% overscan all around some games have important elements going outside the boundaries.

Originally I was planning on around a ~5k total budget, but the timing on the old set going out is just not cooperating with that. Worst case if I just can't manage the right screen now what about the option of going super budget with something like a Monoprice screen (or even DIY), knowing that the image will be poor during the day but OK at night when most of the Movie watching would occur anyway. Then plan on doing a 'proper' screen as soon as possible down the road?

I have repeatedly tried to figure out how to make curtains work (and pass the wife test) for that corner of the room - but the fact that it is where the stairs terminate and access between the two floors happens I just keep coming short. The only workable placement I can see would directly interfere with the left rear surround speaker.
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post #9 of 13 Old 07-10-2012, 02:26 PM
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Give Mike Garrett at AVS a call. He can give you good advice and set budget expectations for you. I'm glad I did.

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post #10 of 13 Old 07-10-2012, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BartMan01 View Post

I've looked at the direct display options, and the Mitsubishi RPTVs are going to cost me 3500-4000 from an authorized dealer...

Mitsubishi WD-82838 -
http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-Diamond-WD-82838-82-Inch-HDTV/dp/B003I4YMOK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1341962979&sr=1-2&keywords=Mitsubishi+WD-82

Quote:
Originally Posted by BartMan01 View Post

I will still be dealing with over-scan as bad or worse then my current dialed in set has. Even with 5% overscan all around some games have important elements going outside the boundaries.

The factory default overscan can be reduced or eliminated by a competent calibrator. Just tell your calibrator how much overscan you want and he should be able to fix you up.
.
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post #11 of 13 Old 07-10-2012, 05:38 PM
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Another way to approach the problem is on the projector side. If you can find a light cannon that can overpower the ambient light, you can get a watchable image if you don't fret too much about washed-out blacks during daytime viewing. ProjectorReviews has a search function that will allow you to specify the minimum number of lumens for a pj. Try 4000 minimum. Note that ProjectorReviews doesn't list all the current offerings but it can give you some ideas on where to start looking:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/projector-search.php

On the screen side, Elite Screens offerings are reasonably priced. They have a CineGrey fabric that can tone down some of the ambient light.

I second the motion to contact Mike Garrett. I'm sure he'd be able to hook you up with a good screen at a good price.
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post #12 of 13 Old 07-10-2012, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post

The factory default overscan can be reduced or eliminated by a competent calibrator. Just tell your calibrator how much overscan you want and he should be able to fix you up.
.

Everything I've read on these Mits DLP rptvs indicates that overscan can't really be adjusted without compromising or losing true 1:1 pixel mapping. Even then it requires messing with overall geometry to do. Don't care for video content since I can dial it out with my HTPC settings. Becomes a problem with Xbox or ps3 stil.

That being said I see that Paul's is an authorized vendor and the 92" sets from 2011 are massively discounted now. At that price it becomes a tempting solution.

Edit: I've seen multiple comments now from people stating/confirming that it is not possible to eliminate overscan on the Mitsubishi DLP rptv (or even dial it back).
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post #13 of 13 Old 07-10-2012, 06:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will Binegar View Post

Give Mike Garrett at AVS a call. He can give you good advice and set budget expectations for you. I'm glad I did.
Mike Garrett
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Thanks. Will give him a call before I decide anything
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