Who Has Done a Full Screen Wash on a Hi Power 2.8? / Methodology / Happy with Results? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 45 Old 01-06-2013, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
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The 2.8's surface itself seems fairly robust and smooth enough to take soft cloth, mild soap and water. Problem is, and I now have about 4 small ones after 4 years, when you do that the touched up area now looks a bit brighter than the untouched area all around it, with probably some degree of airborne residue residing after a number of years. Tiny specs from insects' waste and trying to swipe the occasional cricket off the screen and having the wrong angle with the towell swipe and smushing a bit. They clean up but on a bright white background if you know where they are.......they start to bug the crap out of you. Plus, when the spot is wet and drying it really scares the bleep out of you that it is going to wind up looking like that.

I have read it is possible to use a lot of water and I guess quickly as possible, but consistently, you start somewhere and just go for it. Across the top? Back and forth moving downward? What material & soap did you use? How often do you rinse it and how wet? "Light" amount of the soap mixed in the water? If you've been even with this..... I (think) I have read it dries and looks like new. But how very scary to make the decision to try it. Especially since 2.8 is no longer available.

Any success stories out there? Anyone repeat it more than once..... and your "system" is outstanding, even if you do say so yourself? smile.gifbiggrin.gif
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post #2 of 45 Old 01-06-2013, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post

The 2.8's surface itself seems fairly robust and smooth enough to take soft cloth, mild soap and water. Problem is, and I now have about 4 small ones after 4 years, when you do that the touched up area now looks a bit brighter than the untouched area all around it, with probably some degree of airborne residue residing after a number of years. Tiny specs from insects' waste and trying to swipe the occasional cricket off the screen and having the wrong angle with the towell swipe and smushing a bit. They clean up but on a bright white background if you know where they are.......they start to bug the crap out of you. Plus, when the spot is wet and drying it really scares the bleep out of you that it is going to wind up looking like that.
I have read it is possible to use a lot of water and I guess quickly as possible, but consistently, you start somewhere and just go for it. Across the top? Back and forth moving downward? What material & soap did you use? How often do you rinse it and how wet? "Light" amount of the soap mixed in the water? If you've been even with this..... I (think) I have read it dries and looks like new. But how very scary to make the decision to try it. Especially since 2.8 is no longer available.
Any success stories out there? Anyone repeat it more than once..... and your "system" is outstanding, even if you do say so yourself? smile.gifbiggrin.gif

I clean my screen when it needs it, as you say, when you clean a bug so other smudge and you now see the clean spot. it is time to clean it all.
I don't use water as it takes to long to dry and leaves streaks. You must remember the HP screen is covered in tiny beads (see left photo for 2.8 HP) so anything that leaves a haze on glass( water spots etc) will make the screen look bad.
The best thing to use is Denatured Alcohol (google it to find out what it is called in your part of the world)
This stuff is highly flammable, No smoking or open flames, windows open and or fan on.
Use clean microfiber rags.. any color should be fine the rags do not bleed.
Turn on projector and display a white screen, AVS 709 calibrations disk has 100% full field pattern if your projector does not have an all white screen in menu. This helps you see what you have and have not done as you work.
Wet a rag with the alcohol and work from top down in a small area at a time. You can use a hair dryer on cold or another rag to help dry the area to see how it will look (only takes a few seconds to dry unlike water). Work in small over lapping areas.
I have done this 2 times over the complete screen since 2010 with no issue.
Be careful, do not rub to hard and don't burn the house down!
Old HP 2.8 VVVVVVVVV Current HP 2.4 VVVVVVVVV
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post #3 of 45 Old 01-06-2013, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply Doug! My screen is 8.5' wide 16x9.

How wide of an area (feet or inches) starting at the top do you consider "a small area"? Do you take that width all the way down to the bottom and then go back to top, move over same width and go down all the way again, overlapping a small bit?

What is the motion....side to side and then down a bit at a time? Circular or egg shape rubbing for each column?

I imagine the rags start picking up dirty color. How wet do you have to keep them, and do you have to keep only a "clean" portion on the screen? Use a lot of rags?

All these vertical columns with the wiping pattern you suggest, when the denatured alcohol dries it will wind up looking smooth, no wipe marks? Or do you need to give a final dry wipe or just damp wipe to the whole thing?

If you see some left over marks can you just go back in that area with new clean surface micro fibre and more liquid?

I have a one door theater with it being 20 feet away from the screen, and in addition to mini split air system, have a pretty strong exhaust fan in open beam ceiling not too far from the screen. If I turn that fan on high and open the door to let outside air come in to replace what goes up.....how nasty are these fumes? Is there a certain level rubber / canister mask needed, or just a good fitting cotton mask with maybe one of those charcoal heads on it.

Sorry for all the questions but I would hate myself forever if I wind up making it look worse instead of all smooth and clean. And I don't want to die in the process...... biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif


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post #4 of 45 Old 01-06-2013, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post

Thanks for the quick reply Doug! My screen is 8.5' wide 16x9.
How wide of an area (feet or inches) starting at the top do you consider "a small area"? Do you take that width all the way down to the bottom and then go back to top, move over same width and go down all the way again, overlapping a small bit?
What is the motion....side to side and then down a bit at a time? Circular or egg shape rubbing for each column?
I imagine the rags start picking up dirty color. How wet do you have to keep them, and do you have to keep only a "clean" portion on the screen? Use a lot of rags?
All these vertical columns with the wiping pattern you suggest, when the denatured alcohol dries it will wind up looking smooth, no wipe marks? Or do you need to give a final dry wipe or just damp wipe to the whole thing?
If you see some left over marks can you just go back in that area with new clean surface micro fibre and more liquid?
I have a one door theater with it being 20 feet away from the screen, and in addition to mini split air system, have a pretty strong exhaust fan in open beam ceiling not too far from the screen. If I turn that fan on high and open the door to let outside air come in to replace what goes up.....how nasty are these fumes? Is there a certain level rubber / canister mask needed, or just a good fitting cotton mask with maybe one of those charcoal heads on it.
Sorry for all the questions but I would hate myself forever if I wind up making it look worse instead of all smooth and clean. And I don't want to die in the process...... biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
Ron

I like working left to right about 1 sqft at a time.. you will figure out what works. You are using a solvent that evaporates very fast so you don't want to soak the complete rag, just a 3x3" spot. No the rage does not get all dirty, the screen is not a car roof that has been out in the rain and dirt..
You will figure it out as you go.
If the surface is clean it will not be streaked
Yes you can go over areas you miss.
The fumes are not real bad, but this is used as fuel for old time alcohol torches and camping stoves so it is very flammable.
Yes, if you have an exhaust fan and open the door should be ok. as long as that fan is sending the fumes outside the house..
Just start out slow, do a small area and see how it goes, leave the room often as you will get used to the smell, and not know how strong it is.
Yes a paint respirator would be good to where if you have one.. dust mask won't help ..
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post #5 of 45 Old 01-07-2013, 01:38 PM
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Denatured alcohol is just ethanol with some bad stuff mixed into it so you don't drink it to get drunk. So think of it has ~200 proof vodka :-P

airscapes, thanks for all the input. It's really hard to clean this stuff (HCHP for me). There's so much residue (my screen is new) that dirt/residue just gets smudged around. Areas are getting brighter, yes, but there's so much residue that I think it'll take a number of full cleans to get it completely clean. Why does Da-Lite ship dirty screens?

There's a lot of dust too (new screen!?!), and I worry about rubbing the dust around. Can't it scratch the beads? Does it matter? I especially worry about rubbing around a dry area of the microfiber cloth + dust... that could scratch the screen (and ethanol really does evaporate fast!).

Wondering if I should've got a pulldown screen to keep it cleaner over the years. Then again-- last screen I had was a pulldown GrayWolf, and I never cleaned it in 6 years. Still looked better than the Da-Lite HCHP in terms of fixed pattern noise (but had pretty bad texture as is common for glass-beaded screens).
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post #6 of 45 Old 01-07-2013, 01:46 PM
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Personally, I would send it back..
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post #7 of 45 Old 01-07-2013, 05:35 PM
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airscapes:

I checked out your website - some nice work !
I got a chuckle out of your George Peppard as I recently downloaded all of Banacek.
I watch it when I'm travelling on a plane, and wonder what the people beside me think watching such 70s cheese !

- Andy
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post #8 of 45 Old 01-07-2013, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Lammer View Post

airscapes:
I checked out your website - some nice work !
I got a chuckle out of your George Peppard as I recently downloaded all of Banacek.
I watch it when I'm travelling on a plane, and wonder what the people beside me think watching such 70s cheese !
- Andy

That is to funny, the wife just found yet another new network that plays 70s shows.. tonight we watch... Banacek! She loves George, Sam Eliot, Tom Seleck and Don Johnson.. So you know the shows we have on DVD ... Good thing my screen is 4:3 when opened up!
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post #9 of 45 Old 01-08-2013, 12:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

Denatured alcohol is just ethanol with some bad stuff mixed into it so you don't drink it to get drunk. So think of it has ~200 proof vodka :-P
airscapes, thanks for all the input. It's really hard to clean this stuff (HCHP for me). There's so much residue (my screen is new) that dirt/residue just gets smudged around. Areas are getting brighter, yes, but there's so much residue that I think it'll take a number of full cleans to get it completely clean. Why does Da-Lite ship dirty screens?
There's a lot of dust too (new screen!?!), and I worry about rubbing the dust around. Can't it scratch the beads? Does it matter? I especially worry about rubbing around a dry area of the microfiber cloth + dust... that could scratch the screen (and ethanol really does evaporate fast!).
Wondering if I should've got a pulldown screen to keep it cleaner over the years. Then again-- last screen I had was a pulldown GrayWolf, and I never cleaned it in 6 years. Still looked better than the Da-Lite HCHP in terms of fixed pattern noise (but had pretty bad texture as is common for glass-beaded screens).

I periodically out of habit just dust mine top to bottom with a really soft feather type duster that's not feathers. More like soft animal hair. The surface looks clean except for the spots that look more clean. If / when I do this I would certainly dust everything loose off it first.
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post #10 of 45 Old 01-08-2013, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by RonF View Post

I periodically out of habit just dust mine top to bottom with a really soft feather type duster that's not feathers. More like soft animal hair. The surface looks clean except for the spots that look more clean. If / when I do this I would certainly dust everything loose off it first.

Ah. Thank you. Good point. Use a Swiffer Duster first.

The rest is pretty stubborn residue that has to be cleaned by really rubbing with the microfiber cloth + ethanol. Just seems ridiculous for an end-user to do. And on top of it all, still doesn't solve the streaking.

I really can't recommend the Da-Lite High Contrast High Power screen to anyone, based on my experience.
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post #11 of 45 Old 01-08-2013, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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It sounds like a higher maintenance surface or not as smooth?? And more randomly sized beads from some photographs over in the projector forum, looking at them, then the 2.8 Hi Power. Which is moot since the 2.8 is no longer offered. Don't know how closeups of the beads look on he 2.4 version or its surface compared to the HPHC?

"Swiffer Duster" I did a search, can't tell how "soft" the thing is over and above attracting and holding dust particles.
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post #12 of 45 Old 01-08-2013, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RonF View Post

. Don't know how closeups of the beads look on he 2.4 version or its surface compared to the HPHC?
Scroll up.. photo on left labeled Sample is 2.8, right side labeled my screen 2.4
HCHP looks the same only with a gray underlayment rather than white.
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post #13 of 45 Old 01-08-2013, 02:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Ahhh.... the old 2.8 beads are bigger and "beastier" plus more uniform it looks like. You have no idea how hard it was to get the quoted word past the bleeping persistent spell check. Damn!! biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
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post #14 of 45 Old 01-10-2013, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

I like working left to right about 1 sqft at a time.. you will figure out what works. You are using a solvent that evaporates very fast so you don't want to soak the complete rag, just a 3x3" spot. No the rage does not get all dirty, the screen is not a car roof that has been out in the rain and dirt..
You will figure it out as you go.
If the surface is clean it will not be streaked
Yes you can go over areas you miss.
The fumes are not real bad, but this is used as fuel for old time alcohol torches and camping stoves so it is very flammable.
Yes, if you have an exhaust fan and open the door should be ok. as long as that fan is sending the fumes outside the house..
Just start out slow, do a small area and see how it goes, leave the room often as you will get used to the smell, and not know how strong it is.
Yes a paint respirator would be good to where if you have one.. dust mask won't help ..

OK. Color me officially semi worried here. I did everything as per above. Even washed first the miro fibre rags to make sure they were soft as can be, because they kind of have that feel they catch on any irregularity. I generously kept about that 3"x3" portion of the rag wet enough to slide nicely over each new section as I went and tried to feather the edges. You said it would become evident and that seemed to be working. Bought the paint grade mask at Lowes for $30. Dusted well before hand.

My finished screen shows a lot of the edges lightly of the worked sections. I tried going back over the top portion again and it looks a little better than the bottom only once. Maybe because of the film removed, with the edges and slight off color. Unless the micro fibre is kept real damp or wet it does slide all that smoothly. How durable is that surface to how many times with the denatured alcohol do you think.

What is the method you use to get rid of all the faint marks. Yeah it's brighter now but the uniformity on bright white does not look good. HELP..... they don't sell these 2.8s any more of course. eek.gifeek.gif
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post #15 of 45 Old 01-10-2013, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RonF View Post

OK. Color me officially semi worried here. I did everything as per above. Even washed first the miro fibre rags to make sure they were soft as can be, because they kind of have that feel they catch on any irregularity. I generously kept about that 3"x3" portion of the rag wet enough to slide nicely over each new section as I went and tried to feather the edges. You said it would become evident and that seemed to be working. Bought the paint grade mask at Lowes for $30. Dusted well before hand.

My finished screen shows a lot of the edges lightly of the worked sections. I tried going back over the top portion again and it looks a little better than the bottom only once. Maybe because of the film removed, with the edges and slight off color. Unless the micro fibre is kept real damp or wet it does slide all that smoothly. How durable is that surface to how many times with the denatured alcohol do you think.

What is the method you use to get rid of all the faint marks. Yeah it's brighter now but the uniformity on bright white does not look good. HELP..... they don't sell these 2.8s any more of course. eek.gifeek.gif

So you have the 2.8 or 2.4? 2.8 is smooth as butter 2.4 is a little rougher.
I don't think the solvent is the issue, it would be the rubbing and or pushing on the screen that could cause a problem with the coating.
How long did you let the screen dry and did you have the projector on while you were working?
Like I said, I have done mine 2 times and it is due again. Yes you must keep that rag wet and over lap completely. My guess would be you were working to big an area at once, it would take a long time on a big screen. Yours may be dirtier than mine was and requires you change the rag more often.. or use the wet one and then a clean dry one..

Your descriptions of off color sounds like the screen is not dry or something.. You sure it is pure denatured alcohol?

Here is a picture of the 2.4 and 2.8 fabrics
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post #16 of 45 Old 01-10-2013, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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It's the 2.8. Yes on the denatured alcohol. Well as mentioned the top section, the half I went over a 2nd time looks a little better than the bottom with only one pass on the sections. I don't suppose any of the marks / streaks left by the alcohol can be evened out with the light soapy water mixture? Probably need to keep going over with clean, wet alcohol rags?

But you never had this problem and having to go back with a 2nd or more passes after the first pass, first time you did it? Seems to me part of the problem was so many small areas (the 1x1 footers).

And yes it's smooth as butter as long as the micro fibre rag is nice and wet. It seems the 2nd pass where I tried and it was already cleaned once is leaving less of the marks but still not all gone after 2 passes. Not a huge screen at all. 8.5' wide 16x9.
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post #17 of 45 Old 01-10-2013, 08:47 PM
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Yes, first time I probably did have to go over 2 times, I don't remember for sure but do know I worked each area till it was white as rice before moving on. Mine was only a year and a half old when I did it.. probably less build up. As long as you are careful with the rubbing I don't think you are going to harm anything doing it a few times.
Yes, you can use water but it may take days (as in 3 ) to dry completely. This is why I used the alcohol as water made me nuts for days waiting for it to dry and look better.
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post #18 of 45 Old 01-10-2013, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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OK thanks I will be having another go of it tomorrow. Have to pick up another can of the moonshine as well.
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post #19 of 45 Old 01-11-2013, 04:19 AM
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Just take your time and let the chemicals do the work.. if you find yourself scrubbing hard, stop!
Had a thought, is the screen surface sticky at all? Don't forget to have the projector on with all white screen while working so you can see your progress and don't forget to turn on the ventilation!
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post #20 of 45 Old 01-11-2013, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Mornin' Doug. Yes I have been careful not to rub hard and hasn't seem to be needed anyway. When sufficiently wet the micro fibre material glides well and the newly wetted sections of screen look totally clean. Most definitely with the projector on full white screen. Only way possible. No not sticky at all. I think the problem has to do with the very slight less than pure white color of the light film accumulated on it over the past 4+ years. Especially on the first pass, and shows up in the edges a bit of the worked areas as the swipes dry. I will start this time on the lower portion for a second pass, and then maybe the whole screen gets a 3rd pass quickly moving with the wet rag across broader areas. Wish me luck.

Yep ventilation has been fine between fan at open door blowing upward across the room toward the exhaust fan in peaked open beam ceiling about 10 feet over from the screen horizontally. I'm using one of these masks and can't smell a thing. http://www.lowes.com/pd_146659-98-R-7512ES_0__?Ntt=painting+respirater+mask&UserSearch=painting+respirater+mask&productId=3013769&rpp=32 And luckily with the quick evaporation when done the smell doesn't linger if materials all taken outside.
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post #21 of 45 Old 01-11-2013, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Update. I've gone from severe depression about this after another pass over most of the screen, thinking that I had let the visible but "minor" annoyance of the 3 relatively small bright spots where I'd cleaned in the past...... put me in motion with actions to where I just screwed the pooch with my custom made and ordered, fitted and irreplaceable 2.8 screen. Really pretty sick about it. Then one more experiment and this is giving me hope as it is getting better.

After the very careful, smooth, wet passes this time, really trying to feather any edges so no marks from any thickness of the alcohol rapidly drying at the edges of the wet swipes.....I had improved the bottom some but still have these marks. By now obviously the surface seemes totally clean up close.

Think of a very faint pattern, horizontally (direction of all the swipes except vertical left and right edges) on the white screen kind of like the patterns you see with many colors on Jupiter. eek.gifeek.gifeek.gifbiggrin.gif "Very faint" but "very visible" in white, yellow, green, cyan somewhat and even red somewhat with the JVC test menu.

Then I'm up close and looking at some of those horizontal marks and imagining they are not from the edges of the swipes or still remaining coloration from surface film any more (looks really clean up close, can only see them easily from a bit of distance back) ....... but actually the minuscule, tiny differences in the clear coat's surface. NOT GOOD if true. From the careful wipes and flicking at the occasional bug over the years. And this new bright surface cleaning is now bringing all that out. In other words I'm BLEEPED. Any time there's a bright large area of screen during programming ......faint Jupiter pattern visible.

I thought I would try one more experiment to see if I could now possibly "alter" any of them by going over again, lightly, quickly, wetly and with same feathering directly on some of these specific patterns.

I could change them! OK, so with remaining liquid (actually still the quart can) ....... I did some more large areas bottom half of screen again as the top still seemed a little more uniform. Very light sweeping, wet rag so no friction, long swipes, again feathering.

The patterns Change. And overall they are getting lighter and more uniform looking. Still not acceptable, but now with the other light colors besides full screen white, it's getting harder to see the patterns. Red, hardly at all. So that's a very good sign it seems to me. The fact I can change the patterns and they seem to be getting more faint seems to indicate the clear coat is still in OK shape.

I bought the version of denatured alcohol below at Lowes on the right side if this link works. (Didn't even realize there were 2 or more versions) Do you think maybe that is the problem when you compare their properties? What brand do you use, Doug?

http://www.lowes.com/LowesProductComparisionCmd?catalogId=10051&langId=-1&storeId=10151&cm_sp=LowesProductComparisonCmd&NeParam=4294937087&NParam=4294857980&NttParam=&pcompitems=3063669,3078771&returnShoppingUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2FSearch%3Ddenatured%2Balcohol%3FstoreId%3D10151%26langId%3D-1%26catalogId%3D10051%26N%3D0%26newSearch%3Dtrue%26Ntt%3Ddenatured%2Balcohol


Now I'm seeing what I bought does better with shellac, rather than oil based product like the one on the left. But it is also supposed to do well on glass for no streaks. But you dilute it with water according to directions. Is this the Eureka moment?
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post #22 of 45 Old 01-11-2013, 03:57 PM
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I think that product is the problem.. I uses the Sunnyside brand and it is NOT green in any way. Just for fun, wet a clean rage and go over an area, it is going to take a little while to dry, don't make the rag dripping, then dry it with a hair dryer on cold. See if you funky colors go away.. it may stay darker for a day or 2 till all the water between the beads drys. Sounds like something left behind to me.. .

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZZ36K/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002NVTIAC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19W8DS6CV084KSD95931

I stay away form anything that is good for the environment, never works like the bad stuff smile.gif
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post #23 of 45 Old 01-11-2013, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif That's what I get for tree hugging, unknowingly anyway. Well GOOD I hope you are right and also same thing I am suspecting / praying is correct. And good news, I had to get out and get a bite to eat up the street with a really nice Club sandwich (add avocado) and a couple of Sierra Nevadas to put the angst in perspective with the promising results of my last passes. Right up the street from there is a little neighborhood True Value hardware store. I went in there before coming home to see what brand of denatured alcohol they carried and bought a can. It is the same Sunnyside quart can that I just got home and find you posting here on AVS.

OK!! I think I have time to try out a quick section, and still get it dry in time to be able to watch my Lakers get waxed by OKC in 2 hours. Without having to wear the freaking mask while doing it. Should be able to get the last of the fumes out by then.

Thanks, Doug
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post #24 of 45 Old 01-11-2013, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh hell yeah!!! That is a lot better. I quickly wound up doing the whole screen again. It even seemed to slide better. Maybe I was keeping the rag wetter though, or maybe it wasn't evaporating quite as fast. But now after drying with the fan the marks are getting close to being "gone". It's almost to the point where I would not notice. Really hard to see on any color but white. One more pass tomorrow and I should be stylin'. All nice and bright, bright white again..... no little circles. And going forward now I know the proper drill. Sunnyside is the brand to get if any questions or anyone not sure.

Doug.....you da MAN!! Thanks for walking me through this scary procedure. Much appreciated!
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post #25 of 45 Old 01-11-2013, 09:19 PM
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I may be doing it myself.. going to take an hour drive on Sunday to look at a 110" Screen that is supposed to be a 6 year old HP Model C for $350!
If it is HP and it is not damage I will have a new HP 2.8 that is way to big for my house.. but hey, the house will be replaced at some point and I can make a 105+" fixed frame screen out of it..
Glad it is working out.. I was feeling kind of sick thinking I had you screw up your screen..
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post #26 of 45 Old 01-12-2013, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I tried another pass today but even still it is kind of difficult to get rid of every last trace. I kind of just changed the faint patterns around a bit and then had to touch up new areas. They are pretty light but I feel like I'm going to need to keep playing with it to make a little better. No longer panicked as I originally was, could live with it now if I had to.

Just making others aware that at least for me this has been no slam dunk with an easy process.

I wonder how the surface is on a material like the 1.0 gain flat Stewart SnoMatte (sp?) that some people are calling perfect (with bat cave and enough lumens) for this sort of a thing? Is there a clear coat for protection on that which allows the "perfect" surface, and for it also to be cleaned with some form of liquid??
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post #27 of 45 Old 01-12-2013, 08:03 PM
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No idea about Stewart
Man, I had no idea they had muck up Denatured alcohol or I would have stated the brand up front. Hope you are able to get it colorless.
Tomorrow I will be looking at a 6 year old (suposid) 110" HP, hope it isn't damaged. It is in a box so examining it should be very challenging. Next I will need a new to me used DLP with lens shift, if I want to use the complete screen.. and get rid of the old CRT TV and the cabinet with the components...
Ug, guess I had better just put it away for some day if it is good to go.... in Wonder if a Marantz 12s4 would look OK at 110 or if I need 1080p
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post #28 of 45 Old 01-13-2013, 02:43 PM
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Hey Ron! I spent the afternoon cleaning a 110" HP 2.8 Model C! Turned out great after 2 passes.
First time I use the rag real wet working in long areas left to right and let it dry for about 20 minutes. I had some dark lines at the edges of where I wiped.
Next I turned on a fan to blow gently on the screen to help it dry.
I started at the top and with a wet rag (alcohol) I would rewet just the can opening worth of the rag, you know, put the rag on the hole and turn the can up on end and back. Then wipe a 12" or so circle starting in the center working out. Then take the dry cloth and dry it like I was removing wax from a car. starting at the outside of the circle working in. Then move when all traces of lines were gone making sure I over lapped. In the end I had No line perfectly uniform screen. If a line remained I would rub it with the wet rag without rewetting the rag, kind of dry wipe, then dry with the dry cloth. Took about 3 hours but looks great. I only used about a pint of alcohol total but the screen was not that dirty.
The screen has one tiny mark where the beads have been knocked off on the left lower corner about 12 inches in from the corner. I had my machinist microscope with me to inspect any marks and was able to show the guy the damage. Won't be an issue in my current house but will be visible if used as 110" in my next. So with that defect, I was able to negotiate the a price of $300 form 350. Been waiting for 2 years for one of these 2.8 to hit my local craigs list and finally it has happens. BTW no waves.

Ron, let your screen sit for a week and if it is sill not perfect give it another run with New rages right out of the pack, don't wash them. I was using the blue and white microfibers that can be purchased at BJ's club and probably any automotive store in the carwash detail section.
Will post a pic once I get it in it's final temporary mounting location.. Going to make sure we want this monster in the living room before I start drilling holes..
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post #29 of 45 Old 01-13-2013, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Interesting, Doug. I came back in before reading your post to say that after a day and a half the faint but noticeable marks have gotten more faint and the uniformity has improved. Not sure why that is considering how fast the alcohol evaporates. Why do you think that would be.....after being apparently completely dry, it keeps getting more uniform a day later?? It's looking pretty good to me now. Certainly better than having the 3 small bright circles showing where it had been cleaned by water and light soap before I started. Water especially seems to leave deposit marks at the edge of the rubbed area when it dries. I tried it again yesterday, first thing, to see if it would help with some of the marks. NOOOO ..... it left worse marks. And like you said considerably longer to dry.

I may just cherry pick some of the remaining marks that I can see from viewing distance only on all white screen and use my method of staying side to side and with wet micro fibre. I don't like how, at least with my rags from Pep Boys, they seem to catch and are not smooth gliding if only damp. Maybe washing changed something but I don't think so. The feel the same to my fingers' touch and that was why I washed them in the first place. Very soft, but still seem to "catch" on any barely rough spots on my hands or on the screen if dry to only damp.

Your circular motion. Glad to hear it is working for you. Interesting in that I have read some directions on line (maybe posted from Mfg. but not sure of that) which said to not use a circular motion. Well sounds like yours came out great though. Good for you that you scored a vintage formula HP in good shape. These things will probably retain their value if in good condition.


How did you set it up with the pull down screen to be able to shine the projector light on it and have a smooth solid surface behind it to push against while using the rags?
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post #30 of 45 Old 01-14-2013, 04:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post


How did you set it up with the pull down screen to be able to shine the projector light on it and have a smooth solid surface behind it to push against while using the rags?

I had put hooks in a 2x3 at the proper location, then used some cheap cargo holders from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html to hold the 2x3 against the ceiling. With help from the wife I hung the screen on the temp support. Then just cleaned it. Didn't push hard enough to require a wall, the bottom bar is heavy and it does not move very easy when you push on it.

Unfortunately, after I finished, I toke it down and moved all the furniture out from the corners on the wall where the screen needs to go, I had put it in the center of the room so I would have more work space.
When tightening up the cargo clamp one of them brook (pivot pin in squeeze grip) so I was forced to abort for the night.. very frustrating.. Once I figure out if this is even going to work, and at what height, I would mount the screen. However I have no ceiling joist going in the correct direction and the wall joists are not standard (partition wall)

Anyhow, on the drying.. I guess the area down between the beads gets wetter than the top when you wipe with a real wet rag. If I use a really wet rage doing the circles, it leaves new lines which I assume with enough patients would go away. When rewet and then dried with the rag and having the fan blowing on the screen, the line would go away.

I will try and wipe my 2.8 sample (just cleaned it yesterday) with a real wet rage and see if I can get the lines to show up, them have a look at the line with the microscope..
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