Recessed or ceiling mount - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-06-2013, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm setting up with a projector in my new house and need to decide if I go recessed or not. Obviously recessed is aesthetically nicer but that comes at a price, I have one concern when it comes to the recessed option and that is the unit I can get is of reasonable quality but if I decide at a later date to upgrade to a better screen being recessed it could be considerably more difficult and expensive to swap than if I just have a ceiling mount.
I'm not to concerned about having a ceiling mount and could always box it when they build the house but just wanted to get an idea of what others have found, is recessed worth the extra dollars or save some money and have the option to upgrade screens when you want?

I haven't included price range or brands as I'm not in the US so availability and pricing isn't really comparable here so just trying to decide on type, I have ordered a W1070 and the numbers point to a 106" screen so any help on the recessed vs ceiling mount would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 14 Old 07-06-2013, 07:21 PM
 
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It really depends on the brand for recessed screens.  Some have a casing and the screen installs in the casing.  If you decided to change screen types it is easy with this type of casing.  If you think you need to you can have the casing oversized if you plan to upgrade to a larger screen.  Not all manufacturers do this type of work.  Otherwise without this feature ceiling screens are easier.

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post #3 of 14 Old 07-06-2013, 09:55 PM - Thread Starter
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The screen I'm looking at is a single unit hence the issue in upgrading, there isn't a separate screen box so if I change it either needs to fit the cut out or be bigger. I could get the builder to box in a recess in the ceiling that I can use a ceiling mount screen inside but not sure its worth the effort and just stick with a ceiling mounted unit and spend my money elsewhere.
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post #4 of 14 Old 07-07-2013, 05:41 AM
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Wall size, screen size (...now and possibly later...) and what can be considered esthetically pleasing to the eye all lend themselves to determining what might work best now, and in the future.

Taking this request as a design issue, more info is needed.

PJ type
Room size / wall dimensions.
Lighting issues?

Why do you want to recess? Looks alone? If so, and future expandability is desired, then using a outwardly tapered design for a recessed area would be better, and obviously you do not want to crowd the edges of the initial screen..




These next two are deeply recessed "Squared" applications with no outward slanted edges. If you do such a opening, the outside edges must be extended out appreciably from the edge of the screen or any room lighting or reflections from the ceiling will cause there to be a shadow edge cast onto the screen.





The one below has a 7.5" angled, Velvet wrapped trim. Sorry I do not have a decent side view available.





Do try to accommodate using a Fixed Screen. Overall, you will be happier with both the performance and esthetics.

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post #5 of 14 Old 07-07-2013, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Not recessed in the wall but recessed into the ceiling, I'd love to go fixed frame but I'm going to have a TV for general use and then a screen for when watching in the evening. Maybe one day I'll build another house with a dedicated room but for now I'll have to stick to a drop down screen.

As far as the other info I've ordered a W1070 and the wall height is @8" and the room is @13" across and not really restricted with width, I have loads of light so will have to have the curtains all pulled to watch it. According to the calculations I've done from the resources online I need a 106" screen for viewing distance and to not be too fit correctly with the wall size I have.

Recessed is good in that its flush mounted so I have more height to play with where as a ceiling mount means I lose a little height, ceiling mount is half the price and if I want to change screens its easy. I guess I'm just trying to decide if I go recessed will I have the need to upgrade or not, chances are I never will as since its not a dedicated cinema a normal screen and W1070 is all I'll need but always good to get some ideas from others who have already done it.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-07-2013, 07:27 AM
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Ok....sorry to muck up your question with all those unwarranted examples.

To recesses the Screen housing to where it's Flush, you need to both allow for the room to mount it, as well as factor in the amount of "Drop" the screen has available, as it will relate directly to the positioning / height of the Projector's Lens.

Your getting a w1070, so at least you'll have some vertical Lens Shift capability, but you only want to use what you absolutely need to. Also, the w1070 has NO Horizontal Lens Shift, so the Lens will have to be virtually perfectly aligned "side -to- side with the Screen center and edges.

Here is a Flush mounted, recessed screen assembly. While it may be in a build-down enclosure, and not in an actual ceiling, it's still the same principle.

Front



Side



Up inside the Custom made Slotted Inclosue




Down through the Slot.



In your situation, unless you have attic access above the Screen assembly, you would have to construct a removable "slotted" panel that is held in place using "Bullet Snaps", and make the enclosure at least 2' wider* than what is needed to accommodate the width of the Screen's casing...which is always at least a solid 12" wider overall that is the actual Screen material that retracts up into it.

* to allow for at least a modest upgrade in screen size and / or type.

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post #7 of 14 Old 07-07-2013, 10:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeh I'm considering the recessing of a normal ceiling mount like that as I have the space in the ceiling as its 8" then boxed up to 9" but aware that it could end up costing more doing that then the recessed screen. If I go ceiling mount then I have some adjustment side to side with the screen mount and a little adjustment in the projector mount which you don't get with a recessed screen as once its in its in, luckily I have a bit of flexibility in the projector position but will be trying to get it as close to perfect without needing to use much adjustment.
Think I'll go see what the ceiling mounts look like at the shop and if they are ok or if they will stand out much.
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-08-2013, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Down through the Slot.



a removable "slotted" panel that is held in place using "Bullet Snaps", .

Do you have a picture of this? What does it look like?

B.
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B View Post

Do you have a picture of this? What does it look like?

B.

I'll amend that description to "Adjustable Ball Catch"



http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2001034/10102/hafele-adjustable-ball-catch.aspx

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post #10 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 07:32 PM
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Is the panel made of wood and painted? plastered and painted? I've been looking at a ceiling trim kit like Da-Lite makes, but the slot opening is too small.

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post #11 of 14 Old 07-11-2013, 08:32 AM
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In your situation, unless you have attic access above the Screen assembly, you would have to construct a removable "slotted" panel that is held in place using "Bullet Snaps", and make the enclosure at least 2' wider* than what is needed to accommodate the width of the Screen's casing...which is always at least a solid 12" wider overall that is the actual Screen material that retracts up into it.

If the customer does not have attic space above him, he can still do a recessed install without messing up the ceiling, if he has a carpeted room above. Simply pull back the carpet, remove the carpet padding and then he can cut out the sub floor between the joists as needed. Cut and trim slot in ceiling and install screen. Replace subfloor and put the carpet back. It is not that difficult of a job to do this. i have done an install like this.

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post #12 of 14 Old 07-18-2013, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

In your situation, unless you have attic access above the Screen assembly, you would have to construct a removable "slotted" panel that is held in place using "Bullet Snaps", and make the enclosure at least 2' wider* than what is needed to accommodate the width of the Screen's casing...which is always at least a solid 12" wider overall that is the actual Screen material that retracts up into it.

If the customer does not have attic space above him, he can still do a recessed install without messing up the ceiling, if he has a carpeted room above. Simply pull back the carpet, remove the carpet padding and then he can cut out the sub floor between the joists as needed. Cut and trim slot in ceiling and install screen. Replace subfloor and put the carpet back. It is not that difficult of a job to do this. i have done an install like this.

All of that depends upon the Floor/Ceiling joists running the correct way, of course. And also of course, any repair / replacement will require calling the Carpet layer back out. Most rooms require that at least one carpet seam be cut...you have to be pretty lucky not to have that be the case, and also, removal / loosening of enough carpet to allow for access to that much flooring will necessitate a re-stretching of the carpet, and trimming back of the resulting excess. Not a whole lot of DIY'ers know how to "Kick" Carpet in.

Even so, the suggestion has merit if access above is a carpeted room.

Murphy's Law says it will be hardwood, or a Tile bathroom....of course! biggrin.gif

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-18-2013, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

All of that depends upon the Floor/Ceiling joists running the correct way, of course. And also of course, any repair / replacement will require calling the Carpet layer back out. Most rooms require that at least one carpet seam be cut...you have to be pretty lucky not to have that be the case, and also, removal / loosening of enough carpet to allow for access to that much flooring will necessitate a re-stretching of the carpet, and trimming back of the resulting excess. Not a whole lot of DIY'ers know how to "Kick" Carpet in.

Even so, the suggestion has merit if access above is a carpeted room.

Murphy's Law says it will be hardwood, or a Tile bathroom....of course! biggrin.gif


Yes, joists do have to be parallel to the direction the screen needs to go, but removal and replacement of carpet and pad is a very simple job. You do not remove all of it. You just roll back enough to get to the area that you need. May not need to be re-stretched, but if so, you can rent these tools and pretty much anyone (not saying that you can match a pro, but anyone can do it) can stretch carpet. http://www.wikihow.com/Stretch-Carpet You tube videos are also available. This was especially helpful on a job where the existing ceiling was plaster, rather than drywall. Plaster repair can be expensive.

I have a little construction experience. smile.gif Everything I built was 5 stories or less.

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post #14 of 14 Old 07-18-2013, 12:13 PM
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Yeah Mike....the Stretching part isn't too hard...but if a entry or closet threshold must be cut, then everything changes. No Noob should ever try to "Iron" a new seam. Also, "Transition Strips" almost always have to be invariably replaced once pried up.

Such Doorway Seams almost always have to be cut 2x to go together neatly (ie: invisibly) and also, unless the existing Carpet was already pulled very tight, re-stretching will always result in some extra that needs to be cut off...and that too can be vexing for a Noob. Also, if Carpet is released across a point almost the width of a room, you can bet it will need to be re-stretched.

Then there is the type of Carpet involved. Wool Berber? Don't even suggest a Noob try to work with it. Ultra Low Nap? Ditto.

At best, a DIY Carpet re-lay is a problematical thingee. More people will fudge it up under the circumstances the OP would face than would ace it out.

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