DIY frame using Semour Center Stage XD - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 33 Old 10-21-2013, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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First I would like to thank everyone in the dedicated theater design and construction area of AVS and all their help.

The Screen in a word is amazing I made it constant image area 2.0:1 so over all it is 126"x65" that gives me
126"x52" 2.40:1 with 136" diag, 6 12" bars top and bottom
126"x54" 2.35:1 with 137" diag, 5 1/2" bars top and bottom
120"x65" 1.85:1 with 137" diag, (man this size make it like being there) 3" bars both sides
116"x65" 16x9 with 133" diag. 5" bars both sides
So in the way the best of both worlds If I would have done a 2.40:1 screen 126" wide my 16x9 size would have been 92"x52" with 106" diag. If I would have done 16X9 65" tall my 2.40:1 would have been 116"x48" 126" diag.

I was going to do the now famous Big minimalist screen wall but could not find any 5/4 fingered join pine anywhere. They only carry the 1” which is more like 5/8” so we decided to beef it up with a 2x4/MDF/2x4 sandwich.

a little dark brown paint I know it is not black but it is what I had (saving black for screen frame)

The inside 2/4 was 3 ½” shorter top and bottom to accommodate our install method. Same with the cross beam

We fastened a 2x4 to a piece of MDF and attached to the ceiling. Then we used a plumb to locate the bottom plate. Sorry for the blurry Pics


then we installed the inside 2x4 with ears for the cross beam to mount

from behind you see the ears

after that we installed the 2x4/OSB which was screwed to the finger joined pine

and there you have it

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post #2 of 33 Old 10-21-2013, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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What comes next the screen of course we started with the 1x3" fingered joined pine cut the piece to accommodate the Seymour 125”x64” DYI screen I ordered. I ordered it with the grommets installed and the bands. We cut to length and used the kregg tool to make our connections.


Perfect square 141 7/8" we used the L and T brackets and the Z bars to hand it on the cross beam



I trimed it with some toe molding so the screen would not ever tuch any of the suport beams

done

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From the man him self this means alot biggrin.gif
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post #3 of 33 Old 10-21-2013, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Following some other AVS members advice I wrapped the frame with the triple plush velvet from SYFabricks.




done
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post #4 of 33 Old 10-21-2013, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I worked with Jon at Seymour AV on my Center Stage XD on a custom Constant Image Area 2:1 screen with grommets and bands to wrap my DYI frame. It turned out being 126" wide and 65" tall giving me a 2.35:1 of 126"X53" 136" diagonal and a 16x9 of 115"x65" 132" diagonal


at first I laid out the screen punt my frame down and marked the screw locations 1 1/4" above each grommet.

you see here that the screw is perpendicular to the grommet as indicated by the marker.


when we got it on the wall there was a lot of sag so I chatted with Jon via email and Chris via PM and their solution was to add another 1/4" and to also have the screws get further off center as you got closer to the corners. Hope you understand what I mean. You can see the old screw holes

Wrapping the corner was interesting


and done it is tight as a drum I think that the velvet also helped as it was a smother surface so less resistant than the painted wood for the fabric to stretch over
With my LED accent lighting
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post #5 of 33 Old 10-21-2013, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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This is me trying to learn how to use my Panasonic AE8000
From the back of room


I zoomed my camera still from back

from the front seat with no zoom of camera

Before anyone asks this is before I did some fine toning of the projector leveling and what not I have to say the image is bright and after running Audyssey on my Denon AVR X4000 you do not even know the screen is there or the speakers are behind it.
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post #6 of 33 Old 10-23-2013, 10:23 AM
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Do you use any sort of masking at all?

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post #7 of 33 Old 10-25-2013, 05:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Do you use any sort of masking at all?
My intention is to make panels using the SYFabrick triple plush velvet for the top and bottom of the screen. At first the panels will just be above and below the screen like any other 2:35:1 CIH screen. If I find that the black bars projected by the AE-8000 are distracting there are some great threads over here about building light weight masking panels you just slide into place SYFabrick also carries the triple plush velvet in multiple colors so the jury i.e. my wife is still out whether we will do red or black drapes on the sides or just do panels there as well in the black. If I do the Red drapes I will probably make the leading edge toward the screen have a 6” boarder of the black. My intention is to keep my front speakers in the 16x9 area and since there is only about 5” bars left and right on the 16x9 due to my 2.1 screen there should be no issues in the sound field with 2.40:1.
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post #8 of 33 Old 11-26-2013, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

I worked with Jon at Seymour AV on my Center Stage XD on a custom Constant Image Area 2:1 screen with grommets and bands to wrap my DYI frame. It turned out being 126" wide and 65" tall giving me a 2.35:1 of 126"X53" 136" diagonal and a 16x9 of 115"x65" 132" diagonal


at first I laid out the screen punt my frame down and marked the screw locations 1 1/4" above each grommet.

you see here that the screw is perpendicular to the grommet as indicated by the marker.


when we got it on the wall there was a lot of sag so I chatted with Jon via email and Chris via PM and their solution was to add another 1/4" and to also have the screws get further off center as you got closer to the corners. Hope you understand what I mean. You can see the old screw holes

Wrapping the corner was interesting


and done it is tight as a drum I think that the velvet also helped as it was a smother surface so less resistant than the painted wood for the fabric to stretch over
With my LED accent lighting

Perhaps I am reading the instructions wrong for the DIY screen.  You built the frame, wrapped it in velvet, and then wrapped the frame, velvet and all, with the screen.  Isn't the velvet suppose to be visible?  Did you modify the instructions?  Also, above and below your screen, did you cover with GOM or basic drywall?  Looking to build my screen as well.  I like the way you did it as it ensures the screen to be nice and tight.  Haven't even ordered the supplies yet, but thought that the black velvet boarder would look sharp.  Thanks for any feedback you can give.  Seems like the more I learn, the more questions I have, lol.

 

KA

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post #9 of 33 Old 11-26-2013, 10:00 AM - Thread Starter
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You read and understand correct. Most DYI frame builds that wrap the screen around the frame the way I did normally paint the frame black which is what I did at first. The idea is black absorbs light and white reflects light and since an AT screen is translucent and light goes through it if the frame was white it would reflect back. Tim and others recommended to warp the frame with the triple plush velvet which is used to frame most screens as it absorbs more lite than most fabrics. Since I have it to build my panels with I figured why not.

My screen is 24" from the front wall which is lined with 1 1/2" mineral wool and covered with black materiel I bought from from SYFabrics. I am going to make panels above and below the screen and wrap them with the tipple plush velvet also purchased from SYFabrics. So my entire screen wall will be triple plush velvet not just a frame around the screen like most do. My friend had a screen with a 3" border of the velvet and when watching 2.40:1 the black bars which are projected above the image actually were wider than 3" so we had to wrap some 1x6 finger joined pine with velvet to absorb the over projected back bars. I will either make panels on the sides of the screen or drapes made from the triple flush fabric.
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post #10 of 33 Old 11-26-2013, 10:44 AM
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Thanks for clearing that up.  I am assuming you are putting your L/C/R speakers behind the screen and maybe your subs?  Do you have enough room with 24''?  How low from the ceiling are you hanging the screen?  I am worried about mine (going way too big) consuming the whole wall and not have enough space between the screen and floor/ceiling.  Right now I am planning on 6'' from the ceiling and 18'' from the floor.  I like the idea of an entire velvet front wall.  Have you heard any feedback on if it impacts acoustics?  Looks great so far, love to see more pictures of the room/stage area!

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post #11 of 33 Old 11-26-2013, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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yes my speakers are behind the screen on stands so that tweeter is at ear height. 24" is tight but most LCRs are not that deep it is the subwoffers where you may have an issue with 24" depending on what you get. my subwoffers are not behind the screen they are located 1/4 of the room width from both the side walls which is just outside the screen to the left and right. They will still be behind either the curtain or panels that I have yet to build. The Seymour Center Stage XD materiel is designed for the speakers to be there and both DTS and Dolby standards locate the speakers there so it is a positive effect on the acoustics. 6" from ceiling and 18" from floor should not bee an issue. I have seen other builds with less.
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post #12 of 33 Old 12-10-2013, 01:03 PM - Thread Starter
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So people asked how I hung the screen. I used picture brackets from HD I have heard these referred to as French cleats and Z brackets.
they only had 2 of the 12" so we also got an 18" and put it in the center. We liked the design of the 18" better.
12" screen side

12" minimalist wall side


18" screen side

18" minimalist wall side

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post #13 of 33 Old 12-30-2013, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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A lot of folks were asking what I was going to do around the screen so here is the frame wall build.
My granddaughter helping with my screen wall frames and my Grandson and Son-in-law Kevin helped me wrap them.


I made the frames out of 2x2s all of the 2x2s in my build are from ripped 2x4s so unlike the 2x2s purchased at box store they are 1 1/2 x 1 3/4 vise 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 this plays into the overall depth or height so you need to watch which way it is turned or you may end up taking things apart. Ask me how I know!
Here are the frames getting ready for the triple plush velvet bought at SyFabric


When I laid them on the 44" wide velvet there was plenty to wrap around both frames making less waste.

Just like before just wrap pull tight and staple the crap out of them

I wrapped the ends like a Christmas present. Yes I said it “Christmas” those political correct Nazis can kiss my A$$

finished product


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post #14 of 33 Old 12-30-2013, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I am still not sure about whether I was going to make panels for the sides or curtains and I had enough velvet to wrap some 2x4s to temporally frame my screen so I went for it. That is what Kevin and Austin were helping me with. I kind of like the overall look and will post before and after as well.
20131229_215025.jpg
20131229_215044.jpg
The frame and 2x4s made it so dark I had to turn my back lighting on to get some good contrast.
20131229_215131.jpg
This was the before my buddy Rob and I made boxes out of 2x4and MDF and wrapped them in Carpet remnants to get tweeter at ear height actually just above ear height for 1st row.
20131229_134534.jpg
20131229_133829.jpg
From behind
20131229_144021.jpg
Here is the finished product agian with back lighting I like the look may not do anything.
20131229_215131.jpg
more shots with out the 2x4s
20131229_142908.jpg
20131229_142843.jpg
This shot best shows all my colors
20131229_145539.jpg
view from outside door
20131229_145350.jpg
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post #15 of 33 Old 02-01-2014, 11:52 AM
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What's DYI?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

My bad DIY
That's what I thought but didn't want to assume. BTW, it's DYI in your sig too. wink.gif Thanks for posting stuff like this. I'm not very good with my hands so it's always nice to watch you guys do this and it's helpful to have good "how to" pictures if I ever venture into it. smile.gif

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post #18 of 33 Old 02-03-2014, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AYColumbia View Post

That's what I thought but didn't want to assume. BTW, it's DYI in your sig too. wink.gif Thanks for posting stuff like this. I'm not very good with my hands so it's always nice to watch you guys do this and it's helpful to have good "how to" pictures if I ever venture into it. smile.gif
thanks I fixed my signature. It helps me to have friends that have skills and then I learn from them.
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post #19 of 33 Old 02-27-2014, 05:02 PM
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Came out great - we have similar carpet too! (mine is brown version of what looks to be the same thing)
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post #20 of 33 Old 03-02-2014, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Like I said my theater is a combination of many great ideas here. You, Spaceman, and Mario and anything BIGmouthin DC touches biggrin.gif
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post #21 of 33 Old 06-09-2014, 11:53 AM
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What do you think the savings are vs a purchased frame/completed screen?   I like the flexibility on the dimensions, but wondered if the 'cost' was a 10% savings, 20% savings, etc?

 

Thanks,


Kevin

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post #22 of 33 Old 06-09-2014, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post

What do you think the savings are vs a purchased frame/completed screen?   I like the flexibility on the dimensions, but wondered if the 'cost' was a 10% savings, 20% savings, etc?

Thanks,


Kevin

Provided you own tools and possess skills, you can save as much as 50% by building the screen yourself. I saved about 25%, but I had to purchase a saw, plus I had a friend help out as well.

But I've also put together one of the Seymour fixed screens, and if you have the budget and don't want to take the time to build it yourself, they are really simple to put together and they work great.

I love my iPhone, but it will never replace my turntable.

The Cinema 1858 Remodel Thread
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post #23 of 33 Old 06-10-2014, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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If you look at their web site Seymour AV store a 137" Diag 16x9 is $1167 there 2.35:1 at 140" Diag is $1156 I paid a little over $550 for the screen cut on a 15 degree angle with grommets. You can get the materiel for a little over $350 and stretch and staple the screen but I did not want to go that route. I probably only have $50-$75 in wood and hardware but you would have to build the minimalist wall anyway and the hanger brackets so for the frame itself less than $30. If you wanted the headache of stretching and stapling the material you would save $75% if you go the route. I did I saved right at 50%. They have some pdf instructions on the site how to stretch the materiel. I just wanted a tight professional look you get with the grommets and bands. Seymour AV, DIY screens The $500- $600 you save is another DIY Sub
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post #24 of 33 Old 06-10-2014, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

If you look at their web site Seymour AV store a 137" Diag 16x9 is $1167 there 2.35:1 at 140" Diag is $1156 I paid a little over $550 for the screen cut on a 15 degree angle with grommets. You can get the materiel for a little over $350 and stretch and staple the screen but I did not want to go that route. I probably only have $50-$75 in wood and hardware but you would have to build the minimalist wall anyway and the hanger brackets so for the frame itself less than $30. If you wanted the headache of stretching and stapling the material you would save $75% if you go the route. I did I saved right at 50%. They have some pdf instructions on the site how to stretch the materiel. I just wanted a tight professional look you get with the grommets and bands. Seymour AV, DIY screens The $500- $600 you save is another DIY Sub

Thanks for the input.  I definitely would want to do the grommets as well, that seems to remove a bit of the room for error (or, allows you to reposition screws easily if there is an issue!).  

 

I was all set for a pair of HSU VTF-15s, but have just started looking at some of the DIY Subs... I frankly know very little about any of it, so, lots of researching those threads if that is the way to go.  The little I have looked into that, I believe I would buy the DIYSoundgroup pre cut panels/boxes, again, similar to the grommets - reducing the chance of error (and frankly, time involved!).  I am planning in wall speakers, and hadn't found any DIY in-wall with enclosure speakers yet.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post

Thanks for the input.  I definitely would want to do the grommets as well, that seems to remove a bit of the room for error (or, allows you to reposition screws easily if there is an issue!).  

I was all set for a pair of HSU VTF-15s, but have just started looking at some of the DIY Subs... I frankly know very little about any of it, so, lots of researching those threads if that is the way to go.  The little I have looked into that, I believe I would buy the DIYSoundgroup pre cut panels/boxes, again, similar to the grommets - reducing the chance of error (and frankly, time involved!).  I am planning in wall speakers, and hadn't found any DIY in-wall with enclosure speakers yet.
I had a dead 12" JBL Sub and was looking at replacing or fixing it which led me to parts express. I talked with their techs that are great and decided to build one of their kits from Dayton and repair my JBL. Here is a link to My Dayton Audio T1204K 12" Titanic Mk 4, 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Kit build I also bought a matching 500 Watt Dayton Plate amp and fixed my JBL so now I have 2 sweet subwoofers. You can read the details over there but you cannot go wrong. I know a lot of folks who build the Subs do a passive model with a Crown or Behringer amp in their rack but to me a plate amp is easier. Also I put two 20 amp circuits in the front for the plate amps and ran the RCA cable so I was sort of locked into that route. 2 of these 12" kits or even their 15" kits would sound really nice. My buddy has an HSU VTF-15 and don't get me wrong it is sweet but My 12" Dayton is close for less than half the price the 15" kit would be half of the HSU so you could get 2 for the price of one and they will hold their own. Two subs at 1/4 wall length in from each side will eliminate a lot off the nulls across the seating for better all around base. You can also get the Same Kits Erich sells at DYI Sound group with a 15” driver then and a Behringer amp for about the same cost. The Dayton Plate Amps has equlization but the Behringer does not so that is an additional cost as well

my 12" kit Dayton Audio 12" Titanic Mk4 500 watt subwoofer kit
15" kit Dayton-audio 15" titanic-mk4 1000 watt subwoofer kit

or this
15" woofer with flat pack Dayton Aaudio 15" ultimax subwoofer and cabinet package
and this
Behringer EP4000 Europower Power Amplifier 2 x 1400W Behringer ep4000 power amplifier 2x1400w
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post #26 of 33 Old 06-10-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post


I had a dead 12" JBL Sub and was looking at replacing or fixing it which led me to parts express. I talked with their techs that are great and decided to build one of their kits from Dayton and repair my JBL. Here is a link to My Dayton Audio T1204K 12" Titanic Mk 4, 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Kit build I also bought a matching 500 Watt Dayton Plate amp and fixed my JBL so now I have 2 sweet subwoofers. You can read the details over there but you cannot go wrong. I know a lot of folks who build the Subs do a passive model with a Crown or Behringer amp in their rack but to me a plate amp is easier. Also I put two 20 amp circuits in the front for the plate amps and ran the RCA cable so I was sort of locked into that route. 2 of these 12" kits or even their 15" kits would sound really nice. My buddy has an HSU VTF-15 and don't get me wrong it is sweet but My 12" Dayton is close for less than half the price the 15" kit would be half of the HSU so you could get 2 for the price of one and they will hold their own. Two subs at 1/4 wall length in from each side will eliminate a lot off the nulls across the seating for better all around base. You can also get the Same Kits Erich sells at DYI Sound group with a 15” driver then and a Behringer amp for about the same cost. The Dayton Plate Amps has equlization but the Behringer does not so that is an additional cost as well

my 12" kit Dayton Audio 12" Titanic Mk4 500 watt subwoofer kit
15" kit Dayton-audio 15" titanic-mk4 1000 watt subwoofer kit

or this
15" woofer with flat pack Dayton Aaudio 15" ultimax subwoofer and cabinet package
and this
Behringer EP4000 Europower Power Amplifier 2 x 1400W Behringer ep4000 power amplifier 2x1400w


It turns out Parts Express is about a 15 - 20 minute drive from where I live, I may have to go up and meet with them for some education & help.   I must say, looking at the site is a bit over-whelming.  The two kits you refer too, definitely seem simple - but then there are just so many options out there!  I appreciate being pointed in the right direction, and now that I know this place is so close, it will make it worth the trip to learn a bit about this stuff first hand!

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post #27 of 33 Old 06-10-2014, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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not saying it is the right direction just the one I took LOL there is a video and all you need is some power tools and 3M spray glue for the liner. Took me a little over an hour total I think. With the other kit you will need some clamps and glue to put the box together not sure if the spiked feet, screws and wht not come with the kit. I think it is just the woofer and the flat pack so you need some wood working skills. Not that I don't have the skills but for $629 for a 12" Sub that goes down to 25 Hz ain't to bad. The 15" is only $150 more and has an extra 500 Watts so why not. The tech said for my room if I was not fixing my JBL than get the 15" but he said two 12" subs are better than one 15" So I just got the 12" and the same amp to fix the JBL.
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post #28 of 33 Old 06-12-2014, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
What do you think the savings are vs a purchased frame/completed screen?   I like the flexibility on the dimensions, but wondered if the 'cost' was a 10% savings, 20% savings, etc?
 
Thanks,

Kevin
We are building the 180" scope screen... To purchase it complete it is $2499... I will have around $1200 in ours including a extruded aluminum screen.

Denon 4520ci, 3 JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, 3 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, 4 Klipsch HIPs, 2 Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, 3 Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000u, 2 Danley DTS10 subs, & Yamaha P7000s.
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post #29 of 33 Old 06-12-2014, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
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We are building the 180" scope screen... To purchase it complete it is $2499... I will have around $1200 in ours including a extruded aluminum screen.
I do not have the skills to do alumunum so I just stuck with the wood frame. 180" is a big screen is that Diag? Woould be nice if you did a build thread.
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post #30 of 33 Old 06-12-2014, 11:20 AM
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I do not have the skills to do alumunum so I just stuck with the wood frame. 180" is a big screen is that Diag? Woould be nice if you did a build thread.
No skills required with extruded aluminum... It bolts together.

Denon 4520ci, 3 JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, 3 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, 4 Klipsch HIPs, 2 Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, 3 Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000u, 2 Danley DTS10 subs, & Yamaha P7000s.
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