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nezff 12-04-2013 01:52 PM




I just recently purchased the Panasonic AE 8000. I'm currently looking for a screen in the 92-110 inch range. I have sloped or slanted ceilings in my room so this hampers me on how big I can go.

My first dilemma is deciding on 16 x 9 or 2.53 screen. I will be watching Blu-rays and playing console games. I'm under the assumption that console games or in 16 x 9 format and most Blu-rays or in the 2.35 format.

My next dilemma is what brand screen to get. I have looked at Canada, elite, and Seymour XD.

I'm including a picture of my set up. After the TV is gone the screen will hang just above the center channel which will move up to the TV stand. The center channel is roughly 14 inches and the TV stand is 18 inches which gives me roughly 32 inches. I plan to possibly do a false wall in the future which might free up space for a bigger screen where the speakers will be in front of the false wall.

I'm currently needing advice on the 16 x 9 or 2.35 screen and a brand of screen from you guys. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

airscapes 12-04-2013 01:58 PM

Go with the false wall and AT fabric and be done. Do to you size restrictions, go with 16:9 and if the black bars bother you rig up some removable masking panels, DONE!

You got a great room, don't skimp now, do it once correctly and enjoy.

nezff 12-04-2013 02:10 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

Go with the false wall and AT fabric and be done. Do to you size restrictions, go with 16:9 and if the black bars bother you rig up some removable masking panels, DONE!

You got a great room, don't skimp now, do it once correctly and enjoy.
I noticed one guy using fabric from syfabrics. I wasn't sure where you could get black fabric wide enough to cover the wall or I guess just do panels.

nezff 12-05-2013 03:30 PM

quick question. I was measuring my room and noticed that depending on what size screen I go with, it will be wider than my current tv stand and possible hang over my current speaker setup. This leads me to moving my subs facing in towards the corners and moving my speakers further out. OR building a false wall, turning the subs in towards the corners and getting a acoustic material screen and putting speakers behind it?

I don't know much about acoustic screens. Do they hamper the sound in any way etc...?

nezff 12-05-2013 08:56 PM

Could someone explain this to me: I put in a 92 inch screen with the PJ I have. It comes up in red writing under throw distance "recommended brightness for rooms with ambient lighting". I moved the throw distance back to 13'11" and got a different message in green.



airscapes 12-06-2013 05:20 AM

The smaller the screen and closer the projector the brighter the image. An image can be TO bright in a Dark room. In the center of the calculator is a fl ## this is the Footlaberts (light output off the screen) for a dark room a 12-16 fl is recommended to prevent eye strain. I view at over 20fl and like it. To much light is a good thing as the calculator uses the manufactures max light output. You can always use low lamp and there are other ways to reduce light.. just can not make it brighter if your screen is to large to start.

nezff 12-06-2013 06:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

The smaller the screen and closer the projector the brighter the image. An image can be TO bright in a Dark room. In the center of the calculator is a fl ## this is the Footlaberts (light output off the screen) for a dark room a 12-16 fl is recommended to prevent eye strain. I view at over 20fl and like it. To much light is a good thing as the calculator uses the manufactures max light output. You can always use low lamp and there are other ways to reduce light.. just can not make it brighter if your screen is to large to start.

My room when watching at night is very dark. Daytime watching is a just a tad brighter but not much. I have that window in the rear which has blinds on it, but it is a arched window and I have a feeling Ill be covering it up somehow in the future.

The calculator that I was using last night shows 22fl. I got it to there by moving the PJ further back.

Here is what it shows without moving anything and a 92 inch screen: 12 foot PJ, 27fl


Here is when I move the PJ back:
18 foot PJ, 17fL

airscapes 12-06-2013 07:00 AM

So what it comes down to is you have more than enough light and that is a good thing. The issue happen when you are trying to light up a screen larger than 120"
and the fl is at 12 or lower. In this case as the lamp ages and losses 20-50% of it's brightness the image would be to dark to enjoy. You are in good shape, put the projector where you want it in the room as long as it can produce the size you want from that location.

nezff 12-06-2013 07:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

So what it comes down to is you have more than enough light and that is a good thing. The issue happen when you are trying to light up a screen larger than 120"
and the fl is at 12 or lower. In this case as the lamp ages and losses 20-50% of it's brightness the image would be to dark to enjoy. You are in good shape, put the projector where you want it in the room as long as it can produce the size you want from that location.

ok. question.

If I ever go bigger down the road, something like 110 max, would I be ok mounting the PJ in a spot for a 92-110 screen?

airscapes 12-06-2013 07:08 AM

Change the 92 to 110" on the calculator and if the projector can produce both sizes from the distance you want and the 110" fl is not under 12, sure.

You may want to spend some time in the Dedicated Room Forum as there are many examples of false walls with AT screens in that forum.

nezff 12-06-2013 07:13 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

Change the 92 to 110" on the calculator and if the projector can produce both sizes from the distance you want and the 110" fl is not under 12, sure.

You may want to spend some time in the Dedicated Room Forum as there are many examples of false walls with AT screens in that forum.



106 inch screen and I pushed the mount to 15 foot in the room.





92 screen and same distance as 106




Is there a range in fL I should be at? too bright, too dark?

LordJoseph 12-06-2013 11:41 AM

Nice projector!  2400 lumens is pretty strong.  

 

Your sweet spot on the throw calculator is the green area because you can completely control lighting in your room.  The red area is for rooms that are bright with a lot of ambient light that can't be controlled.  So like airscapes said, in your setup go as big as you can with the screen because at 106 or 110 your brightness falls within the green area.  Just remember that at a 15ft throw distance shadowing will occur probably at 10' or less in front of your screen, which probably isn't an issue for you.

 

Ratio....16:9 imo

 

Screens figure out what you need, then shop the major manufacturers.  If you're in the green spot you probably don't need a high gain screen.


nezff 12-06-2013 11:52 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post

Nice projector!  2400 lumens is pretty strong.  

Your sweet spot on the throw calculator is the green area because you can completely control lighting in your room.  The red area is for rooms that are bright with a lot of ambient light that can't be controlled.  So like airscapes said, in your setup go as big as you can with the screen because at 106 or 110 your brightness falls within the green area.  Just remember that at a 15ft throw distance shadowing will occur probably at 10' or less in front of your screen, which probably isn't an issue for you.

Ratio....16:9 imo

Screens figure out what you need, then shop the major manufacturers.  If you're in the green spot you probably don't need a high gain screen.

The screens in mind were Carada 92 inch 1.0 gain, Elite ezFrame 92 inch 1.0 gain, or Seymour XD DIY screen 92 inch 1.2 gain.

Should I move my PJ back to fall into the green area? Meaning I could move it back further than the 12 feet the calculator has it?

Shadowing? remember, this is my first setup

Here is the min throw I can move back to just get in the green area:


nezff 12-06-2013 12:29 PM


LordJoseph 12-06-2013 12:46 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post


The screens in mind were Carada 92 inch 1.0 gain, Elite ezFrame 92 inch 1.0 gain, or Seymour XD DIY screen 92 inch 1.2 gain.

Should I move my PJ back to fall into the green area? Meaning I could move it back further than the 12 feet the calculator has it?

Shadowing? remember, this is my first setup

Here is the min throw I can move back to just get in the green area:

 

What are those are those square black boxes?  Is that covering windows in an attic?

 

Honestly in your situation the screen size is determining where you put the projector here because your space where the screen goes and specifically width is limited.

 

In a dark room, or a room like yours where you'll be watching with the lights off then the sweet spot for luminance level is 12 to 22fl, so as you can see you're at the high end of that, so you can definitely move it back.  But you can't because you can only fit a certain size screen, so that pretty much settles it.  Read this: http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=489&Itemid=178&lang=en

 

Here's a tip, stop thinking about diagonal size, width is your main measurement here especially if you've settled on a 16:9 ratio.  I focus on width instead of diagonal sizes because it's easier for me to visualize a 7.67 foot screen width (92") or 8 foot at 96" than thinking about diagonal measurements.  

 

Keep in mind fixed screens have a frame, the Elite EzFrame has a very thick frame, like 2.36 inches, so you have to add that to the viewable screen size. So if you want a screen width of 96 inches, you need to fit 100.72" across in that space.  You don't want the top of the screen to be too low, the projector can only do so much vertical adjustment, unless you have a really good ceiling mount. (check out the Peerless ceiling mounts with the vertical slide channels)

 

Where will your seating area be in relation to the projector?  You usually want the project behind or in front of the seating area, it's not cool when it's above it.

 

Shadowing is the point where you get to close to the screen and block the image, again...looking at your pics doesn't seem like anyone will be near the screen.

 

Honestly I would just put the false wall in now and get everything done the first go around.  With that type of projector, with limited light issues go as big as you can.  The whole point of a projector is to go big.  If putting in a false wall means a bigger screen, do it now, you don't want to have to buy another screen down the road.

 

If you can't do the false wall now, then you need a screen with black backing especially with a window behind the screen, and since you're at the high end of the luminance spectrum definitely lower gain, so the Carada or the Elite, maybe even consider a grey screen .8 gain or something.   Although with 500,000:1 contrast ratio you'll be fine with no gain (1.0)


LordJoseph 12-06-2013 12:56 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

 

 

It has a 100% vertical adjustment and a 2X zoom lens, so you have a lot of room for adjustment.  I'm betting you can mount it 3 feet or less from the ceiling and it'll be fine.   According to Projector Central, "the projector has manual H/V lens shift with a joystick-style adjustment mechanism. This system allows for a total shift range of three image heights by 1.5 image widths. In other words, you can move the picture one full image height either up or down from the central position, or a quarter of the image width in either direction."


nezff 12-06-2013 12:58 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post

What are those are those square black boxes?  Is that covering windows in an attic?

Honestly in your situation the screen size is determining where you put the projector here because your space where the screen goes and specifically width is limited.

In a dark room, or a room like yours where you'll be watching with the lights off then the sweet spot for luminance level is 12 to 22fl, so as you can see you're at the high end of that, so you can definitely move it back.  But you can't because you can only fit a certain size screen, so that pretty much settles it.  Read this: http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=489&Itemid=178&lang=en

Here's a tip, stop thinking about diagonal size, width is your main measurement here especially if you've settled on a 16:9 ratio.  I focus on width instead of diagonal sizes because it's easier for me to visualize a 7.67 foot screen width (92") or 8 foot at 96" than thinking about diagonal measurements.  

Keep in mind fixed screens have a frame, the Elite EzFrame has a very thick frame, like 2.36 inches, so you have to add that to the viewable screen size. So if you want a screen width of 96 inches, you need to fit 100.72" across in that space.  You don't want the top of the screen to be too low, the projector can only do so much vertical adjustment, unless you have a really good ceiling mount. (check out the Peerless ceiling mounts with the vertical slide channels)

Where will your seating area be in relation to the projector?  You usually want the project behind or in front of the seating area, it's not cool when it's above it.

Shadowing is the point where you get to close to the screen and block the image, again...looking at your pics doesn't seem like anyone will be near the screen.

Honestly I would just put the false wall in now and get everything done the first go around.  With that type of projector, with limited light issues go as big as you can.  The whole point of a projector is to go big.  If putting in a false wall means a bigger screen, do it now, you don't want to have to buy another screen down the road.

If you can't do the false wall now, then you need a screen with black backing especially with a window behind the screen, and since you're at the high end of the luminance spectrum definitely lower gain, so the Carada or the Elite, maybe even consider a grey screen .8 gain or something.   Although with 500,000:1 contrast ratio you'll be fine with no gain (1.0)
acoustic panels are the black boxes .tongue.gif

The seating can be pushed forward or back. no biggy there.

So you are saying, I cant go with a sceen of 92 inches and mount the PJ within those calculator specs? 9 foot -18foot. When I move the PJ back on the calculator, the fL lowers. is there anything wrong with that?

The window can be covered up when the false wall is done.

LordJoseph 12-06-2013 01:14 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post


acoustic panels are the black boxes .tongue.gif

The seating can be pushed forward or back. no biggy there.

So you are saying, I cant go with a sceen of 92 inches and mount the PJ within those calculator specs? 9 foot -18foot. When I move the PJ back on the calculator, the fL lowers. is there anything wrong with that?

The window can be covered up when the false wall is done.

 

It looks like 9 feet throw distance is the minimum recommended, so I would move it back and with 2X zoom, just zoom in to make it fit your screen.  That way later, if you do a false wall and can get a bigger screen you might not have to remount it.

 

at 9 feet with 21fl, that's very bright, like I said....you have plenty of room to loose luminance.

 

Here's what I would do.  I would get white bed sheet, a board, or something to that effect and tack it to the ceiling and wall exactly where the screen will go -  it doesnt have to be perfect, you just want the image where the screen will be.  Then setup the projector at the 9 feet distance and see how it fits on the sheet, adjust the zoom and you'll get a very good feeling on where you want to be.  Move it back as far as you can and using the zoom see how far back it can go to still fit your screen.  A ladder will help with this.  Record all the measurements, make a spreadsheet....don't forget your seating.  I would mount it as far back as possible.  You can also somewhat test how far the projector needs to be from the ceiling.


nezff 12-06-2013 01:24 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post

It looks like 9 feet throw distance is the minimum recommended, so I would move it back and with 2X zoom, just zoom in to make it fit your screen.  That way later, if you do a false wall and can get a bigger screen you might not have to remount it.

at 9 feet with 21fl, that's very bright, like I said....you have plenty of room to loose luminance.

Here's what I would do.  I would get white bed sheet, a board, or something to that effect and tack it to the ceiling and wall exactly where the screen will go -  it doesnt have to be perfect, you just want the image where the screen will be.  Then setup the projector at the 9 feet distance and see how it fits on the sheet, adjust the zoom and you'll get a very good feeling on where you want to be.  Move it back as far as you can and using the zoom see how far back it can go to still fit your screen.  A ladder will help with this.  Record all the measurements, make a spreadsheet....don't forget your seating.  I would mount it as far back as possible.  You can also somewhat test how far the projector needs to be from the ceiling.

PJ comes in today, so that sounds like a plan. The false wall might need to be something I dive into now. smile.gif

LordJoseph 12-06-2013 01:33 PM

Yeah I mean setting up a projector is a lot of work, so if you're already doing it, might as well go all the way.

 

You'll feel much better about everything once you set it up and play around with it, you'll know exactly what screen to get.

 

In the end, it's all worth it man


airscapes 12-06-2013 02:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

PJ comes in today, so that sounds like a plan. The false wall might need to be something I dive into now. smile.gif

It would be silly not to. You have more than enough light for AT fabric, you have the seating distance needed for AT fabric (I think) and your audio will be behind the screen where it should be.
Here is a screen fabric report done by a forum member umr. AT is the second set of data in the pdf http://www.accucalhd.com/documents/accucal_front_projection_screen_report.pdf

nezff 12-16-2013 12:41 PM

Got the new Panny 8000 replacement unboxed. Did a temp setup on a ladder and a 92 inch bedsheet.The Panny 8000 was roughly16'10-17 feet back from the sheet. Going by the calculator on a 92 inch screen, it stated I should mount it 9-18 feet back. I measured it from the ladder to the screen after I took everything down. Meant to ask, I ran Pacific Rim from my WD passport through my Sony S580, then to my Marantz 8801, then finally to the PJ. I noticed a somewhat soap opera effect or fake effect like when a certain setting is turned on. Is there a way to turn this off or is this just built in?

This is about as big as a screen I can fit in between speakers unless I build a false wall. The only holdup on the false wall would be trying to figure out my component placement.
Sorry for the quality, snapped these real quick with the iPhone 5

Here are my results:




LordJoseph 12-17-2013 08:16 AM

I am unfamiliar with all those devices you are running it through so it's hard to answer that.  For setup purposes I would just run it through one device, add other devices in later, it's probably fixable


nezff 12-17-2013 08:23 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post

I am unfamiliar with all those devices you are running it through so it's hard to answer that.  For setup purposes I would just run it through one device, add other devices in later, it's probably fixable

frame creation was on. no biggy

Limp Fox 12-20-2013 10:03 AM

Neff why not pull your entertainment center out of there? I think you'll like it better, not to mention you will be able to go with a bigger screen. Just mount your center below the screen. Putting your screen where your bedsheet is shows your eyes would be looking up versus straight at the screen.

LordJoseph 12-20-2013 10:37 AM

Just an FYI Neff, I just swapped out my retro-reflective CineGray 5D (1.5 gain) screen for the CineWhite 1.1 Gain, which has more diffusive qualities.

 

First both screens and material types are great, but for me with the w1080st I like the CineWhite better.  No hotspot, very uniform brightness and color.  It bleeds but that is to be expected as it's reflecting the light everywhere as opposed to right back at you.

 

 

That's a ****** picture, I can't seem to take decent pics on my iPhone, anyways it looks way better in real life.

 

I was going to try and sell my Cinegray screen material but I think I'm going to keep it as a backup


nezff 12-20-2013 04:41 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Limp Fox View Post

Neff why not pull your entertainment center out of there? I think you'll like it better, not to mention you will be able to go with a bigger screen. Just mount your center below the screen. Putting your screen where your bedsheet is shows your eyes would be looking up versus straight at the screen.

I need somewhere to keep components. If I could somehow put them somewhere else, I would gladly do that. I was thinking just hiding them behind the screen wall.

I think the screen would look better hung a tad lower than where I had it on the bed sheet. I felt like I was looking up too much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post

Just an FYI Neff, I just swapped out my retro-reflective CineGray 5D (1.5 gain) screen for the CineWhite 1.1 Gain, which has more diffusive qualities.

First both screens and material types are great, but for me with the w1080st I like the CineWhite better.  No hotspot, very uniform brightness and color.  It bleeds but that is to be expected as it's reflecting the light everywhere as opposed to right back at you.




That's a ****** picture, I can't seem to take decent pics on my iPhone, anyways it looks way better in real life.

I was going to try and sell my Cinegray screen material but I think I'm going to keep it as a backup

I would love to see pics of your room.

nezff 12-22-2013 08:39 AM

I checked in on the Seymour xd at material. I'm liking the price so far.

I'm wondering if it would just be better to build my own frame out of poplar or pine? I have a kreg jig.

Next question, where is the best place to get velvet for wrapping the frame? Syfabrics, Joann, Hancock?

I'm assuming the Seymour material just staples to the back of the frame?

LordJoseph 12-22-2013 08:44 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

I checked in on the Seymour xd at material. I'm liking the price so far.

I'm wondering if it would just be better to build my own frame out of poplar or pine? I have a kreg jig.

Next question, where is the best place to get velvet for wrapping the frame? Syfabrics, Joann, Hancock?

I'm assuming the Seymour material just staples to the back of the frame?

 

If it's a tensioned screen that's a bad idea.  The screen likely needs to be stretched out and the frames that go with it are made specifically to do that and have the right materials - tension rods and clips.  


nezff 12-22-2013 09:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LordJoseph View Post

If it's a tensioned screen that's a bad idea.  The screen likely needs to be stretched out and the frames that go with it are made specifically to do that and have the right materials - tension rods and clips.  

It's a fixed frame. The guy at Seymour said I could just staple it to the frame.


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