Originally Posted by nathan_h
Although I haven't pulled my screen off the wall yet (since it requires dismantling bass traps and moving speakers etc etc) a quick search online found some photos that I think may look like what I remember from five years ago when it went up.
Audioholics, for example:
If this is right, I'm kinda hosed!
We just have to think outside the box and get a bit creative... Where there is a will there is a way!
The easiiest and simplest way would be to use the current attachment points which would be the existing snaps. You could take some non streching material and create a very short tab that would have a snap button on one end and a grommet right next to the snap button on the other end and use the appropriate sized O-Ring to attach to an O-Ring installed on the screen material. You would pass the O-Ring through both grommets and then join the O-Ring ends together with something such as a nylon cable tie.
Another way might be to use some inner tube and cut it into strips that would loop through some wide enough grommets that are installed on the screen and then you double up the inner tube at the snap end and install a snap through the two layers joined at the snap end and snap it on the existing frame snap hardware. This would give you a tab for snap attachment and the benefit of constant active tensioning at the same time. You could also maybe use NO Grommet on the screen material and use Snap fasteners on the screen AND the Frame. That way you could experiment easily as you go along and create various inner tube strips of varying lengths and strengths via (1) or if needed (2) layers of material. You can then easily snap the tensioning tabs on and off at will!
Instead of attaching to the thinner horizontal portion of the frame where the snaps are located you could also somehow attach to the thicker vertical boxed portion of the frame with some sort of ring, eye or hook and again use the O-Ring attachment method. If you cant drill and screw or drill and tap you can drill and use pop rivets to attach your attachment hardware of choice. You would probably want to attach as low as possible on the vertical boxed portion of the frame so the screen stays as close as possible to the thin edge of the frame where the screen and frame meet.
Keep in mind that if you try to use the existing snaps you would be relegated to using only that given amount of tensioning points. Is that enough tensioning points and are they spaced appropriately? Maybe, maybe not... you will have to figure that out. It looks like there are quite a few attachment points on the Falcon and Seymour screens. If you can install your own attachment points you can have as many as needed or the snap points might indeed be enough.
***NOTE: Should you want to ADD any additional Snap Fittings, a company called Sailrite sells a tool called the Snaprite Surface Mount Stud Die ($24.95) that attaches to a Pop Rivet Tool to properly install additional Snap fittings to the frame. Be sure the depth where you want to mount is of course conducive to the use of a pop rivet.
***NOTE: If you should want to REMOVE any of the frame Snap Fittings you can just simply drill them out with the appropriate sized drill bit.
***NOTE: Snap Fastener Kits for screen and attachment tabs here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190992679159?lpid=82
HINT: Just be sure that the Snap Fastener Kit you get can handle the thickness of the tab material / inner tube / fabric etc. you will be sandwiching as in 1, 2 or 3 layers etc!
There you go, some ideas to get the creative juices flowing!