Has anyone hooked up their Stewart ElectriScreen Electrimask to an X10 Module?
If so, how does it work and what is needed? I'd like to be able to lower/raise the screen as well as the mask.
Thanks in advance.
My Home Theater Project
I can't help with the screen question. However, I have used these x10 modules http://www.smarthome.com/2010.html to control other devices that require a set of relay contacts.
I have also used this type http://www.smarthome.com/4220.html to detect when a contact has closed or opened (i.e. when my garage door is fully opened or closed).
[This message has been edited by Mark Lopez (edited 03-20-2001).]
Mario, I know this is somewhat possible. By somewhat I mean I know there was a thread on here somewhere which dealt with how to use an x10 switch and a relay to activate the screen remotely to go up and down. The only problem was that you couldn't stop it anywhere in between. You had to simply let the screen go up or down until it reached its limit switch. This is sort of a drag since it sure would be nice to have buttons on your remote for different aspect ratios.
I tried to think of some ways around this but I just don't know how electronically sound they are. I am by no means an electrical wizard.
As for the masking I just don't know. If they have limit switches it might be possible.
One question I would like to ask is what software did you use for the animation on your web page? That "flythrough" of your virtual home theater was really great!
Mario, I found the thread. Take a look at this and see if it helps:
I guess I'm not too concerned about stopping it before it's limit.
Here's an email clip from Craig Colvin who explains what is needed and how to do it. I also spoke with someone at Stewart who said it is very doable:
The X10 module you want to use is called a Universal Module. Here is a link
to a description http://www.hometech.com/modules/modulesb.html#special
You would wire it so that the +12v used to control the Stewart screen goes
thru the contacts on the Universal Module. The Universal Module would be
assigned an X10 address (let's say B1 for example), you would then send a
X10 command B1 ON to lower the screen or B1 OFF to raise the screen. You
would have another Universal Module assigned to address B2 to control the
Electric Mask. The command B2 ON would lower the mask and B2 OFF would raise the mask.
-----end of email
I'll be ordering the modules soon.
As far as the animation on my site, I used Lightwave 3D from http://www.newtek.com
It's a high-end modeling and animation software costing around $2400. They do offer a lower end version entitled Inspire 3D.
Hey again Mario. I think we may have posted our last responses at the same time. Did you happen to look at the thread above? After looking at the universal modules it appears to me that the universal module is the x10 device as well as the relay in one....correct? So does this simply mean all you have to do is connect the two power leads (one for powering the screen down and one for powering the screen up) to the universal module itself and then basically your done? Boy that would be nice if that were the case. Hmmm, I wonder what to do with common and ground in this case. Anyway, I think that leviton and x10 might be the same product and I saw that at the following web site the x10 universal module was a bit cheaper (only by a few dollars though):
Is there any reason we would want to use leviton here instead of x10? They appear to be the same to me.
[This message has been edited by JP (edited 03-20-2001).]
I'm not expert on this, but this is how I understand it.
X10 is just the technology used to send the proper signal - Leviton is the name of the manufacturer. There are a couple other manufacturers in this instance. I don't think there is a difference between the two modules aside from the name. You may be paying a little more for the Leviton because of the name. You may spring for more just to give you a certain level of comfort.
As far as hooking them up, it's hard for me to say at this point. I don't have either the screen or the modules in hand. I'm hoping I'll just be able to give it to my electrician and he'll know what to do with it.
I would recommend calling Stewart and I bet they would help walk you through it. It would be nice if someone had a photo a diagram showing how the entire process is wired.
This is a quick and inexpensive fix ($70) over buying the other IR remotes, etc.
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