DaLite Model B Owners: What screws did you use to mount your screens to the wall? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 08-30-2001, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I just took delivery of my Model B screen. Since I'm a moron when it comes to tools, I figure I would ask what kind of screws or nails you guys used to mount your screens to the wall? I figure all I need is two screws and a screwdriver, right? Thanks!
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post #2 of 27 Old 08-30-2001, 07:08 PM
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I would suggest 5/8" X 3" Lag Bolts and secure these into a wood stud....NOT sheetrock!

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post #3 of 27 Old 08-31-2001, 05:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Why not sheet rock? How can I tell if my apartment wall is made out of sheet rock? Sorry, but I'm an idiot when it comes to home improvement.
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post #4 of 27 Old 08-31-2001, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Reading-up on some other posts, I think my best course of action is to use a stud detector and then mount the screen to the studs. However, can I just use nails and then hang the screen on the nails? I'm looking for something easy to install (e.g., hammer and nails). Thanks!
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post #5 of 27 Old 08-31-2001, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Jim,

That sounds like a good idea. I think I'll copy you. =) A few questions...

1) Does Home Depot sell firring strips? Do they sell white firring strips?

2) Do firring strips come in 1/2"x2" sizes? I have only seen 1"x2" sizes.

3) In your second point, you meant the back of the screen, right?

4) Where did you buy your stud detector at? For how much (if you don't mind me asking)?

Thanks!


[This message has been edited by Don Black (edited 08-31-2001).]
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post #6 of 27 Old 08-31-2001, 04:06 PM
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Hi Don,

I haven't been down to Home Depot yet to pick up the wood, since I'm waiting for the stud detector to come. I ordered the stud detector from Smarthome.com. I don't know why I just didn't buy it at Home Depot... http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/frown.gif You can see the price on smarthome's web site. I imagine what with shipping I could have gotten it cheaper from Home Depot anyway.

The last project like this I did, I borrowed my friend's detector.

I'm assuming I'll be able to find the type of wood strip I'm looking for. I don't think the look is all that crucial, since it will basically be hidden behind the casing of the screen. You could certainly paint it if you wanted to.

Referring to step 3) I just mean that I will attach the strip to the wall by drilling screws directly through the wood of the strip, through the drywall, and into the studs.

I'll end up with a horizontal wood strip at the proper height, and properly aligned horizontally. It will already have the screw heads protruding out so that I should be able to easily just hang the screen onto them.


[This message has been edited by Jim Ferguson (edited 08-31-2001).]
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post #7 of 27 Old 08-31-2001, 04:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Jim. So, do you plan on using two screws total or four? What I mean is, do you plan on using the same screws that hold the firring strip to the wall to hold your screen up as well?

Any recommendations on the type of screws I should get (e.g., names, sizes)? I plan on trying this project this weekend. Since I rent my place, I have a marginal room for error! Thanks again!
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post #8 of 27 Old 08-31-2001, 08:28 PM
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Hi guys I mounted my model B from the ceiling. I used large eye hooks gold color decorator chain and screw type locking oring things, all gotten at Home Depot. What I like about the chain is I can move the screen up and down if needed.
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post #9 of 27 Old 08-31-2001, 09:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Mike,

So basically, you just screwed two hooks into the ceiling and hung two chains? Are the hooks screwed into the ceiling studs? Got any pictures? Thanks!
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post #10 of 27 Old 08-31-2001, 10:07 PM
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This is my plan. The first plan did not work out http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/frown.gif

1) obtain a 1/2" by 2" wood firring strip, 6' wide (or just wide enough for your screen.)

2) use two screws into the firring strip matching the slotted holes in the back of the projector. Test the fit while the screen is still on the floor or table.

3) attach the firring strip to the wall by screwing through the strip directly into the studs (use a stud finder to locate)

4) then hang the screen attaching to the two screws which are already on the firring strip.

I'm still waiting for my stud finder to arrive. For my first attempt I just used molly bolts directly through the drywall. It was too difficult to try to attach the screen to the bolts on the wall, plus it wasn't stable enough. Plus now I have a couple of nasty holes in the drywall I need to patch http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/frown.gif

[This message has been edited by Jim Ferguson (edited 08-31-2001).]
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post #11 of 27 Old 09-01-2001, 12:06 PM
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Don,

Two screws to mount the strip to the studs in the wall. I'd guess about 2" long should be enough. I'll predrill the holes.

Two short screws to attach to the strip to hang the screen from. The heads just need to protrude 1'8" or so from the strip so the notches in the screen holes can slip over them. They will be very short, like 3/4ths" depending on the thickness of the strip. There's no need for these screws to go through the strip and into the wall.

I considered hanging from the ceiling, but again I'd want the hooks for the chain to hit the joists in the ceiling. So there would be no guarantee that any two joists would be aligned such that hanging the screen from them would be in the right position.
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post #12 of 27 Old 09-02-2001, 05:44 AM
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I basically did what Jim describes but I used a larger hunk of wood attached to the wall. It gives me something to attach my masking system pulleys to...

Follow the pictures link in my signature to see snapshots.

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post #13 of 27 Old 09-02-2001, 07:25 AM
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Don,
Yes, the eye hooks are screwed into the ceiling studs. In the same isle at HD that the hooks are located are small oval rings that open and screw closed on one side that i used to connect the chain to the eye hooks and the rings on the screen. Sorry don't have any pics. It is very easy to do, took about 15 minutes.
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post #14 of 27 Old 09-02-2001, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys.

Mike: How did you handle it so that the width of the screen matched the availability of two ceiling studs so that a stud was directly above the end of each side of the screen? Did you luck out? Or do your chains go at an angle instead of straight down? If they go at an angle, how do you manage to keep the screen evenly level w/o a slant to one side?

I really like your setup the best since it seems the easiest and least damaging to the building (I rent). Thanks again!
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post #15 of 27 Old 09-02-2001, 07:30 PM
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Don,
I'm not real handy doing this kind of thing so I had afriend who is come over and help me. He found the studs we needed to use in less than 2 minutes. Measured out from the back wall and placed the eye hooks. There is ever a very slight angle, you cann't see it unless you really look for it. The screen is level and you can make adjustments to hieght and level with it. Also level adjs. with the eye hooks. I have the 52x92 model B screen, it seems that this one was just the right fit to the studs.
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post #16 of 27 Old 09-02-2001, 07:37 PM
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I mounted mine using two hooks, screwed directly into the ceiling joist (through the drywall). My joists run parallel, not perpendicular, to the screen, so I just picked the joist that was closest to my preferred screen position and spaced the hooks so my screen was centered. I mounted my PJ the appropriate distance back, based on where the screen ended up.

Recognize that these things are not that heavy - I think you could probably mount this using a couple of drywall anchors, without hitting a joist. Obviously, a joist is the best, but check the weight ratings for some of the anchors at Home Depot. You definitely do NOT need 3" lag bolts...

Best of luck -Chris
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post #17 of 27 Old 09-02-2001, 08:13 PM
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Yea, the eye hooks I used weren't very large and the chain was only the gold colored decorator chain. You don't need to go over board on the hanging materials.
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post #18 of 27 Old 09-02-2001, 09:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Hmmm. It sounds like you guys were lucky when it came to mounting. In Chris' case, he had a joint/stud that ran parralel and not perpendicular. In Mike case, it seems like the studs just matched the width (92") of the screen perfectly.

Does anyone have an recommendations on what to do if the studs/joints don't line up with the edges of the screen? For example, what happens if the screen overshoots a stud on each side by 2 inches? Since the screws need to attach to each end of the screen, there would be no way to mount the screen directly to the wall (unless you used another piece of wood that attaches to the studs).

Maybe I'm missing something? I'm really an idiot when it comes to construction so someone please straighten me out. =) Thanks!
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post #19 of 27 Old 09-03-2001, 07:11 AM
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That sounds about right Don. If the studs don't line up close enough I would have mounted a piece of wood to the studs and the screen to it.
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post #20 of 27 Old 09-03-2001, 08:14 AM
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Right. Check out the pictures link in my signature. You'll see that the screen isn't centered on the mounting board. I mounted the board to the studs and then the screen to the board.

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post #21 of 27 Old 09-03-2001, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Tom,

Thanks for the pics. They were very helpful. It looks like you only used 4 screws to attach your 1x8 to the studs. What kinds of screws did you use for that? Or were they nails?

Also what kind of screws did you use to mount the screen to the 1x8? Or, again, were they nails?

With your help, I'll mount my screen yet! =)
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post #22 of 27 Old 09-04-2001, 08:53 AM
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The screws attaching the 1x8 to the wall are something like 2.5" sheetrock screws (whatever I had lying around the garage.) I used 6 screws arranged something like this:
Code:
+-------------------------------------------+
|  *            *             *          *  |
|  *                                     *  |
+-------------------------------------------+
The screws that hold the screen to the pine are probably 1 to 1.5" wood screws.

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[This message has been edited by tlastrange (edited 09-04-2001).]

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post #23 of 27 Old 09-04-2001, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks again Tom. Very descriptive. Do you have any recommendations on types of screws that do little damage to the wall? I basically want to be able to take down the board in 2 years and spackle over the screw holes.

Cheers,

Don
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post #24 of 27 Old 09-05-2001, 06:57 AM
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I'd vote for sheetrock screws. They're pretty thin.

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post #25 of 27 Old 09-08-2001, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I did it. Couldn't have done it without you guys. Thanks again for all of your help. Now, let's hope the thing doesn't come crashing to the ground... =)


http://www.danielswartz.com/ht/screen1.jpg

http://www.danielswartz.com/ht/screen2.jpg

http://www.danielswartz.com/ht/screen3.jpg
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post #26 of 27 Old 09-08-2001, 06:37 PM
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Congratulations!

Are those stray holes in the second picture? http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif

BTW, in the second picture, it looks like you can screw the mounting screw further into the board. That should make it more secure.

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post #27 of 27 Old 09-09-2001, 01:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Tom,

Those dots are pencil marks of where the next joists are in the wall. As for the 2 mounting screws, right now, they are screwed in just far enough so that they don't dig into the drywall (just through the firring rod). If stability becomes a problem, I'll drill them all the way through. Hopefully, it will stay up w/o a hitch. Thanks again!
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