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#1 ·
After critically looking at these screens for over 5 days and taking over 200 pictures I must say this was one hard review. There are so many variables, they cannot all be covered here. In the end, it is important to try to achieve the greatest benefit for the environment or viewing you want to achieve. This review will focus on 5 high power screens surfaces and will include 3 lower power for reference only. The Lumenstar, which I was originally told was 5.8 gain was to be included in the high gain review, but did not turn out to be so. I would estimate it to be .58 gain, eliminating it from much comment. Also, I am not a professional reviewer. This review is for fun and therefore full of my observations and opinions. I did not use a Photometer to measure the gain, and I will try to present all information in understandable terms. My Camera is also not perfect or calibrated for color accuracy, however, all pictures are untouched and were taken from the same setting (not auto). Therefore you can use all pictures as references against themselves. I used 5 different lighting levels and pictures from 0 to 50 degrees off center. Three different ambient lighting sources were used(daylight, fluorescent and incandescent), and five different lighting levels. Virtually all pictures were taken in very tough(high) ambient lighting conditions to really put these products through the paces. I will try to be described when able. Now for the screens in order of brightness

High Power Screens


Vutec Silverstar - 9.5 Gain

Vutec Silverstar - 6.0 Gain

Da-Lite High Power - 2.8 Gain

Stewart Ultramatte - 2.75 Gain

Da-Lite Glass Beaded - 2.5 Gain

Lower Power Screens


Stewart Retro Grey - 1.6 Gain

Da-Lite Cinema Vision - 1.3 Gain see update

Stewart Firehawk - 1.3 Gain

Why Review High Power Screens? Well, of course I'm trying to solve a problem. I do not like watching TV and sporting events in dark conditions that are necessary for front projection. Movies in darker conditions are ok, but there is nothing lamer than inviting some friends over to watch the Superbowl in the dark.


So how can I solve this problem? Find some magical screen with so much gain that it sheds all ambient light yet at the same time directs all projected light directly to all viewing areas. Hahahahahah. See, this review has already made me gone mad! Yes, I have come to the realization yet again you cannot cheat the physics!

The problem: I have an unusually large seating arrangement with viewing angles from some seating positions exceeding 50 degrees from the light source on one side of the screen and less than 15 degrees on the other side. If you have started thinking about this now you probably have figured out you need to consider the projection angles and type of screen.


How will the light reflect? This will determine what you should be seeing, and if certain viewing cones will allow for a consistent image. Before you jump to any conclusions you also have to consider "Net effect" based on the screen's viewing cone, projection angles and where you are sitting.


Types of Screens There are basically two types of screens.

Retro-reflective This is like a stop sign and other traffic related reflecting devices. The light is reflected back toward the source. The following screens in this review I found to have these properties were:


Da-Lite Hi Power, Da- Lite Glass Bead, and the Stewart Retro Grey (experimental)

Angular reflective This is like a ping pong table. The light is reflected along the trajectory of the reflection much like the ping pong ball. The following screens in this review I found to have these properties were:


Vutec Silverstar 9.5, Vutec Silverstar 6.0, Stewart Ultramatte (somewhat)


And I'm going to add a third property which is exhibited in standard uncoated white vinyl/pvc tensionable screen material which is illumination. Although it is still angular in nature, it diffuses the light so well that no clear direction or change in gain is noticeable from any angle. More later

My Home Theater and what screen might be best? Because I'm trying to achieve high gain WITH a wide viewing stage and I'm thinking ANGULAR might be best. The projector being used is a JVC G1000 (D-ila), producing approximately 700 true lumens right now. It is "ceiling mounted" and aligned with the top of the screen. Center couch seating is 18' from screen, projector is 26' from screen. Screen is 10' wide 16:9 aspect ratio.


Background screen is the Da-Lite Cinema Vision 1.3 (white stretchable vinyl/pvc) see update




Here's an example of my set up and the projection angles in degrees. They are only estimates! The numbers are slightly high because my projector is actually farther back than the seating distances measured. This is of course exacerbated as the estimated angles get higher.


It should become obvious that at some viewing angles the projection angle will exceed the limitations of what even some Angular Reflective screens can do. I haven't really considered retro-reflective screens yet, because only the center couch would benefit from the higher gains since the light comes back toward the source.


Can you still get consistency across the screen from these viewing angles with an angular or retro-reflective screen? Well, I haven't cut my samples up yet to determine this by placing them throughout the screen and testing. I wish I just had full screen versions for more accurate evaluation. Because of this, I will also not be able to comment on hot spotting.


I think you can probably tell from the middle couch the reflection angle really never exceeds ~15 degrees from the light source(except on the far side if on one side of the couch). From the side couches though, angles from the projected light source can exceed 50 degrees! Retro-reflective is definitely not an option if I want the gain from all seating positions.

What's Gain? Gain is the amount of light that is reflected back from the screen surface. A standard of 1 gain is measured with a photometer as light is reflected off a piece of magnesium carbonate. As the gain goes up more light is reflected. As you reflect light you are not creating light, just reflecting it. So, as the gain goes up all you are really doing is reflecting more of the light directionally, like back toward the viewer. Since you cannot cheat the physics the more light you send back toward the viewer, the less gets reflected off to the side, thus a smaller viewing cone.


The only thing you can really change in this equation is how efficiently you can reflect it back. The Vutec Silverstar has managed to take this to the most efficient levels from what I can see. Without hot spotting? I can't tell with just this small sample.


What's hot spotting? The inability of the screen surface to diffuse the light consistently across the screen. For instance a regular mirror would be very efficient for reflection, but horrible for hot spotting. In fact, you would just see exactly where the light was coming from.


Finally, The Review.


Below are the samples I tested. This picture was taken with one third daylight conditions(estimate). The daylight coloration is very noticeable and none of the light was direct to the screen. The day was overcast. The ANSI checkerboard allows you to see and evaluate the whites, blacks, and real world contrast as they are both present at the same time.




My impressions and observations.

Vutec Silverstar 9.5 Wow, over the top bright. Probably too much for home theater, plus I don't think they are currently manufacturing it. They told me they are only manufacturing the 6.0. Although it looks more like ~5.0 gain as it is really hard to tell without use of an instrument, and at these levels who knows!? I can assure you it is the brightest screen you will likely ever see!


Construction is on solid thick foam board. Screen surface is silver in color and somewhat smooth .


Vutec Silverstar 6.0 Wow, very bright, could work for HT. At this brightness you WILL SEE compression artifacts in source material. Sorry, but when you get this bright, and you have a high end display device, you are going to see the flaws. Lower power screens do a good job of hiding these flaws. Until you see them you never even knew they were there! The Silverstars somehow have better viewing cones than the other high powers! I'd estimate this screen is more like 4 gain.


Construction is on solid thick foam board. Screen surface is silver in color and somewhat smooth.


Da-Lite High Power 2.8 Nice screen, My favorite of the high powers(even though the Silverstar is very intriguing). Appeared brighter and more consistent than the Ultramatte. I would estimate if the Ultramatte is a true 2.75 the High Power should be 2.9 or maybe even 3 gain.


Construction is retro-reflective emulsion on a heavy vinyl backing. Screen surface is white in color and medium texture.


Stewart Ultramatte 2.75 Good screen, The pearlescent emulsion is ok and has unique properties, but I think there is better emulsion available. The Ultramatte appeared to have much more angular reflective properties and the brightness consistency looked kind of spotty to me. This may be just an illusion or may not even be an issue with a full screen. I definitely waffled back an forth on whether liked it or not. In the end, it was pretty good for watching actual material.


Construction is angular reflective emulsion on a lighter vinyl backing. Screen surface is white/pearlescent in color and low texture. Material is stretchable.


Da-Lite Glass Beaded 2.5 Lowest viewing cone. Better technology exists today in my opinion. Overall, it did what it was supposed to do but the others just did it better. Cleaning this screen would be difficult at best.


Construction is retro-reflective emulsion on a heavy vinyl backing. Screen surface is white/crushed glass in color and high texture. The glass emulsion likes to fall off when the screen is manipulated.


Stewart Retro Grey 1.6 (super secret experimental pink screen) Yes, it's pink. I really liked this material. It's really a toss up between this and the Firehawk. I liked the colors on this material much better than the Firehawk plus it was brighter. Whites looked whiter, yet it managed to give the same blacks as the Firehawk.


Construction is mildly retro-reflective emulsion on a heavy vinyl backing. Screen surface is pink in color and medium texture. Build quality, durable.


Da-Lite Cinema Vision 1.3 My screen. By far, the best viewing angle. 180 degrees. All others have an emulsion so they suffer at certain viewing angles and have a viewing cone with drop off. My screen is stretched white vinyl/pvc with no coating. This allows light to be transmitted through the material. The white vinyl actually diffuses the light in such a way that all viewing angles look the same. I also liked the coloration of this screen the best.


Construction is light extra white vinyl. Screen surface is white in color and stretchable. UPDATE. I have received a new sample Da-Lite Cinema Vision and it now differs from my screen purchased in 2000. My screen... is a very white vinyl/pvc with a very small/no visable coating on it. Just a sheen(could just be surface properties), and some small almost non visable sparklies. Essentially extra white stretchable vinyl/pvc. Virtually identical to Draper 1300 and the Vutec Brite-White products that are also 1.3. For camparison, my screens white is definately brighter than say the Da-Lite's Da Mat vinyl/pvc at 1.0 gain. This material is a similar strechable vinyl just not as white. This New Cinema Vision does have a gain curve. I'm not sure why they would go with this opticle coating as IMHO it may not help the product.


Stewart Firehawk 1.3 Very similar to Cinema Vision for brightness but slightly better blacks. Much smaller viewing cone. Starts to drop very gradually after 20 degrees in brightness. I could not get used to the grey look beside the white screens. Colors to me just looked better on the white screens. This likely would not be an issue if others where not present.


Construction is mild reflective emulsion on a light, grey in color, vinyl backing. Screen surface is grey in color and light texture. Material is stretchable.


Lumenstar I originally was told this was a 5.8 gain screen. However, I think something was lost in the translation from Japan where it's manufactured. It appears to be a .58 gain screen. So I'm really not going to say much about it except that it is designed to shed ambient light. The lumens necessary to even bring it up to the 1.3 gain screen would be significant. To reach the foot lamberts of luminance of the higher gain screen levels well. I'm not sure this product will work for HT unless you have a 5000 lumen projector or more! The product itself is approximately 8-10 times what the others cost, and if you couple that with the cost of a very high lumen projector it is likely out of the range for price for anybody but the extremely wealthy. This product is likely not for Home Theater.


Construction is on solid backing board. Screen surface is black/dark grey with small grooves similar to an LP record. Appears to be a laminate with an outer grooved (fresnel type) surface, with a reflective backing, and a supporting backing board. Looks washable and only comes in panels that are 40 x 60? inches at the largest. Panels are pieced together to make larger displays.


What do the samples look like? Here is another picture in medium indirect florescent lighting levels. These lighting levels would allow you to read a newspaper with out problem, but are much lower than the higher lighting levels displayed later.




As you can see from the ANSI checkerboard pattern that the different gains are dramatic. Coloration from my camera is a little weird but not that far off really.


Although this isn't really very scientific (because not all angles are the same for each sample) I will show you a color sample at 0 through 50 degrees. Pictures are taken at 10-degree intervals. This is a really fun shot because you can see each material and how the look changes the intensity of the colors as it gets wider and wider angle. Just for fun.




Lets talk about viewing cones Now the viewing cones are for these products are dramatically different. The higher the gain, the more noticeable the drop off is. To do this experiment we will focus on the HIGH GAIN SCREENS which I will align in the middle of my screen as shown. This is so the degree measurements of the pictures at 0, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 are accurately represented. The Stewart Retro Grey and Firehawk will be included off to the right as shown. Of course, my screen the Da-Lite Cinema Vision is in the background.




This photo will give you an idea of where these samples are as we move on to the main experiment.


Viewing Angles, Different Lighting Levels, and Sources


The following pictures are screen shots taken on the above mentioned 10 degree increments. Four different lighting levels were used. Keep in mind my walls are painted sand/tan in color and the reflected lighting effects the pictures.

High Light Direct Incandescent This lighting is very bright. No where near Daylight conditions, but direct to the screen. Light is provided by 9 sixty watt incandescent flood lamps. Very bright, warm in color.





High Light Indirect Florescent This lighting is very bright. No where near Daylight conditions, but very bright even though not direct to screen. Light is provided by 9, four foot 40 watt fluorescent lamps. Very bright, cooler in color.





Medium Light Indirect Florescent This lighting is much dimmer. No where near higher lighting conditions, but bright enough to read and walk around the room comfortably. Mood lighting, dim yet navigable. Not direct to screen, light is bounced off ceiling from soffits. Light is provided by 4, four foot 40 watt fluorescent lamps. Mildly dim, cooler in color.





Low Light indirect Incandescent This lighting is very dim. Not direct to screen, only relected off walls. You could not read in this lighting. Excellent for watching movies in low lighting conditions as you can still see the walls. Light is provided by one 25 watt incandescent lamp in back of room. Very dim, warm in color.





Viewing Cones What did I see? Even though the pictures may not represent it, I did individually evaluate each sample and this is what I found for viewing cones and drop off. Of course different colors act differently. My observations for viewing cone were done using only a white and grey projected image.


Silverstar 9.5 Starts to noticeably drop off at 14-15 degrees then consistently declines until it is neutral (1 gain) at 30 degrees. Continues to decline consistently at the same rate out to the wider angles.

Silverstar 6.0 Starts to noticeably drop off at 14-15 degrees then consistently declines until it is neutral (1 gain) at 30 degrees. Continues to decline consistently at the same rate out to the wider angles.

High Power Starts to noticeably drop off at 10 degrees then consistently declines until it is neutral (1 gain) at 20 degrees, where it stays at the same rate (1 gain) out to the wider angles.

Ultramatte Starts to noticeably drop off at 10 degrees then consistently declines until it is neutral (1 gain) at 20 degrees, where it stays at the same rate (1 gain) out to the wider angles.

Glass Bead Starts to noticeably drop off at 7 degrees then consistently declines until it is neutral (1 gain) at 12 degrees, where it stays at the same rate (1 gain) out to the wider angles.

Retro Grey Slowly drops off and at 10 degrees is then neutral (1 gain), then continues to decline consistently at same rate out to the wider angles.

Firehawk Slowly drops off and at 10 degrees is then neutral (1 gain), then continues to decline consistently at same rate out to the wider angles.

Cinema Vision No noticeable decline in gain at any angle. 1.3 gain.see update


CONCLUSIONS


Well, I haven't found the magical screen that I have been looking for (for my circumstances. Unlimited viewing angles and higher gain). I guess I will have to stick with my Cinema Vision for the wide angles and balance a brighter projector with ambient lighting. I may have to resort to Designing a rear projection set up.

Some of the screen materials were very interesting. Both the Vutec 6.0 and the Da-Lite High Power really got my curiosity up. I may try these surfaces in the future for fun to really see how the full screen looks. The colors at these higher levels are so vibrant. If the High Power had 10 degree wider viewing angle I would buy it today. Unfortunately you can't cheat the physics and no screen is perfect. What I really need is a screen that doesn't just reflect, but illuminates as it defuses the light. Is it possible? Only time will tell.


Thank you Don Stewart for personally sending me the samples, and to JimmyR for overnighting me the Vutec 6.0 sample.


I wish the Draper 2500 sample would have come but it was a no-show. I would have liked to do a longer review but time and other issues intervened. I'll monitor for questions.
 
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#152 ·
I got the highpower on suggestions... haven't regreted it yet!... I wish they made them larger in fact! 106" was the max for the manual contour.


Possible downsides... Sitting outside 10-15 degrees of the center you notice a light drop, to about 1:1, but stays pretty steady after that. With one row of seating at ~13ft it gives about 4 people max full brightness viewing if squeezed in.


Is it bright? I have an AE700 and when car lights flash into the camera from a movie I flinch(Ronin comes to mind)



It's so britght the damn bugs congregate on it and ruin it if you don't brush them off before rolling it up!
 
#154 ·
Ok, these posts are getting silly



I'm thinking I should get a Suburban or Hummer. Do you think I should get a Corvette?
 
#155 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tryg /forum/post/0


Ok, these posts are getting silly



I'm thinking I should get a Suburban or Hummer. Do you think I should get a Corvette?

I think the FJ Cruiser would be a good choice...


Actually, your problem is that you have done so much testing and research that you are pretty much the screen guru here. The problem of fame...



I've tried sorting through a lot of the info and it is a bit overwhelming. Thing is with a screen, it's one of those purchases that you will make not very often. So we want to get it right. Most people don't have the luxury of changing screens often. Plus, since they're not returnable that adds another variable that mucks up the process. Any companies out there give you a two week trial period? Shoot, they let you test drive a car, why not a screen?
 
#157 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ginmtb /forum/post/0


I think the FJ

Actually, your problem is that you have done so much testing and research that you are pretty much the screen guru here. The problem of fame...

Actually the problem goes something like this. I write 2 + 2 = 4. Then I get 10 PMs a day that say "I read your write up.... does 2 + 2 = 4?"



I love to help people, but please help me by READING the review (and comments) then ask a question that is specific to your situation.


fsamuell I will PM my cell # if you would like to talk to me about your situation. Otherwise my standard answer applies


buy the High Power
 
#158 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by HTAVE /forum/post/0


I got the highpower on suggestions... haven't regreted it yet!... I wish they made them larger in fact! 106" was the max for the manual contour.


Possible downsides... Sitting outside 10-15 degrees of the center you notice a light drop, to about 1:1, but stays pretty steady after that. With one row of seating at ~13ft it gives about 4 people max full brightness viewing if squeezed in.


Is it bright? I have an AE700 and when car lights flash into the camera from a movie I flinch(Ronin comes to mind)



It's so britght the damn bugs congregate on it and ruin it if you don't brush them off before rolling it up!

I have not noticed that dramatic of a drop off, in fact I have been surprised at how little the brighness changes as you move around the room. AE900 wall mounted about 25% below the top of the screen. Biggest model c I could get 139" wide, room is 16x22, two rows of seating plus a few bean bags for the kids.


thanks for the screen review!


Dave
 
#159 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by fsamuell /forum/post/0


Tryg

I've been bouncing between a HP and 2500, Do you think the silverstar would be a better option if so where do I purchase it from???


Mitsubishi HC 3000

ceiling mount 7'

mounted 14 feet back

seating at 12 and 17'


would like a 119" diagonal screen


Thanks! Frank

I'm not considering the Silverstar, however, my set-up will be very similar and I have narrowed my choices to the HP and 2500 since I will be dealing with a moderate amount of ambient light. Here are the planned details:


Panasonic AX100

Ceiling mount 7' (assume lens will be at about 6'6")

Mounted 11 feet back

Main seating at 13 feet, some on floor at 9ft and others standing around pool table and bar at 15 - 25 feet.

Room width is 13 feet (in back of room it opens to the sides, think of a T shape with the screen at the bottom of the T).

Considering a 92inch screen - 106 inch screen.


I haven't found a lot on the M2500, would it be better than the HP for the different viewing heights or would it hotspot too much with the projector so close?
 
#160 ·
I have the 106" M2500. Ceiling mounted IN76, and I like it a lot. I can get the room real dark, painted dark red walls, but I also like to watch games, etc.. with the sconces on, so I can see the wings when I am eating. It's bright enough with the lights rom the side on full, and no I don't see any hot spotting. Too be honest I do want it just a little brighter and my plan is to upgrade to a Silverstar probably in a year or so.


Seriously everyone who has seen it, likes it a lot, and noone has complained about RB, hotspots, etc.... And to be honest I look for them and don't see it.
 
#161 ·
dont expect much more brightness from the Silverstar
 
#162 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by sipester /forum/post/0


I'm not considering the Silverstar, however, my set-up will be very similar and I have narrowed my choices to the HP and 2500 since I will be dealing with a moderate amount of ambient light. Here are the planned details:


Panasonic AX100

Ceiling mount 7' (assume lens will be at about 6'6")

Mounted 11 feet back

Main seating at 13 feet, some on floor at 9ft and others standing around pool table and bar at 15 - 25 feet.

Room width is 13 feet (in back of room it opens to the sides, think of a T shape with the screen at the bottom of the T).

Considering a 92inch screen - 106 inch screen.


I haven't found a lot on the M2500, would it be better than the HP for the different viewing heights or would it hotspot too much with the projector so close?


The AX100 mounted only 11ft back would give you a brite enough image even on a black wall!
Holy cow bra! (Not really a black wall, but you know what I mean, right?) That projector is a monster! Plenty of lumens. May I suggest looking into improving the black levels rather than the gain?


I'm testing the 2500 on my AE900U as we speak. I haven't ruled out the 2500 yet, but we'll see. It doesnt help with black levels one bit. But it's colors and brightness uniformity are great!


I've also tested the HP, which is too brite, causing it not to be uniform enough. That's projecting from 14ft back with a 100" image. The problem with high gain screens is that they are plenty brite at 0deg but move out to the end of the couch and they're too dim!


Perhaps I'm more interested in briteness uniformity than most? I have a wide viewing area and most high gain screens just dont work for me. We really need that magic physics-defying screen to hit the market sometime soon



So I ended up canning the gain idea after many hours of testing many samples, and going to every HT store I could find many times over.


My aim changed to darkening the blacks, without giving up too much briteness, or uniformity. Which has proved to be just as difficult as the initial objective of this review!
 
#163 ·
Do any of you folks have experience with the Goo CRT White?


It is supposed to be a 1.8 gain, but during Evans (PJC) test he only measured it at 1.0, but with perfect color reproduction.


I also am trying to get as large a screen as possible with the AX100, while dealing with some ambient light as I will be doing it in a "Great Room."
 
#164 ·
I have waded through this thread and naturally thank all contributors - that is a way of saying - if i ask a dumb question I should know the answer to now, I apologise in adance..!


The proposed room set-up: 15' wide, PJ Throw 15', viewing in the 15' to 18' distance (room 19' long) - viewing width max 10' - PJ easy height to mount would be 6' 6" in an 8' high room.


Proposed PJ is the new JVC HD D-ILA HD1 or perhaps the Pearl.


Preferred screen width is 12'

All surfaces of room satin beige.


Screen of preference (havent checked price yet..) from recommendation here is the DaLite HP - however is max width really only 106"?!


I can presumably set PJ to fire up at target wall to set screen height at say 6" below ceiling (6" above floor)



I am looking for a punchy, refreshing image more in line with LCD displays than Plasma / traditional front mount PJs - ie I am happy to 'sacrafice' the full Cinematic effect - I am not a 'full black junky' and would be happier to be stunned by vibrant refreshing images with detail in dark areas than go on a 'black-hole' quest.


I am not sure what Fl this equates to - does 20 sound about right?


If so with say 650 Lumens available from PJ for best part of 1st year (then replace bulb) and a 87 sq ft screen, I have a theoretical target of 1740 adjusted lumens. - ie a 2.7 gain in screen brightness - am I right? - If so then the DaLite @ 2.8 would appear to fit the bill perfectly (still not checked price..)


So, if i am correct so far, the only remaining concern is the angle of incidence / reflection from PJ to a central viewer. - Even if we assume viewer is directly under PJ (prefer 3' further back) - ie viewer is 3' 6" to 4' lower than lense, and nearly 1/2 way up screen height (mid screen ht is 4') - dont know how to do diagrams on here so hope you can see where i am going.



Now then, using an approx scaled diagram and no ability or knowledge retained on logs and in absence of protractor I calculate that, vertically, the bottom of the screen is viewed 15 degrees below PJ line of incidence (halfway toward the line of reflection) - whereas the top of the screen is viewed 12 deg below PJ line of incidence (in the wrong swing from the PJ line of reflection)....



Sooo, now I am not too sure if I should worry about an Angular Reflective or regular screen (both 2.8 gain)...!! -- It would seem to me, the layman that I am vertically off axis by a max of some 15 dgrees at the bottom and that the bottom is an error that an Angular reflective would address whereas the top is negative Reflective - if you see what I mean!


If you feel that this set up is outside performance envelope of a reasonable cost screen to give excellent performance, then i guess I could drop PJ a foot without much hassle (I intend sliding it on rails to side of room into a wall cabinett for stowing) - just dont want it whining away a foot above your head in height and 3 ft in front!


Have i grasped all this theory correctly, am I really creating a problem of 15 degrees or do people simply measure from mid screen to PJ and to eye - I cant help but think that a 10 degree off axis screen will be a problem for the lower 1/3rd of my screen based on my interpretation of these formulae


This would appear to be a classic set-up other than the fact that i am looking for a vibrant image over 12' width with c 650 Lumens PJ


Clearly reducing to a 10' wide screen would mean that I only require a gain of 1.7 - presumably I could get well over 15 degrees deviation here (not re-drawn smaller screen in this room set-up to see how angles change mind) - though I couldnt see it in reviews


Am I screwing the theory somewhere?!
 
#165 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by HTAVE /forum/post/0


It's so britght the damn bugs congregate on it and ruin it if you don't brush them off before rolling it up!

I had to put a bug zapper behind my HP because it is so bright that the flys especially would sometimes fly back and forth between the screen and the projector.


Apparently they were trying to decide which was best for them. The bug zapper (they love UV as the best of all lights) solved the problem and I seldom have to worry about flattening a bug when I roll up the screen.
 
#166 ·
I had the same problem for awhile, small gnats sneaking into the house with smokers would rest on the screen then be rolled up after the lights are thrown on and the dalite model c is rolled up :/
 
#167 ·
Never roll it up!
 
#168 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tryg /forum/post/0


Never roll it up!

Why?


Hey Tryg, I've seen some discussion going back and forth about the High-Power's angle of decreasing reflection in the vertical plane...did you observe roughly the same dropoff at 10 degrees off vertical axis and 10 degrees off horizontal axis? I would think it would drop off more horizontally than vertically...actually, I would just hope that. I'm thinking of mounting a pj 9 ft up (5 ft. above my head), 20 ft. back and sitting at 12 feet from the 106" screen...would the light dropoff of the High-Power in this scenario be a deal breaker?
 
#169 ·
I have the 139 inch wide model c high power. the room is approximately 17 feet wide and 23 feet deep, two rows of raised seating. The AE-900 is mounted 6 inches below the top of the screen at the back of the room. I have recently raised it to this position from much lower on the wall and I have not noticed any drop off in brightness, and the image is very bright. I bought my screen through Jason at AVS. Be sure to order the case in black, then hang the HP and enjoy.


Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Granger /forum/post/0


I have waded through this thread and naturally thank all contributors - that is a way of saying - if i ask a dumb question I should know the answer to now, I apologise in adance..!


The proposed room set-up: 15' wide, PJ Throw 15', viewing in the 15' to 18' distance (room 19' long) - viewing width max 10' - PJ easy height to mount would be 6' 6" in an 8' high room.


Proposed PJ is the new JVC HD D-ILA HD1 or perhaps the Pearl.


Preferred screen width is 12'

All surfaces of room satin beige.


Screen of preference (havent checked price yet..) from recommendation here is the DaLite HP - however is max width really only 106"?!


I can presumably set PJ to fire up at target wall to set screen height at say 6" below ceiling (6" above floor)



I am looking for a punchy, refreshing image more in line with LCD displays than Plasma / traditional front mount PJs - ie I am happy to 'sacrafice' the full Cinematic effect - I am not a 'full black junky' and would be happier to be stunned by vibrant refreshing images with detail in dark areas than go on a 'black-hole' quest.


I am not sure what Fl this equates to - does 20 sound about right?


If so with say 650 Lumens available from PJ for best part of 1st year (then replace bulb) and a 87 sq ft screen, I have a theoretical target of 1740 adjusted lumens. - ie a 2.7 gain in screen brightness - am I right? - If so then the DaLite @ 2.8 would appear to fit the bill perfectly (still not checked price..)


So, if i am correct so far, the only remaining concern is the angle of incidence / reflection from PJ to a central viewer. - Even if we assume viewer is directly under PJ (prefer 3' further back) - ie viewer is 3' 6" to 4' lower than lense, and nearly 1/2 way up screen height (mid screen ht is 4') - dont know how to do diagrams on here so hope you can see where i am going.



Now then, using an approx scaled diagram and no ability or knowledge retained on logs and in absence of protractor I calculate that, vertically, the bottom of the screen is viewed 15 degrees below PJ line of incidence (halfway toward the line of reflection) - whereas the top of the screen is viewed 12 deg below PJ line of incidence (in the wrong swing from the PJ line of reflection)....



Sooo, now I am not too sure if I should worry about an Angular Reflective or regular screen (both 2.8 gain)...!! -- It would seem to me, the layman that I am vertically off axis by a max of some 15 dgrees at the bottom and that the bottom is an error that an Angular reflective would address whereas the top is negative Reflective - if you see what I mean!


If you feel that this set up is outside performance envelope of a reasonable cost screen to give excellent performance, then i guess I could drop PJ a foot without much hassle (I intend sliding it on rails to side of room into a wall cabinett for stowing) - just dont want it whining away a foot above your head in height and 3 ft in front!


Have i grasped all this theory correctly, am I really creating a problem of 15 degrees or do people simply measure from mid screen to PJ and to eye - I cant help but think that a 10 degree off axis screen will be a problem for the lower 1/3rd of my screen based on my interpretation of these formulae


This would appear to be a classic set-up other than the fact that i am looking for a vibrant image over 12' width with c 650 Lumens PJ


Clearly reducing to a 10' wide screen would mean that I only require a gain of 1.7 - presumably I could get well over 15 degrees deviation here (not re-drawn smaller screen in this room set-up to see how angles change mind) - though I couldnt see it in reviews


Am I screwing the theory somewhere?!
 
#170 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb /forum/post/0


Why?


Hey Tryg, I've seen some discussion going back and forth about the High-Power's angle of decreasing reflection in the vertical plane...did you observe roughly the same dropoff at 10 degrees off vertical axis and 10 degrees off horizontal axis?


Yes its the same on both axis
 
#172 ·
Do we have a review of the DynaClear screen yet?
 
#173 ·
Tryg,


This is from awhile back but... wondering if you're contradicting yourself..? I'm trying to decide between the two screens so I'm wondering which one you give top honors.


You refer to "upgrading" from the SilverStar at the start of your post "HIGH POWER a Review! Part 1". However, years earlier you preferred the HP at the start of your post "White, Grey, or Silver - A Review!" post as stated below.


"Of course, then the High Power sheds ambient light better. This is definitely attributed to it’s obvious viewing cone and under the right conditions, like higher ambient light and watching sports, it would be an awesome product. For watching movies, I would definitely take the SilverStar. It felt like it had more depth and the screen tended to just disappear more. I’ve heard people say this same thing when going from a matte white screen to a grey screen. The SilverStar exhibits this same quality but at a gain of over 3. High gain, detail, and depth. It’s pretty awesome, and in many ways a stunning combination."
 
#175 ·
I just got off the phone with a local retailer that claimed that the Draper luma 2 glass beaded screen was *identical* to the high power.


Any word on whether this is the case as I couldn't find any confirmation online? I was also wondering if anyone around here has tried this ~2.8 gain screen.


Not that it matters much, as I can still get the HP here in Canada for about $100 cheaper than the draper glass beaded even though I am ordering from USA.
 
#176 ·
Very nice review!


One question, though...how can the high gain screens be viable with such low viewing angles, when SMPTE recommends a 30 degree viewing angle, and THX recommends a 36 degree viewing angle? It seems like you'll just end up with a screen that is bright in the middle, and dim to the sides.


Michael
 
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