The Official Stewart Film Screen thread. - Page 65 - AVS Forum
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post #1921 of 1928 Old 08-11-2014, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJG View Post
Stewart 4-Way Screenwall Elecrimask problem. The 2 vertical masking panels got extended over the rod about 3 feet longer so when in the fully retracted position they are still 3' of material from top to bottom, when the vertical panel is extended the mask goes 3' past the bottom of the screen.

Is it possible to just rotate the rod counterclockwise to adjust the panels. I am having a dickens of a time trying to adjust the limit stops through the little openings located on the left side of screen frame.

Any suggestions?
Hello LJG,
Thank you for being a long term Stewart Filmscreen Customer! We appreciate the business.

Does the fabric deploy too far at the bottom of the travel, as well as stopping short at the top?

If not then we only have to address the top stop. Of the two holes you have there, the up stop should be in the lower hole. Run the fabric down to the lower stop. Take a 5/32" tee handle hex wrench and insert it in the hole. Turning the limit switch counter clockwise will increase the travel, therefore allowing more material retraction up into the fascia. Turn that screw counterclockwise two full turns. Run the panel up, leaving your t-handle hex wrench in position. When the panel stops, you can keep creeping the limit upward, by continuing to turn counter clockwise.

Check the bottom limit too. The Somfy progressive limits always require a counter clockwise turn to increase motor travel in the direction you are adjusting.

If a satisfactory solution continues to elude you, call our factory Customer Service line at (800) 762-4999 extension 145. Good Luck!

Mark Robinson
Vice President of Technology
Stewart Filmscreen

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post #1922 of 1928 Old 08-11-2014, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m Robinson View Post
Hello Mr. Bagis,
First, Thank you very much for selecting Stewart Filmscreen for your display! We appreciate the business!

Here is what I would do.
Deploy the screen
Lift the batten on the end you wish to about an inch, or 30 millimeters.
The ferrule which anchors the side cord, is spring loaded. Push it gently down into the batten.
The hex-head bolt will emerge from the bottom of the batten. It's usually easy to move by hand, but if not, use a 5/16" wrench, or a pair of pliers to turn it.
Loosen that hex head about six full turns.
Allow the batten to drop to its normal position.

The side cord should be noticeably looser. If not, repeat the steps.
At the end of the process, you want the side cords to be just tight enough to hold the sides out in position, but no tighter.

If you need more assistance call (800)762-4999,and our Customer Service folks will walk you through it. If you are calling from an international location, use (310)784-5300. Extention 145.

Great, thanks for your quick response M Robinson. I have applied it and it works, no more worries for me!


BR//Bagis from Sweden

Last edited by Bagis; 08-11-2014 at 12:13 PM.
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post #1923 of 1928 Old 08-13-2014, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m Robinson View Post
Hello LJG,
Thank you for being a long term Stewart Filmscreen Customer! We appreciate the business.

Does the fabric deploy too far at the bottom of the travel, as well as stopping short at the top?

If not then we only have to address the top stop. Of the two holes you have there, the up stop should be in the lower hole. Run the fabric down to the lower stop. Take a 5/32" tee handle hex wrench and insert it in the hole. Turning the limit switch counter clockwise will increase the travel, therefore allowing more material retraction up into the fascia. Turn that screw counterclockwise two full turns. Run the panel up, leaving your t-handle hex wrench in position. When the panel stops, you can keep creeping the limit upward, by continuing to turn counter clockwise.

Check the bottom limit too. The Somfy progressive limits always require a counter clockwise turn to increase motor travel in the direction you are adjusting.

If a satisfactory solution continues to elude you, call our factory Customer Service line at (800) 762-4999 extension 145. Good Luck!
Unfortunately turning the limit switches did not increase or decrease the travel. I have call into tech support
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post #1924 of 1928 Old 08-18-2014, 09:04 AM
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Question Need an opinion on the projector placement for Firehawk G4

Appreciate an advise from Stewart owners or experts on the placement for JVC X-3 projector against Firehawk G4. I have a JVC X-3 that is sitting 12 feet away from the screen on the 27-inch tall coffee table about 10-inch to the right of the screen's center so I am using shift on it, my head is 39-inch from the floor. Screen that I need is 105". I keep reading that Firehawk will lose a lot of light output if I place it against my setup? I am trying to validate if this is the case with G4 as well.

Thank you!
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post #1925 of 1928 Old 08-28-2014, 07:20 AM
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Hey Guys,

do you know where I can buy a Quick Snap Wall Mount for my 100" Studio Tek 130 Luxus Deluxe screen ?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Regards

Denon AVP-A1HD with 3D upgrade, Denon POA-A1HD, Klipsch THX Ultra 2 7.2 speakers, Oppo BDP-103D, Toshiba HD-A35, Oppo DV-983H, Samsung Satellite Receiver, JVC DLA-RS6710, Stewart Screen 16/9 Studiotek 130 G3 100", Mac Mini as a media center, NAS Synology DS 1812+, Drobo Pro 800 storage unit, Sony...
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post #1926 of 1928 Old 08-28-2014, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutaleZEN View Post
Hey Guys,

do you know where I can buy a Quick Snap Wall Mount for my 100" Studio Tek 130 Luxus Deluxe screen ?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Regards

If you are in Bangkok, maybe it would be easier to fabricate something locally ?

Craig Peer, AV Science Sales. Direct Line - 585-671-2972
I'm available 8:30am - 4:30pm PST, Monday - Friday Email me at craig@avscience.com
http://shop.avscience.com/
Yes, we sell Home Theater gear right here at AVS !!
JVC, Sony, Epson, DPI, SV Sound, Martin Logan, RBH, Klipsch, and many more!
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post #1927 of 1928 Old 08-28-2014, 10:44 PM
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Hey Craig,

I already did, but frankly the job done is far from great, and my screen hang on a false wall, there is a false window at the back of my false wall that I have to unscrew to access the actual window that allow me to service the compressor for my air conditioner (yep, not a simple set up).

The thing is with the brackets that I have, it took me 1 or 2 hours to try to hang the screen ... kind of frustrating. I want the original Stewartfilm stuff that was designed by professionasl .... So I don't get aggravated when I want to service the air con compressor ...

I have an address in California, so not difficult to order stuff from the US.

Thanks again.

Regards

Denon AVP-A1HD with 3D upgrade, Denon POA-A1HD, Klipsch THX Ultra 2 7.2 speakers, Oppo BDP-103D, Toshiba HD-A35, Oppo DV-983H, Samsung Satellite Receiver, JVC DLA-RS6710, Stewart Screen 16/9 Studiotek 130 G3 100", Mac Mini as a media center, NAS Synology DS 1812+, Drobo Pro 800 storage unit, Sony...
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post #1928 of 1928 Old Yesterday, 10:30 AM
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A couple questions related my upcoming (in progress actually) room build.

Right now, what is spec'd by Dennis Erskine is an Electrivertimask with a Studiotek 130 microperf screen (132" wide 2:35)

1. Previously, everything I've read is that past 10-11' feet, you don't see the microperfs. However, in my build thread, a number of people have talked about seeing them far past 11', including talking about seeing them more like in the 15-17' range. Also, that on very light scenes of movies they are more visible than in dark scenes. So, what's the story on visibility. I have a sample coming, but as my room isn't constructed, I don't have a real accurate way have testing this. I'm leaning towards the Stewart, but don't want to get into a situation of seeing the perfs all the time and regretting it (my primary seating row will be between 12-13' (still a couple minor details left that will decide exactly how far from eyes to screen).

2. This will be an aperture mount install into a screen wall. There will be zero access behind the screen (such as to work on speakers) other than through the screen frame. I was assuming one of the advantages to the Stewart was being able to unsnap the screen (or part of it) to be able to get back to the speakers if I need to make any tweaks. Someone pointed out that this is not as easy as I seemed to think.

Anyway, any thoughts on either of my two points above would be appreciated.
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