The Official Stewart Film Screen thread. - Page 65 - AVS Forum
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post #1921 of 1947 Old 08-11-2014, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJG View Post
Stewart 4-Way Screenwall Elecrimask problem. The 2 vertical masking panels got extended over the rod about 3 feet longer so when in the fully retracted position they are still 3' of material from top to bottom, when the vertical panel is extended the mask goes 3' past the bottom of the screen.

Is it possible to just rotate the rod counterclockwise to adjust the panels. I am having a dickens of a time trying to adjust the limit stops through the little openings located on the left side of screen frame.

Any suggestions?
Hello LJG,
Thank you for being a long term Stewart Filmscreen Customer! We appreciate the business.

Does the fabric deploy too far at the bottom of the travel, as well as stopping short at the top?

If not then we only have to address the top stop. Of the two holes you have there, the up stop should be in the lower hole. Run the fabric down to the lower stop. Take a 5/32" tee handle hex wrench and insert it in the hole. Turning the limit switch counter clockwise will increase the travel, therefore allowing more material retraction up into the fascia. Turn that screw counterclockwise two full turns. Run the panel up, leaving your t-handle hex wrench in position. When the panel stops, you can keep creeping the limit upward, by continuing to turn counter clockwise.

Check the bottom limit too. The Somfy progressive limits always require a counter clockwise turn to increase motor travel in the direction you are adjusting.

If a satisfactory solution continues to elude you, call our factory Customer Service line at (800) 762-4999 extension 145. Good Luck!

Mark Robinson
Vice President of Technology
Stewart Filmscreen

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post #1922 of 1947 Old 08-11-2014, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m Robinson View Post
Hello Mr. Bagis,
First, Thank you very much for selecting Stewart Filmscreen for your display! We appreciate the business!

Here is what I would do.
Deploy the screen
Lift the batten on the end you wish to about an inch, or 30 millimeters.
The ferrule which anchors the side cord, is spring loaded. Push it gently down into the batten.
The hex-head bolt will emerge from the bottom of the batten. It's usually easy to move by hand, but if not, use a 5/16" wrench, or a pair of pliers to turn it.
Loosen that hex head about six full turns.
Allow the batten to drop to its normal position.

The side cord should be noticeably looser. If not, repeat the steps.
At the end of the process, you want the side cords to be just tight enough to hold the sides out in position, but no tighter.

If you need more assistance call (800)762-4999,and our Customer Service folks will walk you through it. If you are calling from an international location, use (310)784-5300. Extention 145.

Great, thanks for your quick response M Robinson. I have applied it and it works, no more worries for me!


BR//Bagis from Sweden

Last edited by Bagis; 08-11-2014 at 12:13 PM.
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post #1923 of 1947 Old 08-13-2014, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m Robinson View Post
Hello LJG,
Thank you for being a long term Stewart Filmscreen Customer! We appreciate the business.

Does the fabric deploy too far at the bottom of the travel, as well as stopping short at the top?

If not then we only have to address the top stop. Of the two holes you have there, the up stop should be in the lower hole. Run the fabric down to the lower stop. Take a 5/32" tee handle hex wrench and insert it in the hole. Turning the limit switch counter clockwise will increase the travel, therefore allowing more material retraction up into the fascia. Turn that screw counterclockwise two full turns. Run the panel up, leaving your t-handle hex wrench in position. When the panel stops, you can keep creeping the limit upward, by continuing to turn counter clockwise.

Check the bottom limit too. The Somfy progressive limits always require a counter clockwise turn to increase motor travel in the direction you are adjusting.

If a satisfactory solution continues to elude you, call our factory Customer Service line at (800) 762-4999 extension 145. Good Luck!
Unfortunately turning the limit switches did not increase or decrease the travel. I have call into tech support
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post #1924 of 1947 Old 08-18-2014, 09:04 AM
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Question Need an opinion on the projector placement for Firehawk G4

Appreciate an advise from Stewart owners or experts on the placement for JVC X-3 projector against Firehawk G4. I have a JVC X-3 that is sitting 12 feet away from the screen on the 27-inch tall coffee table about 10-inch to the right of the screen's center so I am using shift on it, my head is 39-inch from the floor. Screen that I need is 105". I keep reading that Firehawk will lose a lot of light output if I place it against my setup? I am trying to validate if this is the case with G4 as well.

Thank you!
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post #1925 of 1947 Old 08-28-2014, 07:20 AM
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Hey Guys,

do you know where I can buy a Quick Snap Wall Mount for my 100" Studio Tek 130 Luxus Deluxe screen ?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Regards

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post #1926 of 1947 Old 08-28-2014, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutaleZEN View Post
Hey Guys,

do you know where I can buy a Quick Snap Wall Mount for my 100" Studio Tek 130 Luxus Deluxe screen ?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Regards

If you are in Bangkok, maybe it would be easier to fabricate something locally ?

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post #1927 of 1947 Old 08-28-2014, 10:44 PM
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Hey Craig,

I already did, but frankly the job done is far from great, and my screen hang on a false wall, there is a false window at the back of my false wall that I have to unscrew to access the actual window that allow me to service the compressor for my air conditioner (yep, not a simple set up).

The thing is with the brackets that I have, it took me 1 or 2 hours to try to hang the screen ... kind of frustrating. I want the original Stewartfilm stuff that was designed by professionasl .... So I don't get aggravated when I want to service the air con compressor ...

I have an address in California, so not difficult to order stuff from the US.

Thanks again.

Regards

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post #1928 of 1947 Old 08-31-2014, 10:30 AM
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A couple questions related my upcoming (in progress actually) room build.

Right now, what is spec'd by Dennis Erskine is an Electrivertimask with a Studiotek 130 microperf screen (132" wide 2:35)

1. Previously, everything I've read is that past 10-11' feet, you don't see the microperfs. However, in my build thread, a number of people have talked about seeing them far past 11', including talking about seeing them more like in the 15-17' range. Also, that on very light scenes of movies they are more visible than in dark scenes. So, what's the story on visibility. I have a sample coming, but as my room isn't constructed, I don't have a real accurate way have testing this. I'm leaning towards the Stewart, but don't want to get into a situation of seeing the perfs all the time and regretting it (my primary seating row will be between 12-13' (still a couple minor details left that will decide exactly how far from eyes to screen).

2. This will be an aperture mount install into a screen wall. There will be zero access behind the screen (such as to work on speakers) other than through the screen frame. I was assuming one of the advantages to the Stewart was being able to unsnap the screen (or part of it) to be able to get back to the speakers if I need to make any tweaks. Someone pointed out that this is not as easy as I seemed to think.

Anyway, any thoughts on either of my two points above would be appreciated.
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post #1929 of 1947 Old 09-01-2014, 01:19 PM
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Stewart says 10' and Erskine says that's the screen form your theater; You've hired a pro to tell you what to use, opinions here should not come into it much IMO. Say 3 guys here say you can see them, 6 say you can't. Then what? And the bigger question, what are you gong to use otherwise? Your choices move to woven screen options that suck light. Now your projector isn't sized properly, or you need a different screen size, and it dominos from there to other theater issues. Work with your designer. He knows what he's doing.
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post #1930 of 1947 Old 09-02-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutaleZEN View Post
Hey Craig,

I already did, but frankly the job done is far from great, and my screen hang on a false wall, there is a false window at the back of my false wall that I have to unscrew to access the actual window that allow me to service the compressor for my air conditioner (yep, not a simple set up).

The thing is with the brackets that I have, it took me 1 or 2 hours to try to hang the screen ... kind of frustrating. I want the original Stewartfilm stuff that was designed by professionasl .... So I don't get aggravated when I want to service the air con compressor ...

I have an address in California, so not difficult to order stuff from the US.

Thanks again.

Regards

Send me an email and I'll see what I can do.

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post #1931 of 1947 Old 09-08-2014, 07:58 AM
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I have black wall n ceiling and would like to go for 130inch diagonal 2.35 screen. Should I go for studiotek 1.3 or use a lower gain screen 1.1? Any issue with hotspotting? Using jvc x700
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post #1932 of 1947 Old 09-08-2014, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanwn1 View Post
I have black wall n ceiling and would like to go for 130inch diagonal 2.35 screen. Should I go for studiotek 1.3 or use a lower gain screen 1.1? Any issue with hotspotting? Using jvc x700
Hot spotting is related to throw distance. What is your throw distance ?

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post #1933 of 1947 Old 09-09-2014, 11:42 AM
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I have a brand new motorized stewart screen and I just noticed some marks on one of the sides as if the screening is rubbing against the roller. I am concerned because I have had the screen for less than a month. Sent same inquiry to installer. Is this fixable? Suggestions?
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post #1934 of 1947 Old 09-17-2014, 07:10 PM
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Stewart Studiotek 130 G3

Hello, kind of a newbie here. Iam trying to decide on what size screen to go with in my dedicated HT. I like the ST 130 because of all the reviews i have read. My room is roughly 14' wide by 28' depth, drop ceiling is 7' 8" from floor. Iam considering 1.78 or 2.35 screen. I would like to get the biggest screen size i can get without going too big. My problem is the height from floor to ceiling. The wall the fixed screen will be mounted on is 14' wide. Any suggestions on how high the bottom of screen needs to be from floor. I had taped off for a 130" 16x9 screen on wall, ended up being 20" from floor & that was coming off ceiling 2". Might be better off going with a 2.35 screen...any suggestions would be highly grateful.
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post #1935 of 1947 Old 09-18-2014, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towns01 View Post
Hello, kind of a newbie here. Iam trying to decide on what size screen to go with in my dedicated HT. I like the ST 130 because of all the reviews i have read. My room is roughly 14' wide by 28' depth, drop ceiling is 7' 8" from floor. Iam considering 1.78 or 2.35 screen. I would like to get the biggest screen size i can get without going too big. My problem is the height from floor to ceiling. The wall the fixed screen will be mounted on is 14' wide. Any suggestions on how high the bottom of screen needs to be from floor. I had taped off for a 130" 16x9 screen on wall, ended up being 20" from floor & that was coming off ceiling 2". Might be better off going with a 2.35 screen...any suggestions would be highly grateful.

The bottom of my 122" diagonal 1.78:1 screen is 17" off the floor ( bottom of viewing surface ). It's perfect height wise.

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post #1936 of 1947 Old 09-27-2014, 05:59 PM
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I have the opportunity to buy a used G2 123' Firehawk that I believe is about 6-7 years old, but only used for 3-4. I'm struggling to find a good asking price. Also, how long do screens usually last.... assuming it was well taken care of?
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post #1937 of 1947 Old 09-29-2014, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towns01 View Post
Hello, kind of a newbie here. Iam trying to decide on what size screen to go with in my dedicated HT. I like the ST 130 because of all the reviews i have read. My room is roughly 14' wide by 28' depth, drop ceiling is 7' 8" from floor. Iam considering 1.78 or 2.35 screen. I would like to get the biggest screen size i can get without going too big. My problem is the height from floor to ceiling. The wall the fixed screen will be mounted on is 14' wide. Any suggestions on how high the bottom of screen needs to be from floor. I had taped off for a 130" 16x9 screen on wall, ended up being 20" from floor & that was coming off ceiling 2". Might be better off going with a 2.35 screen...any suggestions would be highly grateful.
Mounted low like 20" is great, as long as your feet do not block your view, when reclined.

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post #1938 of 1947 Old 09-29-2014, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Rosser Byorick View Post
I have the opportunity to buy a used G2 123' Firehawk that I believe is about 6-7 years old, but only used for 3-4. I'm struggling to find a good asking price. Also, how long do screens usually last.... assuming it was well taken care of?

Easily 15 - 20 years I would think. Sort of depends on the environment - cool, clean, dark - maybe 25 years.

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post #1939 of 1947 Old 09-29-2014, 03:56 PM
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Mounted low like 20" is great, as long as your feet do not block your view, when reclined.
As always, everything depends on ones theater layout. I for one do not have recliners. Folks just pass out in them and fall asleep.................I'm running a home theater, not a motel !

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post #1940 of 1947 Old 09-30-2014, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
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As always, everything depends on ones theater layout. I for one do not have recliners. Folks just pass out in them and fall asleep.................I'm running a home theater, not a motel !
With 10,000 watts on tap, nobody falls asleep in my theater.

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post #1941 of 1947 Old 09-30-2014, 09:34 AM
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With 10,000 watts on tap, nobody falls asleep in my theater.

I have 10,001
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post #1942 of 1947 Old 10-03-2014, 08:26 AM
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I have 10,001
I know your set up and I bet nobody falls asleep in it.

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post #1943 of 1947 Old 10-14-2014, 08:57 AM
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Stewart Screen Material Guide

We did a comparison between Umatte 150, ST 130 and Firehawk. I thought this would be helpful for stewart owners who want to upgrade their screens or new people interested in stewart, This addresses the most common question we get on Stewart.

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post #1944 of 1947 Old 10-14-2014, 11:13 PM
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8 year old Stewart screen, ceiling mounted, retracted up mid-show and now won't come down. Since it retracted, can I assume that the motor still works and it is a cable issue? I'm going to call my installer tomorrow.

Thanks,
David

DES
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post #1945 of 1947 Old 10-15-2014, 07:10 AM
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Try Stewart Tech support

I would try Stewart Tech support on it, they may have seen the issue before.

Alan Hutchinson
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post #1946 of 1947 Old 10-15-2014, 05:27 PM
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Just a couple quibbles from that video since there are a few parts that could be misleading...

1. The gentleman in the video talks of "losing detail" when using the Firehawk sample compared to the ST130. That could make someone who didn't know any better believe that the Firehawk actually causes images to lose detail. "Well, I don't want to lose image detail, so why would I use a Firehawk?" The Firehawk material doesn't inherently lose detail. It simply makes the image more dim, making some detail a little harder to see. But any screen with a lower gain would do the same. Simply adding brightness to the projected image (e.g. moving the projector closer, using a brighter projector, opening up a manual iris if one is employed) to equalise brightness would make the detail just as visible as on a white screen. So it's just a function of brightness.

2. "I still think the Firehawk G3 was made for improving the contrast on projectors vs dealing with light."

There's been a long history of people presuming gray-based screens somehow magically improve the contrast of projectors, simply by virtue of being gray based or whatever. They don't.

A screen, whether it's a firehawk or a neutral white screen, does not improve the native contrast image of a projector. That's not possible as the screen simply reflects back whatever contrast the projector is putting out. The Firehawk was designed to improve the projected image contrast in situations where it could be compromised by ambient light and/or reflective room surfaces. (It does so by using a darker substrate material that helps lower the level of stray light on the screen, while using an optical coating to focus light more directly back to the viewer vs a neutral screen,
to maintain decent image brightness at the viewer location, and to direct less light on to adjacent room surfaces to mitigate reflections).

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post #1947 of 1947 Old 10-16-2014, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
Just a couple quibbles from that video since there are a few parts that could be misleading...

1. The gentleman in the video talks of "losing detail" when using the Firehawk sample compared to the ST130. That could make someone who didn't know any better believe that the Firehawk actually causes images to lose detail. "Well, I don't want to lose image detail, so why would I use a Firehawk?" The Firehawk material doesn't inherently lose detail. It simply makes the image more dim, making some detail a little harder to see. But any screen with a lower gain would do the same. Simply adding brightness to the projected image (e.g. moving the projector closer, using a brighter projector, opening up a manual iris if one is employed) to equalise brightness would make the detail just as visible as on a white screen. So it's just a function of brightness.

2. "I still think the Firehawk G3 was made for improving the contrast on projectors vs dealing with light."

There's been a long history of people presuming gray-based screens somehow magically improve the contrast of projectors, simply by virtue of being gray based or whatever. They don't.

A screen, whether it's a firehawk or a neutral white screen, does not improve the native contrast image of a projector. That's not possible as the screen simply reflects back whatever contrast the projector is putting out. The Firehawk was designed to improve the projected image contrast in situations where it could be compromised by ambient light and/or reflective room surfaces. (It does so by using a darker substrate material that helps lower the level of stray light on the screen, while using an optical coating to focus light more directly back to the viewer vs a neutral screen,
to maintain decent image brightness at the viewer location, and to direct less light on to adjacent room surfaces to mitigate reflections).

Cheers,

You can't compare gray and white screens very fairly together like that - your eye is always drawn to the brightest image. And everything you said Rich is spot on. With a full sized Firehawk, your eyes would adjust to the brightness.

Craig Peer, AV Science Sales. Call me on my direct line - 585-671-2972, 8:30am - 4:30pm PST, Monday - Friday
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