The official Elite screen thread. - Page 12 - AVS Forum
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post #331 of 1704 Old 10-22-2007, 11:58 AM
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The adjustment instructions are on Elite's website.

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post #332 of 1704 Old 10-22-2007, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_waller View Post

it is a dumb question and yes, you can adjust it to stop at a higher position. I had to do that for mine.

just kidding about the question being dumb.

Nope, it was a dumb question

"But, if you DON'T ask....."
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post #333 of 1704 Old 10-22-2007, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lang View Post

The adjustment instructions are on Elite's website.

Never trust a company's site. Or anyone over 30!

Just figured I'd ask an actual user out there
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post #334 of 1704 Old 10-25-2007, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zr600 View Post

I tried to buy a manual pull down 135" screen but both times they sent me one out it came in broken. I believe the plastic end caps break in shipping. I now ordered a vmax2, it has alum. end caps. The people at visualapex have been great to work with through this whole deal. I would buy from them again!.............Brian

Update!!!!!

Elite refused to upgrade me to an electric screen. They wanted me to pay for shipping again. I was not about to pay $90 for shipping twice because they could not get a screen sent to me without it being defective. Visualapex was great to deal with and they refunded me the screen money and the shipping money. I still don't understand why elite would not upgrade me, as they would be selling a higher price product which would be a plus for them. The only reason I wanted to upgrade was so I could maybe get a working screen. This has drug on for over 6 weeks now. I will never order an elite screen again, nor do I recommend it to anyone. Now that I got my money back I could just order an electric elite, which doesn't make sense again why they did not do the swap in the first place, but as I said I will not order another elite screen, ever.............Brian

Reading this would make it seem like Elite isn't responsive, but my experience has been spectacular. I received a Cinetension 3 screen for a customer and installed it. After installation we noticed the top edge of the screen where the black 'mask' met the white viewing surface was lower in the middle then on the outer edges. It wasn't a straight line across the top. It only was maybe 1/2" lower in the middle but had the effect of causing the whole rectangular viewing surface to apprear not right because of the uneven top. One call to customer support had a replacement on its way to us. No hassles. They said it should be square (agreed!) and was a defective unit.

I can tell you that is how a company should be and my experience has been great. The shipping box the Cinetension came in was superior and well protected by foam support and heavy duty cardboard. Each of the included hangers, anchors, remotes, triggers etc seem very well made. The operation is silent as well. This is the second Cinetension we've installed so far and I'd highly recommend them. If your looking for a motorized screen on a budget, you just can't go wrong.
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post #335 of 1704 Old 10-25-2007, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lennyd View Post

Reading this would make it seem like Elite isn't responsive, but my experience has been spectacular. I received a Cinetension 3 screen for a customer and installed it. After installation we noticed the top edge of the screen where the black 'mask' met the white viewing surface was lower in the middle then on the outer edges. It wasn't a straight line across the top. It only was maybe 1/2" lower in the middle but had the effect of causing the whole rectangular viewing surface to apprear not right because of the uneven top. One call to customer support had a replacement on its way to us. No hassles. They said it should be square (agreed!) and was a defective unit.

I can tell you that is how a company should be and my experience has been great. The shipping box the Cinetension came in was superior and well protected by foam support and heavy duty cardboard. Each of the included hangers, anchors, remotes, triggers etc seem very well made. The operation is silent as well. This is the second Cinetension we've installed so far and I'd highly recommend them. If your looking for a motorized screen on a budget, you just can't go wrong.

What is different between the CineTension2 and 3? How flat is the screen surface? What material did you get? Do you have any CineTension that have been installed for a year or more? How are they holding up?
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post #336 of 1704 Old 10-25-2007, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

What is different between the CineTension2 and 3? How flat is the screen surface? What material did you get? Do you have any CineTension that have been installed for a year or more? How are they holding up?


Cinetension3 is for custom installers only. Includes universal remote or something in addition to standard remote. Otherwise pretty much the same. It's on their website.
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post #337 of 1704 Old 10-26-2007, 09:56 AM
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I just got an Elite EZ Frame 106" matt white.

This screen is nice, the frame is excellent, really classy looking. For the price I am very, very happy.

I didn't expect to have to stretch the screen material this much to install it, my first though was "no way will it stretch that far!". But, of course it did.

- Rick
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post #338 of 1704 Old 10-28-2007, 02:19 PM
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Hey Krynos

I'm looking at the exact screen from PPeople.....is the assembly pretty easy and can be done by one person? What kind of PJ are u using with it?

Thx
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post #339 of 1704 Old 10-28-2007, 05:30 PM
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I'm considering an Elite 92" manual pull down using their SilverGray 1.1 gain surface (model M92UCH) for use with an Infocus 7210.

Does anyone have experience with this material? Care to comment on it? I'm particularly interested in its ambient light rejection, contrast, color shift, texture, and hotspotting. The SilverGrey gain chart has a good deal more roll off than their matte white, which is exactly what I'm looking for.

Also, I am concerned about waves. This will be my first non-DIY screen, so I want to make sure it'll be worth it over a DIY solution. If it did wave, I'd probably just cut the material out and mount it in a screen, but that seems to defeat the purpose of going commercial, in mind.
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post #340 of 1704 Old 10-29-2007, 08:19 AM
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Hi dose any one know what the pin out is on the RJ45 connect for the screen trigger.


thank you
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post #341 of 1704 Old 10-30-2007, 01:29 AM
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Found Answer
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post #342 of 1704 Old 10-30-2007, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fragster View Post

Hey Krynos

I'm looking at the exact screen from PPeople.....is the assembly pretty easy and can be done by one person? What kind of PJ are u using with it?

I'm using it with a Panasonic AE900.

The assembly is pretty straight forward. I don't see a problem assembling it solo.

- Rick
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post #343 of 1704 Old 10-31-2007, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krynos View Post

I just got an Elite EZ Frame 106" matt white.

This screen is nice, the frame is excellent, really classy looking. For the price I am very, very happy.

I didn't expect to have to stretch the screen material this much to install it, my first though was "no way will it stretch that far!". But, of course it did.

- Rick

I know exactly what you mean. I just put mine together about 2 weeks ago and I was like WOW is this going to rip or not hold? I have had no issue and would buy again. Great screen for the money.
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post #344 of 1704 Old 11-03-2007, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddyW View Post

Thsi may be a dumb question, but, as I see you can adjust the cinetension2 to drop lower...can you accordingly adjust it so it doesn't drop quite so low? My question arises because I want to get a 106" screen, but I might drop a bit in front of my center channel speaker if I can't adjust the stop to make it stop sooner....

Short version- Can the electric cinetension2 be adjusted so there is only 4" of black up top instead of 6" when the screen is lowered?

Thanks,
Fred

Ok, read instructions on website. It's not working. Do you adjust when it's UP or DOWN, or in MOTION? I need to shrink the top mask about 3".

VERY frustrating. Instructions on the elite site suck. The bottom adjustment on my screen is blocked with a screw?

Cinetension2. Thanks.
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post #345 of 1704 Old 11-03-2007, 06:29 PM
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I did it with the screen all the way up. I adjusted it so that there was no drop (just the black border).

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post #346 of 1704 Old 11-04-2007, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lang View Post

I did it with the screen all the way up. I adjusted it so that there was no drop (just the black border).

Ok, on my screen, there are TWO adjustment spots for the allen wrench. A YELLOW one and a WHITE one. Through some experimenting, the yellow one seems to control overall DROP distance.

The white seems to WIND it up at the top?

We screwed around with it for an hour last night and the motor shutdown. The screen is now retracting TOO FAR into the case and we can't get it to stop or accept an adjustment.

This is annoying AND embarassing. If anyone could post specifics of white each COLOR port does when turned clockwise or counterCW, we would appreciate it. We're afraid to mess around anymore for fear of breaking it.

Sorry for the momentary lapse, usually I'm good at this stuff.

Fred
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post #347 of 1704 Old 11-04-2007, 11:22 AM
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I have had the 120" white Elite EZ-Frame. It is my first screen and I have been very impressed with it. It only took about an hour to put it together and it looks very classy. Has a high quality appearance. I like the fact that it does not have a 8"+ velvet border, it seems to be right around 4".

I am driving it with the Sony VPL-AW15. The image is not quite as bright as I would like, but luckily I can control the ambient light.

I got it new off ebay for far less than the $500+ common street price. For the money it is an excellent bargain.
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post #348 of 1704 Old 11-04-2007, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddyW View Post

Ok, on my screen, there are TWO adjustment spots for the allen wrench. A YELLOW one and a WHITE one. Through some experimenting, the yellow one seems to control overall DROP distance.

The white seems to WIND it up at the top?

We screwed around with it for an hour last night and the motor shutdown. The screen is now retracting TOO FAR into the case and we can't get it to stop or accept an adjustment.

This is annoying AND embarassing. If anyone could post specifics of white each COLOR port does when turned clockwise or counterCW, we would appreciate it. We're afraid to mess around anymore for fear of breaking it.

Sorry for the momentary lapse, usually I'm good at this stuff.

Fred

The top screw (yellow) adjusts the rise. Turning the Allen-wrench half a circle counterclockwise in increments will cause the screen to retract flushing with the screen’s case.

The bottom screw (white) adjusts the fall. Turning the Allen-wrench a full circle clockwise will cause the screen to retract, making less of the top black masking.

After adjusting each one, you must let the screen do a full up/down cycle before you'll see the difference.

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post #349 of 1704 Old 11-05-2007, 07:05 PM
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Ok Mike, I have a cinetension2. I have the extended DROP correct, meaning, The screen drops as low as I want it. I did that by adjusting the YELLOW screw. Counter-clockwise yellow DROP the screen when it was fully extended.

HOwever, I messed around with the WHITE screw, and now my screen retracts TOO FAR into the case. I can't get it to stop.

Any help would be appreciated. I don't know which way to turn it, neither way seems to work. I know it's the WHITE screw because I puleld it back in the case when I originally adjusted it. But like a dope I did not write it down.

Key point- on my screen the instructions for colors seem to be reversed? When the screen is fully deployed, I can crank the yellow screw and get it to drop lower or higher. This does nothing to the screen in its retracted state.

Goal: When screen is retracted, have weighted bar is nearly flush with case.
Problem: Weighted bar currently retracts TOO DEEP into case and grinds motor, no matter which color screw I turn.
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post #350 of 1704 Old 11-06-2007, 07:45 AM
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I like the screen, but I have to say...mounting it was a B!(&H. The case was at an angle that the bolts wouldn't slide into the mount. Anyway...

I have an epson 1080p projector...when I power it on, the screen starts to come down...then retracts...then as the picture starts to light up...comes back down.

Is that normal?
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post #351 of 1704 Old 11-06-2007, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrible_buddhis View Post

I like the screen, but I have to say...mounting it was a B!(&H. The case was at an angle that the bolts wouldn't slide into the mount. Anyway...

Was your screen tilted to begin with? The 'T' channel should be at the top and the screen then hangs straight down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by terrible_buddhis View Post

I have an epson 1080p projector...when I power it on, the screen starts to come down...then retracts...then as the picture starts to light up...comes back down.

No, not normal. Your using the 12v trigger I assume. I'd actually look to the wiring or the connection to the PJ as the trigger on the Screen should only do what the projector tells it to.

I read these posts about the lousy directions, poor mounting anchors, screws etc. and wonder just what is expected from a manufacturer. To me, the hardware is more then ample for a variety of normal installs, although I've yet to have a normal one. But a little creativity goes a long ways to get these hung right. The last one we put up, we tap-conned a 1x6x8 (use a hard wood for this) to the wall and mounted the 'L' bracket to that, which worked perfect. The 1' thick board also put the screen out just enough to clear the sill of the window the screen covered. Another we used threaded rod attached to butterfly anchors up through the ceiling joists on one end while sliding flat female threaded fasteners into the mounting channel on the other. This allowed us to raise and level the sceen into place in the ceiling opening we cut for mounting flush with the ceiling. A quick addition of trim and we had a beautiful flush mounted screen.

All in all, the Cinetension system comes complete with sturdy hardware for most installs. I'm impressed with what Elite gives you for the money these cost!
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post #352 of 1704 Old 11-06-2007, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddyW View Post

Ok Mike, I have a cinetension2. I have the extended DROP correct, meaning, The screen drops as low as I want it. I did that by adjusting the YELLOW screw. Counter-clockwise yellow DROP the screen when it was fully extended.

HOwever, I messed around with the WHITE screw, and now my screen retracts TOO FAR into the case. I can't get it to stop.

Any help would be appreciated. I don't know which way to turn it, neither way seems to work. I know it's the WHITE screw because I puleld it back in the case when I originally adjusted it. But like a dope I did not write it down.

Key point- on my screen the instructions for colors seem to be reversed? When the screen is fully deployed, I can crank the yellow screw and get it to drop lower or higher. This does nothing to the screen in its retracted state.

Goal: When screen is retracted, have weighted bar is nearly flush with case.
Problem: Weighted bar currently retracts TOO DEEP into case and grinds motor, no matter which color screw I turn.

That's backwards. The yellow screw is to adjust so it doesn't retract too far into the case...
http://www.elitescreens.com/pdf/adj_cinetension_g.pdf

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post #353 of 1704 Old 11-06-2007, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by zr600 View Post
I tried to buy a manual pull down 135" screen but both times they sent me one out it came in broken. I believe the plastic end caps break in shipping. I now ordered a vmax2, it has alum. end caps. The people at visualapex have been great to work with through this whole deal. I would buy from them again!.............Brian

Update!!!!!

Elite refused to upgrade me to an electric screen. They wanted me to pay for shipping again. I was not about to pay $90 for shipping twice because they could not get a screen sent to me without it being defective. Visualapex was great to deal with and they refunded me the screen money and the shipping money. I still don't understand why elite would not upgrade me, as they would be selling a higher price product which would be a plus for them. The only reason I wanted to upgrade was so I could maybe get a working screen. This has drug on for over 6 weeks now. I will never order an elite screen again, nor do I recommend it to anyone. Now that I got my money back I could just order an electric elite, which doesn't make sense again why they did not do the swap in the first place, but as I said I will not order another elite screen, ever.............Brian""

Quote:
Originally Posted by lennyd View Post

Reading this would make it seem like Elite isn't responsive, but my experience has been spectacular. I received a Cinetension 3 screen for a customer and installed it. After installation we noticed the top edge of the screen where the black 'mask' met the white viewing surface was lower in the middle then on the outer edges. It wasn't a straight line across the top. It only was maybe 1/2" lower in the middle but had the effect of causing the whole rectangular viewing surface to apprear not right because of the uneven top. One call to customer support had a replacement on its way to us. No hassles. They said it should be square (agreed!) and was a defective unit.

I can tell you that is how a company should be and my experience has been great. The shipping box the Cinetension came in was superior and well protected by foam support and heavy duty cardboard. Each of the included hangers, anchors, remotes, triggers etc seem very well made. The operation is silent as well. This is the second Cinetension we've installed so far and I'd highly recommend them. If your looking for a motorized screen on a budget, you just can't go wrong.

Well I guess I should have listened to ZR600. I did buy a motorized screen and I believe I DID GO WRONG purchasing Elite. Does anyone have the name of the president of Elite or know how I can find out. Customer service is little help and just doesn't care. I'm going to give another try to contact the president and if that doesn't work, I'll post my problems to keep others from going wrong

Why does anyone have to start a sentence with "So"?
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post #354 of 1704 Old 11-07-2007, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lang View Post

That's backwards. The yellow screw is to adjust so it doesn't retract too far into the case...
http://www.elitescreens.com/pdf/adj_cinetension_g.pdf

Nope. Not on my screen. The WHITE knob turned CLOCKWISE lowered the at-rest-state of the screen. Problem seems to be solved.

Crazy. I called Elite, their guy had no idea, I think he was reading their website.

Ah, well.

Final thoughts: The Elite 1.1 gain white screen is not as good as my former Carada Brilliant White 1.4 screen. No comparison, actually. Fortunately, I have a decent projector, and my bulb has over 800 hours, so I will probably change bulbs.

That said, I DO like having the electric screen because the 50" plasma now mounted on the wall will handle our everyday-type viewing.

Room has come together REALLY nicely. Just need to finish the false front for the electric screen and then paint it, an dI'll be done. ETA about a week or two (a little burnout right now).
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post #355 of 1704 Old 11-08-2007, 09:13 AM
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what is the false front going to look like?
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post #356 of 1704 Old 11-08-2007, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrible_buddhis View Post

what is the false front going to look like?

Maybe that term is misleading. Basically, the room is 156" wide. The screen casing is approx. 103" wide. If you look at the pics I posted, you can see the small lights I installed across the front. Well, the middle one is gone now, and the two outside ones remain. I was going to build a soffit for each side and drop the lights, but my height is critical. Instead of making a soffit that was effectively hollow and open for 2/3 of the length, I decided to just mount a 1 x 10 across the length of the room. 9-1/4" (the actual width of a 1 x 10) is as far as I want to come down as I do want some mask exposed. I can get a 1 x 10 x 14, so the length will be uniform. Then I'll mount 2 x 4 on the side walls and a 2 x 2 across the ceiling. I will rout the bottom edge of the 1 x 10 to something nice but subtle. Then I'll hang it and paint it the color of the walls.

Advantages:

1) easy to install

2) easy to take down

3) easy to access screen

4) I will not have to remove the lights from the ceilign, as they will still shine down as needed

But, like I said, I'm a bit burned out right now. I'll get to it in the next couple weeks and be done with it!
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post #357 of 1704 Old 11-08-2007, 02:07 PM
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I am not finding the pics.
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post #358 of 1704 Old 11-09-2007, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrible_buddhis View Post

I am not finding the pics.


Good question. I know I posted the pics on some thread. I will repost.

Original media room
-Pioneer Elite 630 Pro HD
-Rack on left
-SVS Sub



Media Room Rev. 1
-plasma-style tv stand for component
-Samsung 710 AE projector
-100" fixed Carada Screen
-Hsu sub



Media Room Rev. 2 (will upload pics later)
-Panasonic 50" plasma on wall
-Elite Cinetension2 100" screen
-new couches
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post #359 of 1704 Old 11-10-2007, 10:15 PM
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Today I got an elite VMAX100UWH screen off craigslist. Appears to be in EXCELLENT condition screen wise (which to me means the most), but the unit was missing the remote and some sort of switchbox (misplaced during a move they said) and in the new house they had a new screen so this wasnt being used, thus was put up for quick cheap sale.

Since I couldn't test the screen motor but the screen itself looked fantastic condition, I decided for the price i paid (less than half of what a manual 16:9 elite 100 diag screen costs) I figured worst case I use it as is in down position or cut the screen off it and mount it to a fixed frame or something.

What I have here are 2 cords and the case with screen.

One is a standard 3 prong AC power cord and on the other end of this cord is a 3 pin female jack (didn't see where or how this hooks into the screen to power it though).

The other cord has a 4 pin female end on both ends, and i do see a jack on the side of the case that accepts this 4 prong, but not sure where other end goes to?

I know i dont have the remote but i do have an MX-700 remote and saw elite had some codes I could enter that hopefully one may work to get this up and down.

But at this point what am I missing here, where does the wall outlet 3 female ended cord go to?

Where does the other end of the 4 female ended cord go to?

Can supply pics but figured for someone who knows screens this might be a easy question as to what I am missing/needing to make this work or to even at least test it or something...


Thanks for any replies,

Bill
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post #360 of 1704 Old 11-12-2007, 08:17 AM
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I currently have a 100" cinetension 1 and I have about a 1-2" gap on the top of the image where the actual screen material seems to be cut incorrectly. I read where some users are using tape to tape over the screen to make it look correct.

Due to movers mishandling my screen, I have to get a new one. I purchased the Cinetension 2 and I am hoping this fixes the issue of the screen being "out of whack" with my projector.

Thoughts?
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Projection Screens , Da Lite Screens , Panasonic Et Lae700 Replacement Lamp For Pt Ae700u , Projectors , Elite Screens Inc
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