The official SeymourAV center stage screen thread! - Page 110 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #3271 of 3282 Old 10-11-2016, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by vantage78 View Post
Hi Chris, thanks for the response! Some follow-up questions:

1) I'll definitely look into the Black 1.2. However, it seems to have a constraint of 2x the width of the screen for the minimum throw. For the size I am considering, 141" diagonal, a 2 x 130" W min throw would put me at 21.7'. I'm currently prewired for the projector to be mounted at 16.8'; I always thought if I move it back to 21' or so, I'd be losing image brightness?

2) How does vertical half-gain correspond to vertical viewing angle? Per my calculations with a 141" diagonal screen with a 54.8" high viewing area, I'm probably going to achieve a 16.15 degree vertical viewing angle for my first row, 8.52 degrees vertical viewing angle for my back row. Would a AV 1.3 or a AV 1.2 be ok considering those vertical viewing angles?

I appreciate the insight!
1) The 2x throw distance is recommended for uniformity. It's just a guideline that can be pushed. The eye is logarithmic in response, so it takes a surprisingly high amount of nonuniformity to create visible hotspotting. You may be losing some brightness by moving the projector back, but any ALR screen will benefit from a longer throw. So, I'd say do what you can (e.g. mount one stud back, or move it back if it's not that big a deal) but I wouldn't conduct major surgery to accommodate that recommendation.

The AV1.3 would exhibit better uniformity, but the AV1.2 is a smoother, less reflective look.

2) Our ALR materials are nondirectional, in that they have the same response vertically as horizontally. Your vertical angles are not an issue at all.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #3272 of 3282 Old 11-06-2016, 08:48 AM
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Anyone know if any of the Seymour screens can be used for rear projection? I fully understand that rear projection is inherently incompatible with speakers behind a screen (duh!) but I may have a special application where a screen may be used front OR rear for different setups. Thanks!
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post #3273 of 3282 Old 11-07-2016, 01:13 PM
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Ladies and Gents--the Seymour Screen Experience is in full effect:

Size and Model: 12' wide curved Seymour Centerstage XD | Aspect Ratio: 16:9 screen | Masking: 2:37 via magnetic panels:




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post #3274 of 3282 Old 11-07-2016, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deromax View Post
Anyone know if any of the Seymour screens can be used for rear projection? I fully understand that rear projection is inherently incompatible with speakers behind a screen (duh!) but I may have a special application where a screen may be used front OR rear for different setups. Thanks!
We don't have any rear projection screens at this time. A thin vinyl screen can be used on both sides if it doesn't have a black back or other opacity layer. Our Glacier screens do have opacity built into them, as normally translucence isn't an advantage.. The typical white vinyl screens are quite translucent, as they allow quite a bit of "blow-through."

Cheers,
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post #3275 of 3282 Old 11-07-2016, 02:12 PM
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Hey Brolic, how are the panels fitting? Each corner set allows about 1/8"of adjustability if you need to slightly adjust the width or height. The goal is to have them barely, if at all, touching each other.

Pointer: When removing, break the left/right pair up by hinging the first one out, as if it was hinged on the frame. This keeps the panel you're pulling out from touching the other panel. Once that motion is used, they're super easy, but we caution against just grab-and-pulling.

Regardless, let me know if you need anything.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #3276 of 3282 Old 11-07-2016, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post
Hey Brolic, how are the panels fitting? Each corner set allows about 1/8"of adjustability if you need to slightly adjust the width or height. The goal is to have them barely, if at all, touching each other.

Pointer: When removing, break the left/right pair up by hinging the first one out, as if it was hinged on the frame. This keeps the panel you're pulling out from touching the other panel. Once that motion is used, they're super easy, but we caution against just grab-and-pulling.

Regardless, let me know if you need anything.

Cheers,
Chris
Hey Chris! I haven't yet tried the panels yet because I need to install the bottom brackets to make the screen perfectly plumb. I hope to get to that this weekend. I just been sitting in awe and staring at the screen every couple of days though over the last week.

--Posted via Tapatalk, which actually is pretty cool.
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post #3277 of 3282 Old 11-27-2016, 05:31 PM
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Do you know if anyone has mounted a retractable Seymour screen in the ceiling with a DIY trap door mechanism? Seymour screen is perfect for my intended application but WAF will require invisible appearance in the ceiling, ideally with a trap door and not one open long slot.
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post #3278 of 3282 Old 11-28-2016, 01:04 PM
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I seem to recall a few. What's required is a sequential control, so that the retractable (120v) motor can't operate until the trap door motor (usually dc) is finished operating. ESI used to make a RP60 box that was sequential, but both motor A and B are 120v controls. I have one on hand.

We typically recommend drop slots, as they never fail. Also, make sure you keep the space accessible.

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post #3279 of 3282 Old Today, 12:10 PM
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The width of my wall is 3214mm and a Seymour screen I've been considering is 3183mm total width.

Am I going to have any problems hanging the fixed frame with very little clearance? I'm not sure how they fix to the wall.

Thanks
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post #3280 of 3282 Old Today, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apcreek View Post
The width of my wall is 3214mm and a Seymour screen I've been considering is 3183mm total width.

Am I going to have any problems hanging the fixed frame with very little clearance? I'm not sure how they fix to the wall.

Thanks
As long as you are making a screen with grommets on the front I think you will be OK, as you can remove the o-rings to get in the area behind the screen if you have to. You could also hang the screen and have a hinge (or something) so you can lift the screen up to get at the back area, but then you are going to have to make sure everything is perfectly aligned, and that your walls are perfectly straight to prevent scraping on the walls.

IMO making it fixed with grommets would be the best in your situation. How do you plan to matt the screen frame?

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post #3281 of 3282 Old Today, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
As long as you are making a screen with grommets on the front I think you will be OK, as you can remove the o-rings to get in the area behind the screen if you have to. You could also hang the screen and have a hinge (or something) so you can lift the screen up to get at the back area, but then you are going to have to make sure everything is perfectly aligned, and that your walls are perfectly straight to prevent scraping on the walls.

IMO making it fixed with grommets would be the best in your situation. How do you plan to matt the screen frame?
This will be the first screen I have ever constructed. I was planning on putting it together on the carpet floor, room length wise and then swinging it round to hang on the wall width wise.
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post #3282 of 3282 Old Today, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apcreek View Post
This will be the first screen I have ever constructed. I was planning on putting it together on the carpet floor, room length wise and then swinging it round to hang on the wall width wise.
Unless you use grommets or make it like a screen door is with a groove, I would make some hinges of some sort so you could place it up against the wall, and then raise it up enough to be able to grab it. Then you could easily attach it to a board mounted to the ceiling...otherwise it is going to be difficult to get to the back if you need to. You wouldn't have to get fancy with a hinge... you could even get 3 door hinges, then when you want to get behind the screen just grab a piece of wood to hold it while you are working behind the screen (or you could even put some hooks in the ceiling that you could lift the screen up to attach to the hooks with some loops on the screen frame).Just my opinion.
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