The official SeymourAV center stage screen thread! - Page 55 - AVS Forum
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post #1621 of 2773 Old 03-26-2012, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TedO View Post

Chris,

Is the EN2 material on the Seymour/Screen Excellence web site the same as the XD material?

Besides the mounting technique (O-rings and grommets vs groove tensioning) can you tell me or show me the difference between the EN4K frame and the frame that comes with the XD screens?

Can I order either screen from you or do I need to work through a dealer for the EN4K screen?

Do you have a showroom or the screens on display in your plant in Ames?

Can you PM me pricing for both screens H120 and F160 in the EN4K material?

Not Chris, but I can answer some of your questions. The EN4K material can't be used with an O-ring grommet install due to the fabric, that is why it is installed with a bead type system. The EN4K screens are sold through dealers. If we can help you, please give us a call.

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post #1622 of 2773 Old 03-27-2012, 08:09 PM
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Just received my XD screen. Frame came together nicely however I noticed the bottom section of the frame does not rest perfectly level on one side of my false wall. I'm sure this is likely due to my false wall being off slightly as the frame is perfectly level. Any thoughts on how to secure the bottom side the the frame so it stays securely on the wall? The hangers are also perfectly level so that's not the cause either.


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post #1623 of 2773 Old 03-27-2012, 08:18 PM
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Scribe the false wall panel to match.


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post #1624 of 2773 Old 03-27-2012, 08:26 PM
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Could use a bit of velcro - but make sure you can still get the projector lens perpendicular to the screen, or it will drive you nuts.


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post #1625 of 2773 Old 03-28-2012, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Could use a bit of velcro - but make sure you can still get the projector lens perpendicular to the screen, or it will drive you nuts.

It's just lifting off the wall on one side towards the bottom. If I press the bottom edge with finger with hardly any pressure at all, it will stay flat. Velcro is an option. I'm surprised there isn't any hardware included to secure the bottom like the Stewart frames.


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post #1626 of 2773 Old 03-28-2012, 06:02 AM
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How far off the wall is it? If, as you say, the screen is "flat" (i.e not twisted or warped) and that the wall is the culprit, you could shim the french cleats that the screen hangs from off the wall by enough so that the entire screen is plumb. (You would likely have to shim out the bottom of the frame so the screen is plumb and not "aimed down" due to the cleats.)
But if the gap is not as severe, the velcro option sounds like a plan.
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post #1627 of 2773 Old 03-28-2012, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveHorn View Post

How far off the wall is it? If, as you say, the screen is "flat" (i.e not twisted or warped) and that the wall is the culprit, you could shim the french cleats that the screen hangs from off the wall by enough so that the entire screen is plumb. (You would likely have to shim out the bottom of the frame so the screen is plumb and not "aimed down" due to the cleats.)
But if the gap is not as severe, the velcro option sounds like a plan.

Velcro seems to make the most sense at this point.


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post #1628 of 2773 Old 03-28-2012, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adidino View Post

It's just lifting off the wall on one side towards the bottom. If I press the bottom edge with finger with hardly any pressure at all, it will stay flat. Velcro is an option. I'm surprised there isn't any hardware included to secure the bottom like the Stewart frames.

You can use an "L" shaped clip. If you want the clip to be hidden. place one leg of the clip so that it is behind the screen and then screw through the clip into the bottom of the screen. Other leg of clip is fastened to a stud in the wall. You will have to remove the screen to install the clips. This is the method that most marker boards and tack boards are installed by, except four or more clips are used. It is similar to how Stewart hangs their screens.

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post #1629 of 2773 Old 03-28-2012, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

You can use an "L" shaped clip. If you want the clip to be hidden. place one leg of the clip so that it is behind the screen and then screw through the clip into the bottom of the screen. Other leg of clip is fastened to a stud in the wall. You will have to remove the screen to install the clips. This is the method that most marker boards and tack boards are installed by, except four or more clips are used. It is similar to how Stewart hangs their screens.


That would require drilling into the frame though. No? I don't recall seeing holes on the frame to support an L bracket.


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post #1630 of 2773 Old 03-28-2012, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adidino View Post

That would require drilling into the frame though. No? I don't recall seeing holes on the frame to support an L bracket.

Correct you would need to drill into the bottom of the frame or use self drilling screws.

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post #1631 of 2773 Old 03-29-2012, 09:29 AM
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I'm in the process of building my HT. I've seen several comments about recommendations for 1" to 2-3" between speakers and AT screens. I notice that those are for LCR speakers. This leads me to believe that subwoofers are a no-no behind AT screens. My setup could place not one, but two subwoofers behind a false wall. So, what's the party line on subwoofers and AT screens? The AT material is very interesting, just want to see if it comes with limitations on sub location.

PS: The speaker system I plan to buy includes two subs and they are recommended to be placed side by side at the front of the theater. Hence my question :-)

Thanks,

Chuck


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post #1632 of 2773 Old 03-29-2012, 09:33 AM
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Normally with a false wall your subs would be below the screen. I can't think of too many situations where the sub would actually be firing through the screen any way.


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post #1633 of 2773 Old 03-29-2012, 09:48 AM
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Are you more apt to get hot spotting with a curved screen than without.

My sub will be behind an AT Screen also.

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post #1634 of 2773 Old 03-29-2012, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Miller View Post

I'm in the process of building my HT. I've seen several comments about recommendations for 1" to 2-3" between speakers and AT screens. I notice that those are for LCR speakers. This leads me to believe that subwoofers are a no-no behind AT screens. My setup could place not one, but two subwoofers behind a false wall. So, what's the party line on subwoofers and AT screens? The AT material is very interesting, just want to see if it comes with limitations on sub location.

PS: The speaker system I plan to buy includes two subs and they are recommended to be placed side by side at the front of the theater. Hence my question :-)

Thanks,

Chuck

I think that subs will be much less affected by being behind acoustically transparent material than your LCR's, and I certainly have no issues with my LCR behind my Seymour screen. I do not think this will be a problem.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong.


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post #1635 of 2773 Old 03-29-2012, 01:31 PM
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I never had any trouble with powerful subs near or behind my screen causing ripples. On the other hand, my shelf mounted projector is being rattled at some frequencies on reference listening and the image will slightly blur. Aftermarket Soborthane (SP?) feet under the projector helped a lot but not completely.
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post #1636 of 2773 Old 03-29-2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

Are you more apt to get hot spotting with a curved screen than without.

My sub will be behind an AT Screen also.

Zero hot-spotting with any weaves, curved or otherwise because they have very uniform luminance.

Subs behind AT screens are of no concern acoustically; that frequency range will go through any such material like it's not there. Forward-firing ports are another matter. They can have a screen (or fabric like 701) jumping quite noticably on explosions, etc. It is an easy fix, though, to rotate the sub 90 degrees so that the port isn't aimed at the screen. There is absolutely no acoustic downside to doing this.
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post #1637 of 2773 Old 03-29-2012, 08:41 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. What I was concerned about was the effect of the subs on the screen, not the ability of the screen to pass the audio. I think that the subs would be located below the screen, so maybe it's not so bad. Whatever I put in front of them I expect will be vibrating or moving. I'd prefer that it not be the screen!

Chuck


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post #1638 of 2773 Old 03-29-2012, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

Are you more apt to get hot spotting with a curved screen than without.

My sub will be behind an AT Screen also.

No, actually a curved screen helps reduce hot spotting for screens with high gains, but for screens under perhaps 1.3 gain there are no uniformity benefits to curving the frame.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #1639 of 2773 Old 03-30-2012, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Miller View Post

Thanks for all the replies. What I was concerned about was the effect of the subs on the screen, not the ability of the screen to pass the audio. I think that the subs would be located below the screen, so maybe it's not so bad. Whatever I put in front of them I expect will be vibrating or moving. I'd prefer that it not be the screen!

Chuck

Subs located below the screen will not have any affect on the screen.

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post #1640 of 2773 Old 03-30-2012, 06:28 AM
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Thanks Mike. That's good to know. I'm sure I'll have plenty of other vibrations to deal with.

Chuck


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post #1641 of 2773 Old 03-30-2012, 01:19 PM
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Hey Chris,

Stopped by the house today to drag in the new frame and masking panels...

Unboxed everything and man, those masking panels are no joke.

I was expecting something lightweight... these are high quality, sturdy aluminum frames with the AT material wrapped around them...

Can't wait to get them in use, but first need to swap out the frames...

Thanks so much for your flexibility and attention to detail. Top notch organization and quality product produced in the USA! I'll get the original frame back to you ASAP.


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post #1642 of 2773 Old 03-30-2012, 04:37 PM
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[quote=Cam Man;21845382]Zero hot-spotting with any weaves, curved or otherwise because they have very uniform luminance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

No, actually a curved screen helps reduce hot spotting for screens with high gains, but for screens under perhaps 1.3 gain there are no uniformity benefits to curving the frame.

Cheers,
Chris

Good to know, thanks guys.

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post #1643 of 2773 Old 04-02-2012, 01:33 PM
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I just received my sample from Chris (well a couple days ago) and put it up on the screen wall next to the Carada samples. I had my wife come down to sit in the estimated location of the front row and give me her thoughts. She thought the XD looked very similar to the Brilliant White from Carada but prefered the XD. I also asked her and I looked myself and at 9.5"....we couldn't see the weave at all. Note that this is just with a very bright shop light shining on it from behind.

The cool thing about this material is the feel. I was a little concerned about what I would be in store for if I used it for my DIY scope screen (have had the vinyl Carada screen samples for a while and they don't seem to be very sturdy), but having the sample in my hands assured me that this XD fabric WILL take tensioning quite well.

I also like how small the holes are and until you hold it up close, it is hard to see the holes.

Anyway, I will be starting my screen wall possibly tonight and soon Chris will be getting my order for screen fabric.

Thanks for promptly sending out the sample, Chris.

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post #1644 of 2773 Old 04-02-2012, 07:04 PM
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My EN4K screen material with mounting accessories arrived a couple of days ago. Seeing the beautiful fabric put a big smile on my face. Today I got it all mounted in my DIY frame construction. I'm excited to see it in action. I must say this is an amazing fabric. Testing it with the yet-to-be-worn-in Klipsch speakers behind the screen revealed only a very marginal attenuation of the treble. Nothing some calibration on the RX-A3010 cannot fix.

Despite some long weeks waiting I'm very happy about this choice. Now, if would just be able to decide on the projector...
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post #1645 of 2773 Old 04-03-2012, 12:39 AM
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How did you managed to get the EN4k material? I thought you have to buy it with the frame, not diy.

Manoj
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post #1646 of 2773 Old 04-03-2012, 12:43 AM
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I have a question about backing to be used behind a screen. I read in another thread that if we use white backing behind AT screen, it helps with the screen gain. does that makes sense, instead of using black? I want to do approx 128" wide, 16:9 screen, so brightness is quite important for me.

Also, has anyone here used black muslin as the backing? It would be interesting to hear the experience.

Manoj
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post #1647 of 2773 Old 04-03-2012, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adude View Post

How did you managed to get the EN4k material? I thought you have to buy it with the frame, not diy.

SE has a DIY product called "Craftsman" which consists of the fabric, mounting profiles, the black backing and a particular tool to attach the fabrics to the profiles.
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post #1648 of 2773 Old 04-03-2012, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toref View Post

SE has a DIY product called "Craftsman" which consists of the fabric, mounting profiles, the black backing and a particular tool to attach the fabrics to the profiles.

The Craftsman product is EN4K


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post #1649 of 2773 Old 04-03-2012, 05:28 AM
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http://www.screenexcellence.com/products/craftsman.html

"The Craftsman is only for skilled installers"......

How skilled are we???

Chuck


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post #1650 of 2773 Old 04-03-2012, 08:15 AM
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Dang, and I just bought XD mateial last week. Oh well.

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