The official SeymourAV center stage screen thread! - Page 89 - AVS Forum
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post #2641 of 2718 Old 06-06-2014, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

Get free samples of all of them, throw them up on a dark wall and view them in a dark room with your projector showing a snow scene or something similar and see what you think.

Yeah, I should get a sample of the UF. It's just hard to make a judgement based on a copy paper sized piece of material. I just need to pull the trigger and get something. I have a vinyl banner the same size as the screen I want which a friend of mine made. He works at a print shop and even put the black borders around it and grommets. Problem is that it is not accoustically transparent (far from it) and it reflects a lot of light but not evenly. The brightness is kind of addictive but I could never live with it as a permanent solution. Too shiny and I can see the texture of the material. It has been useful for placement of other things in the room however.
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post #2642 of 2718 Old 06-06-2014, 09:19 AM
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You can pay a little money and get larger samples if you want, but even at 8x11" piece of screen (remember to put a black backing on it!) will let you know if you can see the weave from your seating distance -- which is perhaps the second most critical factor.

You'll also get a sense of relative brightness (the other critical factor) though that can be deceptive with a bright background etc.
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post #2643 of 2718 Old 06-06-2014, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

Just placed my order for a XD AT Grommet Screen - 180'' wide image - 2.40"1 ... I am first on the list for when they get the next shipment... Now to start looking for the aluminum to make the screen frame. Does anyone know where you can get the angle brackets that go inside the rectangular tubing? I think we will be going 1x4 tubing with 2 center supports. If anyone has any info that might help in making a aluminum screen frame please let me know.
I built a minimulast wall and frame out of wood it worked really wall on my 126" w/gromments

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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

What I am doing is making a screen wall and then acoustically masking it down to whatever my current projector can handle... This way i will not have to buy another screen down the road if I get one that can handle the huge screen. I am using a Panasonic ae8000. The BenQ w1070 will be delegated to the MB with the 134" Jamestown screen.
You will love the pannasonic it has no problem lighting up the 126" wide screen. I use D cenima with total light control projected from around 16'6" (I have seen you in the panasonic thread latly did you get your issues solved?)

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Originally Posted by dropzone7 View Post

Interesting. I was starting to lean more towards the UF material because of my close front row seating distance (app. 9 feet) but he doesn't recommend it for screens larger than 8' to 9' wide. I'm planning on the 130" wide 2.35 fixed from from Seymour so it sounds like light loss would be too severe for a screen this size. I like the XD sample I have and I don't think the weave will be that visible from my front row. The second row will be occupied more often anyway so I don't think it's worth the light loss trade off to make the weave slightly less visible for the front row that will be occupied on rare occasion.
I sit 10'6" from a 126" wide screen you will not have any issues I think.
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post #2644 of 2718 Old 06-06-2014, 10:18 AM
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We will find out if I have a problem with the mount this weekend when the mount and projector arrive.

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post #2645 of 2718 Old 06-06-2014, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dropzone7 View Post

Interesting. I was starting to lean more towards the UF material because of my close front row seating distance (app. 9 feet) but he doesn't recommend it for screens larger than 8' to 9' wide. I'm planning on the 130" wide 2.35 fixed from from Seymour so it sounds like light loss would be too severe for a screen this size. I like the XD sample I have and I don't think the weave will be that visible from my front row. The second row will be occupied more often anyway so I don't think it's worth the light loss trade off to make the weave slightly less visible for the front row that will be occupied on rare occasion.

The reference of 8' to 9' is with respect to the seating distance to the screen due to his opinion of the material's texture, not screen size. The screen's maximum size would be instead dictated by seating distance, the room and the projector capabilities. The UF is about 20% lower gain than the XD, but with a reasonable screen size for 9' viewing I'd likely recommend the UF. If the "money seat" were say, 13' back and you were pushing the screen size and interested in 3D, then the XD starts to be the better choice.

Either way, we guarantee your satisfaction so if one doesn't work as well we can easily swap it for the other.

Cheers,
Chris
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post #2646 of 2718 Old 06-06-2014, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

I built a minimulast wall and frame out of wood it worked really wall on my 126" w/gromments
You will love the pannasonic it has no problem lighting up the 126" wide screen. I use D cenima with total light control projected from around 16'6" (I have seen you in the panasonic thread latly did you get your issues solved?)
I sit 10'6" from a 126" wide screen you will not have any issues I think.
Our new room will be a batcave... 100% light control. smile.gif

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post #2647 of 2718 Old 06-06-2014, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

Our new room will be a batcave... 100% light control. smile.gif

They are awesome.
We avoided can lights in the ceiling to avoid as much noise transfer through the floor as possible. Just in case you're thinking the same thing I'd suggest you get a good flash light and always store it in the same place. Same goes for your remotes.
No regrets.
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post #2648 of 2718 Old 06-06-2014, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by brwsaw View Post

They are awesome.
We avoided can lights in the ceiling to avoid as much noise transfer through the floor as possible. Just in case you're thinking the same thing I'd suggest you get a good flash light and always store it in the same place. Same goes for your remotes.
No regrets.
We are putting LEDs in the soffit for lighting... Lights will go on before and after the movie. During a movie we will only have rope LED along the floor behind the front row of seats.

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post #2649 of 2718 Old 06-06-2014, 11:15 PM
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Black is black.
I find even a night light can be too much.

Wish someone would invent silent popcorn, then we'd be all set.
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post #2650 of 2718 Old 06-07-2014, 10:59 AM
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With enough butter, your popcorn would be silent. :P

Chris
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post #2651 of 2718 Old 06-07-2014, 02:40 PM
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Today i have been shopping for materials to make the screen frame, and this is what i have found out. for a 180" x 75" frame...

To have the basic frame made out of 1x3" aluminum welded... It is about $700
To make the basic frame out of Extruded T channel Aluminum... It is about $400 Here is the stuff I am looking at... http://www.automation4less.com/store/proddetail.asp?prod=650001 I saw where someone else did one a few years back on a smaller frame and used 1.5x1.5", and said that if you need more strength you could go 1x2"... Would I really need a 1x3 or should I go with the smaller size?


Pluses of the Extruded aluminum...

1:No need to drill and tap 80 holes for the pegs to hold the o-rings that connect the screen grommets to the frame

2: I can easily use "L" brackets to stand off the screen from a 2x4 frame behind the screen frame... Plus it means I don't have to use as large of a piece of aluminum as it is already supported to prevent sagging.

3: Cost of the aluminum is is 1/2 of the basic welded frame.

4: easy to attach a would frame to as it can be done with t-nuts.

5: Easy to locate the t-nuts in relation to the grommets.

Negatives of extruded aluminum...

1: buying 80 t-nuts, and corner connectors.


Pluses of welded frame:

1: Rock solid construction

2: Drill the holes for the frame anywhere rather than have to line up the screws with the "t" slots.

Negatives of welded frame:

1: Awkward to transport to our home.

2: Have to accurately drill, and tap 80 holes for dowels (or something for the o-rings to attach to).

So it looks like it is the most economical to go the Extruded Aluminum route for ease of construction, time, and price. I am thinking of using standoffs every 3-5 feet... I am thinking this will keep the frame true, and prevent the scree frame from sagging.

Does anyone see any possible problems with this scenario?

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post #2652 of 2718 Old 06-07-2014, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

With enough butter, your popcorn would be silent. :P

Chris

My popcorn is a non issue (butter good). Its the evil minions in front of and beside me think its a game, lets see who can be the loudest...
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post #2653 of 2718 Old 06-07-2014, 05:10 PM
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If you haven't seen it, David Beck's theater just won the home theater of the month. There is a fantastic degree of consideration to every element. This one should be archived as Best Practices 101. They should have a CEDIA class where they simply page through and take notes.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1534823/ht-of-the-month-the-savoy

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post #2654 of 2718 Old 06-12-2014, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by dropzone7

Interesting. I was starting to lean more towards the UF material because of my close front row seating distance (app. 9 feet) but he doesn't recommend it for screens larger than 8' to 9' wide. I'm planning on the 130" wide 2.35 fixed from from Seymour so it sounds like light loss would be too severe for a screen this size. I like the XD sample I have and I don't think the weave will be that visible from my front row. The second row will be occupied more often anyway so I don't think it's worth the light loss trade off to make the weave slightly less visible for the front row that will be occupied on rare occasion.


The reference of 8' to 9' is with respect to the seating distance to the screen due to his opinion of the material's texture, not screen size. The screen's maximum size would be instead dictated by seating distance, the room and the projector capabilities. The UF is about 20% lower gain than the XD, but with a reasonable screen size for 9' viewing I'd likely recommend the UF. If the "money seat" were say, 13' back and you were pushing the screen size and interested in 3D, then the XD starts to be the better choice.

Either way, we guarantee your satisfaction so if one doesn't work as well we can easily swap it for the other.

Cheers,
Chris

Thanks Chris. The "money seat" is about 13-14' back and my projector will do 3D though that was not a factor in my buying decision there. My interest in it will be minimal at most. I know I would be pushing screen size for 3D and would need every bit of brightness so the XD is probably what I will end up with. Not to mention, I'm guessing that after calibration my projector will end up much less bright even in 2D viewing so that's another reason to go 1.0 gain or more I suppose. The room is pretty much a batcave so I don't think light levels will be a problem.
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post #2655 of 2718 Old 06-27-2014, 04:07 PM
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Here's an unaltered screenshot of the new Matinee Black material. I've been enjoying working on these new materials over the past couple years, even though they're not AT. In my world, every home theater should be a dedicated, darkened, wall full of audio/video perfection (btw, looking forward to David's open "theater" tomorrow!), but also need to realize that not everyone can have true batcaves. There are ceilings that the boss won't allow to be painted, and windows that need stay open.

Cheers,
Chris
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post #2656 of 2718 Old 06-28-2014, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by blastermaster 

Grats, dropzone! My upgrading has been incremental as well. I just recently upgraded from a Home Theater Brothers lens to a Panamorph UH480. It was such a smoking deal I couldn't pass it up. That Isco looks awesome. You probably don't need a curved screen, but I'm telling you it is so cool and the lens gives you a legitimate excuse. I made mine myself using spandex initially, then upgraded to the XD material. All in it was under $500 for a 138" curved screen (check out my build thread if you're interested). The curve takes some getting used to, but now I love it. A side benefit is that it seemed to me that there was less light bouncing off the side walls because of the curve thus better contrast. I'm sure you'll be happy with a flat screen as well, but I thought I'd chime in.


I am glad I got a curved then
I'm sure movies look awesome on a curved screen. What about sports?

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post #2657 of 2718 Old 07-03-2014, 09:15 AM
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Hey guys I have a quick question. I am getting ready to build my first theater. I have been in contact with Jamestown and received conflicting information from him and a few other sites. He informed me his screen with the Center Stage XD do not include the optional black backing. He did state that it could be added for an additional fee, in the $200-$350 range. I am wondering if the optional black backing is needed. I will be building a false wall about 32" deep, with Klipsch Speakers behind it. I love the Idea of the Center Stage XD fabric, but am not sure if I need the black backing or, if I should opt to get it without. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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post #2658 of 2718 Old 07-03-2014, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Toid View Post
Hey guys I have a quick question. I am getting ready to build my first theater. I have been in contact with Jamestown and received conflicting information from him and a few other sites. He informed me his screen with the Center Stage XD do not include the optional black backing. He did state that it could be added for an additional fee, in the $200-$350 range. I am wondering if the optional black backing is needed. I will be building a false wall about 32" deep, with Klipsch Speakers behind it. I love the Idea of the Center Stage XD fabric, but am not sure if I need the black backing or, if I should opt to get it without. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I'd guess only about 5% of XD screens need the secondary black backing layer, as it's typically easy to adequately darken the surfaces behind the screen. If you can get it about 75% darkened, be it gray, brown, maroon, navy, or whatever, it will be enough. Black is of course ideal, but the XD is more light opaque than others due to its tighter weave and reflective thread coating. We always recommend paint or wall treatments first.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #2659 of 2718 Old 07-03-2014, 10:37 AM
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I'd guess only about 5% of XD screens need the secondary black backing layer, as it's typically easy to adequately darken the surfaces behind the screen. If you can get it about 75% darkened, be it gray, brown, maroon, navy, or whatever, it will be enough. Black is of course ideal, but the XD is more light opaque than others due to its tighter weave and reflective thread coating. We always recommend paint or wall treatments first.

Cheers,
Chris
Thanks Chris! I can treat both the back walls and custom speaker stands in black. If that is the case, then I will save myself the extra money and get the XD Screen without the backing. I must admit, I am very excited to get an XD Screen! I have wanted one ever since I started planning this, but was too afraid to make my own. I'll be pairing this with a BenQ w1070 in a completely light controlled environment. Thanks again!
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post #2660 of 2718 Old 07-03-2014, 11:45 AM
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Alright, one more question. I notice that Seymour now offer a curved frame. I will be ordering a 16x9 screen and using it only with the benq w1070 projector. I will not be using any other lenses on it. With this in mind, is the curved screen actually better for all applications? Or is this just for people with anamorphic lenses? I really want to do it right. I know the XD material is the way to go for sure! I am a little confused on if the curved screen will distort a normal picture or is the preferred way to go. Thanks guys!
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post #2661 of 2718 Old 07-03-2014, 12:47 PM
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You usually only use a curved screen with an anamorphic lens to counter the pincushion when the lens is in place for 2.35 presentations. With a 16:9 screen and no lens, there's no need for a curved screen unless you like the look of the screen compared to a flat one. With a curved screen you will have to overscan the image a little to hide the barrel distortion.

Sometimes the curve can be useful for countering reflections onto light coloured walls, but I've never meaured or seen any measures that say how good that is in comparison.

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post #2662 of 2718 Old 07-03-2014, 04:54 PM
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You usually only use a curved screen with an anamorphic lens to counter the pincushion when the lens is in place for 2.35 presentations. With a 16:9 screen and no lens, there's no need for a curved screen unless you like the look of the screen compared to a flat one. With a curved screen you will have to overscan the image a little to hide the barrel distortion.

Sometimes the curve can be useful for countering reflections onto light coloured walls, but I've never meaured or seen any measures that say how good that is in comparison.

Gary
Thanks Gary! This is very informative and useful information. I do like the look of the curved screen, but it seems like a flat surface is best for me.
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post #2663 of 2718 Old 07-04-2014, 07:16 AM
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Regarding the black backing material, is anything like that necessary with a fixed frame hung directly up against the wall? Is there any adverse effect to having AT material directly backed up to a bare surface? I'm thinking about light reflecting back into the viewing screen, etc. because of the holes in AT screens.
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post #2664 of 2718 Old 07-04-2014, 08:11 AM
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Are there any retractable UF owners here?

I was wondering about reflections and leakage from a flat panel and some gear behind such a screen.

In my situation I would have a plasma panel and some hardware otherwise dark fabric. I have the UF sample and it is clearly semi transparent. I only have a small sample so it is difficult to test. My understanding is that UF retractable does not have black backing.

Any experience?
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post #2665 of 2718 Old 07-05-2014, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pstam View Post
Regarding the black backing material, is anything like that necessary with a fixed frame hung directly up against the wall? Is there any adverse effect to having AT material directly backed up to a bare surface? I'm thinking about light reflecting back into the viewing screen, etc. because of the holes in AT screens.
The vast majority don't need the black backing layer. You can hang the screen right over in-wall speakers, as only 1" clearance to the drivers is minimum. If the colors behind the screen are dark, light reflection won't be an issue.

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post #2666 of 2718 Old 07-05-2014, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by clausdk View Post
Are there any retractable UF owners here?

I was wondering about reflections and leakage from a flat panel and some gear behind such a screen.

In my situation I would have a plasma panel and some hardware otherwise dark fabric. I have the UF sample and it is clearly semi transparent. I only have a small sample so it is difficult to test. My understanding is that UF retractable does not have black backing.

Any experience?
The retractable UF screens also have the secondary black backing layer, so don't worry about reflections from a panel behind the screen. Retracting over a flat panel is very common. You still won't want any light sources, however, such as LED lights, as they can show.

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post #2667 of 2718 Old 07-05-2014, 10:19 AM
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Ah wonderful. No problem then. It will be otherwise completely dark behind it and zero lightsources.
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post #2668 of 2718 Old 07-08-2014, 10:53 AM
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There still seems to be much debate (in other threads) about how visible the weave on the XD is compared to say the Falcon. Those of you that own an XD or have seen both, what do you think about a 130" wide 2.35 screen at 12.5' viewing distance? Any issue with seeing the weave? I'm afraid the new UH or the Enlightor would hurt too much with the .8 gain.

So, that leaves me between the Falcon and XD, and from what I've read, the XD probably has a bit more gain and possibly a more neutral color.
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post #2669 of 2718 Old 07-08-2014, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Tnedator View Post
There still seems to be much debate (in other threads) about how visible the weave on the XD is compared to say the Falcon. Those of you that own an XD or have seen both, what do you think about a 130" wide 2.35 screen at 12.5' viewing distance? Any issue with seeing the weave? I'm afraid the new UH or the Enlightor would hurt too much with the .8 gain.
I sit about 13' from my XD and cannot see any weave.

You can get a small sample from Seymour if you'd like to try it yourself.
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post #2670 of 2718 Old 07-08-2014, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Tnedator View Post
There still seems to be much debate (in other threads) about how visible the weave on the XD is compared to say the Falcon. Those of you that own an XD or have seen both, what do you think about a 130" wide 2.35 screen at 12.5' viewing distance? Any issue with seeing the weave? I'm afraid the new UH or the Enlightor would hurt too much with the .8 gain.

So, that leaves me between the Falcon and XD, and from what I've read, the XD probably has a bit more gain and possibly a more neutral color.
The XD and the Falcon test very similar in gain - essentially no difference.
The XD tests more color accurate. (Looking at two samples side by side I can't see the difference but I'm not very sensitive to color shift.)
The XD is less restrictive to high frequency sounds (measured).
The Falcon has slightly less visible weave close up, but at 12.5 feet viewing distance they would appear equally smooth.

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