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Goosystems rollable paint ready to go

9K views 92 replies 29 participants last post by  KBK 
#1 ·
GooSystems ScreenGoo paint is now ready to go. Rolls perfectly straight out of the can.


Nominal gain characteristic of 1.4


This was always the big wonderment. What would the gain of the production version be? It turns to be about a very, very nice, controlled 1.4, with an excellent gain curve for a paint.


introductory price of $100 per liter. dealer inquires invited. Delivery times are now. in stock. paint all you want, we'll make more.


I'm quitting my new job, I am so confident of the product. you see, I JUST tried the production product for the first time. it is excellent. better than any of the prototypes or experimental versions.


e-mail, at this time, as to payment options and delivery scheduling.


This the beginning of a sea change in screen options.
 
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#27 ·
Ken,

How does the Screen Goo work on unpainted sheet rock? Do I need to prep with anything before primer painting? I was going to make a screen like Mark Torre built but use your paint. I have a HPLV automotive spray gun. Do you think it would work with that? I will be getting in touch with you soon about ordering some Goo.


Mike
 
#28 ·
Mike:


The behavior of the product is of such a nature that it is one of the best paint products to handle for those who are used to and desire a high consistency product, for the maximum obtainable quality of results.


To put it another way: the quality of the product is that the professional sprayer will instantly realize that they are using some of the best, if not the best paint product they've handled. They will have a very short learning curve, due to the fact that it handles so well.


Layering works best, so a layer of white laytex on the gyprock won't hurt, and is very benificial.
 
#29 ·
I don't like to do this sort of comparative thing.. but everyone else seems to do it. Companies who produce product, obtain samples of other folk's product, and then.. compare it to theirs. Make theirs look good, while holding up the other's product. It has always seemed a bit offensive to me. I'd don't have to like it, and I don't.


That being said...here goes.


Bob Sorel, said he wanted three-d, as much as possible. So, I made him up a design that will probably become a standard. One can use the screen Primer material to control gain of the mix, but it will be very, very fine, as it comes.


What follows is for comparative purposes only.


What he will be getting is a mix that is about 1.6 gain.


It has slightly higher output on axis (straight on viewing) than that of Stewart Ultramatte 150. It has slightly better color balance than Ultramatte 150 when viewed off axis, and some may argue it is better on-axis as well.


So, in essence, it has a better gain curve (more output off the primary viewing axis, which brings more brightness uniformity..which enhances the 'window' effect), and better color balance, and about the same immunity to room problems (interference from light in the room, including that from the screen itself) as that of Ultramatte 150. The gain curve is about that of studiotek 130, when it comes to it's off axis response area. As a matter of fact, it bests Studiotek 130 in this area. It peaks slightly more than Ultramatte 150 in it's on axis gain peak, but that will abate after the ScreenGoo has dried. As a matter of fact, it has only been on the wall as a test material for two days, and it will DEFINITELY improve. Ultimately, I expect, after drying (after the water comes out) it will match or best Ultramatte 150 in it's peak gain curve. And it bests Studiotek 130 in the off axis gain results, which is probably quite impressive. Overall, it is a balance and combination of both screens...with better output and color.


Is that enough disclosure for you? I think it's an excellent bargain and product, but maybe that's just me. And, consider that $145 for the pair of products (ScreenGoo CRT primer,and ScreenGoo CRT) allows one to make almost ANY combination of these characteristics that they may desire.


The same goes for the digital mixes.


Remember, this is our first released product. It will only get better.
 
#30 ·
Wow, I am impressed! Ken, you custom mixed a batch just for me? Now that's something I couldn't buy at any price from anyone else! I am very excited about this project and plan on constructing a screen of the very highest quality, not just a "good bang for the buck" screen. From the little comment I have made, Ken has figured out EXACTLY what I am looking to achieve, and fom his last post, I can tell that he has come up with a winner. Thanks to Ken's hard work, I feel confident that this will be the best screen possible, and a perfect match to my projector. Thanks, Ken, I am looking forward to this project with great anticipation :)


P.S. - Since Ken recommends the Wagner Power Painter, I am going to practice painting on an old good for nothing screen first, of course with cheap paint, not the GOOD stuff, or should I say "the GOO stuff"...hehe.
 
#32 ·
Thanks Ken for the info. I will be getting with you in a month or so to order some paint. I have a few other projects I must finish before I start another one.


Mike
 
#33 ·
On Screen gain:


The thing about screen gain, is it's not just the peak gain you have to look at, it's the uniformity of the colors, due to shift from hotspotting. The other thing is white field uniformity, with respects to this as a problem. A deciding factor in such is also the 'change' in gain, which occurs within the angle of view (from center point) that a viewer may encompass.


When the gain of the screen changes by too large an amount in this given parameter, there is too much loss in image uniformity. This brings confusion to the human eye, and causes a loss in percievable contrast range, as well as image depth. The range of the human eye must be entertianed. the color shift causes it's own perceptual prolems, insofar as believability goes. Uniformity of field (of view, or angle of screen area encompassed in one's field of view), with respect to gian change is a hyper-critical area.


The maximum level of change over any given viewing angle using ScreenGoo (in the advised way), results in a gain change of less than, 1, on the highest gain mixture. Comparable screens have a gain change in the 1.3-1.45 range.


On a 1.3 gain screen, the white field uniformity is in the area of having a gain change of less than .35, at any angle of view, in a worst case scenario.


Basically, the pecieved gain of one of the GooSystems screens never drops below 0.95, at any angle of view. That's impressive output. Gain, with uniformity of output, and overall high output. With color fidelity.


All infinitely adjustable.
 
#34 ·
I would really like to hear some independent reviews of Ken's paint. I have read alot of posts by Ken touting it as a terrific product, and it may indeed be a terrific product, but I have not seen posts by anybody who has purchased the paint, applied the paint, let it dry completely (1 month?), and then used the screen and say that it is much better for the money than Behr ultra-white, a reasonable competitor.


If somebody has tested it completely and posted their opinions, then I have obviously missed it. But, I will have to admit, Ken is doing one heck of a job of promoting his product.


Before I spend $120 on a quart of paint, I want to hear some independent reviews, see some results, and clear unequivocal statements that the results from goosystems paint are $380 better ([$100 X 4]-$20) than Behr.
 
#35 ·
I've been trying to think of a polite reply to the above post, but for the life of me, i can't.


Best I can do is this:


If I was given a free screen from any company on the planet, or given the choice of having to pay for,and utilize my own product(have to make it, and roll it myself), i would unquestionably choose my own product.


Not because it is mine (no ego, no self promotion, all bull aside), but I feel it performs better. I would not have gone to market if i did not feel it performed better.


Anyone can make a product that is as good as another's. That has never been a problem in any marketplace, or any product range. The trick is to exceed what is currently available, and deliver it at a better price.
 
#36 ·
Ken,


Please do not take comments as an affront. Take them as a challenge. If your product is what you truly say it is, then gushing recommendations will come forth, leading to more business for you!
 
#37 ·
Well, this is where I am at.


I sent Bob Sorel a mix so he could develop a nice screen for himself. What happened, is Murphy's law hit me,as a it usually does. I came to a noticeably higher level of perfection in the design...after I had sent it out to him. So, to make a long story short, I am sending him a NEW ScreenGoo mix. This one requires NO messing with, and is a 1.35 gain screen, right out of the can. It is slightly, I mean slightly higher in output than that of Studiotek 130 when viewed on axis, and definitely more output when viewed off axis. Basically it equals the output of matte screens when viewed off axis.


This means that white field uniformity is as good as it can be.. with incredible color fidelity across the board, and with high output overall, to boot. This high level of uniformity in output means that one can be off seated axis anywhere in a given room, and suffer no (or very little, if any) perceivable loss in image output levels. Those sitting on axis, get a nice, broad, 1.35 gain hump, with no perceivable colorshift or hotspot, at all. This also means that you can close in on the screen, and suffer no loss in the believability of the image. Say, 8 feet away from a 9 foot wide image. The fidelity is high enough that it engages the peripheral part of your vision properly, and vertigo creeps in. This is what film is famous for,and is critical to a believable image. That's white field uniformity coming back at you. Very important. In most ways, more important that 3-d effects of high gain screens. If the fidelity is not there across a given range of screen surface, the human visual mechanism's cues are not properly engaged. I was very surprised, given that I love the wild contrast ranges of higher gain screens. Ultimately, I think I'll prefer lower gain screens. They DO require a high output projector, though. Of course, screen size counts.


So, yeah, there it is, and it's in a can, and it's cheap. This is what I set out to do, about 2 years ago.
 
#38 ·
EDIT: I have found that these overly explicit instructions tend to make people paraniod about using the ScreenGoo. They are written like youhave never seen paint before in your life. If you can handle an application of premium paints..and can do it very well..then these instructuions can be largely ignored. Read them of course.. it's important to do so. But, like assembling your kid's tricycle, just throw them over your shoulder..and proceed at will.

**********

I just e-mailed this to a guy who has bought a greyscreen mixture, and I think it is relevant to all screen painting endeavors, so, here it is:


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Make sure you have a clean area to work in, basically, the ability to do a full clean roller stroke, with a roller,and a handle attached to the roller.(full size handle, about 4.5 feet, so you can reach cleanly)


If you are using a wall, mask off the area with some tape and plastic, if you have to. Your painting strokes will have to be even, and run off the edge of the screen. Possibly as far as a foot. Make sure the masking is in place.. a short stroke to prevent going on the the wall will damage the results of the screen surface in that area..which means bad screen characteristics in that area. Is this what you want? NO. So, make the masking stick out past the screen edge limits by about 1 foot, so you don't have to worry as much. 8 inches might be enough. Whatever you feel is best for your painting skills.


You cannot paint unsupported fabric, as it will flex, and the roller will not be flat to the surface of the material, as far as evenness of surface pressure goes. (this point is specific to rolling, and does not matter when spraying) The material would have to be taped to a wall or the like, painted, then dry, and then put on a frame.


Remember, this is a paint with a very complex particle suspension..and is basically a high grade screen coating in a can. the way the system sits on the surface is critical to the outcome, so control of the roller is your arbiter of the outcome. I am emphasizing this merely because I want you to understand that the results of this lie squarely on your shoulders, as far as painting skill and technique goes. Follow instructions, and you will be fine.


You will need:


A foam 1/2, to 3/8 yellow foam stain or finish roller, possibly two, to keep the speed of the applications up (and to make sure you use a dry roller each coating. Water in a roller will create slipping of the roller when it is loaded with paint, so this is emphatically not recommended. I completely dry my rollers between applications. (while the primer is drying)


A decent roller, and a handle that will not twist, bend, or loosen during the application. Remember, evenness of application is paramount, and the rollers tend to put more pressure on the attached side of the roller, as opposed tot he open end of the roller (where the actual foam roller slides on. A roller that is wired to each end of the foam roller would be nice, but I have never seen one. Un-even pressure is your enemy.


One paint tray, of course.


A surface to paint on. Solid, even, and smooth. Non-porous, as well. If you are using a hardboard surface, like a sheet of gyprock (sheetrock) or the like, it actually turns out better if you place it on the floor in a clear area, with good lighting. Your painting strokes are more perfect and linear. This is due to the fact that you don't have to pivot the motion of the paint stroke through both arms.. just one.


This allows you to thin the mixture of topcoat by a bit more. This increases the evenness of the topcoat in it's settling characteristics..and improves the textural evenness of the overall surface that you will achieve. However.. the slightly more water thinned topcoat is more likely to slip during application as far as the roller behavior goes, so a very cleanly cut roller, that is evenly loaded with paint, and has easy frictionless motion on the roller handle mechanism is important. Once again, this directly equates to finished screen quality. The results achieved via this method can directly approach that of spraying. If I am doing a screen for myself, and am rolling, I much prefer the floor method of application. Results are more consistent, and lean towards perfection.


There is no reason you can't achieve a excellent result with a screen painted directly on a wall; it's just that the sheet-on-floor trick has the potential to work that-much-better.



Prepping for painting:


You will have to take one half of the primer out of the can (500 ml) and place it in a suitable mixing container.. for a average sized screen. (52"x96" or so). This half liter of paint, can be slightly thinned with water, to slow the drying slightly and to make the surface settle better. Take that half liter of paint and add about 50ml (one tenth.. NO MORE!!) of clean water to it, and stir it, with a mixing bit on a cordless speed drill, or variable speed drill, for about 10-15 minutes (minimum 10 minutes), making sure no part of the paint has not been mixed. This is required due to the fact that the particle size is so small, and so consistent..that it wants to clump, and must be separated. Remember, the amount of particle suspension in this paint is much higher than any paint you have ever used.. and it must be worked with-not against.


More mixing time>>> directly equals better results.


When you mix the paint.. it will aerate, or cavitate in the mixing blade, and tiny bubbles will get into the mix. This is virtually guaranteed. Depending on the thinness of the mixture you are comfortable with, the air will take time to come out. The air bubbles are not really a problem, but you can wait a bit too see the results of bubbling if you wish. I personally don't worry about it too much, as the paint mix is usually thin enough that most bubbles come out easily, unless really vigorous mixing has been used (ie:, 1200 rpm stirring/mixing, for 20 minutes) and the mix is overly thick.


You will need about 300 watts of lighting. Maybe one 60-100 watt lightbulb on each side of the screen so you are not searching for problems spots.. that you cannot see, while the screen is drying..and becoming unworkable. Lighting is critical. Set this up first. make sure that the lights are placed so you can see the wet paint surface at any angle, without having to fight for it. If you cannot do such, you might not find a bad spot until you are trying to use the screen..and it will be too late by a long shot. The extra (third light) should be behind and above you, so you can see the top of the screen clearly and cleanly. Or, it could be handheld (a mechanic shop light), but be sure it's cord cannot EVER touch the surface of the screen, no matter how you hold the light.


This is water based acrylic paint, so it dries faster than most latex paints. You will have slightly less time to work with the paint than you are used to, if you have used house paint before.


So, one half of the primer, for one screen surface, approximately. More paint does NOT equal a better surface. The right amount equals the better surface, NOT QUANTITY of paint. Remember that.


Actual painting of screen...and technique:



Put the mixed and thinned primer mix in the tray. LIGHTLY load the roller with paint. basically, dab one side of the roller into the mix, roll it on the ribbed surface of the tray to rotate the roller, and then dab more paint on the roller. do this until a light load of paint is on the surface of the foam roller. Do NOT overload the roller, unless you are a VERY competent paint roller. The heavy rolling of the paint in the the foam roller will make it soaked,and it will flatspot and slide on the surface, instead of roll. You will end up with too much paint in one area..and not have the ability to move it around on the screen surface. So, light roller loading,and then do about 1/5th of the screen with that, approximately. then, load up the roller again. do it in small chunks, like that, moving across the screen. Using full strokes on the final finish roll, in each area. Check for evenness of rolling as you finish each area. So, to reiterate: lightly load the roller. use vertical strokes, that are evenly pressured (on each side of the roller) and the paint is very, very, evenly laid down,as far as thickness of layers goes. Even layering is critical, as well as evenness of surface texture and lumping is NOT allowed. So, some pressure can be used to spread it about, but the top finishing stroke must be evenly done in pressure and angles..across the ENTIRE area you are working on. Do NOT go back on your old work, to fix a minor flaw that you might finally see..as you move on to the next section. You will ruin what you already made, for sure. By this time, the paint (in the finished area) may be unworkable(not likely, but possible. best not to take chances.just don't screw up the first time). You will be taking a chance of ruining the surface texture in that area, and either removing or adding too much paint in that previous area as well.


So, finish the entire screen area in this manner, with the primer. This will give you a decent preview of what will be going on with the topcoat, the critical application here. The base primer coat is entirely MATTE characteristic in nature. Almost exactly 100% matte. As close to a gain of 1 as you are ever likely to see. with low gain, screen flaws are hidden,as they don't show up as flaws in surface output...it's even..everywhere! No gain change, so....it's hard to see after the screen has dried. That's a good thing, I guess. The higher the gain, the easier it is to see flaws in application. So, at this point, you have used up approximately 1/2 of the primer mix.


You can force dry this primer coating with a handheld hair dryer, if you wish. It will dry quite fast, at least as far as the surface drying goes. Keep the dryer back a bit, (8 to 12 inches from the screen, 1500 watt hair dryer) if the entire paint mix (the full liter)has been used, as the surface will shrink and split, if it dries too fast compared to the layer underneath. A thin coating of 1/2 liter (on a 54"x96") screen will have little danger of this happening.


After this has dried, then, you can sit back and use the screen to see how your PJ reacts to a perfect 1.0 matte screen characteristic. Use the opportunity to increase your familiarity with -and knowledge of- screens.


The ScreenGoo system final coating:


This is a gain adjusted, color corrected topcoat for the base matte mixture. it is slightly translucent..and will become more so, after it starts to dry, and will reach what is probably it's final 'gain' point.. only after a minimum of two weeks of drying. The gain you have on the first day, is not what you have on the second day..and not what you have on the third..etc. it is very close to it's final gain point after the first week...but will drift upwards (in gain) for up to one month. As you may guess, the balancing act it presents to designing such is tricky.. at best. Due tot he fact that it has gain..it it very important to have a clear understanding about getting it to lay down right,as flaws will creep into the area of being visible to the eye. Interestingly enough, usually not during viewing. Besides.. you only used HALF the mix.. So you can do it again, if you have to! You will very likely not have to do the screen again..but I believe in playing it safe.


So, there's your insurance.. built right into the product...or, if you are confident, you can make a HUGE screen, and do it once.(75 sq. ft or so)


Rolling the ScreenGoo is the same as the matte base primer coat. The primer must be dry, of course. The topcoat mix should be thinned, so it is very much like a average housepaint in thinness. maybe about the same amount of water as in the primer coat( about 50ml.) this will make it easier to act correctly as a topcoat,and settle more evenly. Being a second coating(after having done the primer), your familiarity with how the mixture works will be fully up to speed. this will drastically cut back the possibility of you getting negative results.


Follow the same instructions as the primer, when doing the topcoat. you can do the finial drying with a hair dryer, if you wish. this will protect the surface from damage. Consistency and character of the minute areas of the surface is PARAMOUNT. So, if there is a hair in the mix laid down on the surface, and you find it.... DON'T touch it. Leave it there, unless you have the ability to remove it with a set of tweezers, or the like. Damaging the character of the 'lie' of the paint on the surface is more foolish than having a hair in the mix. Trust me on this one.


basically, that's about it. not much more to say. Once you have done one screen, you can find yourself making them in about 1 hour or so.


Rolling works terrifically, but spraying works best. A thicker topcoat increases the gain, though,and stops the matte characteristics of the undercoat from coming through. This matte characteristic of the undercoat is what gives you the terrific off-axis gain gain characteristic. the two gains combine to give you a screen that is very viewable on axis, or off axis, depending on the gain of the topcoat.


Mixtures for rolling have a different behavior when they are sprayed,as far as the overall gain achieved goes,and this is almost entirely due to the thicker topcoating. So, a gain that could be at 1.35 as a rolled mixture, could end up quite different if it is sprayed. Basically, it would end up higher, like 1.5-1.6 or so.
 
#39 ·
Hi Ken,


Nice rundown. :)


I'm looking into the possibility of painting a curved screen with your super duper ScreenGoo, and wondered if I could use a roller to paint the surface of those from Harkness:
https://secure.room2.co.uk/harknesshall/product2.htm


Obviously, I wouldn't be triple stacking projectors like in the photo, nor would it be that large. I'm looking at about 2.8 meters wide by 2.1 meters tall. So I would probably also need to upgrade my paint to your latest 1.6 gain mix. :cool:


Here's hoping that one of these on-frame setups would be paintable with a roller: I've got nowhere to paint it with a spray gun.


TIA
 
#40 ·
As a DLP owner, I am definitely very interested in Goosystem's grey paint, and would like to learn as much as possible about it. But, so far, I never managed to get access to Goosystems's product web page. Ken, I think you have some kind of broken link... And sometimes, the whole WEB site doesn't respond (DNS issue?)... Thanks!
 
#41 ·
Yep!, The company the server is with went out of business.. bankrupt. It is a cable company, that had a separate Cable modem Company. That division went bankrupt, and has changed hands. IP's(?) changed quite often as things shift around.
 
#42 ·
FYI. Just in case you folks that may think the product is a bit of a joke:


The first place the product went to, about six months before anywhere else, is (and I was repeadedly asked for samples):


Disney Corp.
 
#43 ·
I have decided to have my screen professionally sprayed to get the best results possible. What are your procedural recommendations?


I have the Rockland Blackout Cloth, Your special D-ILA mixture, and a G-11 in a light controlled room. Screen will be a 1.78X1 105" diagonal. Thanks, Mark
 
#44 ·
There are two methods of approach available here. one, is to pre stretch the blackout cloth onto the final frame before painting, and the other, is to tape or tack the fabric to a wall,and then paint, and then stretch the finished material to the frame. Logic says, if you have the room to move the frame about (as get in and out of the house), you are better off putting the fabric on the frame and spraying the paint under those conditions. Tacking the material after painting leaves lots of opportunity for damage tot he surface to occur. I have done this,and it can be scary, when you have created the perfect surface.


The ScreenGoo Digital Primer does not just act as the primer, but as the gain control for the main mix (to tone it down from a high gain level of about 2 (at least in the mix you have, things are always evolving and improving) So, I recommend taking about 650-700 ml (approx 4/5ths) of the Primer,and spraying the rockland cloth with that, so as to prep the surface. The Primer should be thinned with WATER ONLY. the mixing time should be quite long, and extended. Putting it on a shaker at a pint shop is good thinking here, it gets the paint off of the sides of the container. Very little water needs to be added. Firstly, a Expert with paint spraying does not need to be told how much water to add, but must at least be cautioned about a particular mix's behavior ahead of time. So, start off with about 25 ml of water in the 650ml, to see how it thins. The break point on the thinning is very sharp, so little water is required to get it to the proper point for spraying. Caution is needed here. So, add small amounts of water, stir, and check the viscosity of the mixture after a few minutes of mixing with a mixing bit on a cordless drill. Once you get to the desired thinness, you can do a through mixing of the Primer.


Then spray the material with it, of course. It will lay down very well. Let this layer dry for a bit, maybe 4-5 hours, or a few days if you wish. Blending the topcoat layer with the primer layer might be a better idea, so doing the top coat the same day might work better. The two layers will blend a bit.


In your case, Mark, if the spray guy feels that the ScreenGoo topcoat, with the approximately 300 mls of Primer is enough to do TWO topcoats, you can have some fun.


1) You can add the entire 300ml to the ScreenGoo, and then spray two layers, or one thick one. One thick one will take about 3 weeks to dry, but the greatest changes in gain will occur in the first week. The gain will go UP. (the mix begins to get more transparent as the water leeches out) actual gain will be determined via spray tip size, pressure and technique used,and thinness of mixture. They will provide SOME variation, but not that much. Gain should come in at the 1.6-1.7 range, if it was a white screen. As a digital Grey screen it might come in at about the gain level of about 1, or just below that, say about .9 or so.


2) The fun part would be to do a single topcoat with part of the mix like so: Take about 200ml of the Primer, and add to the ENTIRE ScreenGoo Digital Grey mix. this will cut the gain to about the 1.8, 1.7 range if it was a white screen (see what I am getting at?). Then you wait for it to dry for a week. if you like the gain and result, pursue no further. Then, if the gain is too HIGH, which it might be for your tastes, well, you still have enough to do another coat.. and have some left over Primer to throw into that.. you see you did not use ALL of the primer in the full liter mix.. so, you have about 50-75ML of the Primer left over,to tone the remaining mix down, if desired. Control is by you, in a real situation, that concerns your situation alone.


Basically, high reflective gain will give you more immunity to room interactive problems, but can exacerbate hotspotting. Hotspotting with Digital PJ's is NOT anywhere near the issue it is with CRT units, where the problem is very noticeable. The lower light drop off problems in the corners with digital units makes high gain screens less problematic, which is good, as they (digital PJ's) NEED the room immunity this high gain provides. This is what allows you to realize contrast range at near blacks, on a grey screen. Lower gain screens will have interference problems from the room, and create a situation where the PJ/screen/room will wash out the 'near blacks'. Digital PJ's have a hard enough time with contrast range, they don't need to have problems with the screen as well.


Evidence to the point?>>> The high number of people who are more comfotable with high gain (2.0+ gain!!) white screens with their small digital PJ's.


Saving a small amount of the Primer, with the extra ScreenGoo, affords you the opportunity to test and check your own sensitivity, in your own room, with your own PJ. The situation is NOT dictated your PJ, but rather you, as the screen has become the VARIABLE.


This is -fundamentally-, in all practicality, the most correct situation possible.


There is the hassle of getting the second coat done at a later date, but any method chosen will produce a screen that is well worth the money spent on the product. The fact that it affords the creation of a screen to be totally custom to a given situation, puts it (ScreenGoo) on en entirely different performance plateau compared to other available solutions.
 
#45 ·
I now have a LT 150 in my posession,and will be designing a specific mix for it.


i expect it to be available in a week or so.
 
#47 ·
Hi,


Checkout http://website.yahoo.com/ .... That'll solve your web site problems. This is where my www.marky.com site is located at. Cheap and speedy. Pretty no frills, though.


I might even consider your gray ScreenGoo -- sounds like it'd make a great temporary screen -- if I don't get a GrayHawk right away after getting a DILA or similiar projector. This would be sometime in December....
 
#49 ·
That's the problem, Ron. Every one out here on the forum thinks they can just slpash some house paint on the wall, and they have a world class screen. Since I'm not holding their hand, and charging and arm and leg for the product.. how good can it be? So, no one seems to think much of it.


Mybe if I tripled the price.. people might buy it. I like fair deals, and have worked hard to produce one. Every single person who has tried the product so far, loves it. Problem is.. there ain't many, and they aren't speaking up.


i'll say it again..if you can roll paint well.. then it can be used to make a world class screen.


If you can spray it competently, not much out there can touch it, at all.


Where the HELL is the problem???


I'll give you an example. The other principle in the business started spraying the product, and fooled around with the basic CRT mixture.. pressures, spray distance, etc. He took 500ml of the mixture. put it in a cup sprayer with about 250ml of water. Got it just right for the cup gun. Cranked the spayer up to 90PSI, misted the screen with multiple layers.... and got results so fantastic.. he was jumping up and down to show me. I know, I know, I told him. You only have to try it. He made a rough texture (very much like a very well known 1.3 gain screen out there), with a gain character of 1.5 or so. Looks like a MUNCELL COLOR CHART PERFECT MATTE finish.. but it has gain.


In case you don't know what a muncell color chart is, they set the standard, OK?


Basically, an acomplished sprayer can do anything they want with the product. No limits.
 
#50 ·
We may end up just providing finished screens. THEN everyone will think they are cool, funky etc. No more access to the raw product. If the response stays the same, this avenue will be closed. Period.
 
#51 ·
I'm one of the slow movers as referenced above, but I am making progress. My screen is stretched & on it's frame at the paint shop ready for application. I'll start the actual paint application step this week. Thanks, Mark
 
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