Sony VPL-HW10 Owners AND Calibration Thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 780 Old 11-09-2008, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohlson View Post

What sharpness setting are you running?
I have be told by someone I trust to set sharpness at between 10-20 depending on the source. Isn´t sharpness of 40+ oversharpening the picture. What is your experience? Did you set a 40+ with DVE or any other calibration disc?

I too am running with the Sharpness around 42. I used some of the others posts and then double checked them with the AVIA Dvd. I originally had it up as high as 50, but brought it back down a bit. No real appreciable oversharpening, but definitely makes a big difference on perceptible blur.
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post #92 of 780 Old 11-09-2008, 01:48 PM
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I'm interested in how much input lag it has. Anyone using audio delay to get lip sync? If so what input signal do you use? If not 1080p would be great if that could be tested as it's supposed to be the fastest mode (no scaling done by the projector).

I'm also inteseted in how lens shift affects the image. I would need to go almost full horizontal lens shift and a little vertical lens shift for it to work as a drop in replacement in my living room. Would be great if someone could test this setting and tell if it affects cromatic aberation, focus or something else optically.

Mussla
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post #93 of 780 Old 11-09-2008, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Mag...

I am currently using max down adjustment of the image offset (projector sitting on a high shelf), and there is no impact on image quality. focus uniformity is good edge to edge and I see no chromatic fringing.

Can not comment on input lag other than to say XBOX response times feel normal.

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post #94 of 780 Old 11-09-2008, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I will be returning my Best Buy HW10 tomorrow. Tonight I used my PL CA-6x OpticOne Probe to take some light level readings.

Please note the OpticOne is not a sensitive as the CalMAN Chroma-5 I have coming, but it was good enough to present some interesting numbers.

The fixed Projector settings for each of the columns below were:

Contrast 90
Brightness 50
Color 50
Hue 50
Shaprness 25
Gamma OFF
Black Level OFF
Auto Iris 2

The variable settings were High & Low lamp mode, LOW & USER 4 color temps, and <347> factory CLOSE REG auto Iris setting and my <131> CLOSE REG Auto Iris setting.

This chart reflects light levels produced with 0% and 100% stimulus/IRE full field grayscale patterns. There have been no calibration adjusments made to the projectors grayscale or color tracking.



May I note a couple of things...

All of my <131> CLOSE REG low light settings were stable and the same for low and high lamp modes on the 0% pattern.

The measured brightness for the 0% pattern at the <347> CLOSE REG setting varied between the color temps and HI/LOW lamp modes. In every case, the hi lamp mode was slightly darker than the low lamp mode at 0% and brighter at 100%. This was unexpected and I have no explanation. I invite discussion regarding how the hi lamp mode would produce darker black levels.

The difference between ON/OFF contrast numbers for the <131> and <347> CLOSE REG Auto Iris settings is dramatic. The Chroma-5 probe may well better resolve the lower (0.009).

My technique was to pace the OpricONE probe toward the projector with it's shadow cast in the middle of the screen. I moved the probe as close as I could before the PL CA-6x software stopped rreporting FL readings. I believe it freezes up at a 600 fl value. I backed off so the brightest reading was below 550.

What are my conclusions? I should be careful to assume too much from the OpticOne probe, but the numbers are interesting. If similar readings were to be measured with the Chroma-5 probe and CalMAN software, I can only conclude the HW10 is capable of producing ON/OFF contrast on par with the VW80, which is rated at 60K:1. WE don't really know if the HW10 & VW80 share the same SXRD chip set and some features are just turned OFF, or if the HW10 is a slight derivative with very close ON/OFF contrast performance.

The <347> numbers are very close to those ON/OFF number reported by other folks, who might well improve their ON/OFF contrast with the CLOSE REG tweak.

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post #95 of 780 Old 11-09-2008, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a chart of readings with the IRIS OFF.



Again, the low lamp mode produced brighter blacks than the high lamp mode. Hmmmm...

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post #96 of 780 Old 11-09-2008, 06:49 PM
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Byte,
you need to use a light meter placed 1' or so from the pj to get accurate CR numbers from the high CR pjs. The fact that you are getting 50% more CR in high lamp mode is one symptom of the problems in trying to use a colorimeter.

What kind of iris off readings are you getting?
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post #97 of 780 Old 11-09-2008, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Houston...

You know the problems with the OpticONE and PL software. You can only get so close before it's either the probe or the software stops producing FL readings.

My 2nd chart was with the probe in the same place, and again the native contrast readings are close to what others have reported.

I will try again with the Chroma-5 and my new HW10 when it arrives.

EDIT: I redid the LOW-6500K measurements, moving the probe as close as I could before the FL readings locked up. I have changed the chart accordingly, including deleting the MID & HIGH color temp sections.

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post #98 of 780 Old 11-10-2008, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GezzaZ3 View Post

Hello Byte,

What are you going to exchange the HW-10 for??

I think he is exchanging his HW10 for another HW10...
Just read some posts earlier!

Bytehoven, you are confusing people, when you praise the HW10 for a whole thread and then start your posts with "I will be returning my Best Buy HW10 tomorrow" without explaination.


I really hope my HW10 is going to arrive during this week.
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post #99 of 780 Old 11-10-2008, 12:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Flausch...

Thanks. I changed the 1st sentence in the post to avoid the confusion.

I have been waiting on a call from Jason regarding placing my HW10 order from AVS, but he is a busy guy.

Gezza... I agree with your assessment of the HW10. Even though I have worked to figure out the HW10 and find all of it flaws and benefits, I have also been keeping an eye on the only other projectors on my short list, the VW80 and RS10. That doesn't make the HW10 any less impressive.

So far, the HW10 is better than anything I have seen at or below it's price. When the dust settles, the HW10 may not only come down in price, but might be as good as a number of projectors costing more.

Also, after tonight's measured confirmation regarding what I thought I was seeing with the service menu auto iris adjustment, I'm even more impressed with the HW10.

I have planned to have a new HW10 headed my way by end of day Tuesday unless something breaks on the VW80 or RS10.

This morning I called the Australian shops I found that sell/ship to the USA and they have no idea when they will be able to get the VW80. They confirmed it could be 4-6 weeks for the HW10 and VW80 to be restocked down under. The RS10 is still missing in action and my local seller had no idea when they would arrive, and since the delay is said to be due to software bugs...

Sorry if my last post generated confusion. If you were thinking of getting the HW10, do it. Having seen it yourself, you know what you are getting.

Cheers

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post #100 of 780 Old 11-10-2008, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

OK...

The projector was discounted because it didn't include the $900 lamp. I started lasughing while I hung up the phone.

Cheers

Those must be those new gold-plated lamps I've heard about - results in lower resitance to the photon flow.

ted
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post #101 of 780 Old 11-11-2008, 04:11 AM
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Hello,

I have one question, it may be obvious.

Off Switch, I can't seem to find one.

After powering down, are you suppose to leave it in stand by???

My old one had an on/off switch.

Set her up, had no problem. She is a big girl.!!!

It looks very sharp and clear. Only have one BR movie. Die hard 4.!!!!

Must go blockbuster to hire some more BR's

Thanks,

Gerry.
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post #102 of 780 Old 11-11-2008, 04:32 AM
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Hey Guys,

One more question,

On the last page on the Info,

It says, 1080P/60!!!

What should this be on 1080P/24??

How do you change it??

Thanks,

Gezza.
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post #103 of 780 Old 11-11-2008, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GezzaZ3 View Post

Hey Guys,

One more question,

On the last page on the Info,

It says, 1080P/60!!!

What should this be on 1080P/24??

How do you change it??

Thanks,

Gezza.

if your br player supports it, that's set at the player.

as far as on/off, the projector has a delayed shutdown builtin
to prevent heat damage (the fans will run a bit after
the bulb shuts down).

although the remote doesn't have it, discrete IR on and off are
available if you use the vw100 codes for your third party remote.
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post #104 of 780 Old 11-11-2008, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GezzaZ3 View Post

Hey Guys,

One more question,

On the last page on the Info,

It says, 1080P/60!!!

What should this be on 1080P/24??

How do you change it??

Thanks,

Gezza.

Feed it 1080P/24 instead of 1080P/60.
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post #105 of 780 Old 11-11-2008, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello Everyone...

I have gone back and deleted some of my own off topic posts. I suggest others do the same so we keep the discussion in this thread to operational and calibration topics.

Please post any HW10 topics not related to function or calibration to the...

Sony VPL-HW10 Just Arrived Thread

I have provided the link to the thread at the top of the HW10 links in the 1st post.

Anything we can do to preserve this thread for function and calibration specific discussion will better serve our own needs and those of other HW10 owners.

Thanks

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post #106 of 780 Old 11-11-2008, 04:04 PM
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After 112 hours with this projector, below are the settings I have found to be the most visually appealing in my environment and with my equipment. This is my first projector and I'm very happy with it (and so are my friends). I thought I'd share with the hope that it may help someone else. As I can't/won't make any more changes to the environment, if anyone has thoughts on tweaks to my settings for a better picture, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

My equipment:

VPL-HW10
Carada 106 BW Precision Screen
PS3
Dish VIP-622 (Dish HD Absolute service)
STR-DA5300ES

My environment: The nook in which the screen has been placed, including the HVAC duct immediately above it, have been painted black with Sherwin Williams Promar 400 B30 B 400 Flat Black. The other walls and the ceiling are off-white and the carpet is light tan. There is a tiny amount of ambient light during night-time viewing. The projector is on a bookshelf approximately 15' from the screen.

Picture Mode: Standard
Advanced Iris: Auto 1
Lamp Control: High
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 55
Color: 60
Hue: 50
Color Temp: Middle
Sharpness: 35 (In some Blu-Ray movies, I adjust it down to 5)
NR: Low
MPEG NR: Low/Low
Film Mode: Auto
Black Level Adj. High
Gamma Correction: Gamma 3
Color Space: Wide (It seems like everyone else is using Normal, when using the AVS HD 709, the colors seemed washed out on Normal, but excellent on Wide so I went with Wide)
RCP: Off (This may be a valuable tool, but was too advanced for me)
Panel Alignment: R (H: -1, V: -1); B (H: -1, V: 6)

For the PS3, I have the Display Settings as follows:
Cross Color Reduction Filter: Off (Couldn't see any difference on or off)
RGB Full Range (HDMI): Full (The PS3 background looked much better with it on)
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI): On (Couldn't see any difference on or off)
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post #107 of 780 Old 11-12-2008, 04:09 AM
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Hello kjcincy,

I tried your setting tonight!!!

Got to say I am really liking it.

I did change one thing, Advance Iris to off, Brightness to 50. Yeah that's 2.!!!

I really like the pop in the picture.

I would love to get the same results using Lamp on low, to get more life from the bulb.

I have yet to try Bytes Iris adjustments yet.

Thanks for the settings,

Gezza.
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post #108 of 780 Old 11-12-2008, 04:37 AM
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Hello all,

I may not have worded this right.

After you use the Projector, and power down.

The Red Standby light stays illuminated.

Can you then turn off the power, as I have known for a long time, that having the current on, shortens the life of the unit.

I suppose I could turn it off at the wall!!!

What do you guys do???

Thanks,

Gezza
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post #109 of 780 Old 11-12-2008, 04:21 PM
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GezzaZ3: You're welcome. I've fiddled a lot with Brightness, Black Level Adj. and Gamma Correction. I found that it was better to increase Black Level Adj. than decrease Brightness as it did a better job of preserving shadow details. For me with Black Level Adj. at High and Gamma 3, once I go below 55 on Brightness, I lose too much shadow detail. Your setup or visual preferences may be different.

On your other issue, with the investment you made in the projector, you should have, at a minimum, a power strip. It'll also let you totally shut off the power to the unit.
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post #110 of 780 Old 11-12-2008, 04:51 PM
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Hey Guys,

Can HW10 owners post what mount they are using and why they like it?

I need a 9" drop...
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post #111 of 780 Old 11-12-2008, 05:49 PM
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cma-385 internal joist mount <-> 8" NPT threaded black pipe <-> rpa-020

all from chief mfg. i bought mine from jason

the first piece depends on your ceiling. (mine is mounted BETWEEN two joists
above the false ceiling and allows up to ~14" fore-aft travel).
chief also makes one that replaces a drop ceiling tile
as well as one which allows the mount to drop anywhere within the 2X2 ceiling
tile area. there are lots of options for the actual ceiling attachment.

the second is either stock or cut to length then threaded by home depot

the bottom piece (rpa020) is adjustable in all three roll axes and includes
quick disconnect for easy filter/lamp replacement.

costs more than the universal options, but once up, very easy to adjust.
the quick connect system allows one to pull the projector down
for maintenance, then back up without having to re-aim.

isn't the 9" within the vertical lense shift range??
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post #112 of 780 Old 11-13-2008, 05:28 AM
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Don't own an HW10 but a question or two:

Anyone played with the VERTICAL SIZE adjust in the SCREEN MENU? Likely to be only a few lines but I would like to know how much range, since the manual claims it can both increase and decrease in the vertical.

BYTEHOVEN
Word on IMAGE DIRECTOR?

ted
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post #113 of 780 Old 11-13-2008, 05:53 AM
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I have not tried without the 9" mount I have from monoprice. I have a steel beam that runs right to left in the middle of my room in front of my projector.
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post #114 of 780 Old 11-13-2008, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquafire View Post

I have not tried without the 9" mount I have from monoprice. I have a steel beam that runs right to left in the middle of my room in front of my projector.

the chief cma360 is designed to grab an I-Beam, if you want to mount at the
I-beam. what's the ceiling construction in the area where you want to mount
the projector??
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post #115 of 780 Old 11-13-2008, 06:15 AM
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I have 3ft of 2 x 8 wood already under my double drywall so I dont have an issue mounting from 15-18' back.
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post #116 of 780 Old 11-13-2008, 06:32 AM
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looks like you just need to pick the right attachment for your ceiling:
http://www.chiefmfg.com/productdetai...ccessoryID=680

peerless has direct equivalents to the RPA020 et al
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post #117 of 780 Old 11-13-2008, 06:34 AM
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I posted this as a reply in another forum, but it probably belongs here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...062793&page=12
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post #118 of 780 Old 11-13-2008, 08:55 AM
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I tried the iris trick on my friends hw10 and we both noticed the iris when this was changed. I never noticed the iris before so we switched it back to it's original settings.

Byte,When you made this change you really didn't notice the iris at all? I was hoping to be able to replicate your results but unfortunately we could not.
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post #119 of 780 Old 11-13-2008, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew P View Post

I tried the iris trick on my friends hw10 and we both noticed the iris when this was changed. I never noticed the iris before so we switched it back to it's original settings.

Byte,When you made this change you really didn't notice the iris at all? I was hoping to be able to replicate your results but unfortunately we could not.

I had said there were a couple of moments during a movie like Indy 4 where I noticed the iris, such as during the scene where Indy and the boy are in Cusco at the insane asylum. But otherwise I did not observe the iris.

What auto iris mode were you using? I was using Auto 2 (recommend).

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post #120 of 780 Old 11-13-2008, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

Nothing to report yet.

Trying to determine if a software update to the HW10 is possible to allow ID 3 support. I have been advised to author a letter to the Sony Engineering folks requesting an update solution. However, it may turn out the HW10 lacks some hardware to support ID 3, in which case it's a dead end. Also, even a doable software solution could take a long time given Sony's focus on next year's projectors and the economy.

I have asked another AVS member who talks with Sony engineers if he could assist in making the request. Let's keep our fingers crossed.

Thanks for that, GAMMA is one of those things I like fine grained control of. Unfortunately my contacts in Sony are in the Broadcast end and don't know from projectors or anything consumer.

Any chance you could try out VERTICAL SIZE in the SCREEN menu? I'm curious about range.

ted
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