Official Planar PD8150 Owners Thread - Page 10 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
Well I got it open, but I'm not really sure where to start. I feel it's a bit more dire than something simple, like I said above, there are absolutely no signs of life with it now. The Power button LED doesn't even light anymore. It's not like it powers up but won't light, or won't stay lit, right now, there's just nothing.
If I recall, the power button has a wire that has to be removed when you take the lid off doesn't it?
You did plug the switch back in when you put the lid back on didn't you?
I know I had mine running when opened up.. think the lid was kid of half over the back if I remember.. And I also think I remember freaking out after I put it back together one time and it did now have power.. cause I forgot to plug in the switch..

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Old 08-31-2015, 02:32 PM
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Well first off, there was no light on the LED before I opened it. But no I haven't disconnected it, to fully remove the lid you would have to but I don't have it quite that far off.
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
Well first off, there was no light on the LED before I opened it. But no I haven't disconnected it, to fully remove the lid you would have to but I don't have it quite that far off.
Got it, sorry to hear it was lifeless before the lid came off.
Now I can tell you when I opened mine up which was an ebay extra I got from Seegs the "projector collector" there were many loose and unattached ground wires as well as a thermal fuse that was no longer attached to anything .. never did fine where it went.. So.. Considering you had a possible over heat issues, that thermal fuse may have blown which would cause a no power condition. I believe it was a red wire... wait I found a photo.. later on I ended up pulling it out and finding that the other end was just laying in the projector an no particular place..
My guess is that lives under neath everything.. I did not dissemble mine to expose the power supply .. And I could not find that red and white wire in any of the online photos at the time ..
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Last edited by airscapes; 08-31-2015 at 02:57 PM.
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:56 PM
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Well I contacted Planar, first things first, I'll see what options they give me, before I go disassembling and potentially making things worse (more expensive). If they're unhelpful, I guess I will look into digging further.
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:00 PM
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I think you're going to be disappointed. They're probably going to say "send it in for service/inspection." This is how most CE companies handle situations like this.

Last edited by Seegs108; 08-31-2015 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:11 PM
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Well that's what I assume will happen, I'll be disappointed if I get the "You have to request an RMA through your dealer" response. My question at this point (beyond if they'll help at all), is how much it will cost to just figure out what's wrong.

I'm just hoping there's an option for me other than ("permanently") remounting my mostly functioning BenQ W5000, Viteq Qumi, or picking up something new like a BenQ W1075 or something, after the RS4910 anything much more expensive than a new BenQ is really not an option.

Last edited by stanger89; 08-31-2015 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:30 PM
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Well, the other issue you have is Planar won't sell you part, even if they have them.... hell they claim not to have service manuals for the thing.. Seegs, bet you could start your own little service business.. parts.. get your planar part here!

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Old 08-31-2015, 09:52 PM
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The Planar/Runco's are starting to dry up on ebay, there used to be 2-3 every other month.

I'd like to take it apart and get at that power supply to see if anything is obvious there. If Runco could repair it for ~$500 or under I think it would be worth keeping vs. replacing it with a budget DLP.
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
I'd like to take it apart and get at that power supply to see if anything is obvious there. If Runco could repair it for ~$500 or under I think it would be worth keeping vs. replacing it with a budget DLP.
That's kind of what I was thinking, a BenQ W1070 is $700 on Amazon, and would probably be "fine" for gaming, heck it's got 3D, if not the best (DLP Link), and some pretty enormous light output. If the repair is less than that, it's probably worth it to still have a functioning, top class DLP. But if it gets to that or more, then, well, especially since I've got a JVC for movies...

I really still am a die hard DLP fan, somehow, even though everything calibrates "the same" my Planar just threw a more natural image than my JVC, not even sure how to explain it. Maybe there will be some good DLP news at CEDIA, and I can start saving up for that. Though I really doubt it, my best hope is a UHD Lumis, but that would be well out of my price range, especially if it checked of the solid-state "lamp" and HDR check boxes.

Though a "UHD compatible" (HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, HDR, WCG) 1080p machine would be an intriguing option. Paired with an anamorphic lens you'd get a decent resolution boost over Blu-ray for scope content.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
That's kind of what I was thinking, a BenQ W1070 is $700 on Amazon, and would probably be "fine" for gaming, heck it's got 3D, if not the best (DLP Link), and some pretty enormous light output. If the repair is less than that, it's probably worth it to still have a functioning, top class DLP. But if it gets to that or more, then, well, especially since I've got a JVC for movies...

I really still am a die hard DLP fan, somehow, even though everything calibrates "the same" my Planar just threw a more natural image than my JVC, not even sure how to explain it. Maybe there will be some good DLP news at CEDIA, and I can start saving up for that. Though I really doubt it, my best hope is a UHD Lumis, but that would be well out of my price range, especially if it checked of the solid-state "lamp" and HDR check boxes.

Though a "UHD compatible" (HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, HDR, WCG) 1080p machine would be an intriguing option. Paired with an anamorphic lens you'd get a decent resolution boost over Blu-ray for scope content.
There is a 5A slow blow fuse on the PS board but that is the bottom most one and is somewhat difficult to reach.
Runco does not do its own Planar/Runco repairs but instead will refer you to a 3rd part vendor RVI.
They have a flat fee of $900 to fix anything needed.
Hope that helps.
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:26 PM
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Well you're right on the first part, I assume you're right (or low) on the second, but I'll give RVI a call and confirm.
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Old 09-04-2015, 07:11 AM
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Yeah, they said "about $1k" flat fee. I managed to recomission my BenQ W5000, so I think I'm going to run with that for a while since I've got some expenses coming up this month. I think I'll still get it fixed, it's still one of the best DLP out there and definitely kicks the but of anything under $3k still.
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Old 09-04-2015, 03:31 PM
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it's a shame you're not closer, I would like to get inside the projector and see if it's something as straightforward as the slow burn fuse as mentioned above. When I swapped in the DC4, I had the entire projector stripped down to the PS.

We have been using it lately for gaming. I didn't realize it had low lag time until you mentioned it in a thread from a few months ago. It's razor sharp and have been playing Dead or Alive on the PS4. I like the fighting games and still have my Sega Saturn with the original Virtual Fighter.
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
it's a shame you're not closer, I would like to get inside the projector and see if it's something as straightforward as the slow burn fuse as mentioned above. When I swapped in the DC4, I had the entire projector stripped down to the PS.
Since I've got a working backup, I'm a little more inclined to take it apart, but then again if it were the fuse, the engineer in me would want to know why that blew.

Quote:
We have been using it lately for gaming. I didn't realize it had low lag time until you mentioned it in a thread from a few months ago. It's razor sharp and have been playing Dead or Alive on the PS4. I like the fighting games and still have my Sega Saturn with the original Virtual Fighter.
Ironically, I can play DOA just fine on my JVC, guess I'm a "button masher" in that game But NBA Jam, Halo, and Forza are just non-starters on the JVC, absolutely terrible.
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Old 09-05-2015, 01:46 PM
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Since I've got a working backup, I'm a little more inclined to take it apart, but then again if it were the fuse, the engineer in me would want to know why that blew.
Well, stands to reason if you were having over heating issues due to a fan not running (can't find that out till it runs again) that overheating could have blown a thermal fuse. No way I would spend a grand without at least looking .. The unit is a tank, all held together with screws .. take lots of photos as you tear it down.

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Old 09-05-2015, 08:36 PM
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doug that is a good point, before the total failure, it was shutting down and giving the solid red which could have been a failed fan. I posted a number of teardown pics last year which should help.

Fix it, the Planar must live on.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:23 AM
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Well, I found one problem. There's a blown fuse (no continuity), Looks like a LittelFuse T5AH250VP. Guess I'll have to see if the local electronics store has them. I don't see a thermal fuse anywhere, nothing on a wire like was pictured earlier. I do notice there are what what appear to be temp sensors in a number of places though. I'm going to have to get out my 12V power supply and test the fans and see if any of those need to be replaced.

edit

Looks like I need one of the blower fans too, BFB0712LD-SE01...

Last edited by stanger89; 09-07-2015 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
Well, I found one problem. There's a blown fuse (no continuity), Looks like a LittelFuse T5AH250VP. Guess I'll have to see if the local electronics store has them. I don't see a thermal fuse anywhere, nothing on a wire like was pictured earlier. I do notice there are what what appear to be temp sensors in a number of places though. I'm going to have to get out my 12V power supply and test the fans and see if any of those need to be replaced.

edit

Looks like I need one of the blower fans too, BFB0712LD-SE01...
Sounds very encouraging and logical!

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Old 09-07-2015, 09:30 AM
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:14 PM
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Where was the fuse located?

Which fan has to be replaced,the one near the color wheel or in the middle?

This looks like the part.

http://www.pchub.com/uph/laptop/640-...ower-Fan.html#

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Old 09-07-2015, 05:45 PM
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The fuse was on the main power supply board, the large one. In the picture you can see the two halves of the socket just below the connector.


And yeah, it's the large, vertically oriented blower that blows into the colorwheel area. I found one (close enough) on Ebay, figured that would get here quicker than from China or Singapore.

Interstingly, I got into it without taking out the light engine, I removed the IO board:


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Old 09-07-2015, 07:32 PM
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good deal, please keep us posted. It will be great if it's just a cheap fan + fuse and back in action again.
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:58 PM
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We have been using it lately for gaming. I didn't realize it had low lag time until you mentioned it in a thread from a few months ago. It's razor sharp and have been playing Dead or Alive on the PS4. I like the fighting games and still have my Sega Saturn with the original Virtual Fighter.
I have been telling this practically in every praise post that I wrote about the Planar. I has minimum input lag, full 4:4:4 chroma resolution, great color accuracy, great color uniformity, great motion resolution, great sharpness. It is great for gaming, it is great for general PC use and Photoshop even... It is great for movies. And of course it is very reliable (despite yours breaking down). Its picture doesn't degrade with age as with LCD or LCoS/SXRD. Just swap the lamp and you still get the same great PQ as in 2008. You are not going to find a more universal projector with such high performance characteristics as this one for near $3000.

It is definitely worth repairing.

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Old 09-08-2015, 04:47 AM
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Yup, hopefully I can keep it and my RS4910 going until the next generation of DLPs becomes available. Even after calibrating my 4910, there's just something more natural about the Planar's image, maybe it's the uniformity. I haven't devoted the 3 hours to doing the 125 point cube calibration, maybe that will help but I doubt it.
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Old 09-08-2015, 06:15 PM
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Well, it looks like it's more dire than we'd hoped. I replaced the fuse, unfortunately it blows the instant you plug it in.
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:53 PM
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Well, it looks like it's more dire than we'd hoped. I replaced the fuse, unfortunately it blows the instant you plug it in.
Then it's possible it's the power supply...
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:48 AM
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Anyone know where I can pick-up a short throw sense for the LS5/PD8150?

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Old 11-17-2015, 11:50 AM
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Anyone know where I can pick-up a short throw sense for the LS5/PD8150?
You can order one through any Runco dealer. It will run you $775-$999 depending on how much of a discount the dealer is willing to give you.
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:20 PM
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You can order one through any Runco dealer. It will run you $775-$999 depending on how much of a discount the dealer is willing to give you.
I called the local shop and they wanted $850 for it. Uhg... More than I really want to spend, but that's life.

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Old 11-17-2015, 12:25 PM
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I called the local shop and they wanted $850 for it. Uhg... More than I really want to spend, but that's life.
These RARELY show up on the used market. Unless you're okay with waiting for one to show up buying one new may be the best option. Swapping them out is easy. There's a PDF around that Planar/Runco made on how to do it. It shouldn't take more than 20 minutes to swap them.
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