Official Planar PD8150 Owners Thread - Page 12 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #331 of 344 Unread 12-08-2015, 03:28 PM
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Has anyone ever gotten hold of a service manual of the Planar? Going to be attempting a FrankinPlanar and would be nice to have if anyone has one.

Doug
Planar PD8150 with DC4 DMD paired with a Dalite HP 2.8 110"
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post #332 of 344 Unread 12-08-2015, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
Going to be attempting a FrankinPlanar

Don't have one, unfortunately.
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post #333 of 344 Unread 12-09-2015, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elix View Post

Don't have one, unfortunately.
Yes, I think Planar/Runco has one copy locked in a vault that even the 4 horseman can't get!
8130 Parts machine arrives Friday, first phase is to see if it really only needs a color wheel... Stay tuned

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post #334 of 344 Unread 12-28-2015, 05:33 AM
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Ok, Franky is complete. I now have a functioning DI, with a DC4 chip. Since this was done in multiple steps, (some repeated more than once) I can say the DI was the most important part. The Chip change did not make a real noticeable difference, 1fl more output at the same settings. I attempted to measure contrast but I was using the C6 which I don't think is really the correct meter for the job from what I read in other threads. The measurable difference with the tools i have was about 1fl with the only change being the chip. I had Contrast set to clip everything over 239 before and after the chip change and did not change anything. I did not take a lot of pictures as Seegs wrote up a little primer. I guess I can post it here, he did not say not to.

Here are the instruction, Seegs wrote out for me from memory, they worked perfectly, and at this point I could probably write this myself from memory. I can now swap a DMD once the lid is off, in 40 minutes.. of course that does not count the time to remove the lens after being "done" to extract a cat hair..

If anyone wants any other pictures let me know, I have a second 8130 parts machine that is still partially disassembled.

First remove the top lid and front part of the chassis that goes around the lens. Remove the back plastic cover that goes over the I/O ports. When you do this you'll need to disconnect the wire that powers the lamp cover sensor that I need. You'll need to remove one of the sides (where the air intake/exhaust vents are) on the side that touches the light engine. The other side can remain in place. But to do this you'll need to unscrew the metal shroud that goes around the lens on the front of the chassis. Once the black metal shroud has been unscrewed you can remove the 4 screws that hold the side chassis vent in place.

Remove the fan that blows air into just before the color wheel. This fan is easy to spot because it sticks up vertically. There are two screws that hold this fan in place, remove them, and remove the wire that powers it from the main board. You'll need to unplug the two wires that run across the top of the lamp housing, the yellow flat wire that sends information to the color wheel, the wire to the right of that one, and remove the three wires that go to the DMD board. There's also a large connector near the I/O ports that needs to be unplugged. There may be a few others that I can't remember off the top of my head, so if they look like they'll need to be disconnected, unplug them. Every connector is either a different shape/size or has a unique number of pins. This is done on purpose so you can't plug them back into the wrong port. So don't worry too much about labeling where each goes.

There's another shroud that needs to be removed. This one is between the mainboard and DMD driver board. There are two or three screws holding it in place and to remove it you need to slide it to the left or right and pull out. I forget which way you need to slide it but you'll see. There's like a hook that keeps it in place.

After all of this you can finally remove the light engine. There are 5 or 6 large screws that hold it in place and a small one just below where you install the lamp. Remove them and as you pull the light engine out there's a large cable that needs to be removed from the power supply. It is held in place half way by a white clamp looking piece of plastic. Once you have it out I'd rest it vertically with the lens holding it in place. Now you can remove the DMD board. The first thing you need to do is remove the heatsink. There is a clip holding it in place that runs diagonally through the middle of the heatsink. You can pop it off by using something like a razor blade to get one of the tabs disconnected. Once it's removed you should see a grey thermal pad. Try your best to keep this in tact and not to lose any of the thermal compound as it helps move heat away from the DMD. From here there are 4 screws that need to be removed. Once these are removed you can pull off the DMD board. Just be careful when you do this as the DMD and the socket it sits in may fall out so be ready to catch it. Be sure to document the orientation of how the DMD sits.

When handling the DMD you need to be ABSOLUTELY sure that the front surface is clean when you put the new one in. If you get it dirty you will see spots on screen. And if this occurs you'll need to take it all apart again to clean it. Also be sure not to touch the TIR prism that sits just in front of the DMD inside the light engine. Again, smudges or debris will make it so you see blobs and shadows within the picture on screen.

Do everything in reverse to put the projector back together.



I found this today, may be helpful for anyone cleaning a DMD .. http://www.ti.com/lit/an/dlpa025/dlpa025.pdf
Please note: Distilled water is deionized water for this type of cleaning purpose but there are differences in PH and electrical conductivity, so technically they are a little different.
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Planar PD8150 with DC4 DMD paired with a Dalite HP 2.8 110"
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Last edited by airscapes; 01-17-2016 at 06:54 AM.
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post #335 of 344 Unread 12-28-2015, 06:14 AM
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Nice work. I have always liked these units. I think they are excellent single chip units.
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post #336 of 344 Unread 12-28-2015, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
Ok, Franky is complete. I now have a functioning DI, with a DC4 chip.
Congratulations!!! So, how do you like Franky?)
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post #337 of 344 Unread 12-28-2015, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Elix View Post
Congratulations!!! So, how do you like Franky?)
Like I said, the DI made the biggest difference, fade to black is now much much better. The difference in contrast between the 9128 chip (DC2) and the 9140 (DC4) is not that remarkable. Unfortunately for me the PD8150 I have is a franky to start, it had the light engine of an 8130 in it. Same chip as the virgin 8130 I got for parts with a failed color wheel. All in all it was worth the $350 I paid for the 8130. I sold the lamp door switch to Seegs and traded the DMD board to another forum member for the DC4 chip. I am left with most of the important parts as backup. The lens off the 8130 has the little iris in it, a bit less CA and does not move as much once focused. The focus uniformity is a smidgen worse than my other lens but over all I think it is the better of the 2. The 8130 only had 1000 hours on the lamp vs mine with 2000 so that was an upgrade as well. No plans to change projectors so I think I am in good shape for many years to come.

Doug
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post #338 of 344 Unread 12-28-2015, 07:39 AM
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good work doug, it's fun taking these apart.

I unfortunately made the mistake of watching 'The Martian' the other night - 1/2 on DC4 Planar, other half on my 2012 model JVC RS46. This is tough to say because I like it a lot, but it may finally be time to part with the Planar. The low APL scenes were in a different league despite the best efforts of the iris + the DC4. These scenes were much more convincing on the base model JVC.

There is some gamer out there that is going to love this projector.
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post #339 of 344 Unread 12-28-2015, 08:14 AM
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Oh, I am sure I would love a JVC but for what I watch (DVRed TV and Premium channels) in a 1/3 blacked out white room, I would have a hard time justifying the expense. What I don't know won't hurt me!!

Doug
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post #340 of 344 Unread 12-28-2015, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
Like I said, the DI made the biggest difference, fade to black is now much much better. The difference in contrast between the 9128 chip (DC2) and the 9140 (DC4) is not that remarkable. Unfortunately for me the PD8150 I have is a franky to start, it had the light engine of an 8130 in it. Same chip as the virgin 8130 I got for parts with a failed color wheel. All in all it was worth the $350 I paid for the 8130. I sold the lamp door switch to Seegs and traded the DMD board to another forum member for the DC4 chip. I am left with most of the important parts as backup. The lens off the 8130 has the little iris in it, a bit less CA and does not move as much once focused. The focus uniformity is a smidgen worse than my other lens but over all I think it is the better of the 2. The 8130 only had 1000 hours on the lamp vs mine with 2000 so that was an upgrade as well. No plans to change projectors so I think I am in good shape for many years to come.
Can you post contrast measurements with the combination of BC on/off and DI on/off?
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post #341 of 344 Unread 12-29-2015, 04:33 AM
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Can you post contrast measurements with the combination of BC on/off and DI on/off?
No, my meter does no do very well and the wife has just about had it with me messing with this thing. Had a hard time reproducing the same numbers when I was comparing the 2 chips I think the HP2.8 also make it harder. In hind sight I should have used some foam bard for a screen to measure with when comparing.
I was a little concerned that I could see no change in black level during normal viewing when I turned on the DI. I had to put up a 0% pattern to "see" the change. Of course there is no button to do that and the Menu comes up and blinds you. It also looks like they have the APL set very low before the iris kicks in, as you can see the BL raise after a fade to black and the credits start to roll.
Still have a dust blob on the DMD but can only see that with a 0% pattern after your eyes adjust. Yet knowing it is there still bothering me.. I expect I will pull it apart yet again.. Fing OCD!

Doug
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Last edited by airscapes; 12-29-2015 at 04:37 AM.
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post #342 of 344 Unread 01-13-2016, 11:35 AM
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"new screen" does that mean you had an old one that didn't have the issue?

"moved the projector right and left", does that mean that the color shift moved as well?
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post #343 of 344 Unread 01-14-2016, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mishari84 View Post
today I installed a new screen that is tested to be neutral in color temperature.

When I displayed chrome browser on the projector, I noticed the left side of the screen was perfectly white, while the middle and right side were noticeably yellowish. when I moved the projector right and left the color shift was still their, so it was definitely the projector's issue.

what could be the reason?
Go into the menu, third tab over I think and select a white screen for no input and turn off LOGO if is on. Switch to an unused input and you should get a white screen and see if the discoloration is gone. If so then something in the input from the computer, if not then something in the light path or calibration.
If still there, go back to the active input and display white, it would be better to use a NON computer input like a BR or DVD player and a calibration disk like the AVS 709 free disk. With the disk, properly set the Brigtness and Contrast. If you don't have one at the very least display your browser and check the contrast setting, should not be over 100.. try lowering it and see if the color changes or goes away as you reduce it.
Let us know what you see.

Also forgot to say turn off adaptive contrast and dynamic black in the second tab of the menu if either are on
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post #344 of 344 Unread 01-16-2016, 05:15 AM
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tried all the above, still there. I hope it is something with bulb, which has only 500 hours so far.

With Benq W1070 there was an issue that was solved by taking out the bulb and put back again.
Unless this was an ebay compatible lamp there is not much change of that. I guess it is possible if you replaced the bare lamp and got something wrong. However I am unaware of a lamp ever causing a color uniformity issue. A picture of the the issue would also be helpful. Another test is to display a 0% pattern (video black), let your eye adjust and see if you can see any blobs or the same uniformity issues. If so this could be an indication of something physically on the DMD. It is possible that the light tunnel is failing but I can not say I have ever hear of that happening with this projector.

Doug
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