Ok, Franky is complete. I now have a functioning DI, with a DC4 chip. Since this was done in multiple steps, (some repeated more than once) I can say the DI was the most important part. The Chip change did not make a real noticeable difference, 1fl more output at the same settings. I attempted to measure contrast but I was using the C6 which I don't think is really the correct meter for the job from what I read in other threads. The measurable difference with the tools i have was about 1fl with the only change being the chip. I had Contrast set to clip everything over 239 before and after the chip change and did not change anything. I did not take a lot of pictures as Seegs wrote up a little primer. I guess I can post it here, he did not say not to.
Here are the instruction, Seegs wrote out for me from memory, they worked perfectly, and at this point I could probably write this myself from memory. I can now swap a DMD once the lid is off, in 40 minutes.. of course that does not count the time to remove the lens after being "done" to extract a cat hair..
If anyone wants any other pictures let me know, I have a second 8130 parts machine that is still partially disassembled.
First remove the top lid and front part of the chassis that goes around the lens. Remove the back plastic cover that goes over the I/O ports. When you do this you'll need to disconnect the wire that powers the lamp cover sensor that I need. You'll need to remove one of the sides (where the air intake/exhaust vents are) on the side that touches the light engine. The other side can remain in place. But to do this you'll need to unscrew the metal shroud that goes around the lens on the front of the chassis. Once the black metal shroud has been unscrewed you can remove the 4 screws that hold the side chassis vent in place.
Remove the fan that blows air into just before the color wheel. This fan is easy to spot because it sticks up vertically. There are two screws that hold this fan in place, remove them, and remove the wire that powers it from the main board. You'll need to unplug the two wires that run across the top of the lamp housing, the yellow flat wire that sends information to the color wheel, the wire to the right of that one, and remove the three wires that go to the DMD board. There's also a large connector near the I/O ports that needs to be unplugged. There may be a few others that I can't remember off the top of my head, so if they look like they'll need to be disconnected, unplug them. Every connector is either a different shape/size or has a unique number of pins. This is done on purpose so you can't plug them back into the wrong port. So don't worry too much about labeling where each goes.
There's another shroud that needs to be removed. This one is between the mainboard and DMD driver board. There are two or three screws holding it in place and to remove it you need to slide it to the left or right and pull out. I forget which way you need to slide it but you'll see. There's like a hook that keeps it in place.
After all of this you can finally remove the light engine. There are 5 or 6 large screws that hold it in place and a small one just below where you install the lamp. Remove them and as you pull the light engine out there's a large cable that needs to be removed from the power supply. It is held in place half way by a white clamp looking piece of plastic. Once you have it out I'd rest it vertically with the lens holding it in place. Now you can remove the DMD board. The first thing you need to do is remove the heatsink. There is a clip holding it in place that runs diagonally through the middle of the heatsink. You can pop it off by using something like a razor blade to get one of the tabs disconnected. Once it's removed you should see a grey thermal pad. Try your best to keep this in tact and not to lose any of the thermal compound as it helps move heat away from the DMD. From here there are 4 screws that need to be removed. Once these are removed you can pull off the DMD board. Just be careful when you do this as the DMD and the socket it sits in may fall out so be ready to catch it. Be sure to document the orientation of how the DMD sits.
When handling the DMD you need to be ABSOLUTELY sure that the front surface is clean when you put the new one in. If you get it dirty you will see spots on screen. And if this occurs you'll need to take it all apart again to clean it. Also be sure not to touch the TIR prism that sits just in front of the DMD inside the light engine. Again, smudges or debris will make it so you see blobs and shadows within the picture on screen.
Do everything in reverse to put the projector back together.
I found this today, may be helpful for anyone cleaning a DMD .. http://www.ti.com/lit/an/dlpa025/dlpa025.pdf
Please note: Distilled water is deionized water for this type of cleaning purpose but there are differences in PH and electrical conductivity, so technically they are a little different.