Official Planar PD8150 Owners Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 206 Old 06-15-2009, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

"The Planar on the other hand seems to be less aggressive and maintains whites as a first priority even if it means having to sacrifice black levels."

The mystery is that it doesn't look like it is.

I wonder what the IRE of stars is. I've always assumed near max, but if appreciably dimmer then I guess that leaves the algorithm enough to work with.

Eric Garci's intrascene contrast calculator has an example photo of a star field and gives some numbers for peak white and black. I don't remember the exact number for the %stim of peak white, but I remember it being pretty high (probably around 90%). So this would force the Planar to either 1) crush whites a little in order to maintain a good black level or 2) leave whites about the same and live with the elevated black level.

With the short time that I had the Planar, I didn't notice scenes where BC took place, but Darin had the unit longer and said that he saw a few scenes that contained very small amounts of bright whites that showed some BC. So it's likely that with a star field scene that the Planar probably does option 1). So it's probably the case that the Planar algorithm doesn't maintain the white levels all the time and with all content, but it does so most of the time and more so than other dynamic implementations.


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post #62 of 206 Old 06-16-2009, 05:18 PM
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Anyone in Atlanta knows where I can see PD8150 ?
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post #63 of 206 Old 06-16-2009, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Petersen View Post

Eric Garci's intrascene contrast calculator has an example photo of a star field and gives some numbers for peak white and black.

Just for information, his contrast calculators recently moved and are at:

http://home.roadrunner.com/~res18h39/intrascene.htm

http://home.roadrunner.com/~res18h39/contrast.htm

It is hard for me to tell from the histogram under the H for the star field in the first link how many are way up high. From memory of star fields I've looked at with the waveform monitor on the Panasonic AE1000 and AE3000, some stars will be up near 100% video level, but most are down lower.

One interesting thing with Alien vs Predator: Requiem is that things seem to top out pretty low. Even very bright things like a sun look like they are about 70% video level max, even if crushed to that. I could check some more scenes to make sure, but I'm thinking about raising the Contrast setting for my display when I look at that title.

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post #64 of 206 Old 06-16-2009, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darinp2 View Post

Just for information, his contrast calculators recently moved and are at:

http://home.roadrunner.com/~res18h39/intrascene.htm

http://home.roadrunner.com/~res18h39/contrast.htm

Thanks for the links Darin, I looked for it when I posted but the link was dead, now I know why.

Quote:


One interesting thing with Alien vs Predator: Requiem is that things seem to top out pretty low. Even very bright things like a sun look like they are about 70% video level max, even if crushed to that. I could check some more scenes to make sure, but I'm thinking about raising the Contrast setting for my display when I look at that title.

--Darin

Yup, AVP Requiem is the perfect movie to show off a good DI implementation because the peak whites are so low in most scenes and overall it's very dark. Not much downside to using a DI with that movie, but a lot of benefit to be had.


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post #65 of 206 Old 03-15-2011, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Has anyone bought a lamp for this projector yet? I have 3135 hours on my original lamp and I am thinking I need to be looking for a replacement.
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post #66 of 206 Old 03-15-2011, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mortisemaker View Post

Has anyone bought a lamp for this projector yet? I have 3135 hours on my original lamp and I am thinking I need to be looking for a replacement.

I haven't, but didn't they say you should replace after 2000 hours? Have you been using it in high or low lamp mode? I use mine in low for movies and high for sports.

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post #67 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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The specs in the back of the user manual say 4000 hours in 180watt (low) mode.

I have run the projector only in low mode with a few very brief looks at what high mode would look like.
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post #68 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mortisemaker View Post
The specs in the back of the user manual say 4000 hours in 180watt (low) mode.

I have run the projector only in low mode with a few very brief looks at what high mode would look like.
Planar Lamp Google Search 997-5268-00

You know, I don't know if you can use another brand lamp or not, but it would be good to find out. The lamps are pretty expensive from what I have found. However I read you can just replace the bulb and not purchase the housing, but I don't know the sku for that. Anyone?

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post #69 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 01:46 PM
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post #70 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 02:10 PM
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Why not buy your new bulb from the AVS crew right here?
That makes great sense. I bought my project from you guys.

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post #71 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 02:17 PM
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Question for you Planar/Runco owners. Do you have to go into a menue to get the vertical stretch mode for use with an anamorphic lens, or is it available directly from the remote? From reading the users manual I know there is a 'Aspect Ratio' button on the remote, but I can't tell if one of the modes is the V-stretch. Is 'Letterbox' the mode I am after?

I use a fixed place A-lens and want to make sure I can easily swap between 16x9 and 2.35:1 modes without navigating into a menue.
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post #72 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 06:24 PM
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If your 8150 is anything like the rest of the Runco's and Vidikron's (RIP) it should be available from the remote. On the past two I have owned the button was located under the brightness and contrast buttons.

David

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post #73 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f300v10 View Post

Question for you Planar/Runco owners. Do you have to go into a menue to get the vertical stretch mode for use with an anamorphic lens, or is it available directly from the remote? From reading the users manual I know there is a 'Aspect Ratio' button on the remote, but I can't tell if one of the modes is the V-stretch. Is 'Letterbox' the mode I am after?

I use a fixed place A-lens and want to make sure I can easily swap between 16x9 and 2.35:1 modes without navigating into a menue.

Yes, it's Letterbox and you can get it from the remote. It's stellar. I have it with a panamorph motorized sled and absolutely love it.

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post #74 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 08:18 PM
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Those Googled $600+ prices are a rip off. You can buy the bulb for $495 at Planars own on-line store.

http://us-dc2-order.store.yahoo.net/...eBCCuH0wAcwQ--

The bulb in the 8150 is an Osram and the model # is clearly visible. P-VIP 180-230/1.0 E20.6 you should be able to order just the bulb from a number of sources but after looking at the lamp assembly I can tell you that swapping out just the lamp is not as easy as other lamp assemblies. There are some screws that appear to be aiming screws and some that attach hold down clips. Bottom line are you feeling lucky?


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post #75 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Those Googled $600+ prices are a rip off. You can buy the bulb for $495 at Planars own on-line store.

http://us-dc2-order.store.yahoo.net/...eBCCuH0wAcwQ--

The bulb in the 8150 is an Orsam and the model # is clearly visible. You should be able to order just the bulb from a number of sources but after looking at the lamp assembly I can tell you that swapping out just the lamp is not as easy as other lamp assemblies.

Thanks BIGmouth. I'd replace just the bulb and save $300/$400. But I like working on stuff like that.

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post #76 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 08:42 PM
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I see the bare bulb goes for under 2 bills. Please post your results here if you have good luck. I see 3 silver screws on the top that appear to hold the lamp frame assembly in the lamp housing. I think you will have to remove those three to free the frame to get access to the hold down clips.

The black screw looks like an aiming adjustment (don't touch)


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post #77 of 206 Old 03-18-2011, 08:59 PM
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Yes, it's Letterbox and you can get it from the remote. It's stellar. I have it with a panamorph motorized sled and absolutely love it.

Great, thanks for confirming.
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post #78 of 206 Old 03-20-2011, 07:31 AM
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So I have pretty much decided on upgrading to a Runco LS-3 or LS-5. My question now is if the LS-5 is worth the extra coin over the LS-3 ($2000 delta retail). I have seen the LS-3, but likely won't be able to demo the LS-5. Outside of horizontal lens shift which I don't need, the only difference between the two seems to be the LS-5/8150 has around 30% higher contrast, most of which I assume is coming from lower absolute black levels. Its not clear to me how visible such a difference will be, can someone who has seen both give an opinion?
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post #79 of 206 Old 03-20-2011, 10:18 AM
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I have seen both, all be it not at the same time. The 5 is a better machine. I am not sure if they use a DC 4 for the better contract or not, but you can see the difference if you compare very bright scenes and very dark ones. Other than that and the shift, which you say you do not need, there really is very little difference.

David

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post #80 of 206 Old 06-22-2011, 10:58 AM
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I don't think anyone followed up with a response to the question about replacing the lamp only within the housing? Has anyone completed this task? What was the level of difficulty? Sources for original lamps? I was surprised to find out that Planar sells the lamp with housing direct from their site for a reasonable price compared to what the retailers can sell for. But, there is a 50% increase in cost for the lamp/housing combo's MSRP vs just buying the lamp only.

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post #81 of 206 Old 06-22-2011, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post

I don't think anyone followed up with a response to the question about replacing the lamp only within the housing? Has anyone completed this task? What was the level of difficulty? Sources for original lamps? I was surprised to find out that Planar sells the lamp with housing direct from their site for a reasonable price compared to what the retailers can sell for. But, there is a 50% increase in cost for the lamp/housing combo's MSRP vs just buying the lamp only.

I'm very interested in this topic, sadly I haven't had the time to put too many hours on my projector.

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post #82 of 206 Old 06-22-2011, 07:26 PM
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NOT sure. There are many places to but "OEM" lamps without the RUnco, Planar name on they as they do not make them. I have put a bulb only in a few projectors and never once had a problem. If the Planar is similar to older Runcos and Vidikrons then the cage has spring moutns that self aline the lamp and it should not be an issue. But I have never opened this model.

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post #83 of 206 Old 06-24-2011, 08:04 AM
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I have not opened my lamp compartment either...but I think I'll take the risk and purchase a bare replacement bulb/lamp and try it out. I did notice that Osram makes two lamps:

P-VIP 180-230/1.0 E20.6

and

P-VIP 180-230/1.0 E20.6N

So one part number ends with an "N" and one doesn't. I've asked a supplier what the difference was...they suggested I pull the lamp housing out and double check...which is the prudent thing to do. I'm using the part # is not visable without pulling out the entire housing from the projector?

pgwalsh was nice enough to send a couple of planar instructions and a video for other models on replacing the lamps. If anyone has the specific instructions for the 8150, I'd love to see them.

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post #84 of 206 Old 06-24-2011, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post

I have not opened my lamp compartment either...but I think I'll take the risk and purchase a bare replacement bulb/lamp and try it out. I did notice that Osram makes two lamps:

P-VIP 180-230/1.0 E20.6

and

P-VIP 180-230/1.0 E20.6N

So one part number ends with an "N" and one doesn't. I've asked a supplier what the difference was...they suggested I pull the lamp housing out and double check...which is the prudent thing to do. I'm using the part # is not visable without pulling out the entire housing from the projector?

pgwalsh was nice enough to send a couple of planar instructions and a video for other models on replacing the lamps. If anyone has the specific instructions for the 8150, I'd love to see them.

Ron

I suggest taking a couple picture of the unit in the projector and a few in the housing before you take it apart, us in case there's any confusing when putting back together. Hopefully you have a digital or cell phone camera. Just makes things a bit easier.

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post #85 of 206 Old 06-24-2011, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgwalsh View Post

I suggest taking a couple picture of the unit in the projector and a few in the housing before you take it apart, us in case there's any confusing when putting back together. Hopefully you have a digital or cell phone camera. Just makes things a bit easier.

That was exactly part of my strategy too. I'd feel much better if there were exact instructions and pics already available. The flying slightly blind is unnerving....but the idea of paying $500 for a new lamp/housing gives me the necessary incentive to shoulder the risk.

Two items I know I'll need are pics of the housing before I touch anything and cotton gloves to make sure none of my body oils touch the bare lamp.

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post #86 of 206 Old 06-24-2011, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post

That was exactly part of my strategy too. I'd feel much better if there were exact instructions and pics already available. The flying slightly blind is unnerving....but the idea of paying $500 for a new lamp/housing gives me the necessary incentive to shoulder the risk.

Two items I know I'll need are pics of the housing before I touch anything and cotton gloves to make sure none of my body oils touch the bare lamp.

Ron

How many AVS'ers does it take to change a light bulb.

I'm sure it'll be fine.

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post #87 of 206 Old 06-27-2011, 06:53 PM
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My planar PD-8150 is nearly 3 years old now with 1,500 hours on the lamp. It has recently developed a problem.

When I switch on the projector, it is completely out of focus. I have to manually adjust the focus and it stays mostly focused (except for the slight shift over the hours). When I switch it off and switch on later, the unit is again out of focus. The shift in focus is so large I cant even read the text in the menu.

Any idea how this can be fixed?

Thanks,

Raghu
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post #88 of 206 Old 06-27-2011, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by raghu13 View Post

My planar PD-8150 is nearly 3 years old now with 1,500 hours on the lamp. It has recently developed a problem.

When I switch on the projector, it is completely out of focus. I have to manually adjust the focus and it stays mostly focused (except for the slight shift over the hours). When I switch it off and switch on later, the unit is again out of focus. The shift in focus is so large I cant even read the text in the menu.

Any idea how this can be fixed?

Thanks,

Raghu

Have you tried resetting the projector?

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post #89 of 206 Old 07-05-2011, 12:19 AM
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rboster, any updates on changing your lamp? It seems like it is hard to find these things, but I did finally find the Planar version: http://www.planaronline.com/catalog/...placementlamps

Which bulb did you get (with or without the N)?

Anyone know if you can buy these now, and install them 2 years from now and have them still be like new, or do they age while sitting in the box?

Thanks,
Mike
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post #90 of 206 Old 07-05-2011, 02:09 PM
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I'm just glad you guys are talking about a DLP projector. I have a Mits HC6500 for the short throw of a 13' direction. But I also have a Sharp Z3000 for it's short throw. I like the Sharp better. You see it as soon as you change over it's a deeper thicker type picture. The JVC DLIA's I tried and this mits look so flat, nice but nice and flat.

Hang in there DLP.

Tom/guitarman
VideoDementia

Are you twisted also?

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