Official Planar PD8150 Owners Thread - Page 9 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #241 of 264 Old 11-02-2014, 09:31 AM
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I really don't think JVC will be challenged in this aspect for a long time. To be honest, I think they have taken low APL performance to another level because in reality a good DC4 unit can pull off really good low APL performance. They just pale in comparison to the JVC units.
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post #242 of 264 Old 11-02-2014, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
Yes, he said it looks to be inserted and bent? Must have to have the thing completely apart. Seegs can you expand on the removal of the DI for us?

I think it is wonderful there are still things that are worth fixing and maintaining.. just read in the other forum "I have a benq bla bla bla and it can not get it to focus across the entire screen should I send it back?".. I like our problems better.. "Hey somone put the lens on upside down.. flip it over!" :-)
There's not a whole lot to say about it. There are two screws that hold the DI in place, which can be seen on either end of the DI device. Then there's a wire that gives the DI signals on when to move. That get's removed. The best way to take it out of the light engine would be to take the metal housing of the light engine apart so you don't bend/break the DI device when extracting it from the light engine. This process can be tricky because all the relay optics are exposed when doing this. I'd only take the projector apart this far if you're very confident in what you're doing. You could try to carefully pull it out of the slot blindly where the device connects but because of the shape I'd be worried it might get caught on something.

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post #243 of 264 Old 11-02-2014, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
My short throw lens is completely wide open, there is no aperture plate to close down the light. The DI still seems to be functioning ok when comparing it to the standard lens. I wonder why they didn't put the plate in the short throw lens.

last night I had a chance to A/B the Planar DC4 with the JVC RS4910, both with a full calibration. The low APL performance of the JVC is striking in comparison to the DLP. Just amazing for those who like dark sci-fi and stage concerts. Even my low end RS46 can put a whooping on the Planar with this kind of content. I wish they could reboot the DLP technology and get something closer to the native contrast performance of the LCOS panels.
Yeah, with low APL level scene performance it's a big difference. This is going to be the case with any projector though, not just the Planar. I noticed a similar, yet not quite as stark, difference with the Sony 1100ES vs the X500/RS4910. Low APL content is just where the JVC's shine.

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post #244 of 264 Old 11-09-2014, 08:18 AM
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Hi,

I am also having issues with my dynamic iris which is currently not working. Can someone please instruct me on how to take the top of the pj? The back screws have been removed and I have the top's back 2 tabs off on each side. I am moving towards the front and don't want to just yank. Is there a "correct" way to disengage the tabs on the front of the top of the protector?

Thanks in advance,

Craig
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post #245 of 264 Old 11-09-2014, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mante View Post
Hi,

I am also having issues with my dynamic iris which is currently not working. Can someone please instruct me on how to take the top of the pj? The back screws have been removed and I have the top's back 2 tabs off on each side. I am moving towards the front and don't want to just yank. Is there a "correct" way to disengage the tabs on the front of the top of the protector?

Thanks in advance,

Craig
Seegs or Zombie can probably help you, it has been a while since I had the lid off and it is a bit of a pain. I think there are screws front and back .. also a couple of wire connectors and ground wire that is attached with a screw so be carefull lifting it off.. it won't come off without disconnecting the wires..

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post #246 of 264 Old 11-09-2014, 02:05 PM
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You need to take off the front piece that surrounds the lens. To do that, on the bottom of the projector you'll see two holes just underneath this front piece. Remove them and take out that piece. There are 5 screws across the top of the vertical plate that surrounds the lens internally that need to be removed. Then pry up on the top and once you get it free there are two cables that need to be removed. These cables supply power/information for the power button and key pad. Depending on the revision of the model you have one of these connections might be grounded so a screw will need to be removed to get the ground wire free.

From there, I've already posted where the physical DI device is located a few posts ago. The problem is that it seems the device needs to be "perfectly" laid into the light path otherwise it may catch on something in the light path or scrape against the light path. If you don't know the proper way that it needs to be installed there's really no way to fix it. I would imagine only Runco and the Delta technicians that assembled the projector know at what angle the device needs to be bent at to function properly.

If you're really worried about getting it to work again, I'd suggest sending it to a Runco authorized repair center and get it done professionally. I can almost guarantee you that you won't be able to fix it yourself.
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post #247 of 264 Old 11-11-2014, 08:22 AM
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Thank you Seegs, Elix and Doug,

I was hoping to remove and reinsert the new DI as if I was playing the game Operation. Should I be "worried about getting it to work again", as in, do I really need it for better performance? I am reading mixed reports on the digital iris.....

Craig
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post #248 of 264 Old 11-11-2014, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mante View Post
Thank you Seegs, Elix and Doug,

I was hoping to remove and reinsert the new DI as if I was playing the game Operation. Should I be "worried about getting it to work again", as in, do I really need it for better performance? I am reading mixed reports on the digital iris.....

Craig
I have had my projector for well over a year I think and the DI never really worked correctly was visible and slow. Recently I found out (Thanks Elix) the lens was on upside down.
This had helped a lot with the iris but it still does not work properly for mixed scenes. I used it that other night to watch the first Startrek reboot and I did not see it in actions. However, I still see it watching other movies and shows and just turn it off. I actually prefer it off as I am not a freak about black level.
Not sure how you will get a replacement DI as Planar won't sell you parts that I know of. I couldn't even get a service manual, they want you to send it to one of their people and pay big bucks.. I was quoted $700-900 to fix the DI..
I was also told by a dealer that if you are not the Original owner they don't want to work on it.. go figure..
Good luck and let us know how you make out.

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post #249 of 264 Old 11-11-2014, 10:32 AM
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Hi Doug,

I really appreciate your comments and did read about your lens issue. Well, since I paid less than your repair quote for my projector, it doesn't really make sense for me to double my investment for a feature some owners turn off.

I kind of feel dumb, but the more I think about it, I probably should have asked "how do you know if your DI is working?" I can't see it in action (that I know of), and just assumed that it was not working. My XV-Z12000mkII obviously doesn't have it, thought the Sharp does have a very nice lens.

Craig
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post #250 of 264 Old 11-11-2014, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mante View Post
Hi Doug,

I really appreciate your comments and did read about your lens issue. Well, since I paid less than your repair quote for my projector, it doesn't really make sense for me to double my investment for a feature some owners turn off.

I kind of feel dumb, but the more I think about it, I probably should have asked "how do you know if your DI is working?" I can't see it in action (that I know of), and just assumed that it was not working. My XV-Z12000mkII obviously doesn't have it, thought the Sharp does have a very nice lens.

Craig
If you have a calibration disk put up a 0% Full Field pattern and view it with the DI on, then turn it off, the blacklevel will be darker with it on than off if it is working.
You should NOT be able to see it work so could be just fine!
If you do not have a test disk, pause a DVD/BR on a fade to black then switch on and off.. should have a blacker screen with it on.

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Last edited by airscapes; 11-12-2014 at 05:48 AM.
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post #251 of 264 Old 11-11-2014, 11:04 PM
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Thank you Seegs, Elix and Doug,

I was hoping to remove and reinsert the new DI as if I was playing the game Operation. Should I be "worried about getting it to work again", as in, do I really need it for better performance? I am reading mixed reports on the digital iris.....

Craig
It doesn't hurt to look inside the projector and see if the lens is in the correct position. Also if you don't see any changes on all-black screen like Airscapes described it is possible the control wire of the DI is unplugged. So it's also worth checking. As to changing the DI, I'd restrain because you can't pull it out without damaging it or without disassembling the whole optical path. And there's a great risk of something going wrong unless you have hours of experience disassembling projectors.
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post #252 of 264 Old 11-19-2014, 02:58 PM
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Hello,

I am a proud owner of an 8130 since a few years in France.
But there is something that moves on the screen, like a hair in the wind, since a while.
I tried to vacuum after removing the lamp housing but it was worse

I think I will have to take the optical path out to clean it.
Or maybe to blow the dust off the DMD.
As Elix did it.

So I am looking about a document explaining how to disassemble my PD8130/LS3 (identical to PD8150/LS5).
Does Zombie's guide may help me
Is there a way to get it ?

Many thanks.

Kind regards,
Manuel
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post #253 of 264 Old 11-19-2014, 03:12 PM
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It's most likely a hair on the DMD surface or fuzz from a piece of clothing. There's a lot of stuff between the outside of the projector all the way to the lens. There's the lens, then a shroud that surrounds the optical engine, then there's another shroud around the housing that holds the relay optics and TIR prism and then finally the DMD surface. You'll need to angle the compressed air container just right to get it out. Or you could take it apart to clean it. This is a little more risky though.

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post #254 of 264 Old 11-20-2014, 06:15 PM
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Just happened to be checking focus at the screen on the new Fios menu which has a much darker background than the old version.. Noticing some Chromatic aberration .. not sure if it is the lense right side up, or that I had not noticed ever before.... guess I will have to flip it back over to know for sure.. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

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post #255 of 264 Old 11-20-2014, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
Just happened to be checking focus at the screen on the new Fios menu which has a much darker background than the old version.. Noticing some Chromatic aberration .. not sure if it is the lense right side up, or that I had not noticed ever before.... guess I will have to flip it back over to know for sure.. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
You must've missed my post: Official Planar PD8150 Owners Thread
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post #256 of 264 Old 11-21-2014, 05:25 AM
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You must've missed my post: Official Planar PD8150 Owners Thread
I saw that but had forgotten with the realization that the DI could be fixed if the lens was on upsidedown! So I guess that saves me the time of flipping it! Never really noticed any uniformity or brightness issues but the DI was unusable.
So is it better to have CA you can not see from seating (but you know is there) and a DI that can be used on dark films if need be.. or No CA or DI. Guess I will obsess about this after the holidays.. Gota look forward to old age and dementia, you get to unsee stuff you have seen!!!
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post #257 of 264 Old 12-07-2014, 08:29 PM
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New problem.. a hair, I assume cat, has found it's way into my planars light path. It is not quite in focus but if you turn the lens all the way to the left when facing it, the hair become sharper. So this means it is not "On" the DMD but fairly close to it I would assume.
Turned on the DI... did not change the hair.. put it on high lamp and the increased fan speed did move the hair a little but that was it. Tried to vacuum both vents but had little hope that would help...
So, Zombie or Seegs.. how would you proceed.. any guesses where it is stuck.. seems to be hanging down from out of frame to the center off center to the left ..
Was thinking I would remove the lens and try the vacuum in the light tunnel before I really start disassembling it. Any other ideas?

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Last edited by airscapes; 12-07-2014 at 08:34 PM.
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post #258 of 264 Old 12-07-2014, 08:32 PM
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If you can see it, it's definitely on the DMD surface or on the back of the lens (first element). The DI is farther back in the light path and the light tunnel is the first thing in the light path past the color wheel so it's definitely not in those places. I'd take the lens out and try your vacuuming trick or used some compressed air. I think the latter would work better.

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post #259 of 264 Old 12-07-2014, 08:41 PM
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If you can see it, it's definitely on the DMD surface or on the back of the lens (first element). The DI is farther back in the light path and the light tunnel is the first thing in the light path past the color wheel so it's definitely not in those places. I'd take the lens out and try your vacuuming trick or used some compressed air. I think the latter would work better.
Well, never had a problem till I tool the lens off the other week.. hopefully just on the back of the lens..
I didn't think that it would be in focus if were right at the back of the lens.. but after reading what you wrote, I guess the DMD is closer to the lense than I had imagined

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post #260 of 264 Old 12-07-2014, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
Well, never had a problem till I tool the lens off the other week.. hopefully just on the back of the lens..
I didn't think that it would be in focus if were right at the back of the lens.. but after reading what you wrote, I guess the DMD is closer to the lense than I had imagined
I had the same problem just a few pages ago. See how I got rid of the problem.
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post #261 of 264 Old 12-08-2014, 05:37 PM
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All good, used your air and vacuum trick and looks good!
Thanks again!

Doug
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post #262 of 264 Old 12-08-2014, 05:40 PM
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it just goes to show you that none of these consumer projectors really have "sealed" light engines. The good thing about a DLP projector is that it's easier to get rid of the stuff that gets on the surface of the micro-display. It seems dust blobs in a 3LCD projector are harder to snuff out.

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post #263 of 264 Old 12-21-2014, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
My short throw lens is completely wide open, there is no aperture plate to close down the light. The DI still seems to be functioning ok when comparing it to the standard lens. I wonder why they didn't put the plate in the short throw lens.

last night I had a chance to A/B the Planar DC4 with the JVC RS4910, both with a full calibration. The low APL performance of the JVC is striking in comparison to the DLP. Just amazing for those who like dark sci-fi and stage concerts. Even my low end RS46 can put a whooping on the Planar with this kind of content. I wish they could reboot the DLP technology and get something closer to the native contrast performance of the LCOS panels.
I forgot to ask. How did you have the RS46 set up? Was the iris set to brightness match the PD8150. I realize the RS46 doesn't have a DI, but I recently had a chance to compare the DC4 PD8150 versus the RS45 (and subsequently the X500 with the DI off) brightness matched and it was really only with particularly dark (the overall APL really low) content where the JVCs pulled ahead with an obvious visible contrast advantage, but with mixed contrast content the PD8150 can still hold it's own. I found that the internal reflections actually made the JVC look worse when there was mixed contrast content on screen and the PD8150 pulled ahead.

For a 6+ year old projector design, it still handles most content quite well in terms of contrast. Until we get some new technologies and designs from TI, this is still the best all around 2D single chip DLP projector ever created. It's one of only a 2 or 3 other projectors I'd consider to own permanently. It's just a shame it can't compete with the JVCs. Then again, no other projectors (save the VW1100ES) can really compete with the JVCs. And even then, when content gets dark the VW1100ES pales in comparison to the current generation JVCs.
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post #264 of 264 Old 12-21-2014, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
I forgot to ask. How did you have the RS46 set up? Was the iris set to brightness match the PD8150. I realize the RS46 doesn't have a DI, but I recently had a chance to compare the DC4 PD8150 versus the RS45 (and subsequently the X500 with the DI off) brightness matched and it was really only with particularly dark (the overall APL really low) content where the JVCs pulled ahead with an obvious visible contrast advantage, but with mixed contrast content the PD8150 can still hold it's own. I found that the internal reflections actually made the JVC look worse when there was mixed contrast content on screen and the PD8150 pulled ahead.

For a 6+ year old projector design, it still handles most content quite well in terms of contrast. Until we get some new technologies and designs from TI, this is still the best all around 2D single chip DLP projector ever created. It's one of only a 2 or 3 other projectors I'd consider to own permanently. It's just a shame it can't compete with the JVCs. Then again, no other projectors (save the VW1100ES) can really compete with the JVCs. And even then, when content gets dark the VW1100ES pales in comparison to the current generation JVCs.
I had the brightness matched close between the RS46 and the Planar. I do watch a lot of dark content, this is where the JVC's obvious advantage is and even the entry model can put a whoopin' on the much more expensive models in those low APL scenes.

I'm on the fence with keeping the Planar, I think I am still under 300 original hours and have the original box + the short throw lens & standard lens. I don't use it much except to show guests how nice an 'older' projector can still look today. Since installing the DC4, it is unique since I believe only you and I have done this so far.

I have too many projectors, there's not enough time to use them all.
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