Official JVC RS10/HD350 Owners Thread! - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 2036 Old 03-22-2009, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sycorp View Post

I have a question regarding the "hide" function. Does this actually put the bulb on standby and hence conserves power and bulb life or does the iris simply close not allowing any light through.
The reason I ask is because sometimes I need to step out for ~20-45 minutes but don't want to power off/on often. thanks.

One person's opinion:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1987
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post #722 of 2036 Old 03-22-2009, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by hrd View Post

One person's opinion:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1987

Interesting... makes me scared to use the hide function.
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post #723 of 2036 Old 03-23-2009, 03:29 AM
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Hi,

I have just got my RS10, upgraded from HD1.
Where do you guys get the test pattern to check the convergence? Also is the access to the service menu same as the HD1? Up, Down Right, Left and Enter? Thanks!
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post #724 of 2036 Old 03-23-2009, 03:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaydee6 View Post

Hi,

I have just got my RS10, upgraded from HD1.
Where do you guys get the test pattern to check the convergence? Also is the access to the service menu same as the HD1? Up, Down Right, Left and Enter? Thanks!

Please post your thoughts as I just put my HD1 up for sale on Ebay and am planning to buy the RS10 as soon as it sells, if I can hold out that long.

Click the link to see pics of my home theater


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post #725 of 2036 Old 03-23-2009, 04:32 AM
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I've been up and running for about a week now with my RS-10 and I am blown away. From build quality to picture quality, it is outstanding.

I'm getting a beautiful picture using a Pioneer Elite BDP-09 Blu ray player as the source. Projector works perfectly with a 50 foot Blue Jeans Cable Series 1 Cable. Projecting on to a 100" diagonal Stewart Firehawk. I think I'm ready to go bigger.

It is extremely quiet which was important to me since it is mounted a few feet above my viewing position. Remote is a little quirky, but once everything is set it becomes less of a bother.

Thanks to all of the posters in this thread who helped me make the tough decision in choosing my new projector.
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post #726 of 2036 Old 03-23-2009, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Gladiator View Post

Projecting on to a 100" diagonal Stewart Firehawk. I think I'm ready to go bigger.

Have you thought about going CIH?
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post #727 of 2036 Old 03-23-2009, 11:51 AM
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Sure have. Currently debating between a 115" diagonal 16:9 or a 105" wide 2.35 screen. I've been trying to do a lot of reading and while the CIH is very appealing, I think I may go with the 115". I have some time so there are plenty of options.
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post #728 of 2036 Old 03-23-2009, 08:26 PM
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I've had the RS10 up and running a little over a week. what i've notice is that this projector is not very sharp. I noticed that the word "focus" when I hit lens to focus is decent (but not crisp sharp) but text and end credits on movies are extremely soft. Do you think this could be due to the cheap HDMI cable (32 ft) I'm using? I might purchase a more expensive one if this is possibly the cause but don't want to spend the money if it won't help and is simply the nature of this projector. thanks!
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post #729 of 2036 Old 03-24-2009, 01:48 AM
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Strange that you posted this as sharpness (and uniformity of sharpness over the whole screen) was one of the improvements I found over my old AE3000: I can focus on the centre word 'Focus' so that I can see the individual pixels when up close to the screen. The rest of the image is then also pin sharp including titles (though granted you do get a slight softening when they are moving down the screen like end credits). I've checked my pixel offsets and found it was already set optimally (not sure if my dealer did this when he checked it for me, or whether that was the factory setting), but it might be worth checking that on yours (in the service menu IIRC). The crappy remote makes setting the focus a challenge, but once set it seems to stay perfect each time I turn it on (once it's warmed up for 10 minutes or so).

Now I've got a smooth screen surface (I used to have a Greywolf) and changed from the AE3000 to the HD350 my image is much sharper than before.

EDIT: I don't want to get into a 'cables are snakeoil' type debate, but your HDMI cable will not just effect focus if it's not upto the job, so I wouldn't waste your money changing it. IMHO, YMMV, etc.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #730 of 2036 Old 03-24-2009, 05:32 AM
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Projector newbie here needing advice.

I soon will be purchasing either the RS-10 or RS-20. I'm curently buying everything I need before I purchase the projector. I just finished building a 16 X 9 100" diagonal screen out of Wilsonart DW laminate with 3" black velvet border (temporary until I decide on what screen size I want). I now want to buy the Chief RPAU universal mount with an adjustable column, but having trouble deciding on whether I should get the 12"-18" column or the 18"-24" column.

I have an 8 foot ceiling white in color. The walls are dark maroon in color. The top of the screen is 24" below the ceiling. The throw distance will be between 14' to 14'-06". The projector will be centered on the screen left to right.

If I buy the 12"-18" column, the lowest I can get center of the lens will be approx 23." (18" column + 2" mount +3" top of projector to center of lens). This setup, however, will let me raise the projector closer to the ceiling for aesthetic reasons. The 18"-24" column will not give me the option to do this.

My questions are what is the optimum vertical placement for these projectors? I've heard that one should try to get the projector level with the top of the screen. Will placing the projector a few inches above the top of the screen compromise PQ? Will placing the projector below the top of the screen give me better PQ? Should I be taking the 3" border into account when placing the projector?

I really think I'm over analyzing this, but I want to make sure I purchase the right adjustable column as they're considered a non returnable item from the internet site I will be buying it from.

Any advice would be appreciated.
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post #731 of 2036 Old 03-24-2009, 07:21 AM
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Anyone tried the RS10 with the RSVP2 processor from JVC?
Is the RS2 preset good enough for (+-) accurate colors?
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post #732 of 2036 Old 03-24-2009, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tambiman View Post

Anyone tried the RS10 with the RSVP2 processor from JVC?
Is the RS2 preset good enough for (+-) accurate colors?

I haven't seen or measured the RSVP2 performance, but the projectors should all be slightly different as the bulb changes color. If you never plan on having a proper calibration, the RSVP2 may work for you, while the Radiance should be adjusted with the proper calibration equipment. For about an additional $500 you get it all...???

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post #733 of 2036 Old 03-24-2009, 09:11 AM
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Oké, fair enough...
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post #734 of 2036 Old 03-24-2009, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Strange that you posted this as sharpness (and uniformity of sharpness over the whole screen) was one of the improvements I found over my old AE3000: I can focus on the centre word 'Focus' so that I can see the individual pixels when up close to the screen. The rest of the image is then also pin sharp including titles (though granted you do get a slight softening when they are moving down the screen like end credits). I've checked my pixel offsets and found it was already set optimally (not sure if my dealer did this when he checked it for me, or whether that was the factory setting), but it might be worth checking that on yours (in the service menu IIRC). The crappy remote makes setting the focus a challenge, but once set it seems to stay perfect each time I turn it on (once it's warmed up for 10 minutes or so).

Thanks for your comments. This sharpness issue is really bothering me! I've attached 3 pictures and was wondering whether they are acceptable and if not are there any settings which can correct them. (my camera's old so I hope the pictures are ok)
1) for convergence. it appears that my PJ is a bit off. is this normal?
2) credits rolling on Iron Man BD
3) the 'focus' on lens adjustment
how do you get into the service menu? is it up,down, right, left, ok? I tried and couldn't get in. want to check pixel offsets as suggested (what's the optimal setting?) and any other settings that can help me. thanks for any help!
LL
LL
LL
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post #735 of 2036 Old 03-24-2009, 08:28 PM
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For getting into the service menu, did you use the keys on the PJ, not on the remote? Also you need to be very fast.
____
Axel

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post #736 of 2036 Old 03-24-2009, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post

For getting into the service menu, did you use the keys on the PJ, not on the remote? Also you need to be very fast.
____
Axel

thanks. I used the remote but I don't know how I can go faster. I'll try on the PJ (a little hard cause it's ceiling mounted).
hope I can find something in there that will fix my problem!
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post #737 of 2036 Old 03-25-2009, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sycorp View Post

Thanks for your comments. This sharpness issue is really bothering me! I've attached 3 pictures and was wondering whether they are acceptable and if not are there any settings which can correct them. (my camera's old so I hope the pictures are ok)
1) for convergence. it appears that my PJ is a bit off. is this normal?
2) credits rolling on Iron Man BD
3) the 'focus' on lens adjustment
how do you get into the service menu? is it up,down, right, left, ok? I tried and couldn't get in. want to check pixel offsets as suggested (what's the optimal setting?) and any other settings that can help me. thanks for any help!

That's definately not as good as mine (camera work depending ). I'll take some photos of mine next time I have it on for comparison (probably Friday now).

I've been in the service menu a few times to adjust the iris preset values. I find that if I use both thumbs on the remote it helps with the speed. You do have to be really quick, but I usually manage after about three attempts.

There are no 'optimal' settings, IIRC mine are 4,4,4,3,3,3 but your's may well be different. IIRC I just used the white text on the service menu itself to check the adjustment, but as said before it was already as good as it gets. As soon as I changed any of the values then the white lines started to show fringing like yours does. Hopefully adjusting this will clear your focus up, though like all these things you'll never get perfection. I'm assuming that you haven't got large amounts of lens shift as this can effect sharpness and cause fringing on some projectors.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #738 of 2036 Old 03-25-2009, 07:56 AM
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Well I just pulled the trigger on the JVC RS10 from Jason. I'm looking forward to it as I tried to hold off but couldnt. I've seen both RS10/20 and they both throw a very nice picture. Coming from the HD1 so I know the picture is much sharper on the new PJs and that's what I'm looking forward to. I'll put the HD1 on ebay for cheap.

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post #739 of 2036 Old 03-25-2009, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sycorp View Post

thanks. I used the remote but I don't know how I can go faster. I'll try on the PJ (a little hard cause it's ceiling mounted).
hope I can find something in there that will fix my problem!

Just key it over and over again and eventually one series will do the trick. Try pressing two keys almost simulltaneously to speed things up.

I never got in through the remote.
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post #740 of 2036 Old 03-25-2009, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrd View Post

I never got in through the remote.

You have to become one with the remote, feel it, absorb it, reach a higher spirital plane with it.

On the other hand, just position as many fingers as you can over each button and virtually press them all at once, or get your kids to do it (all that text messaging might actually have a use after all.

I'm keen to see if Sycorp managed to fix his convergence or at least improve it some. I was so pleased to see a sharp picture all over my screen after my AE3000, which seemed a little softer on the left when zoomed right out for 2.35:1. I'm itching to watch Quantum of Solace on mine, I got the BD disc, but I'm waiting until Friday night when some friends come round......can't wait.

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post #741 of 2036 Old 03-25-2009, 01:48 PM
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My new baby are waiting to be mounted.
One white "chief ceiling mount" has just arrived
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post #742 of 2036 Old 03-25-2009, 02:16 PM
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I use a test pattern from my Lumagen since all my sources are fed from that and then adjust the grid convergence. That said, it will never be uniform accross the entire screen and only full pixel shifts are available. To do this, access to the service menue is not required. Convergence better is luck of the draw. Convergence is a problem with multiple chip machines at this price level and there is nothing much that can be done than single color grid shifts in one pixel increments. The Sony subpixel shift controls cause more harm overall than good. Converge bus the fecal matter out of me and I prefer one chippers for most viewing. Unless its something like a $60K HT-5000 which has great convergence.

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post #743 of 2036 Old 03-25-2009, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHobbit View Post

My new baby are waiting to be mounted.
One white "chief ceiling mount" has just arrived

All dressed in white, very nice.

Click the link to see pics of my home theater


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post #744 of 2036 Old 03-25-2009, 09:02 PM
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Got into the service menu both using the keys on the PJ and the remote

However, sad to say there's really not much in there! the pixel adjustment (convergence) is the same thing as in the normal menu. any changes made my convergence much worst because it only moves by 1 pixel increments. I probably need like 0.25 or less increments... everyone else here have better convergence? (this is my first projector so I had nothing to compare it to)

I tried switching HDMI cable from my cheap 33 ft (less than $29) cable to my more expensive 5 ft (same $28) cable and 'thought' that there was a slight improvement in clarity (maybe it's all in my head). I was an idiot and forgot to switch back to the cheap cable to immediately compare. Nonetheless on the Ironman credits, the text looked better than the one I posted (perhaps my photography skills or my camera is questionable.. will practice more) but still soft and not crystal clear! I further noticed that the text that shows which input is selected (when you hit input) is pretty sharp, much sharper than anything else.

I hit reset on everything that I could reset. I don't know how much lens shift I'm using because there isn't an indicator but probably not that much. I am using zoom a little bit. my projector (from lens) is about 12.3 ft from the screen (ceiling mounted).

Since there is nothing else I can do using the PJ's menu adjustments, maybe I'll have to unmount the PJ and try moving it around to see if I can get a sharper image (& perhaps better convergence) but that would definitely be my last option and something I want to avoid doing.

I could probably live with these shortcomings because watching from 12-13 ft, the picture is great but if this isn't the best the RS10 is capable of then it certainly is not acceptable. there's an A/V show this weekend and perhaps they will have RS10/20 on demo where I can compare...


Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I use a test pattern from my Lumagen since all my sources are fed from that and then adjust the grid convergence. That said, it will never be uniform accross the entire screen and only full pixel shifts are available. To do this, access to the service menue is not required. Convergence better is luck of the draw. Convergence is a problem with multiple chip machines at this price level and there is nothing much that can be done than single color grid shifts in one pixel increments. The Sony subpixel shift controls cause more harm overall than good. Converge bus the fecal matter out of me and I prefer one chippers for most viewing. Unless its something like a $60K HT-5000 which has great convergence.

So is this the best I can do with my RS10 or should I get a replacement unit and cross my fingers. I'm afraid that other problems may surface with a new unit! I have about a week to decide until my 'no questions asked' replacement warranty runs out.

Lastly, thanks for all your feedback. I'll keep trying to see if I can get a better picture or go steal a Lumis
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post #745 of 2036 Old 03-26-2009, 01:42 AM
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I don't know if you got one at the 'bad' end or I got a 'good' one, hard to say from a sample of two. I don't know if it's as bad in reality, but your 'focus' picture looked pretty soft, like mine when it isn't focused. If that really is the best it can do then I'd try another (especially as you've a 'no questions asked' returns option). If the next one is any worse, then I think you'd have a valid case for returning that as faulty.

All IMHO and YMMV, etc.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #746 of 2036 Old 03-26-2009, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

I don't know if you got one at the 'bad' end or I got a 'good' one, hard to say from a sample of two. I don't know if it's as bad in reality, but your 'focus' picture looked pretty soft, like mine when it isn't focused. If that really is the best it can do then I'd try another (especially as you've a 'no questions asked' returns option). If the next one is any worse, then I think you'd have a valid case for returning that as faulty.

All IMHO and YMMV, etc.

It does look pretty bad doesn't it. doesn't seem like it's in focus at all! I'll sharpen up my skills and try to post a better picture.
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post #747 of 2036 Old 03-26-2009, 07:46 AM
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If you can easily see the pixels in a white field, then you are focused. If it isn't in focus, you can't see the pixels (the lines between the pixels).

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post #748 of 2036 Old 03-26-2009, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

If you can easily see the pixels in a white field, then you are focused. If it isn't in focus, you can't see the pixels (the lines between the pixels).

If I put up a 100 IRE full screen pattern, I can see the pixels all over the screen when I'm close up using my I1 and laptop when calibrating. I didn't use to notice this with my AE3000, I suppose the smoothscreen had an effect even close up (like 4-6 feet away). I've had a double wammy as I only recently changed from a Greywolf II screen that had quite a texture to it, then getting the HD350 was just the icing on the cake sharpness wise.

Just as an aside, I don't have the HD350 sharpness turned up much (or the 'detail 'enhancement'), they may even just be at default. I couldn't see any haloing on test patterns so they aren't high enough to cause side effects anyway even if I did move them off the default setting.

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post #749 of 2036 Old 03-26-2009, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Just as an aside, I don't have the HD350 sharpness turned up much (or the 'detail 'enhancement'), they may even just be at default. I couldn't see any haloing on test patterns so they aren't high enough to cause side effects anyway even if I did move them off the default setting.

Try setting both Sharpness and Detail at 35. This will sharpen the image quite a bit without doing much damage. If the image looks noisy or "Dirty" cut the Detail down to 5-15.

RS20 owner.
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post #750 of 2036 Old 03-26-2009, 07:31 PM
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Well, I just bought an HD350 of my own. It will take around 2 weeks to get here and I simply cant wait! (Im upgrading from a 480p DLP Optoma, circa 2006, so the improvement should be massive.

Im a bit of a stickler for colour and image, and Im trying to justify to the wife my inention to spend bucks on the eye-one pro. Like most wives, she simply does see improvements onscreen, plus she doesnt understand gadgets and a mans need to have total control over his display devices Ive tried to tell her Ill be able to get perfect skin tones on all her Bold&Beautiful charcters (ugh), but I dont think shes all that convinced thus far

Any words of wisdom here would be appreciated!
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