Benq w6000 - Page 61 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1801 of 2424 Old 11-18-2011, 12:50 PM
Advanced Member
 
domingos38's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 842
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Do you know if it had a color wheel & did you noticed any rainbows (RBE) ?
The w6000 is bright, only has a 4x and RBE was easily detected by me and my wife.
I never noticed them at demo's of DLP projectors at stores & was quite surprised to see them on the W6000.

no color wheel
its LED DLP
domingos38 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #1802 of 2424 Old 11-19-2011, 04:53 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Big Lebowski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,610
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolme View Post

I use the I1D2 meter which is the same as yours I think.

It is the same meter so it should be adequate.

Quote:


I'll probably follow your path in those long nights with my netbook taking measurements and adjusting as I can only do it at night, I'm not in a basement.

This is correct. Calibration is best to do in completly darkened room.

Quote:


We'll see how it goes tonight. I reward my efforts usually with some videos fragments at the end and switch between presets and my own calibration. Needless to say I was frustrated yesterday and went to bed angry. I'm sure this happens to all beginners :-)

One thing I should add is that when you start adjusting the CCA try get them all just roughly in correct way. What I mean is that don't try to get one color right and then move to the next because almost every adjustment has effect on other colors too. Also don't just try to get x and y correct because once you touch Y they (x and y) will drift away.

Don't try to expand gamut. If it does not already reach the corners of the triangle you cannot really get there with adjustments but if you try to force it may mess up different saturation levels of colors.

Also keep track on gray scale all the time because it will drift when you adjust gamut.

What I did was that before touching CCA I adjusted gray scale correct in service menu but once I fiddled with CCA I then only adjusted gray scale in the CCA menu (CCA White).

When you have done this over many times enough you will be so close that you can start trying to get them perfectly right. After each adjustment take white balance and gamut measurement. Preferably measure and adjust different saturation levels. Getting just 100% saturation right does not mean all other below that are (even nearly) correct.

It is frustrating in the beginning but you'll soon get use to that process and results will be rewarding. Like you mentioned it is good to verify results by eye comparing them to old adjustments.
Big Lebowski is offline  
post #1803 of 2424 Old 11-19-2011, 09:05 AM
Senior Member
 
Coolme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 240
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I made 3 passes last night at setting contrast/brightness, lining up the grayscale and adjusting the gamut. With every sequence the adjustments were smaller and the grayscale didn't deviate much from the target anymore. I did a RGBCYM+W measurement at the end of the session (I assume it's a 100% color record instead of 100% color saturation on the AVS disc, I used 75% saturated colors for the CCA). I look at my chart and noticed green is far from where it should be and I'm not sure I can get it there, I will try again soon. I noticed there is a green tint on some video materials that shouldn't be there. I will continue this task, getting the numbers from an approximation to more precise values. I also want to take some measures with the best presets available to see if I'm not making mistakes, especially in the green department.

Edit: I've played with contrast and the color setting but couldn't fix anything. Either the x or the y of green is right but never both at the same time. Now everything is in chaos so I'll have to be happy with what I can get.
LL

 

W6000colors_chc.zip 4.21875k . file
Coolme is offline  
post #1804 of 2424 Old 11-19-2011, 09:10 AM
Senior Member
 
Coolme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 240
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
"Preferably measure and adjust different saturation levels. Getting just 100% saturation right does not mean all other below that are (even nearly) correct."

This means a lot of work. It will take me days (nights) to accomplish.
Coolme is offline  
post #1805 of 2424 Old 11-20-2011, 05:52 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Big Lebowski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,610
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolme View Post

I did a RGBCYM+W measurement at the end of the session (I assume it's a 100% color record instead of 100% color saturation on the AVS disc, I used 75% saturated colors for the CCA).

Did you also check gray scale from 0 to 100 IRE?

Quote:


I look at my chart and noticed green is far from where it should be and I'm not sure I can get it there, I will try again soon.

Edit: I've played with contrast and the color setting but couldn't fix anything. Either the x or the y of green is right but never both at the same time. Now everything is in chaos so I'll have to be happy with what I can get.

You cannot expand gamut with CCA. It seems green cannot reach its target (it is similar with W5K but not so bad as in W6K) and by trying to force it you may get other problems.

Quote:


I noticed there is a green tint on some video materials that shouldn't be there. I will continue this task, getting the numbers from an approximation to more precise values. I also want to take some measures with the best presets available to see if I'm not making mistakes, especially in the green department.

If you look at gray scale patterns do they seem greenish?


Quote:


This means a lot of work. It will take me days (nights) to accomplish.

Yes it means more work but not so much because you don't adjust all the levels. You just pick something else like 75% and try getting it right and see how other levels line up. Sometimes using 75% give you better result overral than 100%.

In my unit I ended up like this. Green was tricky but at least it is nearly perfect at 0-75% and only drifts away at 100%.
LL
Big Lebowski is offline  
post #1806 of 2424 Old 11-21-2011, 03:35 AM
Senior Member
 
Coolme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 240
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
You have a nice image dialed in.
If I can't get green much better than what I have now I don't think there's a point to spending much more time calibrating. I trhink I'll leave it there and enjoy the projector. Thanks for all the help.

... I also played with contrast, brightness and the color control to get green closer but then all the rest suffers and it gets impossible to heve red for ex. at its needed level.
Coolme is offline  
post #1807 of 2424 Old 11-21-2011, 11:33 AM
Senior Member
 
imblind's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 223
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So how reliable has the w6000 been for long term owners? I just recently purchased an Epson 3010 and the 2D picture is crap, and I'm not willing to make that tradeoff to watch a little bit of 3D content.

Will the iris annoy me if the projector is about 6 feet above me?
imblind is offline  
post #1808 of 2424 Old 11-21-2011, 03:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Coolme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 240
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I took a different approach tonight. Instead of correcting the grayscale first I did the CCA to the best I could. When I was finished the grayscale was already in good shape and there was little to adjust. This is I think the best you can do with this projector within it's limitations. Some pics of the results.

Attachements in order:
Primaries and Secondaries
Grayscale
Gamma
LL
LL
LL
Coolme is offline  
post #1809 of 2424 Old 11-22-2011, 04:08 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Big Lebowski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,610
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
It looks pretty good. As you noticed you cannot get green (and cyan of course) 100% but still other colors can be corrected. Still it should look very nice. Did you measure different saturation levels?

Did you keep Brilliant Color and Dynamic Black on? I forgot to mention about these. From what I have heard BC works much better in W6K so you could use it is you absolutely need all the lumens. DB is recommended in normal use but should be kept off during calibrating. I looked at your gamma chart and it looks to me you kept DB off.
Big Lebowski is offline  
post #1810 of 2424 Old 11-22-2011, 08:40 AM
Senior Member
 
Coolme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 240
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

It looks pretty good. As you noticed you cannot get green (and cyan of course) 100% but still other colors can be corrected. Still it should look very nice. Did you measure different saturation levels?

Did you keep Brilliant Color and Dynamic Black on? I forgot to mention about these. From what I have heard BC works much better in W6K so you could use it is you absolutely need all the lumens. DB is recommended in normal use but should be kept off during calibrating. I looked at your gamma chart and it looks to me you kept DB off.

I turned BC off for the calibration. I read this in the W5000 so I did it for the W6000. I may have a problem though with the DB iris, it doesn't seem to adjust to the content. I have it enabled in the ISF menu and I remember playing with a setting called DB Aperture position in the SM where I 'forced' it too much, but I did a factory reset since then so I hope I didn't damage it.

I measured with 75% saturation as at 100% it got to a point where adjustments made the CIE worse and I was getting out of green, blue and cyan didn't look too good. Instead of destroying what I had achieved I decided to revert back and be fine with it.

I'm not sorry anymore I purchased to color meter as I got a good use out of it and I learned on the way how to calibrate a bit.
Coolme is offline  
post #1811 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 05:15 AM
AVS Special Member
 
lawdawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Springfield, MO USA
Posts: 1,504
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just received my w6000 last night from AVS. I placed my order on Monday and it arrived Wednesday night. Amazing service. Much to my wife's delight and chagrin But I promised not to play with it on Thanksgiving day! So I'm part of the club now.

Wow, this thing is BRIGHT. Need to get into the service menu and tame this guy a bit. Projecting anywhere from 13 to 15 feet, on a 9' wide scope screen, using an ISCO II. Using a couple of bar stools as a shelf at the momment.

Blu-rays' look amazing, but DVDs look fairly bad when using the letterbox mode to scale them up for constant height. Should I try sending 480i or 480p to the projector and have it perform the scaling? Any other suggestions on improving letterboxed DVDs for scope?

The only bad thing is that I do see rainbows, so I'll be reading back through this thread to see what can be done to minimize those. Did not tell my wife what they are and she apparently can't see them. I however noticed the immediately. Not horrible, but they are there.

One note for new purchasers: I spent an hour playing around with various settings, and then decided to perform a factory reset, because I was REALLY just making changes to see the effect they have on picture. Well, after performing the reset, I had new options in the menus, which is wild. Before I did that I did not have the option for "fine tuning" gray scale in the user1, 2 and 3 modes, which is odd.

Okay, I know this is basically a stream of consciousness right now, and I apologize. Just low on sleep from tweaking and excited as all get out. Last question/comment. When changing the color wheel to 3x, the colors go wonky. Looks like a shift to a yellowish cast. Is this normal? Is calibration required once you change the color wheel speed?

Thanks!
lawdawg is offline  
post #1812 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 07:48 AM
Member
 
Krbass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Finger Lakes
Posts: 187
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Last night I was at a friends and he has a Sharp xvz9000u which is an older 720p dlp unit. I was actually amazed at the picture it produced for being 10 years old, cars and how to train your dragon looked amazing. I played some content like sin city that people see rainbows in and I noticed none. I hope this means the w6000 will be fine and my worries about RBE can just be forgotten.

I have decided on a screen size and like caradas offerings. I am just not sure what screen material to go with. Room is light controlled and I want the best blacks possible. Would a HC grey be to bright in a dark room?

Projector will be here next wed. Can not wait to fire it up.
Krbass is offline  
post #1813 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 09:13 AM
AVS Special Member
 
42Plasmaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 5,034
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdawg View Post

?

The only bad thing is that I do see rainbows, so I'll be reading back through this thread to see what can be done to minimize those. Did not tell my wife what they are and she apparently can't see them. I however noticed the immediately. Not horrible, but they are there.

My wife seen them and never told me until I asked her if she seen rainbows.
She said yes but was afraid to say anything because she thought may be she was having eye issues. Lol

Once I had her watch Sin City and asked her if she seen rainbows, we both seen them a lot.
Watching a black and white movie will let you know if you will be rainbow tolerant.
We also seen them frequently on candle flicker in movies likes the Harry Potter series.

I believe most people see rainbows but some can tolerate them while others can not.


Keeping your head still as possible and keeping blinking to a minimum will help decrease seeing rainbows.

2014
42Plasmaman is offline  
post #1814 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 09:35 AM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krbass View Post

Last night I was at a friends and he has a Sharp xvz9000u which is an older 720p dlp unit. I was actually amazed at the picture it produced for being 10 years old, cars and how to train your dragon looked amazing. I played some content like sin city that people see rainbows in and I noticed none. I hope this means the w6000 will be fine and my worries about RBE can just be forgotten.

Not necessarily.

2 major things will make the Sharp unit have less RBE over the W6000>
> Sharp has a 5x color wheel vs the W6000 4x
> Sharp is much dimmer vs the light cannon of the W6000


Quote:
Originally Posted by Krbass View Post

I have decided on a screen size and like caradas offerings. I am just not sure what screen material to go with. Room is light controlled and I want the best blacks possible. Would a HC grey be to bright in a dark room?

When picking the gain of the screen (like a grey screen), the 2 most important factors are the lumens of the PJ and the size of the screen. When know the W6000 has major lumens, but don't know the size of your screen?

Basically, the smaller the screen, the lower in gain you can go. And yes, blacks will improve with lower gain screens, but the brights will also go dimmer, so an overall dimmer image. If you run a negative gain super large screen, it can be too dim or maybe 'just right', but once your lamp starts to break-in/age, it will get dimmer, so take that into account.
fleaman is offline  
post #1815 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 09:36 AM
Member
 
Krbass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Finger Lakes
Posts: 187
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
110" is the size I will be going with.
Krbass is offline  
post #1816 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 09:38 AM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Keeping your head still as possible and keeping blinking to a minimum will help decrease seeing rainbows.

It's actually the 'darting' of the eyes. If you dart your eyes quickly across the screen (say from left to right). Though I haven't really examined the blinking thing.

This is why you usually get less RBE the further back you sit. Because up close to the screen you're darting your eyes around more to follow the action, but further back your eyes move much less.
fleaman is offline  
post #1817 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 09:46 AM
AVS Special Member
 
coderguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,951
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 139
Yup, I do see slightly less RBE on a Viewsonic, but probably because its got lower contrast, worse black levels, so it's not as likely.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

coderguy is offline  
post #1818 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 09:51 AM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krbass View Post

110" is the size I will be going with.

So the Carada HC grey is a .8 gain? Hmmm, I'd say it's kinda borderline at that size. If under 100" you could swing it, but .8 gain might be a bit much for 110".

Part of this is taste/subjective. Some people like plasma like brightness while at the other end are people that like theater like brightness, and most commercial theaters can get into the 10fL brightness or less area (they are suppose to be around 16fL, but rarely measure that). If you like it dim like a commercial theater, then you could probably swing .8 @ 110", but I don't think it gives you much leeway as the lamp dims over time.
fleaman is offline  
post #1819 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 10:04 AM
Advanced Member
 
bdbaba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 860
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Once I had her watch Sin City and asked her if she seen rainbows, we both seen them a lot.
Watching a black and white movie will let you know if you will be rainbow tolerant.

I think with Sin City, the excessive RBE is because of the special digital production method that was employed to make the movie. I have not had the same problem with other B & W movies myself. Sin City is just an RBE fest.

Even with the RBE, I still love the image this thing throws. Watched Cars 2 the other night. Great image. The last Transformers movie also had a fantastic look -- too bad the movie could not match the image.

Just ordered a 130 inch 1.5 gain Focupix 2.35:1 screen. Should be fun. The screen is sitting at the shipper and they will not deliver until Tuesday next week. D'oh! Whole four day weekend too! Oh, well.

Happy T Day.....
bdbaba is offline  
post #1820 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 10:14 AM
Member
 
Krbass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Finger Lakes
Posts: 187
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

So the Carada HC grey is a .8 gain? Hmmm, I'd say it's kinda borderline at that size. If under 100" you could swing it, but .8 gain might be a bit much for 110".

Part of this is taste/subjective. Some people like plasma like brightness while at the other end are people that like theater like brightness, and most commercial theaters can get into the 10fL brightness or less area (they are suppose to be around 16fL, but rarely measure that). If you like it dim like a commercial theater, then you could probably swing .8 @ 110", but I don't think it gives you much leeway as the lamp dims over time.

I am coming from a 50" plasma so I want a Bright image. I guess the Classic Cinema White is going to be the one I go with then.
Krbass is offline  
post #1821 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 10:38 AM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Yeah, stay away from negative gain if you want bright!
fleaman is offline  
post #1822 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 10:46 AM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdbaba View Post

I think with Sin City, the excessive RBE is because of the special digital production method that was employed to make the movie. I have not had the same problem with other B & W movies myself. Sin City is just an RBE fest.

.

Sin City is suppose to be like a black/white comic book (with some colors obviously), so lots of very contrasty images, lots of very bright whites next to very black blacks. This is much different than the smoother grey scale graduation in typical black and white film movies.

Also, Sin City is an action flick with a lot of movement, which also increases RBE, especially if you sit close to the screen (making your eyes 'dart' more across the screen). Again, most black and white Film movies aren't action movies!

One of the hardest tests for RBE is usually the rolling credits at the end of movies, as they tend to be white text on a black background. Sin City, due to the action, can be worse for RBE than rolling credits.
fleaman is offline  
post #1823 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 10:46 AM
AVS Special Member
 
coderguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,951
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 139
You probably do not want negative gain for a 110" screen with the Benq, the Benq has extremely good lumens range due to a high drop-off in lumens in ECO mode and because of the other calibration settings, plus the IRIS.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

coderguy is offline  
post #1824 of 2424 Old 11-24-2011, 11:21 AM
AVS Special Member
 
42Plasmaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 5,034
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Sin City is suppose to be like a black/white comic book (with some colors obviously), so lots of very contrasty images, lots of very bright whites next to very black blacks. This is much different than the smoother grey scale graduation in typical black and white film movies.

Also, Sin City is an action flick with a lot of movement, which also increases RBE, especially if you sit close to the screen (making your eyes 'dart' more across the screen). Again, most black and white Film movies aren't action movies!

One of the hardest tests for RBE is usually the rolling credits at the end of movies, as they tend to be white text on a black background. Sin City, due to the action, can be worse for RBE than rolling credits.

The rolling credits did not bother us or notice RBE much.
It's fast action scenes with dark bright sequences and any dark scene with flicker like a candle or even a flashlight waving around.

It's just a matter of if the amount of rainbow is tolerable or not for an individual.
I like the PQ of the w6000 but the flicker of rainbows popping up here and there does become distracting at times, especially after a few beers.

2014
42Plasmaman is offline  
post #1825 of 2424 Old 11-25-2011, 07:26 AM
Senior Member
 
karlsch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Baker City, OR
Posts: 488
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krbass View Post

110" is the size I will be going with.

I have a 100" .8 gain and the picture is extremely bright, even in low lamp mode in a room with plenty of ambient light. My estimation is a 110" screen, which is 21% larger, would also be plenty bright.

Karl S.
karlsch is offline  
post #1826 of 2424 Old 11-25-2011, 07:45 AM
AVS Special Member
 
coderguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,951
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by karlsch View Post

I have a 100" .8 gain and the picture is extremely bright, even in low lamp mode in a room with plenty of ambient light. My estimation is a 110" screen, which is 21% larger, would also be plenty bright.

An increase of 100" to 110" represents a 16% drop in brightness based on foot lamberts.

It is definitely bright enough to handle a 0.8 gain screen at that size, or even bigger, but does it really need the negative gain, such as can it get dark enough without it.

Based on the numbers I have from reviewers measurements, a 100" screen does almost need the negative gain for this projector, but it depends how close the PJ's throw is mounted to the screen (far/mid/closest), and also if someone wants the 16 fL to 18 fL target from the first 200 hours on the lamp or not, or if they do not mind being a bit brighter like around 18 fL to 24 fL.

For a real heavy user, I'd take the 1.0 gain since the lamp will catch up and self-correct a picture that might be slightly overly bright. Also remember the IRIS service menu settings if the picture is too bright at first, it can help and then you can change it back later.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

coderguy is offline  
post #1827 of 2424 Old 11-25-2011, 12:08 PM
AVS Special Member
 
ejhuzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NEPA
Posts: 1,167
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
I read the manual for the W6000 regarding lens shift, but I'm not sure I'm understanding it right. I need some vertical lens shift, so I want to make sure this PJ will work for me before buying.

My screen is 47" in height. Given that, how many inches can the PJ be ABOVE the screen?
ejhuzy is offline  
post #1828 of 2424 Old 11-25-2011, 01:02 PM
AVS Special Member
 
coderguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,951
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 139
The center of the lens can only be about 6" above the top of the screen.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

coderguy is offline  
post #1829 of 2424 Old 11-25-2011, 01:52 PM
AVS Special Member
 
ejhuzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NEPA
Posts: 1,167
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

The center of the lens can only be about 6" above the top of the screen.

Thanks coderguy, that's what I thought it was. It's about the same as W7000 and I'm sure the formula is the same. Unfortunately, I'm about 7.5" above. Looks like DLP is not for me yet.
ejhuzy is offline  
post #1830 of 2424 Old 11-25-2011, 04:28 PM
Advanced Member
 
legierk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Elysian Fields, TX
Posts: 828
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I have a 120" screen and the PJ will be mounted at about 15' (+ or - an inch). The screen is 1.1 gain (Vapex). Will this be OK WRT brightness, RBE, zoom etc? (Will be painting this weekend, so maybe next weekend I'll actually be able to hook up PJ).
legierk is offline  
Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off