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Benq w6000

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#1 ·



Benq w6000


Availability - "mid 2009 for 2000 euros (= ~$2500 US // $3200 CAN)"


(I know - technically this should be in the under $3000 forum but since it replaces the w5000 and the price on this is not officially announced it would be appropriate to at least announce this here?)


Across the pond, at CEBIT 2009, seems Benq has announced the w5000's replacement . . . . Obviously limited info so far but the highlights (gleamed from translated German and Italian coverage) include -


1. Instead of white it now comes in black piano lacquer

2. The W6000= 43 x 14.5 x 31.8cm weight of 19lbs

(vs W5000= 49 x 18 x 42cm weight of 21lbs)

3. Listed at 2500 ANSI lumens (vs 1200 for the W5000)
2500 normal mode and 1100 cinema mode

4. Listed at 30 000:1 Contrast ratio (vs 10 000:1 for the w5000) **Note the cnet report I got this from lists 50 000:1 but the crop here looks like it says 30 000:1. Anyway, its a big number.


5. 280 watt lamp (vs 200 watt on w5000)

6. Lamp life is the same 2000 / 3000 if economy

7. States still has vertical and horizontal lens shift (I think the w5000 only had vertical), but one of the german forums mentions its manual, not motorized as on the w5000

8. LOUDER at 32 normal / 29 eco compared to the w5000 at 28db

9. 2 HDMI (1.3 presumably), component, a VGA connection, S-video and Composite.

10. HQV technology and 6 segment color wheel



So basically compared to the w5000 its cheaper (excluding refurbed w5000s), piano black, smaller, brighter and has better contrast, yet louder and without motorized lens shift. . . . .
 
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#1,780 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 4 /forum/post/21208162


Any recommendation depends on your sources, content viewed, screen size, throw distance, lighting conditions, screen material, wall and ceiling colors yada, yada, yada. Please give us something to decide as to a recommendation of his projector for you.

content material: mostly blurays and dish network and sports in HD

screen size : between 120" and 130"

throw distance: not sure (between 15' and 18') whats recommended?

lightning conditions: 2 windows with blinds but going to install curtains to kinda control light coming in

wall and ceiling colors: white ceiling light brown walls and medium brown carpet



its not a dedicated HT room


its 18'x15'x 8' ceiling


screen is going on the 15' wall



THANKS
 
#1,781 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman /forum/post/21208220


Do you currently own projector?

Have you ever owned a DLP?


I preferred it over the Epson 8350 due to its crisp sharpness but I've unfortunately found that my wife and I are rainbow(RBE) sensitive.


The motion blur/jitter on blu-ray 24fps is present on side to side panning and I had to change my player output to 60fps(24fps off) and the side to side panning scenes were smoother.


DLP will have the best sharpness over LCD and LCOS.

I even checked out a JVC HD250 and RS40 this weekend and they were not as sharp as the W6000 but they do have deeper/darker blacks.

Never owned a projector before

i do have a LED DLP SAMSUNG REAR PROJECTION TV
 
#1,783 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos38 /forum/post/21208400


Never owned a projector before

i do have a LED DLP SAMSUNG REAR PROJECTION TV

Do you know if it had a color wheel & did you noticed any rainbows (RBE) ?

The w6000 is bright, only has a 4x and RBE was easily detected by me and my wife.

I never noticed them at demo's of DLP projectors at stores & was quite surprised to see them on the W6000.
 
#1,784 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos38 /forum/post/21208395


content material: mostly blurays and dish network and sports in HD

screen size : between 120" and 130"

throw distance: not sure (between 15' and 18') whats recommended?

lightning conditions: 2 windows with blinds but going to install curtains to kinda control light coming in

wall and ceiling colors: white ceiling light brown walls and medium brown carpet



its not a dedicated HT room


its 18'x15'x 8' ceiling


screen is going on the 15' wall



THANKS

If your room is only 18' deep, I would mount on the rear wall Shelf mount) or from ceiling near rear wall. If mounted from the ceiling, you will need to drop the projector down some so that lens is near the top of the screen. You need a minimum of 15'-4" horizontal distance from lens to screen for a 130" image. A 1.0 to 1.3 gain screen is what I would use with that projector. That way you would be able to use the projector in low lamp mode. Give me a call to discuss farther.
 
#1,785 ·
I see the ISF menu has more items for setting color. It's called the CCA and has xyY value for tint hue and luminance. Did anyone tweak those values? I don't know how to use them yet but it seems the standard gamut needs to be adjusted. If anyone worked with the CCA I'd like to know your settings.
 
#1,786 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman /forum/post/21209835


Do you know if it had a color wheel & did you noticed any rainbows (RBE) ?

The w6000 is bright, only has a 4x and RBE was easily detected by me and my wife.

I never noticed them at demo's of DLP projectors at stores & was quite surprised to see them on the W6000.

RBE is easier spotted in a dark room. The Optoma hd33 might be a better choice for you.
 
#1,787 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman /forum/post/21209835


Do you know if it had a color wheel & did you noticed any rainbows (RBE) ?

The w6000 is bright, only has a 4x and RBE was easily detected by me and my wife.

I never noticed them at demo's of DLP projectors at stores & was quite surprised to see them on the W6000.

My room is completely dark and I notice no rainbows. I've had several people over and they didn't notice any. I did go in service menu and change color wheel speed but prior to that, I didn't notice any rainbows. The only thing I had to do was move the projector back a few feet because it was so bright and also I had some graininess in the picture. Moving it back fixed that problem. Setting the basics...brightness, contrast, color helps. Oh, I also turned off Brilliant Color.


Let me say this about the BenQ 6000, I'm very pleased with it. I also have a HD250 and I was going to get the RS45 for 2D but decided to opt out and just keep both. I still give the advantage to the JVC but it's very slight. I actually prefer the 6000 in some movies I have compare between the two. The 6000 is very sharp!! I actually watch transformer 3 on both and obviously the 250 won the battle of black, but to me the Benq6000 was a better overall picture experience because of the sharpness and IMO, it handles motion better. For the price you can buy the BenQ for today, it's really a great value.
 
#1,788 ·
I agree the W6000 is a wonderful bargain... certainly a best buy at its current price. I wonder what it will drop to once the W7000 ships. Or perhaps the W7000 will be so much more they won't have to drop it any further. I ultimately sent my sample back. Not because I didn't like it rather it just didn't suit my current needs. A few passing thoughts...


I dropped the brightness in the service menu as it was too bright for my room. This helped the black level although ultimately that's why I gave up on it. Of course it wasn't any better than it was in 2009 but my standards have move on from there. After watching it and then viewing content in my den I was amazed how much nicer the image in there looked because of the lower black level. It was almost a completely different experience.


The loudness of the projector still bothered me although it wasn't a deal breaker in and of itself. I also still noticed the dancing pixels of DLP mostly in dark areas again not to a large degree but it still makes the image less relaxing or natural.


Finally the lack of features such as FI and 3D closed the case. If the black level was there I could have gotten over them as I find neither compelling. However, if I can get them for free when I get better blacks I'll be more than happy to have them. For someone looking for a bright 2D sharp image for HD sports or whatnot it's a great projector at a even better price.
 
#1,789 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by grouper8 /forum/post/21214251


Let me say this about the BenQ 6000, I'm very pleased with it. I also have a HD250 and I was going to get the RS45 for 2D but decided to opt out and just keep both.

I agree with your assessment entirely, having seen and owned all the techs myself, LCOS and DLP and LCD.


It is a tough decision when it comes down to black levels vs. bright scenes, especially since if your willing to give up those darker scenes and go with a DLP, you get a lot more bang for the buck.


I am RBE sensitive, but I still love DLP. I got the Viewsonic Pro8200 DLP as a holdover projector because it was so dirt cheap, and even if it is not as good as a Benq w6000 or Mits hc4000, it is really close in certain types of content (like bright scenery), but it's not quite as good for skin tones.


Anyhow, even these cheap 1080p DLP's produce a pretty good image. I was going to get the Benq w6000 maybe, but the fact I had a JVC coming already made me want to stick with a lower-end DLP and not waste too much more money for now.
 
#1,790 ·
Is there one post in this thread that gives various settings that many seem to be using?


I.e. Adjust speed of color wheel - to what? where in the service menu?

Turn Dynamic Iris on/off? How? Where in the service menu?

Adjust brightness in the service menu. How?


Would be a huge benefit if someone had the time to consolodate all the settings info into one guide.
 
#1,791 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by legierk /forum/post/0


Is there one post in this thread that gives various settings that many seem to be using?


I.e. Adjust speed of color wheel - to what? where in the service menu?

Turn Dynamic Iris on/off? How? Where in the service menu?

Adjust brightness in the service menu. How?


Would be a huge benefit if someone had the time to consolodate all the settings info into one guide.

I agree, my w6000 will be here this week and I would love a bit of settings info
 
#1,792 ·
I have spent quite a bit of time with this projector, mostly in a room with some ambient lighting. I thought it had a great picture but the rainbows made it a no-go for me to own.


Disclaimer - I have had a history of rainbow susceptability, was really hoping this would be the model that I didn't see rainbows on. Unfortunately, it wasn't.
 
#1,793 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krbass /forum/post/21215877


I agree, my w6000 will be here this week and I would love a bit of settings info

I will post my settings in a few days. One thing you have to remember, my brightness setting might not be ideal for your environment. same with contrast and tint...etc... A must is the AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray Calibration disc that is a free download.
 
#1,794 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner /forum/post/21216090


I have spent quite a bit of time with this projector, mostly in a room with some ambient lighting. I thought it had a great picture but the rainbows made it a no-go for me to own.


Disclaimer - I have had a history of rainbow susceptability, was really hoping this would be the model that I didn't see rainbows on. Unfortunately, it wasn't.

I have never been susceptible to RBE and never have seen it until I got a W6000 in a light controlled room.

I tweaked the PQ where it looked nice but the RBE was not tolerable even though it occurred infrequently.

I thought that I could ignore it/live with it but my wife kept saying, "did you see that rainbow" then of course, I would start seeing them.


Just blinking or turning me head during a bright scene or when candles were in the picture was enough to see the RBE.


Watching Sin City(black & white) was the real eye opener that this projector was not for me.


I also could not for the life of me get the Contrast test on the Disney WOW to pass/align.
 
#1,795 ·
Thanks for the various replies. I can do a basic calibration with the various discs I have. Anything in the user menu is pretty much a given for me at least. I, and possibly others, are interested in the service menu settings and a step by step guide in how to adjust the various settings. What are the various controls (that users here have adjusted) in the service menu and what changes do they make? I am building my theater room and am on the downhill run (should be painting next weekend). I really don't have time to scour almost 1800 posts to gather this info. Many users already know the info anyway. All the info is appreciated as always, just looking for a one stop shop. Many threads have all that info in the first post, although I realize only the OP can do that.
 
#1,796 ·
I spent the last two days calibrating the CCA from the Benq. I entered the measured values and desired values for all primaries and secondaries but I can't figure out what to put for desired gain/luminance (Y). The range goes from 0 to 2000. In measured value you set White to 1000 and all others to their relative output value. But how does desired luminance work? The range goes from 0 to 2000 and I have seen many results in the W5000 thread (same CCA) with luminance for red over the 1000 mark. I'm a bit confused and although my xy coordinates are at their right locations my image is now dimmer. Does anyone have any experience with the W6000 and could help me out with this problem? Thanks.
 
#1,797 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolme /forum/post/21227610


I spent the last two days calibrating the CCA from the Benq. I entered the measured values and desired values for all primaries and secondaries but I can't figure out what to put for desired gain/luminance (Y). The range goes from 0 to 2000. In measured value you set White to 1000 and all others to their relative output value. But how does desired luminance work? The range goes from 0 to 2000 and I have seen many results in the W5000 thread (same CCA) with luminance for red over the 1000 mark. I'm a bit confused and although my xy coordinates are at their right locations my image is now dimmer. Does anyone have any experience with the W6000 and could help me out with this problem? Thanks.

You should adjust desired Y so that your measured (not the CCA measured field but what your measuring gear tells you) Y is right for each color. Adjustments are not absolute values so you need to measure and based on that turn up or down. That's how it works in W5K and I don't think it is any different in W6K.

Just leave measured Y as it is, just adjust x and y. Then with desired x, y and Y you adjust until all all correct or as good as can be.

I can say it is very time consuming and almost every change in some value will move something else too. You need to keep white balance in eye too. Once you have done this many times you are close target and changes needed get smaller and smaller.
 
#1,798 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski /forum/post/21227658


You should adjust desired Y so that your measured (not the CCA measured field but what your measuring gear tells you) Y is right for each color. Adjustments are not absolute values so you need to measure and based on that turn up or down. That's how it works in W5K and I don't think it is any different in W6K.

Just leave measured Y as it is, just adjust x and y. Then with desired x, y and Y you adjust until all all correct or as good as can be.

I can say it is very time consuming and almost every change in some value will move something else too. You need to keep white balance in eye too. Once you have done this many times you are close target and changes needed get smaller and smaller.

Yes that's what I thought. I've been on the W5000 thread and noticed you posted about the CCA. My xy were correct when I finished yesterday although I didn't bother with gain yet but the results were disappointing, colors were off and the image was generally much dimmer. I'll do the measure & adjust tonight using the Gamut, Saturation, Brightness chart and see if I can get the Ys where they need to be. Do you have any tips as how to do all this and still have enough light output? This is indeed time consuming and I hope it will be worth it.
 
#1,799 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolme /forum/post/21227757


My xy were correct when I finished yesterday although I didn't bother with gain yet but the results were disappointing, colors were off and the image was generally much dimmer.

If Y is not right, colors will be off. Adjusting Y is as important as x and y.

Quote:
I'll do the measure & adjust tonight using the Gamut, Saturation, Brightness chart and see if I can get the Ys where they need to be. Do you have any tips as how to do all this and still have enough light output? This is indeed time consuming and I hope it will be worth it.

You may get more lumens by adjusting Y correct but you must also accept that fully calibrated picture will be much dimmer than uncalibrated.

You probably get used to it in few days and later on learn to appreciate correct colors and gray scale. That's how it went in my case. Light output in my unit was somewhere below 10ftl and now after couple of years likely much lower but I still find picture stunning and accurate.


This is very time consuming. I spent several nights no sleep doing it. It was worth but I'm still tired...



One thing to consider is that not every probe is suitable for gamut work. I used i1 Display LT. So if after all that work picture does seem obviously wrong then your probe is probably not suitable for the task.
 
#1,800 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski /forum/post/21227895


If Y is not right, colors will be off. Adjusting Y is as important as x and y.



You may get more lumens by adjusting Y correct but you must also accept that fully calibrated picture will be much dimmer than uncalibrated.

You probably get used to it in few days and later on learn to appreciate correct colors and gray scale. That's how it went in my case. Light output in my unit was somewhere below 10ftl and now after couple of years likely much lower but I still find picture stunning and accurate.


This is very time consuming. I spent several nights no sleep doing it. It was worth but I'm still tired...



One thing to consider is that not every probe is suitable for gamut work. I used i1 Display LT. So if after all that work picture does seem obviously wrong then your probe is probably not suitable for the task.

I use the I1D2 meter which is the same as yours I think. I'll probably follow your path in those long nights with my netbook taking measurements and adjusting as I can only do it at night, I'm not in a basement. We'll see how it goes tonight. I reward my efforts usually with some videos fragments at the end and switch between presets and my own calibration. Needless to say I was frustrated yesterday and went to bed angry. I'm sure this happens to all beginners :)
 
#1,802 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolme /forum/post/21228408


I use the I1D2 meter which is the same as yours I think.

It is the same meter so it should be adequate.

Quote:
I'll probably follow your path in those long nights with my netbook taking measurements and adjusting as I can only do it at night, I'm not in a basement.

This is correct. Calibration is best to do in completly darkened room.

Quote:
We'll see how it goes tonight. I reward my efforts usually with some videos fragments at the end and switch between presets and my own calibration. Needless to say I was frustrated yesterday and went to bed angry. I'm sure this happens to all beginners :)

One thing I should add is that when you start adjusting the CCA try get them all just roughly in correct way. What I mean is that don't try to get one color right and then move to the next because almost every adjustment has effect on other colors too. Also don't just try to get x and y correct because once you touch Y they (x and y) will drift away.


Don't try to expand gamut. If it does not already reach the corners of the triangle you cannot really get there with adjustments but if you try to force it may mess up different saturation levels of colors.


Also keep track on gray scale all the time because it will drift when you adjust gamut.


What I did was that before touching CCA I adjusted gray scale correct in service menu but once I fiddled with CCA I then only adjusted gray scale in the CCA menu (CCA White).


When you have done this over many times enough you will be so close that you can start trying to get them perfectly right. After each adjustment take white balance and gamut measurement. Preferably measure and adjust different saturation levels. Getting just 100% saturation right does not mean all other below that are (even nearly) correct.


It is frustrating in the beginning but you'll soon get use to that process and results will be rewarding. Like you mentioned it is good to verify results by eye comparing them to old adjustments.
 
#1,803 ·
I made 3 passes last night at setting contrast/brightness, lining up the grayscale and adjusting the gamut. With every sequence the adjustments were smaller and the grayscale didn't deviate much from the target anymore. I did a RGBCYM+W measurement at the end of the session (I assume it's a 100% color record instead of 100% color saturation on the AVS disc, I used 75% saturated colors for the CCA). I look at my chart and noticed green is far from where it should be and I'm not sure I can get it there, I will try again soon. I noticed there is a green tint on some video materials that shouldn't be there. I will continue this task, getting the numbers from an approximation to more precise values. I also want to take some measures with the best presets available to see if I'm not making mistakes, especially in the green department.


Edit: I've played with contrast and the color setting but couldn't fix anything. Either the x or the y of green is right but never both at the same time. Now everything is in chaos so I'll have to be happy with what I can get.


 

W6000colors_chc.zip 4.21875k . file
 

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