Benq w6000 - Page 73 - AVS Forum
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post #2161 of 2424 Old 03-25-2012, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post

I have noticed 24hz is louder too but lately after 20 seconds it gets just quiet as when its at 60hz.

I verified mine stays louder... I waited a good 30 seconds and the color wheel was still much louder with a higher pitch. I have firmware 1.02...
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post #2162 of 2424 Old 03-25-2012, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damthrill View Post

When dynamic is selected can you push the green tint out any way?

Only help is to turn Brilliant Color on... which doesn't help a lot.
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post #2163 of 2424 Old 03-25-2012, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frosteh View Post

I did a big search and was unlucky in finding any conclusive information. How does this compare to the Optoma HD8600 and the Infocus IN83? Which throws out the best picture. My room is light controlled and has a 120" 2.35 screen. I also watch sports so I'd like to be able to torch the screen with lights on. Color in brightest mode doesn't really matter as long as it's not disgusting.


For a while, I owned an Optoma HD86(00) before this.


The Optoma has these advantages:
+ Slightly better native contrast
+ Slightly deeper black level
+ Arguably sleeker looking chassis
+ Arguably slightly "smoother" and more "refined" in its picture quality
+ Global iris
+ Less fan noise
+ A little less RBE if you're sensitive

The W6000 has these advantages:
+ Bigger, better lens and focus ring
+ Slightly sharper
+ BRIGHTER! It'd be hard to go back to anything dimmer after this
+ Joystick lens shift easier to get to and operate
(big deal for my poor-man's CIH setup)
+ Faster, superior dynamic iris
+ Better menu system
+ Better remote control
+ More sensibly priced (especially in Australia)
+ More tweakable
+ Heat vents from the sides


Although the black levels could be better (damn, I wish the W7000 used a DC3 or DC4 chip), they're still very good, and a simple masking system like you'll see by clicking on my signature below will make an absolutely unbelievable difference in perceived contrast and PQ.

Why more folks don't do this, I'll never know...
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post #2164 of 2424 Old 03-26-2012, 03:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis View Post



Although the black levels could be better (damn, I wish the W7000 used a DC3 or DC4 chip), they're still very good, and a simple masking system like you'll see by clicking on my signature below will make an unbelievable difference in perceived contrast and PQ.

Why more folks don't do this, I'll never know...

I have been for years. This was the primary reason I went to a FP in the first place. I just couldn't stand watching 2:35:1 movies on a 16:9 TV. My setup is a bit more crude than yours, but works (I have a couple of hinged shutters that I can flip up/down). Nice setup.
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post #2165 of 2424 Old 03-26-2012, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis View Post

For a while, I owned an Optoma HD86(00) before this.


The Optoma has these advantages:
+ Slightly better native contrast
+ Slightly deeper black level
+ Arguably sleeker looking chassis
+ Arguably slightly "smoother" and more "refined" in its picture quality
+ Global iris
+ Less fan noise
+ A little less RBE if you're sensitive

The W6000 has these advantages:
+ Bigger, better lens and focus ring
+ Slightly sharper
+ BRIGHTER! It'd be hard to go back to anything dimmer after this
+ Joystick lens shift easier to get to and operate
(big deal for my poor-man's CIH setup)
+ Faster, superior dynamic iris
+ Better menu system
+ Better remote control
+ More sensibly priced (especially in Australia)
+ More tweakable
+ Heat vents from the sides


Although the black levels could be better (damn, I wish the W7000 used a DC3 or DC4 chip), they're still very good, and a simple masking system like you'll see by clicking on my signature below will make an absolutely unbelievable difference in perceived contrast and PQ.

Why more folks don't do this, I'll never know...

Haggis:

I agree with you, its going to be hard to go back to a dimmer projector but hopefully every FP will be released with 3D capability and will therefore be brght. I know I was on the fence from going from the W5000 to a W6000 but I'm more than happy with the W6000. I have the W6000 paired with a Dalite JKP .8 gain screen and I have NEVER seen the W6000 look this good.

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post #2166 of 2424 Old 03-26-2012, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post

Haggis:

I agree with you, its going to be hard to go back to a dimmer projector but hopefully every FP will be released with 3D capability and will therefore be brght. I know I was on the fence from going from the W5000 to a W6000 but I'm more than happy with the W6000. I have the W6000 paired with a Dalite JKP .8 gain screen and I have NEVER seen the W6000 look this good.

Good point. Here's hoping.

One more time... B-U-G-G-E-R that the W7000 doesn't seem to have a deeper black level or improved contrast.

Sticking in a DC3 or ideally a DC4 chip would've been so easy, and won over so many existing Benq owners for whom 3D isn't enough reason to upgrade.
(I wonder if Mr Benq's reading this?)

W7500 anyone?
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post #2167 of 2424 Old 03-27-2012, 08:49 AM
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I was wondering what the difference is between brightness and contrast?? Since changing any one of those seems to do exactly the same thing!! Is it better to have a higher contrast?? Thx for any help!
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post #2168 of 2424 Old 03-27-2012, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stylz25 View Post

I was wondering what the difference is between brightness and contrast?? Since changing any one of those seems to do exactly the same thing!! Is it better to have a higher contrast?? Thx for any help!

Brightness = Adjusts the black levels
Contrast = Adjusts the white (bright) levels

Use a calibration disc to adjust them. Or at the very least, the THX optimizer on Pixar discs.
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post #2169 of 2424 Old 03-27-2012, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis View Post

One more time... B-U-G-G-E-R that the W7000 doesn't seem to have a deeper black level or improved contrast.

I'm kind of happy about it. It makes the W6000 (if one doesn't care about 3D) all the more enticing at their 1k close-out prices.
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post #2170 of 2424 Old 03-27-2012, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post

I'm kind of happy about it. It makes the W6000 (if one doesn't care about 3D) all the more enticing at their 1k close-out prices.

Is anybody matching Fry's close-out pricing?
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post #2171 of 2424 Old 03-27-2012, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post


Brightness = Adjusts the black levels
Contrast = Adjusts the white (bright) levels

Use a calibration disc to adjust them. Or at the very least, the THX optimizer on Pixar discs.

Which calibration disc do you guys recommend??? Interested in purchasing one for my projector and tv! Thx!
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post #2172 of 2424 Old 03-27-2012, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post

Haggis:

I have the W6000 paired with a Dalite JKP .8 gain screen and I have NEVER seen the W6000 look this good.

Mike, kind of a silly question - but how much dimmer has the 0.8 screen made your W6000's image? Has the white level lost it's "spark"?

I painted my own screen last year. It's a 2400 x 1200 sheet of MDF with a matte white tinted slightly gray. The tint worked out to be a little darker than a 1.0, but it's hard to say how much.

Ever since, I've been tossing up whether to repaint to bring it closer to 0.8 (or even darker) or buy an ND filter, as Coolme has done here.
(He didn't seem too happy with that.)
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post #2173 of 2424 Old 03-27-2012, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stylz25 View Post

Which calibration disc do you guys recommend??? Interested in purchasing one for my projector and tv! Thx!

You can download a free one from here at AVS> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
Download and burn a DVD.

Print out the manual and your good to go.
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post #2174 of 2424 Old 03-27-2012, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis View Post

Mike, kind of a silly question - but how much dimmer has the 0.8 screen made your W6000's image? Has the white level lost it's "spark"?

I painted my own screen last year. It's a 2400 x 1200 sheet of MDF with a matte white tinted slightly gray. The tint worked out to be a little darker than a 1.0, but it's hard to say how much.

Ever since, I've been tossing up whether to repaint to bring it closer to 0.8 (or even darker) or buy an ND filter, as Coolme has done here.
(He didn't seem too happy with that.)

Haggis:

Its actually a .9 gain screen but I read a review and it measure a little less than .9. When I first got the W6000 I projected it on a Dalite cinema contour 92 inch white 1.3 gain screen and Damn did the it POP off the screen but it was so bright it would cause headaches, eyestrain, just too bright. I was able to move the projector as back as I could to tame the brightness along with low lamp mode but it was still too bright. My idea was to get a 110-120 inch 1.0 gain white screen, but I came across a deal on a Dalite JKP .9 gain 100 diagonal screen for $500. I thought about for a day, 120 vs 100 inch, good screen material vs great screen material and I jump at the chance of owning a JKP screen. I love white screens and I was a little worried since the JPK screen is listed as light grey but when it got deliveryed and I opend it up the screen material looks closer to white than grey. I did bring my W6000 to my buds house and he has a 100inch Stewart firehawk 1.28 gain and the image still jump off the screen and the blacks were BLACK, I watched clips from Avatar, Underworld, Tron, no matter what movie we thru at it the POP and black levels were awesome. We did a mini shoot out between the W6000 and his Sony VW9000 and I prefered the W6000, I just love the DLP pop and I will say the Sony did have the smoother image though. So I was eager to see how the W6000 would look on the JPK .9 gain screen, I was worried that the bright whites and pop would be gone. I thru my test disk in and had to change, Brightness, Contrast, and color due to switching from a 1.3 gain to a .9 gain screen. I have watched several movies and the bright whites and pop are still there, the image just has an analog look to it now: just so damn smooth. The digital look and little noise I seen on my 1.3 gain screen are totally gone, everyone that has seen this set-up has told me its like looking thru a window. The image has so much depth to it, u feel like u can just jump into the screen and u swear your watching a 3D movie everytime u fire it up. After getting the new screen I feel like I got a new projector too, thats how big of an improvement the screen made. The Dalite 1.3 gain screen is a very nice screen but seeing them side by side the JKP material is as smooth as a babies ass. I could live with a firehawk 1.28 gain screen because the image was smooth, great blacks, and the pop was still there, but with the JPK.9 screen the blacks were deeper than my 1.3 white screen but not as black as the firehawk but the image on the JKP was like there was no screen at all. The botton line is I jump on a chance to get a $2000 screen for $500 and I could not be happier. I will try to post pics later

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post #2175 of 2424 Old 03-27-2012, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

You can download a free one from here at AVS> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
Download and burn a DVD.

Print out the manual and your good to go.

Thx!!
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post #2177 of 2424 Old 03-28-2012, 06:06 PM
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i did calibration using project review. does anybody have better settings, including those that cone be done in isf settings?
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post #2178 of 2424 Old 03-28-2012, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damthrill View Post

i did calibration using project review. does anybody have better settings, including those that cone be done in isf settings?

Sorry, but that is not a 'calibration'.
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post #2179 of 2424 Old 03-28-2012, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis View Post


The Optoma has these advantages:
+ Slightly better native contrast
+ Slightly deeper black level
+ Arguably sleeker looking chassis
+ Arguably slightly "smoother" and more "refined" in its picture quality
+ Global iris
+ Less fan noise
+ A little less RBE if you're sensitive

The W6000 has these advantages:
+ Bigger, better lens and focus ring
+ Slightly sharper
+ BRIGHTER! It'd be hard to go back to anything dimmer after this
+ Joystick lens shift easier to get to and operate
(big deal for my poor-man's CIH setup)
+ Faster, superior dynamic iris
+ Better menu system
+ Better remote control
+ More sensibly priced (especially in Australia)
+ More tweakable
+ Heat vents from the sides


Although the black levels could be better (damn, I wish the W7000 used a DC3 or DC4 chip), they're still very good, and a simple masking system like you'll see by clicking on my signature below will make an absolutely unbelievable difference in perceived contrast and PQ.

Why more folks don't do this, I'll never know...

Nice comparison there. I agree about the w6000 being an incredible deal lately, even for $1500. The fact some people got it at $1000 is really crazy, I almost bought one for almost $3k a few years ago, but the RBE is tough on me with these 4x wheels so I went with a JVC.

I also agree about the sharpness, text is crystal clear on this projector as long as the lens element isn't messed up (only a few people had this issue I believe). I've seen a few say the $3k+ DLP's are sharper than this Benq, but it's not visibly, you cannot perceive sharpness beyond this point unless you sit stupidly close to the point of ridiculousness. People saying you need to spend $5k to get the sharpest DLP have not actually compared the Benq, which is razor sharp and as sharp as it gets for perceivable sharpness. $3k in the used market gets better black levels, but not more sharpness (and if it does get more sharpness you won't be able to see it).

Also the black levels are pretty good and people just need to find their sweet spot with the IRIS tweaks in this thread.
I think this IRIS is probably the best one on a DLP for under $5k, it's just some of the more expensive DLP's have higher NATIVE On/Off to start with so they have an unfair advantage.

I also wish the W7000 had improved on black levels, but it's impossible for them to increase brightness per wattage for 3D and make significant black level improvements at the same time in this price range. Black level improvements require a lot more than changing to DC 3 or even DC 4, it needs heavy optical coatings on the lens and mirrors which are not only expensive, but they reduce the brightness.


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post #2180 of 2424 Old 03-29-2012, 04:49 AM
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OK sorry I've not read all the previous pages. I have a query about the W6000 and a search did not come up with anything that helps, so here goes. I used to own a W5000 and at about 1500 hours, it developed a case of the "dreaded vertical stripes". Anyhow, rather than fix that, I elected to replace it with a W6000. Today, I accidentally pressed one of the buttons that changes the User mode and the screen went blank and would not come back on no matter what I did. Nothing on screen including the menu. The lamp was still on and the fan running. It was as if all the mirrors suddenly turned away to form a black screen. The only way I could fix this was to power down. As it turned out, I have never loaded the setting into the User 2 and 3, but I would have thought that should not matter as there are already factory setting there. The unit has powered back up OK and I was able to use it tonight. Anyone else experience anything similar and if so, what was the outcome.

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post #2181 of 2424 Old 03-29-2012, 05:43 AM
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[quote=CAVX;21842310]OK sorry I've not read all the previous pages. I have a query about the W6000 and a search did not come up with anything that helps, so here goes. I used to own a W5000 and at about 1500 hours, it developed a case of the "dreaded vertical stripes". Anyhow, rather than fix that, I elected to replace it with a W6000. Today, I accidentally pressed one of the buttons that changes the User mode and the screen went blank and would not come back on no matter what I did. Nothing on screen including the menu. The lamp was still on and the fan running. It was as if all the mirrors suddenly turned away to form a black screen. The only way I could fix this was to power down. As it turned out, I have never loaded the setting into the User 2 and 3, but I would have thought that should not matter as there are already factory setting there. The unit has powered back up OK and I was able to use it tonight. Anyone else experience anything similar and if so, what was the outcome.[/QUOTE

It usaully goes black for a second or two and then a picture will appear, seems like the Iris got stuck or had troubles switching modes. I have never had that issuem I would contact Benq if it happens again.

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post #2182 of 2424 Old 03-29-2012, 12:01 PM
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Need some of your folks placement help, kind of split between W6000 and W1200 with W6000 being my preference.

92" 16:9 pull up screen and the height of the screen can be adjusted to go low or high. PJ will be 9 - 10 feet away from screen on a coffee table, the table is 19 inches high from the ground.

With my limited knowledge I am not able to figure out from the calculators if my coffee table placement will work for W6000, it does tell me that I need to be 10 feet away from the screen for W6000 and W1200 can be at 9.4 feet away.

W1200 seems to be a better fit but I like W6000, any thoughts will be great!
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post #2183 of 2424 Old 03-29-2012, 12:18 PM
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Can anyone share settings that they have tried for a while, including the ones in the isf menu?

thanks,
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post #2184 of 2424 Old 03-29-2012, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVM View Post

W1200 seems to be a better fit but I like W6000, any thoughts will be great!

w6000 is the better buy, w1200 has gaming lag and is unusable in games, whereas the Benq w6000 probably has under 50ms gaming lag. The w1200 does have some additional features, like 120hz (5:5 pulldown as well as Frame Interpolation). Some may prefer the motion on the w1200 to the w6000, but I don't think it really matters (personally I don't like FI and 5:5 pulldown doesn't help much either). Other than that, the w6000 has the lens shift capability for better placement flexibility, and the w1200 will need to be ceiling mounted, whereas the w6000 can be shelf mounted or ceiling mounted with a drop-pole.

The w6000 has better blacks with the IRIS enabled, the w1200 has slightly higher Native on/off to start with but no IRIS to improve blacks beyond the default black level. The w6000 is slightly more refined, and a more expensive projector. The w6000 is the better choice IMHO if going by most attributes.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post


It usaully goes black for a second or two and then a picture will appear, seems like the Iris got stuck or had troubles switching modes. I have never had that issuem I would contact Benq if it happens again.

Yeah, not 20 mins right? Lucky this is under warranty this time.

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post #2186 of 2424 Old 03-29-2012, 07:10 PM
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Also what is the FW that allows CMS? I have FW1.01 on the W6000, yet I can't seem to get the results I am after. Tips anyone?

Here are the charts from my last calibration.





LL
LL
LL
LL
LL

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post #2187 of 2424 Old 03-29-2012, 08:38 PM
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This is a bit off topic from what is currently being discussed, but does anyone have a screenshot or printout of the frys.com ad which had the w6000 at $999? I was told by a Frys representative that I could get a rain check for that price but that I'd need the printout of the page. I unfortunately don't have that page and would greatly appreciate it if someone would send it to me. Thanks!

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post #2188 of 2424 Old 03-29-2012, 08:53 PM
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Actually it's a DC2.
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post #2189 of 2424 Old 03-30-2012, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

Also what is the FW that allows CMS? I have FW1.01 on the W6000, yet I can't seem to get the results I am after. Tips anyone?

The yellow and magenta being that far off will probably cause some side effects, but adjusting CMS too much could also cause side effects. In the end when it comes to this stuff, you have to partly trust your eyes and not just the meter. If you need a fairly neutral skin tone test disc, tree of life works for this, good skin tones in most of the scenes, the DVE test disc also has some ok skin tone tests, although some of the people in that one have a lot of color in their skin because of makeup or something.

I would just keep trying multiple calibrations until you find one with the best average concessions.

Keep in mind that on the primary colors that Luminance is more important than HUE, and on the secondary colors HUE is more important, well this is according to my Calman calibration software anyhow. In my experience, it just depends how far off things are, you don't want any one thing too far off, you just need most things close, but it depends on every projector individually to some degree since calibrating the CMS can have side effects at times.


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post #2190 of 2424 Old 03-30-2012, 07:25 AM
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looks great.

Mary Brown is a GM with 12 yrs experience in the field of Business Transcription, audio transcription & voice transcription. She works for Synergy Transcription Services, NJ, USA.
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