Benq w6000 - Page 82 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2431 of 2458 Old 11-19-2014, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runekc View Post
Is that the only way to turn down the light? What about the iris is there any tricks?
If you search this thread you'll find your way into the service menu where you can tame the brightness all you want... down to total darkness.

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post #2432 of 2458 Old 11-19-2014, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post
If you search this thread you'll find your way into the service menu where you can tame the brightness all you want... down to total darkness.
Hi, yes I have been in the service menu and adjusted the DB setting but nothing "sticks" it reverts to standard after power cycle, plus I am not 100% sure which parameter to adjust.

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post #2433 of 2458 Old 11-19-2014, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runekc View Post
Hi, yes I have been in the service menu and adjusted the DB setting but nothing "sticks" it reverts to standard after power cycle, plus I am not 100% sure which parameter to adjust.
Benq w6000
Benq w6000

Adjust Max to kill the brightness and Min to reduce the black level. As far as sticking I don't remember... just that the color wheel speed never stuck.

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post #2434 of 2458 Old 11-21-2014, 05:19 AM
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Hi again, well I can't get the iris settings to "stick" but for now I live with it but another issue I have is the ISF settings, after calibration in the ISF menu it doesn't "load" the ISF profile after power cycle, is there any setting I have overlooked? Thank you in advance

Best regards

Rune

Last edited by runekc; 11-21-2014 at 05:20 AM.
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post #2435 of 2458 Old 02-25-2015, 06:40 PM
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Can someone help me out? My bulb that I replaced recently blew and was still under warranty. I just got the replacement back in the mail, but I have misplaced the piece of paper telling me which side of the connector is positive. I have to install the bare bulb into the housing. I know the wire coming off the back of the bulb is the positive, I'm just not sure which wire coming from the black connector is positive and negative. The connector end only fits in one way, so I know it will be correct going from housing to PJ. I also had written down the orientation of the bulb within the housing, but I'm not sure if that matters or not.

Help!
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post #2436 of 2458 Old 02-28-2015, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by HingisFan View Post
Can someone help me out? My bulb that I replaced recently blew and was still under warranty. I just got the replacement back in the mail, but I have misplaced the piece of paper telling me which side of the connector is positive. I have to install the bare bulb into the housing. I know the wire coming off the back of the bulb is the positive, I'm just not sure which wire coming from the black connector is positive and negative. The connector end only fits in one way, so I know it will be correct going from housing to PJ. I also had written down the orientation of the bulb within the housing, but I'm not sure if that matters or not.

Help!
Do you have a link as to where you bought the bulb?

All BenQ lamps come with the housing included. The knock offs require you to install a bulb in the housing. BenQ lamps are 2year 2000 hour warranty on these W6000's there's docs still somewhere if you google indicating as such.

How much did you pay?? My genuine BenQ ones have been $263 Canadian, but I have had 2 that blew within 200 hours. My W6000 is currently around 12,500 hours. Would be interested in saving some money in the future.

As for your question, the polarity of the bulb should not matter as it is just 2 electrodes that arc to fire the gas inside the bulb then maintain a voltage to keep it illuminated. The electrodes do not physically touch or have a filament. In fact, I believe it is a high voltage AC current that runs the bulb so polarity really wouldn't matter in that case. They are very similar to HID head lights, just more precise and calibrated manufacturing for color and output.

How did these 'aftermarket' bulbs work compared to the original BenQ lamp? I typically see a noticable drop off in brightness at 1500 hours, and almost unusable past 1700 in Economy mode.
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post #2437 of 2458 Old 03-01-2015, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by predator314 View Post
Do you have a link as to where you bought the bulb?

All BenQ lamps come with the housing included. The knock offs require you to install a bulb in the housing. BenQ lamps are 2year 2000 hour warranty on these W6000's there's docs still somewhere if you google indicating as such.

How much did you pay?? My genuine BenQ ones have been $263 Canadian, but I have had 2 that blew within 200 hours. My W6000 is currently around 12,500 hours. Would be interested in saving some money in the future.

As for your question, the polarity of the bulb should not matter as it is just 2 electrodes that arc to fire the gas inside the bulb then maintain a voltage to keep it illuminated. The electrodes do not physically touch or have a filament. In fact, I believe it is a high voltage AC current that runs the bulb so polarity really wouldn't matter in that case. They are very similar to HID head lights, just more precise and calibrated manufacturing for color and output.

How did these 'aftermarket' bulbs work compared to the original BenQ lamp? I typically see a noticable drop off in brightness at 1500 hours, and almost unusable past 1700 in Economy mode.
So, it doesn't matter where I put positive or negative, or which way I have the bulb turned???

This is my first bulb replacement in this one, I was told that genuine bulbs are pretty much all phillips or osram anyway so I thought I might as well just buy the bare bulb. Bought from Exclusivebulbs on amazon, they seem to have a good rep and good customer service.
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post #2438 of 2458 Old 03-01-2015, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HingisFan View Post
Can someone help me out? My bulb that I replaced recently blew and was still under warranty. I just got the replacement back in the mail, but I have misplaced the piece of paper telling me which side of the connector is positive. I have to install the bare bulb into the housing. I know the wire coming off the back of the bulb is the positive, I'm just not sure which wire coming from the black connector is positive and negative. The connector end only fits in one way, so I know it will be correct going from housing to PJ. I also had written down the orientation of the bulb within the housing, but I'm not sure if that matters or not.

Help!
Looked at the housing from the plug side, bulb facing downward, the leads are on the right (which is also the side *without* the dust screen on the housing). The leads are different lengths, longer one obviously goes to the lamp tab furthest from the plug.

Also, looking at the housing in the same orientation, the short wire is on the left side of the plug. Maybe that's what you really needed? Both are black, dunno which is positive.

Last edited by talon95; 03-01-2015 at 08:37 AM.
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post #2439 of 2458 Old 03-02-2015, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by talon95 View Post
Looked at the housing from the plug side, bulb facing downward, the leads are on the right (which is also the side *without* the dust screen on the housing). The leads are different lengths, longer one obviously goes to the lamp tab furthest from the plug.

Also, looking at the housing in the same orientation, the short wire is on the left side of the plug. Maybe that's what you really needed? Both are black, dunno which is positive.
Sorry can you explain that again? I'm holding the housing, bulb pointing to the floor, plug at 12 o'clock. Metal honeycomb thing is at 3 o'clock side. Would leads go to 9 o'clock side then? Thanks so much!
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post #2440 of 2458 Old 03-05-2015, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HingisFan View Post
Sorry can you explain that again? I'm holding the housing, bulb pointing to the floor, plug at 12 o'clock. Metal honeycomb thing is at 3 o'clock side. Would leads go to 9 o'clock side then? Thanks so much!
Yes, opposite side of the honeycomb.
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post #2441 of 2458 Old 03-06-2015, 01:20 PM
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Thanks!
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post #2442 of 2458 Old 09-14-2015, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runekc View Post
Hi again, well I can't get the iris settings to "stick" but for now I live with it but another issue I have is the ISF settings, after calibration in the ISF menu it doesn't "load" the ISF profile after power cycle, is there any setting I have overlooked? Thank you in advance

Best regards

Rune
Anyone able to adjust the iris setting and get it to stick? I want it at 75 but I have to manually set it every time I turn the projector on.
It reverts to 60 which I find is not clamping down enough.
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post #2443 of 2458 Old 09-17-2015, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by thxave View Post
Anyone able to adjust the iris setting and get it to stick? I want it at 75 but I have to manually set it every time I turn the projector on.
It reverts to 60 which I find is not clamping down enough.
You are aware that it subtracts 13 after changing it and power cycling?
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post #2444 of 2458 Old 10-02-2015, 12:22 PM
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I'm hoping someone here can help with what might be a stupid question...

I'm trying to disable the iris on my projector, at least temporarily for calibration purposes. I'm using the ISF menu to adjust my picture.

I have dynamic black turned off. However, when a movie is silent, I can hear a sound from the projector when the screen goes immediately to/from a light to dark scene. The best I can describe it is like the noise from a mechanical hard drive. Is this the iris or something else entirely? I seem to remember the iris being a high pitched sound, so I'm thinking it's something else.
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post #2445 of 2458 Old 10-02-2015, 01:14 PM
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That's weird, it should be off but that is exactly what it sounds like. It can be disabled in the service menu too.
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post #2446 of 2458 Old 10-03-2015, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by talon95 View Post
That's weird, it should be off but that is exactly what it sounds like. It can be disabled in the service menu too.
Thank you! I disabled it in the service menu, and heard it open up to what I presume is the "off" position, I think that solves it for me if the setting sticks.
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post #2447 of 2458 Old 01-31-2016, 11:33 AM
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Benq w6000

Anyone here that uses his/her W6000 mostly for gaming and FPS games such as Battlefield, can elaborate on the input lag of this projector?

I am shopping around for a gaming 1080p projector and I have narrowed it down to the BenQ W6000 and Sony HW40ES. I can get a used W6000 for about $800 (less than 10 hours on lamp) and the Sony 40ES can be found used for ~$1500. Basically, I can save HALF by going with the W6000.

All I need to know is if the input lag on the W6000 is low. The Sony 40ES's input lag on game mode has been clocked at 24ms.

Regards,

Efrain "AviatorBimmer" Ruiz

Last edited by ERuiz; 01-31-2016 at 12:34 PM.
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post #2448 of 2458 Old 03-08-2016, 08:47 PM
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Does anyone know what the model # of the Philips(?) bulb used in the W6000 is? thx
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post #2449 of 2458 Old 03-31-2016, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post
If you search this thread you'll find your way into the service menu where you can tame the brightness all you want... down to total darkness.
Can someone PM me how to access the service menu to get to the various testing patterns
thx
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post #2450 of 2458 Old 05-02-2016, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by cgott42 View Post
Can someone PM me how to access the service menu to get to the various testing patterns
thx

on menu screen go to info menu last to the right and press up-down -up-down .be very carefull in there . good idea to shoot photos of original settings before change something.
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post #2451 of 2458 Old 05-02-2016, 12:09 PM
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thanks
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post #2452 of 2458 Old 07-06-2016, 08:25 AM
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Has anyone replaced their bulb recently with one NOT from BenQ? Looking for an OEM bulb, but thinking I *might* be able to get it cheaper than the $300 BenQ is asking.
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post #2453 of 2458 Old 08-22-2016, 09:37 PM
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Has anyone replaced their bulb recently with one NOT from BenQ? Looking for an OEM bulb, but thinking I *might* be able to get it cheaper than the $300 BenQ is asking.
I have purchased 6 bulbs now from this seller. They work fine, and for the price I've been swapping them out every 500 hours to keep that 'like new' clarity/brightness. I've ran one up to 1350 hours, at which point it was about on part with a BenQ at 1500 hours.

Price is right, especially when you order 2-3 at a time. They take anyways from 6 to 9 weeks to arrive to Canada when I've ordered.

Seller is great, I've had a tab on one bulb that wasn't threaded for the screw. They asked me to snap a photo so they could confirm and send a replacement for free. Turns out I managed to thread a different screw in and use it anyways.

I'm at 16,634 lifetime hours on my W6000. I've fully disassembled and reassembled it 3 times over the last 6 years to fully clean it and haven't really had any major issues. Some minor annoyances from time to time with iris stopping in a dumb spot on start up (even when disabled), but easily corrected.

See my next post for link.
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post #2454 of 2458 Old 08-22-2016, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by predator314 View Post
I have purchased 6 bulbs now from this seller. They work fine, and for the price I've been swapping them out every 500 hours to keep that 'like new' clarity/brightness. I've ran one up to 1350 hours, at which point it was about on part with a BenQ at 1500 hours.

Price is right, especially when you order 2-3 at a time. They take anyways from 6 to 9 weeks to arrive to Canada when I've ordered.

Seller is great, I've had a tab on one bulb that wasn't threaded for the screw. They asked me to snap a photo so they could confirm and send a replacement for free. Turns out I managed to thread a different screw in and use it anyways.

I'm at 16,634 lifetime hours on my W6000. I've fully disassembled and reassembled it 3 times over the last 6 years to fully clean it and haven't really had any major issues. Some minor annoyances from time to time with iris stopping in a dumb spot on start up (even when disabled), but easily corrected.

See my next post for link.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Compatible-bare-projector-lamp-bulb-5J-J2605-001-for-W5500-W6000-W6500/32284186236.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.54.htcrX6


Just a note, the price on this is super low now, $33USD.. They used to be about $117. I've noticed no drop in quality, and I have tried both their genuine OEM bulb (Osam/Phillips) and compatible bulbs. They look slightly different for how the leads were, but performed pretty much identical, so went with compatible for all future orders.
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post #2455 of 2458 Old 08-22-2016, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runekc View Post
Hi, yes I have been in the service menu and adjusted the DB setting but nothing "sticks" it reverts to standard after power cycle, plus I am not 100% sure which parameter to adjust.
Aperature Min is what you'll want to change to limit the 'brightest' or wide open position of the aperture/iris. 12-13 is typically the default.

See latest reply about the service menu for tips on DB Aperture.
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post #2456 of 2458 Old 08-22-2016, 10:06 PM
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I figured I'd put together my own thoughts on the DB Aperture menu since so many people are having trouble using it or keeping settings. Hopefully this explains things a bit and helps someone.


DB Aperture menu - This is found in the Service menu, do so at your own risk -- Menu, Information tab, Up, Down, Up, Down

DB Aperture Position - This displays the current position (this value does not update in real time, you must exit the DB Aperture menu and re-enter it to see the updated current position)

DB Aperture Max. - This sets the maximum (closed) position Dynamic Black (iris) will use

DB Aperture Min. - This sets the minimum (wide open) position Dynamic Black (iris) will use (This is the position the aperture is moved to on power up when Dynamic Black is disabled.

DB Reset - This resets the aperture to 0, then to the aperture min position. This is useful after a sudden power loss, or if the aperture position appears to be 'drunk' (too open or too closed at all times -- screen super dim from a power on) For some reason, you can run this 3 times, and each time it ends up at a different 'home' position, one of them being correct.

DB Enable - Turns Dynamic Black on or off without leaving the menu

Reset DB Max/Min Aperture - Clears all DB Aperture values back to default for your firmware (after you select this, exiting the DB aperture menu and them re-selecting it will show all default values)

DB Aperture Position Calibration - This will attempt to calibrate the position of the aperture (metal disc in light path with a slot that widens the light path as it's rotated). Be warned that this will exit the service menu after running, and there's a chance you'll end up with the aperture disc completely blocking the light path. You can sometimes power up and down (removing plug after full power down) to get the aperture to rotate to the 'home' or 0 position.

Quick tips:
- Aperture Min and Max will have no realtime affect if DB Enable is Off
- Aperture Position manually moves the aperture, but will only work if DB Enable is Off, otherwise DB holds the aperture where it desires

Quick steps to tweak this area as a starting point:
- Set DB Enable to Off
- Adjust the aperture position up and down to see how the values affect the picture in realtime.
* Note * the 'Aperture position' value listed does not update as the aperture position changes, if you hit exit then re-enter the DB Aperture menu, that value gets updated, it is for informational purposes only.
- You should notice the image is brightest around 13, if this isn't the case, the aperture disc is likely out of position, and you may benefit from selecting DB Reset until it is bright when positioned at 13.
- You should also notice the image is it's darkest around 55-60.
- Take note of what point you want as your brightest and power on point, set your DB Min to this, typically 13.
- Take note of what point you want as your lower light output, set this as your DB Max, typically around 54.
- You can now set DB Enable On and it will auto adjust the aperture position
- If you didn't achieve your desired effect, try Reset DB Min/Max Aperature to set settings back to defaults, or the other settings mentioned in this thread.

It would be a good idea to carefully note the key presses to enter the Service menu and enter the DB Aperature menu, then select the DB Reset option. If you run in a scenario where the aperture disc is blocking the light path from power on, you can press that key sequence to regain enough light to use the on-screen menu again and recover.
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post #2457 of 2458 Old Today, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by predator314 View Post
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Compatible-bare-projector-lamp-bulb-5J-J2605-001-for-W5500-W6000-W6500/32284186236.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.54.htcrX6


Just a note, the price on this is super low now, $33USD.. They used to be about $117. I've noticed no drop in quality, and I have tried both their genuine OEM bulb (Osam/Phillips) and compatible bulbs. They look slightly different for how the leads were, but performed pretty much identical, so went with compatible for all future orders.

How are these bulbs working out for you so far? I just took a chance and ordered a couple of 'em for my BenQ W7500 at $55USD each. Hope they're as good as you say
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post #2458 of 2458 Old Today, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by isamu View Post
How are these bulbs working out for you so far? I just took a chance and ordered a couple of 'em for my BenQ W7500 at $55USD each. Hope they're as good as you say
They are still working fine. Although I think it's about time to replace my beloved W6000. The last couple weeks, at almost 17,000 hours I'm having light engine (ballast) issues. Have a genuine BenQ lamp installed, and it's about 70% brightness after only 80 hours, had another that was barely usable with only 450 hours (again another genuine lamp), any other new lamp has also done the same, OE or cheapie from online. Sometimes, I receive a Lamp error on power on, even on a new bulb. Unplugging the projector for a couple minutes resolves the issue, but still low light output after 70-80 hours on any lamp is not acceptable. I've tried the same lamps in another W6000 and they are fine.
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