Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB) - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 731 Old 10-04-2009, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

One thing to try:
Take your calibration in Dynamic mode where you calibrated to 6500K and 75% saturations, and gamma. (the one with the low light output, just a little higher than natural mode). Now, redo your greyscale with the red reduced significantly so that you can boost your contrast and get a lot more lumens. Don't touch your color saturaion, hue's or brighntess. How does it look on Blu-ray? You'll notice that your entire color gamut will be shifted to the left, but I'm curious if it looks o.k. to you. I need to go back and try this, since I can't remember how it looked since I jumped right into color saturations, hues... once I had reset my greyscale to 7500K.

I will try that. However, as FYI, per the .chc files my Living Room mode came out about 6400K as measured after gray scale (with color temp set to 6500) and my Dynamic mode measured out around 6900K after gray scale (with color temp set to 7000k). Which one do you suggest I use? You said Dynamic but I am wondering if it was a type. Because my Dynamic was not calibrated to 6500K per your comment above, and I wasn't sure if you saw something in those files that caused you to specifically suggest I use Living Room (rather than Dynamic) mode. My current Living Room does not yet have the "green hue" trick and measures Y=30.733 at 100% gray, my current Dynamic does have the "green hue" trick and measures Y=37.668, my current Natural has no need of any hue trickeration and measures Y=26.784. (recall that Knd's post #294 settings for Living Room measured Y=52.351)

Oh, and what do you consider a significant reduction in red?
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post #452 of 731 Old 10-04-2009, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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My green saturation is about maxed out (and hue is all the way towards blue), and blue saturation is around -5. By Red and yellow are around -30 to -40 for saturation. Yellow hue is adjusted towards red to make it look correct. My bulb has a lot of hours on it though, and I have the 1080UB.

My main color setting is at zero, which I forgot to change before I started calibrating Dynamic mode. I have found that -10 to -12 is a good starting point for natural mode, so I may go back and redo my Dynamic calibration with the -10 setting for color, but it looks good enough to me now that I probably won't mess with it for a while.

Dan
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post #453 of 731 Old 10-09-2009, 05:40 AM
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davedelite,
I've been travelling and just got back.

You've got the 75% technique down in my opinion. I may have mislead you on contrast. What I do is lower contrast to help dial in gamma. The next to the last slider on the custom gamma is pulled down almost to the max, for most of my gamma's. I think this allows me to have a higher contrast. I may run out of red slightly, but my experience had been that my gamma at 80% and 90% were diving down to 1.6 or 1.7, so I was pulling contrast down some to help with that. You may want to try this to see if you can get your Y value up - your projector is capable - because with my settings for LR you have a Y @ 100% of 52 cd/m2.

On your dynamic, were you trying Dan's technique of calibrating gray scale to 7000, because that's what the file looks like to me. Also you were sucessful in shifting the green toward Cyan, but the 75% green location was closer to 50% than 75%. This has been my issue. I can't get it toward Cyan but was able to get it closer to 75% (I'll post this with my problem next).

I tried Dan's technique of calibrating to 7000 (or higher) and had absolutely no luck at all. I could get a reasonable gray scale, but I didn't have enough control movement to get red back to where it needed to be at the 75% saturation point.

You might want to try to tackle the Y issue by bumping contrast up and pulling the gamma sliders down (at the high end only) to see if you can get more brightness and still keep the gamma flat.
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post #454 of 731 Old 10-09-2009, 05:44 AM
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davedelite,
Attached is my original LR files if that helps.

 

LR low 270.zip 382.9599609375k . file
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post #455 of 731 Old 10-09-2009, 05:54 AM
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I've got a problem that I hope you folks can help me with.

I redid my dynamic calibration to try and improve green. I got a reasonable results, but when viewing some of the skin tones look very unreal. I'm having a hard time trying to find the term to describe them. It looks like the color is not attached to the rest of the image. I've seen this on a couple of Blu Rays, and also on HDTV, both dark sceens and light sceens. It is alway a tan (both light tan and medium tan, but not as noticeable for dark tan). Also it only happens when viewed from a glancing angle (as opposed to straight on), and is more noticeable when the skin tone is shiny.

BTW this issue does not appear with my natural calibration.

Do you think this is due to my calibration, my projector, compression issues with the source, or could my higher ftL's be highlighting an issue with LCD projectors? It looks very digital and almost floating.

Files attached.

 

Dynamic low 135 hrs.zip 382.970703125k . file
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post #456 of 731 Old 10-09-2009, 02:21 PM
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Attached are 2 pictures that show the problem. These are from Hancock.

Notice his forehead and the area around her mouth. I don't know what's causing this, but I don't have this with my natural calibration.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
LL
LL
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post #457 of 731 Old 10-09-2009, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Not sure I've seen that exact problem before, but I do seem to notice if for any given color, either the brightness or saturation is close to maxed out, or maxed out. Things don't seem to work out so well when you need to max out saturation or brightness in either direction.

I almost regret bringing up calibrating to anything other than D65, as it's given me headaches too, but here is more info. Again, there is no reason to do this unless you absolutely need more lumens, perhaps from an aging bulb. Regarding calibrating to 7000K or so... Since it is not a perfect calibration anyway, and the objective is to get more lumens, I would suggest this:
1) Calibrate Dynamic or Living room mode as my guide suggests, to the greyscale of D65, even if it means you need to reduce contrast a lot to get there. Get the color saturation and hue where they should be for each color(75% mothod).
2) Increase contrast to boost your lumens
3) Now go back and redo greyscale, knowing that you will be lacking red... coming in at 6800, or 7000, 7200... but keep the greyscale consistant from black up through 100% grey.
4) Leave the color gamut alone (you already set it in step one). Trying to go back to 75% saturation points will can cause errors.
5) Get some good reference material and touch up color saturation, hue and brightness by eye. I noticed that yellow and red seem to get affected the most.

Dan
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post #458 of 731 Old 10-10-2009, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knd View Post

Attached are 2 pictures that show the problem. These are from Hancock.

Notice his forehead and the area around her mouth. I don't know what's causing this, but I don't have this with my natural calibration.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I was having the exact same problem when calibrating my projector for the first time, and the only simple way i found out to correct that problem in those images was making a pause on the movie that i use to test (Dark Knight, in a scene with close ups and white and dark surroundings)and adjust the gamma sliders slightly until the faces and the surroundings look ok to my view. I known this shouldn't be the best way to correct this but it works well and with less work.
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post #459 of 731 Old 10-10-2009, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazofio View Post

I was having the exact same problem when calibrating my projector for the first time, and the only simple way i found out to correct that problem in those images was making a pause on the movie that i use to test (Dark Knight, in a scene with close ups and white and dark surroundings)and adjust the gamma sliders slightly until the faces and the surroundings look ok to my view. I known this shouldn't be the best way to correct this but it works well and with less work.

Thanks. I was going to work on this later this morning and will try that along with Dan's suggestion on brightness and saturation.
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post #460 of 731 Old 10-10-2009, 12:48 PM
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Hi Knd -- I had the same problem in one of my calibrations. The problem was a "rogue" gamma setting; it seems that when one or 2 of the sliders is way off from the surrounding points, it can mess things up like this. I reduced my gamma outliers and redid the gammas and it all worked itself out.
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post #461 of 731 Old 10-10-2009, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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knd,

You didn't forget to turn your iris off when you adjusted gamma did you? Leaving the iris on will totally screw up your gamma, and can easily display what you are seeing.

Also, like Jaketh said, the gamma sliders shouldn't be wildly different. Here are where mine were at a few months ago. 0, -6, -10, -11, -12, -13, -11, -15, 0

Dan
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post #462 of 731 Old 10-11-2009, 05:22 AM
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Thanks everyone. I recalibrated dynamic (low lamp) yesterday and I have it resolved. I'm not sure what fixed it, but here's what I did:
1) Redid brightness and contrast (I had intentionally pushed contrast lower to have about 14 ftL on previous calibration).
2) Gray scale & gamma. Had to do about 5 of these to get reasonable results (I should probably pull contrast down a little more because my gamma @ 90 is too low, but I wanted to view for a while and see what it is like). I have my gamma sliders all negative with the next to last on the right maxed out at -32. I want to watch some before I mess with this to see how much the green issue bothers me to see if I'll keep this cal as my normal viewing cal. I watched some HDTV football and the grass looks a little yellow but really not bad.
3) I lowered the main Saturation from 21 down to 10. I was trying this to raise my green 75% point (it bothers me that the y value was so close to the 50% point and was trying to move this point by using the main saturation control).
4) I then did the 75% saturation point calibration. In the end I think yellow was causing these issues. I had the brightness toward maximum previously (main saturation at 21) and I think that was messing up the skin tones.

I'll attach the files tomorrow when I'm using my laptop.

Thanks again and I think the fix was keeping yellow from the extreme end of its controls.
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post #463 of 731 Old 10-12-2009, 04:59 AM
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Thanks Dan. I learn that auto iris lesson the hard way a few weeks ago, so I'm pretty diligent about making sure that it is off, FI is off, contrast enhancement is off, and noise reduction is off, before I start. Boy, was my gamma screwy that one time I left it on.

Attached are my newest dynamic calibration. I know my 90% gamma is too low, but I wanted to watch some to see what it really looked like. I'll probably do one more version of this calibration this coming weekend to fix the 90%, and I may drop my overall saturation to +5 and see if I can still get green close to the y value of the 75% saturation point.

I watched the President's cup and some football yesterday and overall I really like the looks of this - although you can tell that the HDTV quality of the different networks also has a big impact on the quality of the picture. I haven't watched any BD yet, and will probably do that after I do my touch up cal. My high lamp natural cal is technically better and is bright enough (9.5 ftL from HCFR) for me, so I use that for movies.

 

Low lamp dynamic 160 hrs.zip 383.095703125k . file
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post #464 of 731 Old 10-15-2009, 08:55 AM
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First to Dan. Thanks so much for this guide. I just recently purchased a refurbished 6500ub direct from Epson, and the difference between calibrated and uncalibrated is amazing.

But I have an issue...(of course)

I did 2 calibrations using HCFR and an EyeOne LT. One with standard 100% saturation method, and one with 75% saturation as in this guide. Both calibrations are dead on for grayscale and gamma. My graph for 100% saturation looks a lot like the one in the 1st post with saturation compressed towards white. My 75% saturation has the 75% points dead on. 25% and 50% are close, and 100% is way off. If I was to draw lines between points on the 100% saturation calibration, the lines would be perfectly straight. The lines on the 75% saturation calibration corkscrew a bit.

My problem is skin tones in bright scenes just don't look right with the 75% method. Everyone looks kind of sickly yellow or green. The 100% calibration looks amazing, and after seeing that I'm having a hard time watch with the 75% calibration, even though the picture overall is much punchier.

I'm only on page 7 of reading through this post, and I'll continue reading, but has anyone found a middle ground between 75% and 100% calibration? I want the color punch, but I want good skin tones in bright scenes. Perhaps this is too much to ask of the Epson. If so I'll probably use the 100% calibration and boost overall saturation until skin tones start to seem off. Perhaps I can keep taking saturation measurements until the lines between points are no longer straight and that will give me a good result.

Thanks again for this guide. The spreadsheet saved me so much time in the calibration! When I purchased my last projector (Sharp XV-Z10000) there was no cheap calibration hardware or software around. I'm amazed for just $140 I can do my own very high quality calibration in less than 1 hour!

Chris
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post #465 of 731 Old 10-16-2009, 12:21 PM
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So if you do a normal full 75% calibration with the color temp set to 6500k and decide to bump up the temp to 7000k or 7500k all you need to do is go back and check greyscale?
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post #466 of 731 Old 10-26-2009, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazofio View Post

I was having the exact same problem when calibrating my projector for the first time, and the only simple way i found out to correct that problem in those images was making a pause on the movie that i use to test (Dark Knight, in a scene with close ups and white and dark surroundings)and adjust the gamma sliders slightly until the faces and the surroundings look ok to my view. I known this shouldn't be the best way to correct this but it works well and with less work.

I just did a recalibration Saturday and faced this problem again. I froze the picture when this was particularly noticeable and selected "adjust gamma from picture". I then moved the bullseye over the "smeared" area and selected the slider that made the area of the picture flash. I pulled it down 2 clicks and the "smearing" disappeared.

Thanks for this suggestion and also to Dan. This one gamma slider was quite a bit different than the sliders on either side and I'm guessing that's what caused it.

It was quite easy to fix and I could see the correction take place as I was making it.
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post #467 of 731 Old 10-26-2009, 05:02 AM
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I just got a PRO1 meter and wanted to see how my LT compared to it. Here's what I did:
1) Selected High lamp, Natural setting on my 6500UB
2) Calibrated using the LT and Dan's 75% sat method
3) Checked the calibration with the PRO1 (files attached "Nat High 230 hrs PRO1 reading of LT cal.zip").
4) Recalibrated using PRO1 (Files attached "Nat High 230 hrs. PRO1 cal.zip").
5) Offset LT against PRO1 (Files attached "PRO1 to LT offset.zip")
6) Checked PRO1 cal with the LT offset (Files attached "Nat High 230 hrs LT offset of PRO1 cal.zip").

All went well and the LT offset of the PRO1 cal seems to match quite well.

The problem is that I did a calibration of dynamic low lamp with the PRO1 and then checked it with the LT offset, and they were not close at all.

I may not understand how an offset works. It looks like I need to create a new offset matrix for the different lamp and preset modes of the projector. Does this make sense? I was under the impression that an offset would be valid regardless of the number of lumens or preset, but maybe because the 6500 moves a lense out of the light path for dynamic that this messes up the offset.

Thoughts/comments on the calibrations and the offset problem would be greatly appreciated.

I plan on doing a dynamic calibration with the PRO1 and then creating a new offset matrix for the LT and checking that against the PRO1 to see if it works.

 

Nat High 230 hrs PRO1 readings of LT cal.zip 414.755859375k . file

 

Nat High 230 hrs PRO1 cal.zip 435.1220703125k . file

 

PRO1 to LT offset.zip 9.8916015625k . file

 

Nat High 230 hrs LT offset measure of PRO1 cal.zip 383.298828125k . file
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post #468 of 731 Old 10-26-2009, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Knd,

I’m so glad you did the comparison of the i1pro to the LT. I’ve been having this delema with my LT meter, where everything seemed too warm (too much red). Your results seem to agree with what I’ve been seeing with my own eyes with my LT. When I do my calibration, the grayscale has always appeared redder than it should. If your LT is reading like mine, then my eyes are not deceiving me. Your i1pro measurements show that your LT meter had red at close to 10% too high throughout the grayscale! (and this impacts the color locations as well)

What’s interesting about that, is I’ve tried to set my grayscale by eye and it required reducing red by roughly 11% from where the LT said it should be! This agrees very well with your results.

As far as setting up the conversion matrix, here is what you do. (Looking at your calibration files, they weren’t setup properly to do the conversion offset, like your 75% saturation reference triangle in there)

1) Take only a grayscale, and Primary and Secondaries measurement with the LT meter. Do not do saturations.
2) Save this file.
3) Take the exact same set of measurements with the i1pro meter.
4) Save this file.
5) Go to the i1pro measurement file, and click the Reference measure box.
6) Go to the LT measurement file, and choose Advanced, XYZ Coordinate Adjustment Matrix, Compute conversion matrix from reference document, then click yes.

Now if you do a new set of measurements with the LT meter, have the XYZ adjustment box checked, and it should match the original i1pro file very closely. You have now trained the LT to the i1pro.

Once you do this, can you share those files? I’d be very interested in trying out that conversion matrix with my LT just for kicks to see if it looks better by eye to me with my meter.

Dan
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post #469 of 731 Old 10-26-2009, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post
Knd,

Im so glad you did the comparison of the i1pro to the LT. Ive been having this delema with my LT meter, where everything seemed too warm (too much red). Your results seem to agree with what Ive been seeing with my own eyes with my LT. When I do my calibration, the grayscale has always appeared redder than it should. If your LT is reading like mine, then my eyes are not deceiving me. Your i1pro measurements show that your LT meter had red at close to 10% too high throughout the grayscale! (and this impacts the color locations as well)

Whats interesting about that, is Ive tried to set my grayscale by eye and it required reducing red by roughly 11% from where the LT said it should be! This agrees very well with your results.

As far as setting up the conversion matrix, here is what you do. (Looking at your calibration files, they werent setup properly to do the conversion offset, like your 75% saturation reference triangle in there)

1) Take only a grayscale, and Primary and Secondaries measurement with the LT meter. Do not do saturations.
2) Save this file.
3) Take the exact same set of measurements with the i1pro meter.
4) Save this file.
5) Go to the i1pro measurement file, and click the Reference measure box.
6) Go to the LT measurement file, and choose Advanced, XYZ Coordinate Adjustment Matrix, Compute conversion matrix from reference document, then click yes.

Now if you do a new set of measurements with the LT meter, have the XYZ adjustment box checked, and it should match the original i1pro file very closely. You have now trained the LT to the i1pro.

Once you do this, can you share those files? Id be very interested in trying out that conversion matrix with my LT just for kicks to see if it looks better by eye to me with my meter.

Dan

I certainly will share the files. I have a couple of questions:
1) From other posts it looks like I only need to do RGBW, not all of the measurements that you suggest. See http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1183823&page=2 Post #42.

2) I used the 75% stimulus for RGBW for the conversion matrix, and the matrix should be in the file attached.

I'm confused as to why it seemed to work well for Nat High lamp, but did not work for Dynamic Low.

 

PRO1 to LT offset.zip 9.8916015625k . file
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post #470 of 731 Old 10-26-2009, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knd View Post

I certainly will share the files. I have a couple of questions:
1) From other posts it looks like I only need to do RGBW, not all of the measurements that you suggest. See http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1183823&page=2 Post #42.

2) I used the 75% stimulus for RGBW for the conversion matrix, and the matrix should be in the file attached.

I'm confused as to why it seemed to work well for Nat High lamp, but did not work for Dynamic Low.


Here's the offset LT Vs the Pro1, so it looks to me like I did the offset correctly for Natural High Lamp.

What am I missing?
LL
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post #471 of 731 Old 10-26-2009, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knd View Post

Here's the offset LT Vs the Pro1, so it looks to me like I did the offset correctly for Natural High Lamp.

What am I missing?

It does look like you are doing it right. After looking at the help section of HCFR, it turns out all you need to measure are the primary colors and the white point like you said.

I would have thought that the offset would be valid regardless of projector mode as well.

Dan
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post #472 of 731 Old 10-26-2009, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

It does look like you are doing it right. After looking at the help section of HCFR, it turns out all you need to measure are the primary colors and the white point like you said.

I would have thought that the offset would be valid regardless of projector mode as well.

Dan

I'm going to do some more testing tonight. Here's what I'm going to do.

1) Go back to my Saturday calibration for natural high, and run the offset LT again. See if it changes much.
2) Calibrate gray scale & gamma with the PRO1 on Dynamic Low (I already did this, but want to check it).
3) Run the LT natural high offset on the dynamic low cal by the PRO1, and see what the difference is.
4) If off, do a new offset matrix for Dynamic Low and then see if that works.

What do you think of this approach? Hope I can get it done tonight.
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post #473 of 731 Old 10-26-2009, 05:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Knd,

I calibrated my natural mode, high lamp, with your LT offssets, and it gave me the best calibration I've seen yet to date. I know there is meter to meter variance, but my LT meter seems to behave similar to yours. (similar red error)

I noticed that my greens, blues and yellows have much more of a natural looking hue especially, and grays seems much more neutral than the red push I was seeing before. If I get a chance, I'll attach my results tomorrow.

Thanks for sharing your conversion matrix. I look forward to tackling Dynamic now that I'm happy with the conversion matrix that you created. Hopefully the matrix(offset) will be universal for me and allow Dynamic to look much better as well. With 1600 hours on my bulb, I don't use natural mode much, and rely on Dynamic for the extra lumens.

Dan
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post #474 of 731 Old 10-27-2009, 12:43 AM
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will it matter using the conv matrix from knd to do natural low

as i have the red in grey scale to from my one lt

regards denis
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post #475 of 731 Old 10-27-2009, 12:50 AM
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i have the 1080 not the ub, whats the best lumens ftl for the eye one 10.5 or as high as i can get it???

thanx for calibration
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post #476 of 731 Old 10-27-2009, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post
Knd,

I calibrated my natural mode, high lamp, with your LT offssets, and it gave me the best calibration I've seen yet to date. I know there is meter to meter variance, but my LT meter seems to behave similar to yours. (similar red error)

I noticed that my greens, blues and yellows have much more of a natural looking hue especially, and grays seems much more neutral than the red push I was seeing before. If I get a chance, I'll attach my results tomorrow.

Thanks for sharing your conversion matrix. I look forward to tackling Dynamic now that I'm happy with the conversion matrix that you created. Hopefully the matrix(offset) will be universal for me and allow Dynamic to look much better as well. With 1600 hours on my bulb, I don't use natural mode much, and rely on Dynamic for the extra lumens.

Dan
That's great news about the conversion matrix working for you. Attached is the dynamic conversion matrix.

I did quite a bit of testing last night and ran gray scale and gamma for 3 different scenarios for this dynamic matrix and it correlated quite well with the Pro1. (I checked it against the Saturday dynamic conversion, made some gamma and gray scale adjustments with the Pro1 and then checked this, and then zoomed my lense in as small as I could and ran the Pro1 and the LT offset and they were quite close). I wasn't going to attached all of the files unless you would like to see them. I also went back and checked the conversion matrix (offset) for nat high and it again lined up quite well. So I'm pretty confident that we need at least 2 offsets: Natural and Dynamic.

I get worried when I calibrate a few days later and the Y value is different that just a few day earlier. Sometimes it is higher and sometimes it is lower. I think I'm aligning the meter the same way each time, but for some reason my cd/m^2 can vary quite a lot (1-2 at 100%). Anyway it is reassuring that the dE's between the different days is low, so I'm getting more comfortable with the Pro1, but it is harder to use than the LT (at least for me it is).

In the attachment I also have a gray scale of a Pro1 calibration, so you can see that the dE's are pretty good.

Let me know what you think.

 

LT offset to PRO1 Dynamic Low.zip 4.7333984375k . file
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post #477 of 731 Old 10-27-2009, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by d4g View Post

will it matter using the conv matrix from knd to do natural low

as i have the red in grey scale to from my one lt

regards denis

I'm still experimenting but I think the Nat High will work for Nat Low. I think it is the lense that Epson has in front of the lense for everything but Living Room and Dynamic that is causing 2 different offsets.

I haven't tried Nat Low, but this is what I believe from what I have done so far. Why don't you try it and let us know.

I'll try a cal sometime and see.
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post #478 of 731 Old 10-27-2009, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by d4g View Post

i have the 1080 not the ub, whats the best lumens ftl for the eye one 10.5 or as high as i can get it???

thanx for calibration

In my limited experience, it all depends on your room. I've read where people with very dark rooms have as low as 6 -7 and think the picture looks good. I have a dark room and my nat high is at 9.5 - 10 right now, and it is plenty bright (this reading is from HCFR and not a light meter). I was using natural low lamp with my previous unit and was getting 7.5 ftL with that and thought it looked very good. I just like the calibration of high lamp better, but that was with the LT, so I may do a calibration with the Pro1 and see how it turns out.

I'm getting about 14 - 15 ftL on Dynamic Low, and that seems too bright for movies for me, but OK for sports.
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post #479 of 731 Old 10-27-2009, 10:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Knd View Post
That's great news about the conversion matrix working for you. Attached is the dynamic conversion matrix.

I did quite a bit of testing last night and ran gray scale and gamma for 3 different scenarios for this dynamic matrix and it correlated quite well with the Pro1. (I checked it against the Saturday dynamic conversion, made some gamma and gray scale adjustments with the Pro1 and then checked this, and then zoomed my lense in as small as I could and ran the Pro1 and the LT offset and they were quite close). I wasn't going to attached all of the files unless you would like to see them. I also went back and checked the conversion matrix (offset) for nat high and it again lined up quite well. So I'm pretty confident that we need at least 2 offsets: Natural and Dynamic.

I get worried when I calibrate a few days later and the Y value is different that just a few day earlier. Sometimes it is higher and sometimes it is lower. I think I'm aligning the meter the same way each time, but for some reason my cd/m^2 can vary quite a lot (1-2 at 100%). Anyway it is reassuring that the dE's between the different days is low, so I'm getting more comfortable with the Pro1, but it is harder to use than the LT (at least for me it is).

In the attachment I also have a gray scale of a Pro1 calibration, so you can see that the dE's are pretty good.

Let me know what you think.
Here's my calibration file. I didn't spend much time on gamma, but it was accepable enough. Very happy with the greyscale tracking and the color gamut. You'll see that my measured brightness off the screen is only around 5 ftL. It's watchable, but borderline. The bulb does have around 1600 hours on it. Granted, this is measured with the LT, and not a light meter, so take it for what it's worth.

I took a look at your dynamic offset, and it is very different from the natural mode offset. I'm still unsure of why there would be a difference. It seems that once the offset was created for red, green, blue and the white point, then it would be universal as long as the same screen and projector was used.

Dan

 

10-26-09 75% Natural High Lamp, i1pro Adjusted.zip 1.5498046875k . file
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post #480 of 731 Old 10-27-2009, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

Here's my calibration file. I didn't spend much time on gamma, but it was accepable enough. Very happy with the greyscale tracking and the color gamut. You'll see that my measured brightness off the screen is only around 5 ftL. It's watchable, but borderline. The bulb does have around 1600 hours on it. Granted, this is measured with the LT, and not a light meter, so take it for what it's worth.

I took a look at your dynamic offset, and it is very different from the natural mode offset. I'm still unsure of why there would be a difference. It seems that once the offset was created for red, green, blue and the white point, then it would be universal as long as the same screen and projector was used.

Dan

I don't really know why it is so different either. I have checked it more than once and it seemed to track pretty well. I'll be curious as to your impressions. All I can figure is that the lense that is removed in the light path for dynamic must change how these meters read.
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