Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB) - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 737 Old 12-05-2013, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

Glad to help. Sorry I don't have any reference calibrations for a 6100.

I would be interested to know how the latest Epson's behave with the current CMS system.

Dan
Dan,
My 6500 died and I bought a 5010, when this was the current model. With 0 hrs on the lamp the calibration was very close right out of the box (I use Dynamic exclusively, as I can't notice the "green" issues in normal content and I like the extra lumens). It is quite a bit brighter than the 6500 (I'm getting over 1000 lumens after calibration @ about 16' from my 120' diag screen).

I was touching up the calibration every 100 hours until 300 hours and there were very little changes needed. I waited until 500 hours and between 300 and 500 something drastically changed. I had to significantly change brightness (black level shot way up to dark gray) and increase contrast (white level was very low). Also had to do a lot more work to get the gamma curve flat, but this was probably due to such a change of the white levels.

One thing that I have noticed is that the light output of this projector is not deteriorating at the rate of my 6500. Don't know if it is this particular bulb or the new bulb that Epson is using (I think it is a 230 watt bulb now, 6500 was a 200 watt bulb), but I have more confidence that over 1000 hours is not easily possible. I had bulbs dying in the 800 hour range on my 6500 (I think I had 3 go).

Hope this helps, as I think the 5020, and 5030 are just refinements of the 5010, so hopefully they will behave similarily.

It was quite an improvement over the 6500. I have since added a Darbee, which I really like, but of course turn off when calibrating.
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post #722 of 737 Old 12-05-2013, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knd View Post

Dan,
My 6500 died and I bought a 5010, when this was the current model. With 0 hrs on the lamp the calibration was very close right out of the box (I use Dynamic exclusively, as I can't notice the "green" issues in normal content and I like the extra lumens). It is quite a bit brighter than the 6500 (I'm getting over 1000 lumens after calibration @ about 16' from my 120' diag screen).

I was touching up the calibration every 100 hours until 300 hours and there were very little changes needed. I waited until 500 hours and between 300 and 500 something drastically changed. I had to significantly change brightness (black level shot way up to dark gray) and increase contrast (white level was very low). Also had to do a lot more work to get the gamma curve flat, but this was probably due to such a change of the white levels.

One thing that I have noticed is that the light output of this projector is not deteriorating at the rate of my 6500. Don't know if it is this particular bulb or the new bulb that Epson is using (I think it is a 230 watt bulb now, 6500 was a 200 watt bulb), but I have more confidence that over 1000 hours is not easily possible. I had bulbs dying in the 800 hour range on my 6500 (I think I had 3 go).

Hope this helps, as I think the 5020, and 5030 are just refinements of the 5010, so hopefully they will behave similarily.

It was quite an improvement over the 6500. I have since added a Darbee, which I really like, but of course turn off when calibrating.

Excellent information KND! Thank you.

How is the color saturation tracking on the 5010? Does it track well? That would be great if Epson fixed their CMS system to work properly when calibrating.

Does it have the same issues as the some of the previous Epson models? (If you turn down the color saturation to reign in the 100% saturation points, the 75%, 50% and 25% points become way undersaturated)

Dan
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post #723 of 737 Old 12-05-2013, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

Excellent information KND! Thank you.

How is the color saturation tracking on the 5010? Does it track well? That would be great if Epson fixed their CMS system to work properly when calibrating.

Does it have the same issues as the some of the previous Epson models? (If you turn down the color saturation to reign in the 100% saturation points, the 75%, 50% and 25% points become way undersaturated)

Dan

Dan

From my experience the same problem exists as with earlier models, but I have to confess, I always use the 75% points so I haven't done the 100% and then checked 25%, 50%, and 75%, but by calibrating 75%, the 25% and 50% are quite close, with the 100% outside the triangle for R, G, and B. I think the secondary colors were much closer to their proper location.
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post #724 of 737 Old 12-05-2013, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Knd. That's what I expected, but there's always hope! smile.gif

At least they are much better out of the box now, and the extra brightness is always a big benefit.

Dan
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post #725 of 737 Old 01-13-2014, 06:36 PM
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Hi Dan,

I've used this guide successfully in the past on several projectors.

I am now trying to calibrate a Sharp LED TV, can I still use this method for this particular display type?

Should I use field or window pattern? And still 75% saturation? Not 100% saturation?

Thanks much!
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post #726 of 737 Old 01-13-2014, 09:06 PM
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So following this guide, I tried it on my Sharp LED.

I am able to adjust RED, BLUE, GREEN, and YELLOW.

However, I can't not get anywhere close for CYAN and MAGENTA.

On CYAN, I get the yellow bar down to 43 (no where close to 24 according to spreadsheet) before the RBG levels reading disappear on HCFR.

For Magenta, I can get the the Green bar down to 41 (match spreadsheet) but I can not use HUE to get the RED and BLUE bars to match. RED is 250 and BLUE is 230. If I adjust any further, the RGB level readings disappear.

I am not sure if this is a fault with my meter (i1D3), HCFR, or the TV.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
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post #727 of 737 Old 01-15-2014, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Re your first post: I use the window patterns at 75% saturation for the first pass calibration on all my displays.

Regarding your issue with the cyan and magenta. Try adjusting your main color and/or tint control. These tend to have a global effect on all colors and may allow you to find a happy middle ground that gets you into the range where you can then use the finer controls for the primary and secondary colors within the adjustment range.

Dan
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post #728 of 737 Old 01-15-2014, 02:34 PM
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Thanks for the reply Dan..

I current have my Color and Tint set at 0. What would you reccomend as a good start for Color/Tint settings given my issue above?
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post #729 of 737 Old 02-19-2014, 05:27 AM
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Hello All,

I'll calibrate my Epson 9100W projector and I have a CineTensioned curtain. I bought X-Rite EODIS3 i1Display Pro model I read also 1st page, but I cannot find calibrator distance from the curtain. Anybody knows this point ?

Regards
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post #730 of 737 Old 02-19-2014, 08:25 AM
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In the attached the author suggests putting the sensor 3"-4" away from the screen. I usually calibrate with my sensor farther away. I place a tripod leg perpendicular against the wall holding the screen and then adust the height and angle to get maximum light readings. So I'm guessing my method is about 12 to 18 inches away.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
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post #731 of 737 Old 05-16-2014, 12:07 AM
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Has anyone calibrated a JVC with this method?
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post #732 of 737 Old 07-25-2014, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post
Re your first post: I use the window patterns at 75% saturation for the first pass calibration on all my displays.
Dan, firstly, thanks for such an excellent guide. However, I am extremely confused at the moment. I am using the latest version of HCFR and I noticed that the saturation targets for 75, 50 and 25% as shown on the CIE chart in HCFR are different from those in your Excel sheet. To me, it appears that the HCFR targets are perhaps incorrect. The reason I say this is that when I use my CMS to align primaries and secondaries to the 100% saturation targets for Rec709, the 75% values that I measure are very close to your targets according to your Excel file. I don't know if I have something incorrect checked in my HCFR settings, but I could really use some help to determine why the two sets of targets don't match.

Thanks a lot!
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post #733 of 737 Old 12-01-2014, 02:52 PM
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Does anyone know how to restore the images to post #1 on this thread?

Vizio M652i-B2....................HCFR 3.1.6
Vizio E600i-B3.....................i1 Display Pro
Sharp LC-70C8470U............ControlCAL Elite X5 Edition v2
Onkyo TX-SR606.................AVSHD-709
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post #734 of 737 Old 12-07-2014, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Basstrix View Post
Does anyone know how to restore the images to post #1 on this thread?
I'm wondering the same. Such an excellent guide, but the photos would go a long way to helping a newbie like myself.
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post #735 of 737 Old 12-16-2014, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basstrix View Post
Does anyone know how to restore the images to post #1 on this thread?
Quote:
Originally Posted by curtlots View Post
I'm wondering the same. Such an excellent guide, but the photos would go a long way to helping a newbie like myself.
Sorry about that guys. I switched ISP's a while back and looks like they finally deleted my old files.

Anyone know a good free site that I can use to load these photos onto and allows them to be hotlinked to threads like this?

Thanks,
Dan
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post #736 of 737 Old 12-16-2014, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post
Sorry about that guys. I switched ISP's a while back and looks like they finally deleted my old files.

Anyone know a good free site that I can use to load these photos onto and allows them to be hotlinked to threads like this?

Thanks,
Dan
Dan,


I use photobucket. I just logged in there and it looks to still be free.


Thanks for the reply,
Brian

Vizio M652i-B2....................HCFR 3.1.6
Vizio E600i-B3.....................i1 Display Pro
Sharp LC-70C8470U............ControlCAL Elite X5 Edition v2
Onkyo TX-SR606.................AVSHD-709
PS-3
Homegrown HTPC
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post #737 of 737 Unread Today, 12:30 PM
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Issues trying to calibrate 8350 with i1 Display Pro and ChromaPure

I knew this wasn't going to be as easy as sitting down for 30 minutes and having a nicely calibrated projector, but I never dreamed it would be this difficult!

I have a 2 1/2 year old Epson 8350 set back roughly 16' from a Seymour AT screen. The bulb has roughly 800 hours on it. I can get my room nearly black. I've been happy with the picture the 8350 puts up, but I'm a natural tinkerer and always wanted to go beyond what I have been able to do using calibration discs like WOW. I've used them all. I even had a professional calibrator calibrate my old TV which was a Toshiba RPTV.

With this in mind, I bought the i1 Display Pro from Amazon, and ChromaPure with the calibration pattern disc from Curtpalme.com. I printed and poured over the Calibration for Dummies guide and the ChromaPure instructions. I used the instructions and spreadsheet from the beginning of this thread. I've used the patterns from the ChromaPure calibration disc, and the patterns using the built in generator in ChromaPure. After a half dozen separate attempts, and many hours per attempt, my results have been nothing short of disastrous. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. On paper, I'm getting really close to the target numbers shown either in the spreadsheet, or with other attempts, with the target numbers in ChromaPure.

When I view an actual program, I'm getting a totally different story than what the numbers are showing. Colors, particularly the red to pink hues, are always overexposed. It was painful to watch the Packers / Bucs game last Sunday. The greens and blues looked ok, but the Bucs uniforms where flaming hot shades of red and pink. The players all looked like they had too much sun & were sun-burnt.

Up to this point, I had given up on setting the gamma, and left it on the factory 2.2 setting. After the painful game experience, I figured I would start from scratch again, and set the gamma properly. I tried using the "grid" sub-menu for setting custom gamma, but the Epson seems to display a static image that makes it really difficult to use the sliders in real time. After several hours of going back and forth, I was able to get the gamma set really close to the figures shown in the calibration aid spreadsheet. I thought this may help solve the color issues I was having. It didn't. Now the image was extremely posterized looking. I then tried the target settings in ChromaPure. Same thing.

At this point, I don't know what to do next. I don't know if I got a defective i1 Display Pro, if that is even likely. Does the meter have to get calibrated? Did I miss a crucial step early on? I'm using the "Standard: setting of the four choices I get with the meter.

Sorry for the long post, but any help would be much appreciated!!
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