Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB) - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 732 Old 04-09-2009, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

You got a steal!

Dan



i know! AND...he never registered it... lol

The jump isnt that huge...i loved the 1080ub.


Once FI is fixed I think a $400 jump in performance.

Just my opinion, based on available funds....lol





For those interested...


I calibrated Natural Mode here are my settings


High Lamp
Normal HDMI range

Brightness -1
Contrast -6
Color Saturation -10
Tint 0
Abs Color 6500K
Skin Tone 0
Sharpness Standard 5


RGB (very projector specific)

Offset R -5
G 0
B 9
Gain R -25
G 0
B 18

R 3 -8 9
G -3 -36 30
B -2 -9 8
C -2 -18 15
M 3 -13 11
Y 2 -17 15
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post #92 of 732 Old 04-10-2009, 05:21 AM
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Dan

Great before and after pics. It goes to show how much "green" shows up pre calibration on the Epsons. I can see why you said to leave the green gains and offsets alone.

"It's time to nut up or shut up."
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post #93 of 732 Old 04-10-2009, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Ethenolas View Post

I finished calibrating Natural and Dynamic....


I like Natural better obviously....but i think i got dynamic close enough to enjoy television and video games with it!

I'm measuring Y = 125.31 in dynamic.


LOL!!!!!


This is a new bulb, and short throw (9ft)


Thanks Dan and smallpool for your awesome work! Extremely helpful!!!


I'll keep 6500ub users updated on FI firmware. Should be released soon.

Great news on the FI firmware. I spoke to Jimmy in level 2 support last week and he also told me that the FI firmware is in it's last stages of testing. I bugged him to email me the update. He said Epson would rather do it themselves (the updating of firmware) but if the customer insists, they will make it available to us. He said to make sure the computer has a serial port and to use a null modem cable.

"It's time to nut up or shut up."
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post #94 of 732 Old 04-10-2009, 05:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jo5507 View Post

Wow..great comparison Dan. While the before pic's aren't horrible, the post calibration are so much better. The thing is, you don't know what you are missing until you see a comparison. You are no doubt pleased with the results. As a long time audiophile it's nice to be able to make these types of comparisons after changes have been made and look at it objectively, rather than having to rely on subjective musical memory, placebo affect, etc!

I'll be doing my first calibration in a week or so and your guide will be invaluable.

Jim

Thank you jo5507. I was hoping that the improvement would show up in the photos. I was pleasantly surprised to see how well the photos captured the difference! I completely agree with you; having objective data keeps you from guessing all the time "Is this right? I think I need to tweak ...xyz". With a calibration like this, you know that it's correct, or not correct. No guessing. It's been very enjoyable for me to figure this all out.

Dan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethenolas View Post



i know! AND...he never registered it... lol

The jump isnt that huge...i loved the 1080ub.


Once FI is fixed I think a $400 jump in performance.

Just my opinion, based on available funds....lol

For those interested...

I calibrated Natural Mode here are my settings

That's great! The stronger bulb must be nice though. Honestly, I doubt I'd use the FI anyway. I like my 24p for movies. I would probably use the 4:4 if it works well though.

You may want to remind others that the gains and offsets are very projector specific, and even specific to high and low lamp mode. Since you are projecting on an off white wall, your settings will differ from a standard white screen. Good to see your calibration though. It can give folks a good starting point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by den110 View Post

Dan

Great before and after pics. It goes to show how much "green" shows up pre calibration on the Epsons. I can see why you said to leave the green gains and offsets alone.

Yes, very blue/green before calibration and the image is flatter to me as well. Also, the greens are more natural after calibration. Look at the bottom left of the 3rd and 4th picture (the waterfall), and the couple laying in the grass. Also the picture with the little girls, the greens are much more natural in the flower stems. I think skintones were helped a lot also, something that sticks out when I look at the pics.

Dan
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post #95 of 732 Old 04-10-2009, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post




That's great! The stronger bulb must be nice though. Honestly, I doubt I'd use the FI anyway. I like my 24p for movies. I would probably use the 4:4 if it works well though.

You may want to remind others that the gains and offsets are very projector specific, and even specific to high and low lamp mode. Since you are projecting on an off white wall, your settings will differ from a standard white screen. Good to see your calibration though. It can give folks a good starting point.


I will not use it with most BDs however....

I have grown extremely fond of watching animation BDs , planet earth BD and playing video games with it on. It is extremely pleasing.

Planet Earth looks really cool
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post #96 of 732 Old 04-10-2009, 07:06 PM
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Dan,

This from the HCFR help file. Any recommendations or changes to settings, in the "Advanced", "Preferences", "Advanced" section of HCFR? Better still, what should be ticked and un-ticked.

Thank you

"Generalities


Saturation-shifts graph
Saturation-difference histogram measures two distinct things. Curves on higher part of the graph show the difference between the measured saturation level and the expected level. The goal is to reach a 0% difference for all curves. Negative values mean a lake of saturation and positive values mean an excess of saturation.

Curves on the lower part of the graph show a delta E between the measured color and the expected color, without taking into account the saturation level. As an example, a measured green with 60% of saturation instead of 50% will have a delta E of 0, contrary to the saturation curves, which will show +10% saturation error. However, whether the saturation is correct or not, if this green is not pure with blue or red component, the corresponding delta E curve would show the error.





Note: This delta E is not a "true" delta E, because it is not computed using a fixed reference point, but using a projected point on a line coming from white to a primary or secondary color. It means delta E values used to draw these curves are different than those displayed in measures grid. Moreover, this delta E value never takes luminance into account, regardless "Do not use luminance in delta E formula" option in advanced preferences.


Important notice: The delta E difference depends on the chosen full saturated color reference. Actually, if measurements for the primary and secondary colors are available, they would be used as references if the "Use measured colors (when available)" option is checked in general preferences. If they are not, the chosen references would be the ones selected in the reference preferences. That explains these curves may change when erasing or measuring again the primary colors, or due to the lake of these measurements the references used by HCFR Colorimeter are modified (this affect especially curves linked to green and magenta). Therefore, if measured colors are taken as reference, Delta E measurements are relevant only when those colors are measured within the same conditions."
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post #97 of 732 Old 04-10-2009, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallpooldad View Post

Dan,

This from the HCFR help file. Any recommendations or changes to settings, in the "Advanced", "Preferences", "Advanced" section of HCFR? Better still, what should be ticked and un-ticked.

Thank you

"Generalities


Saturation-shifts graph
Saturation-difference histogram measures two distinct things. Curves on higher part of the graph show the difference between the measured saturation level and the expected level. The goal is to reach a 0% difference for all curves. Negative values mean a lake of saturation and positive values mean an excess of saturation.

Curves on the lower part of the graph show a delta E between the measured color and the expected color, without taking into account the saturation level. As an example, a measured green with 60% of saturation instead of 50% will have a delta E of 0, contrary to the saturation curves, which will show +10% saturation error. However, whether the saturation is correct or not, if this green is not pure with blue or red component, the corresponding delta E curve would show the error.





Note: This delta E is not a "true" delta E, because it is not computed using a fixed reference point, but using a projected point on a line coming from white to a primary or secondary color. It means delta E values used to draw these curves are different than those displayed in measures grid. Moreover, this delta E value never takes luminance into account, regardless "Do not use luminance in delta E formula" option in advanced preferences.


Important notice: The delta E difference depends on the chosen full saturated color reference. Actually, if measurements for the primary and secondary colors are available, they would be used as references if the "Use measured colors (when available)" option is checked in general preferences. If they are not, the chosen references would be the ones selected in the reference preferences. That explains these curves may change when erasing or measuring again the primary colors, or due to the lake of these measurements the references used by HCFR Colorimeter are modified (this affect especially curves linked to green and magenta). Therefore, if measured colors are taken as reference, Delta E measurements are relevant only when those colors are measured within the same conditions."

Good call smallpooldad.

What you mention is EXACTLY why I generated my spreadsheet. My DeltaE graph does include luminance, not just hue. It is a true DeltaE (dE).

Also, the saturation-luminance graph in HCFR is just plain wrong (no matter what box you check). The one in my spreadsheet is correct. HCFR assumes that your 100% luminance, 100% saturation measurement to be correct for luminance, even if it's not! My graph shows the true luminance versus the target value.


Dan
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post #98 of 732 Old 04-11-2009, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

I use a Da-lite High Contrast Matte White screen. (HCMW) I tested a lot of the Da-lite screen materials, and this was the best balance of whites and blacks. It's a slightly grey screen, not bright white. I think the gain is supposed to be around 1.1. You can get a pull-down version for a great price. I think my 106" screen was around $200 delivered.



Yeah, I remember, and I'm glad to help.



Sounds good. That got me thinking. I wonder if for each 75% saturation location, there is a specific %of Red, Green and Blue. I think that assumption is correct. That would make things very simple. You could just adjust saturation until the primary read the correct %. For example, if you have the red 75% saturation pattern up, in the Epson RGBCMY menu, you would just move the red saturation until the red % read 378% (see below), then you would adjust Hue unil the Green and Red bar both read 24%. This would be much easier than trying to remember which way to move around in the x,y color space.

I typed the 75% locations into HCFR and this is what it gave me for the percentages.

Code:
                     Red Bar Green Bar Blue Bar
Red Primary            378%     24%     24%
Green Primary          15%      133%    15%
Blue Primary           64%      64%     555%
Yellow Secondary      106%     106%     17%
Cyan Secondary         24%      120%    120%
Magenta Secondary      247%     41%     247%

Can anyone verify that this would work? I can't see why not. Of coarse brightness for the colors still need to be set also, but this may be a very simple way to hit your target locations for saturation and Hue.
Dan


This method looks so easy now..


Have a question:

I know for red, that you adjust the sat. until you get the high %, then hue to balance out the green/blue.

but..

For the Magenta Example: since the red/blue bars are the same %, am I correct to think that green would use the Saturation control, while red/blue use the hue?

If this is true, then, same goes for any colours that share same %, you would use hue? and remaining bar uses the Saturation??


Thanks,,
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post #99 of 732 Old 04-11-2009, 11:42 AM - Thread Starter
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For magenta, when you increase saturation, both blue and red % will increase as green % decreases. Then you use Hue to balance the blue and red bar to be equal. The method is the same for yellow and cyan (the other two secondary colors)

Dan
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post #100 of 732 Old 04-11-2009, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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My spreadsheet has been updated to unclude the % bars in HCFR for the 100% saturation locations. This is mainly for those of you who are not using Epsons, or just prefer to calibrate to the standard 100% color saturation locations.

The screenshot of my spreadsheet has also been updated in my guide to reflect the different look.

Dan
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post #101 of 732 Old 04-11-2009, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

My spreadsheet has been updated to unclude the % bars in HCFR for the 100% saturation locations. This is mainly for those of you who are not using Epsons, or just prefer to calibrate to the standard 100% color saturation locations.

The screenshot of my spreadsheet has also been updated in my guide to reflect the different look.

Dan


Sweet... Your awesome!!!
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post #102 of 732 Old 04-13-2009, 03:10 PM
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Dan,

A few question, when I adjust grayscale using the gray window patterns on AVSHD, using the 90% and 40% or 80% and 30% gray windows, one or other never reaches 100%, only 99%, leaving green alone. Is this a problem or should I get both red and blue to 100% and then tweak green, or is green 100%, and either blue or red 99% good enough? In other words do not worry about it.

I have one heck of a time with custom Gamma; it just seems to not want to behave. This is especially true, in Dynamic - high brightness mode, less so in Natural and Theater Black 1, any ideas?

This might be an Epson 6100 issue, as it uses an organic panel, being primarily designed for the average consumer user, not I think for someone was was going to calibrate it to the "Nth" degree. The 1080UB or 6500UB might be better in this respect; what is your personal experience? Others who read this post are welcome to add comments.

Spoke with Epson Support, nobody including their supposedly "Senior Support" person here in the US could tell me what the far left and far right "Custom Gamma" controls were for, any ideas? Frankly they did not seem too knowledgeable.

Thank you and hope you had a good Easter.
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post #103 of 732 Old 04-13-2009, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallpooldad View Post

Dan,

Quick question, when I adjust grayscale using the gray window patterns on AVSHD, using the 90% and 40% or 80% and 30% gray windows, one or other never reaches 100%,only 99%, leaving green alone. Is this a problem or should I get both red and blue to 100% and then tweak green? Or is green 100%, and either blue or red 99% good enough?

I have on heck of a time with custom Gamma, it just seems to not want to behave. This is especially true, in Dynamic - high brightness mode, less so in Natural and Theater Black 1, any ideas?

Thank you.

I never get all three at 100%....I think you should get it as close as you can...but maybe dan is even more the man that we think...
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post #104 of 732 Old 04-13-2009, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't know if I've ever had 100% for all three colors, but I can get a mix of 99% or 100% for most of the greyscale range, which keeps me happy. Sometimes the 100% white window is a little troublesome (but can normally be between 97% and 103% for all three colors), and the darker windows like 20% and 10% can also be tricky. I normally don't bother at all with 10%, and let it fall where it may.

My latest HCFr file is at the end of my second post (just after the screen photos) for this thread is you want to take a look at my results. That's pretty much the best I can do.

Dan
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post #105 of 732 Old 04-13-2009, 07:24 PM
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Dan,

Thank you for the quick reply. Believe it or not when the PJ was set further back (less bright in "High Brightness" mode) I was able to always get 100% on all three colors and great Gamma. I cannot change the new near in distance. It seems then that maybe the old longer distance placement is more forgiving of Gamma.

Your calibration looks great if only I could get my Gamma as good as yours. My greyscale is normally good but my Gamma is always a little funky. My "Saturations, etc.", look good on your spreadsheet.

I think the reason for this are one of two things; either I am too close to the screen, when it was further back I did not have these issues, or maybe I am not setting my "Brightness Control" correctly. I will work on "Brightness Control" again as I was using the .65% method for brightness, but I now know from "thomasl" here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post16260472

And here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post16260604

That is not always the best way, in some cases - mine most probably, to optimize Gamma (although it helps Grayscale), your and his "Black Bar" method, or using 1% and 2% (Near Black on AVSHD) method, is often better for setting the "Brightness Control".

Although setting the initial settings for "Color Saturation" and "Tint" controls using the % method 100 IRE Gray window using a Red 100% window(at 21.26% of the 100 IRE Gray window), and Cyan (78.74%), seems to work better than the "Blue Filter" method, but that may have to do with my brightness being off, I will have to see.

Thank you.

So back to the calibration when I can.
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post #106 of 732 Old 04-14-2009, 02:28 AM
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Did a few more cal over the Easter holiday. Natural with high and low brightness setting.

I had to redo my Gamma adjustment as something was just plain wrong there. Looking at at greyscale picture I had a light area within the black section (so not a uniform black to white). Got some weird artifacts in peoples faces when watching movies. Maybe I got there since I started adjusting my gamma from my previous settings.
Did it again from scratch (reset gamma values) and now it is much better. Managed to get it to 2.20 average. However, red is going down (>2.22) and blue is going up (<2.22). Green is good.
This could be due to RGB Gain settings where I have a fairly large positive red and negative blue in order to get 98-101% for all three colors.
Need to look at those in more detail.
Picture is great though...

One thing, when adjusting gamma the guide mentioned that one should start at 90% IRE and work downwards to 10%. I felt that when adjusting 20-50% IRE I had to go keep going back to 70-90% IRE and readjust.
I'm not saying one should start at the 10% and move to 90%, but maybe the guide should consider this could happen.

Anyway, thanks for the work you two put into this.
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post #107 of 732 Old 04-14-2009, 11:06 AM
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Has anyone posted settings for a grey screen? I have DIY black widow grey screen, I tend to make more use of the Dynamic setting on this projector than I have on any other including the 1080Ub.
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post #108 of 732 Old 04-14-2009, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moooog View Post

Has anyone posted settings for a grey screen? I have DIY black widow grey screen, I tend to make more use of the Dynamic setting on this projector than I have on any other including the 1080Ub.

How do you like black widow? I was thinking of doing that when i move.
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post #109 of 732 Old 04-14-2009, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moooog View Post

Has anyone posted settings for a grey screen? I have DIY black widow grey screen, I tend to make more use of the Dynamic setting on this projector than I have on any other including the 1080Ub.

I have a grey screen. (Da-lite HCMW) Do you have the 1080UB, or the 6500UB? If you have the 1080UB, I can post my calibration settings for dynamic.

Dan
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post #110 of 732 Old 04-14-2009, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallpooldad View Post

Dan,
I think the reason for this are one of two things; either I am too close to the screen, when it was further back I did not have these issues, or maybe I am not setting my "Brightness Control" correctly. I will work on "Brightness Control" again as I was using the .65% method for brightness, but I now know from "thomasl" here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post16260472

And here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post16260604

That is not always the best way, in some cases - mine most probably, to optimize Gamma (although it helps Grayscale), your and his "Black Bar" method, or using 1% and 2% (Near Black on AVSHD) method, is often better for setting the "Brightness Control".
.

One way I also set brightness is to put up a black window, like the 0% grey window or 0% grey field on the AVSHD disc. Turn your brightness to where you think it should be set. Then, watching the screen very closely push the blank button on the Epson remote. (this eliminates any incoming signal, and the Epson projector will always project it's blackest possible image) If the screen gets darker when you push the blank button, then you need to bump your brightness down one notch and try it again. (remember to hit blank again to bring back the picture). Keep doing this until you hit blank and the picture doesn't get darker. Don't go too far though, just to the point that the blank button doesn't make the screen go darker.

Dan
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post #111 of 732 Old 04-14-2009, 08:31 PM
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Dan,

That is new one and a great tip, will give it a try when I next calibrate.

Thank you.
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post #112 of 732 Old 04-16-2009, 02:46 AM
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Yesterday I turned on Iris (after doing a 75% cal and gamma adjustment a few days ago). The iris feels less noisy. It seems that with a fairly correct gamma it doesn't need to work as much. It is a good thing though...

Haven't checked how the results (greyscale, gamma etc) are with Iris on.
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post #113 of 732 Old 04-17-2009, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meenenator View Post

Yesterday I turned on Iris (after doing a 75% cal and gamma adjustment a few days ago). The iris feels less noisy. It seems that with a fairly correct gamma it doesn't need to work as much. It is a good thing though...

Haven't checked how the results (greyscale, gamma etc) are with Iris on.

Interesting about the iris. Not sure why it would perform differently. If you were watching something without many changes in light output the iris wouldn't be working as much. Could that be it?

It's impossible to check gamma with the iris on. You can check greyscale, but even that is tricky. It's best to just do these measurments without the iris.

For instance, if you throw up a 10% stimulus grey window, the iris will clamp down and the lumens will drop, making your 10% window more like a 5%(just a guess) window for instance. This is why gamma can't be measured correctly with the iris on. The iris stays open for the brighter windows, but then clamps down with the darker windows, which totally throws off the gamma curve. In a given scene, if the iris clamps down, the gamma should be the same as if it didn't clamp down. We have no effective way to measure this though.

You need to check gamma without the iris. Theoretically if the iris is implimented properly gamma should not change with the iris on or off. It will mearly change the maximum light output in a scene, and by the same token lower the black level. The gamma in between, in a given scene should remain the same.

It is very hard to explain what I'm trying to say, but I hope that helped.

Dan
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post #114 of 732 Old 04-17-2009, 10:41 AM
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I need some clarification.

On these Epsons (I own the 6100), Setting the HDMI output to Expanded passes BTB and WTW, correct? Setting it to Normal does not.

Normally, the naming conventions are the opposite. Normal usually refers to Studio levels, and Expanded refers to PC Levels, but in these Epson PJ's the names are reversed.

I need confirmation on this because I'm having a debate in a thread in the Dual Player forum:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1137751

I'n trying to convince Foxbat121 that in order to pass BTB info, I have to set the Epson to Expanded, and he continues to debate me.


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post #115 of 732 Old 04-17-2009, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Kilgore,

Yes, HDMI needs to be set to expanded on the Epsons to display BTB and WTW.

Dan
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post #116 of 732 Old 04-17-2009, 11:02 AM
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Thanks Dan.

Think you could go to the thread I linked above and tell Foxbat121 that? The OP there is confused about the proper setting, and Foxbat is only adding to the confusion.

It would be greatly appreciated.


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post #117 of 732 Old 04-17-2009, 03:20 PM
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Dan,

What if any advantage is there in going for BTB and WTW? From this article here it seems not a lot, other than when one uses a PC or PS3.

http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/ca...vels-xvycc-rgb

Is there any advantage of calibrating in this mode and then going back to "normal" for the final standard viewing setup? I have to admit I am very confused after reading through the Audioholic article on this subject which is listed above.

Dan, if you look at the specs of the Samsung BDP-2550 Blu-ray player can you tell whether or not it will do this? If the specs cannot tell you how would I know by running a test with the AVSHD disk?

Thank you
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post #118 of 732 Old 04-17-2009, 04:50 PM
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Well, I was a little bit confused about the Expanded vs Normal setting but after reading the thread in Kilgore's post, I'm thoroughly confused.

Dan, did you turn Expanded on to view the pattern and set your black/white levels, and then turn it back to Normal, or leave it in Expanded. Obviously you got great results with whatever approach you used.

Jim
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post #119 of 732 Old 04-17-2009, 05:00 PM
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Dan,

Please take a look at these calibrations and see what you think; also downloaded the Excel entries for you to make it easier to read and give more accurate graphs.

The meter was, except for the "BestBrightNatural5500kGamma20Non-CustomColor" calibration, 2 ft away from the screen this 2ft distance was giving me funky Gamma readings. I then moved it in to 9" and Gamma readings improved. Not sure why, maybe the type of screen, a 110" Wilsonart Designer White laminate (Gain 1.24) with a throw of 11'9"; will re-calibrate these again at 9".

The Gamma if taken again, at 9” for the others, might be better than reported here.

The Green is off in "BestDynamicGamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart" as it was re-calibrated, only green, a few days later most probably at a different Y reading as the tripod was set slightly differently, but in reality it looks fine on the screen, just off on the graph.

The Files:

- BestDynamic is for the wife, with some ambient light, so she can do her nails, snack etc.

- Best BestNaturalNon-Bright was to see what low lamp mode locked like. It looks pretty good just a fraction dim.

- BestTB1Non-Bright was to see how well the colors really balanced in TB1 at low brightness, see what you think.

- BestBrightNatural was to see if a good Natural was obtainable but a little brighter.

So far BestBrightNatural is the best looking and can be slightly more punchy with auto iris on but of course it makes black areas a little too black. Dynamic is good but too bright to watch in a dark room, it tires the eyes, strangely though one does not notice the color pulls, the colors look fine visually. Theater Black 1 in low brightness cannot compare to the others.

As you will note in BestBrightNatural I did not lower 10% gray Gamma to 2.15, as the Gamma pre-set was 2.0, to get a 2.22 through most of the range. From experience it is really hard to play with custom Gamma when it is at a 2.0 Gamma pre-set, will try later. Might try playing around with the contrast, brightness, and color saturation to see if it will up the gamma pre-set in this setting, therby making it easier to adjust the "Custom Gamma".

FtL

Here are ftL with Eye-One LT and actual ftL with Lux Meter adjusted for screen gain:

Dynamic:
ftL 20.43 Lux Meter: 22.27

Natural (Brightness Control High):
ftL 10.897 Lux Meter = 11.88

Natural (Brightness Control Low):
ftL 7.71 Lux Meter = 8.40

Theater Black 1 (Brightness Control Low):
ftL 12.265 Lux Meter = 13.36885

Interestingly there is virtually no perceptual brightness between Theater Black 1 (Brightness Control Low) and Natural (Brightness Control Low), but Natural (Brightness Control High) appears significantly brighter (20-25%) than both even though the ftL of Theater Black 1 is greater, weird. Dynamic is brighter than Natural (Brightness Control High) by about 10-15% visually

Did not enter the settings into the note section of HCFR for "Dynamic", if you would like them let me know.

I did not "tighten up the "Hues, etc" after the first run, except the green as mentioned.

Thank you

 

Best Dynamic2.3 Gamma6500kColor.zip 4.7587890625k . file

 

BestBrightNatural5500kGamma20Non-CustomColor.zip 4.810546875k . file

 

BestBrightNaturalGamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart.zip 387.24609375k . file

 

BestDynamicGamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart.zip 387.7822265625k . file

 

BestNaturalNon-Bright5500kGamma22CustomColor.zip 4.89453125k . file
Attached Files
File Type: zip BestNaturalNon-Bright5500kGamma22CustomColor.zip (4.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: zip BestDynamicGamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart.zip (387.8 KB, 6 views)
File Type: zip BestBrightNaturalGamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart.zip (387.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: zip BestBrightNatural5500kGamma20Non-CustomColor.zip (4.8 KB, 7 views)
File Type: zip Best Dynamic2.3 Gamma6500kColor.zip (4.8 KB, 12 views)
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post #120 of 732 Old 04-17-2009, 05:02 PM
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