Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB) - Page 7 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #181 of 732 Old 05-18-2009, 09:25 PM
 
SteveMo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: The Shop
Posts: 3,564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post

Both of the progams don't have installation folders. They are both exe files that automatically run when I open them. Can someone please help me fix this easy problem that I am too stupid to fix myself.

I think you may want to try and right click on the exe file and select to add it to the registry.
SteveMo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #182 of 732 Old 05-18-2009, 09:50 PM
AVS Special Member
 
beekermartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I don't understand what you mean.

I consider myself to be above average in terms of computer knowledge but this is really confusing me.
beekermartin is offline  
post #183 of 732 Old 05-18-2009, 10:00 PM
 
SteveMo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: The Shop
Posts: 3,564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post

I don't understand what you mean.

I consider myself to be above average in terms of computer knowledge but this is really confusing me.

Instead of installing the exe to the list of programs in the registry I think you can also manually copy the dll file from the program directory so it is in the same folder with the exe file. A seach should also work to locate the dll file if it is installed.
SteveMo is offline  
post #184 of 732 Old 05-18-2009, 10:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
beekermartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
When I right click on either program I get the usual options: Properties, cut, copy, create shortcut, etc. I also get Open, run as, add to archive, add to ...rar, compress and email, compress to ...rar and email, and pin to start menu.

What am I missing?
beekermartin is offline  
post #185 of 732 Old 05-18-2009, 10:21 PM
 
SteveMo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: The Shop
Posts: 3,564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post

When I right click on either program I get the usual options: Properties, cut, copy, create shortcut, etc. I also get Open, run as, add to archive, add to ...rar, compress and email, compress to ...rar and email, and pin to start menu.

What am I missing?

Are you running the operating system using the administrator account? The file may be on your installation disk that came with the i1? If it is, I would just copy it to the same folder.
SteveMo is offline  
post #186 of 732 Old 05-18-2009, 10:28 PM
AVS Special Member
 
beekermartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I dowloaded the newest software for the Eye one. I didn't use the install disc. I have it but I don't know what exact file needs to be added to the Color HCFR folder nor how to do it.

I am going to bed for the night. I am too tired to deal with this kind of frustrating crap.

Thank you for your help.
beekermartin is offline  
post #187 of 732 Old 05-19-2009, 05:17 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
stereomandan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 20
No offense guys, but lets stay on topic of the thread. There is a HCFR thread in the Display Calibration forum.

What you need to do is find the EyeOne.dll file from the disc that came with the eye one meter. Then copy and paste that file into the ColorCHFR folder. (This is the folder that has the ColorHCFR.exe file in it also). If you need the file, I can email it to you. ust send me a PM with your email address.

Dan
stereomandan is offline  
post #188 of 732 Old 05-19-2009, 11:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
beekermartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I apologize for posting here about this. I thought this was the proper thread for it because you use the Eye One sensor and the Color HCFR software to calibrate.

Anyway, I appreciate your help Dan. I didn't know the exact file that needed to be added. It works now.

Thanks again. Hopefully my next post will be my calibration result!
beekermartin is offline  
post #189 of 732 Old 05-19-2009, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
stereomandan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 20
No problems. Glad you got it working.

Dan
stereomandan is offline  
post #190 of 732 Old 05-19-2009, 11:28 PM
AVS Special Member
 
beekermartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Ok. This is my first night trying to calibrate my 1080 so please bear with me. This is my first attempt at calibrating using a meter and software. I only used test pattern dvds in the past.

1. When adjusting gray scale do I use RGB or RGBYCM? I used RGB and simply adjusted the red/blue bias/gain until they matched green. Do I use only RGB for the rest of the calibration as well?

2. I started to adjust gamma. My concern is that once I get one measurement correct when I adjust the next one it thows off the one I did prior. I adjusted each point from 10% to 90% using the excel spread sheet calculations. After I was done the only point that was correct was the last one I adjusted. Do I have to keep going back and forth between each % level and adjust each gamma level until I find the happy medium for each level? In other words is it possible to get the exact numbers the spread sheet calculates for each point? After I adjusted them a few times the points were much better than before I started but not perfect.

I haven't attempted saturation yet. I want to make sure I have the gray scale and gamma correct first. I will say that I already can't believe the difference in picture quality over my previous dvd test disc calibration. I switched back and forth between what I did tonight and my previous stored settings and there is no comparison. The colors are so much better now I can't believe it. What I use to think looked good now looks absolutely horrible in comparison. I am very excited to see how good it is going to look when I am done.


Edit: I do understand that I need to use RGBYCM for adjusting the colors after I get the gray scale and gamma correct. I just want to make sure that I use RGB only when adjusting the gray scale.
beekermartin is offline  
post #191 of 732 Old 05-20-2009, 04:53 AM
Knd
Senior Member
 
Knd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I just received the Eye One on Monday and made my first attempt at calibration last night. I spent about 2 hours and generally everything went OK, except for Gamma. I'm not sure I know what I'm doing there. I could never get the Y values down to the targets in the spreadsheet.

I put up the 90% gray scale window and then moved the sliders (not touching the 1st or last) down, but could never get it low enough. This was the procedure for each one, but when I got to 30% or 40%, the Y would never get below 6 cd/m2. Maybe this is because of overall brightness (I think I read this in smallpooldad's guide).

It also looks like I need to adjust the Hue on Green and Magenta some.

Would someone please look at the attached and offer up some suggestions?

 

1st_try.zip 4.400390625k . file
Attached Files
File Type: zip 1st_try.zip (4.4 KB, 2 views)
Knd is offline  
post #192 of 732 Old 05-21-2009, 04:56 AM
Knd
Senior Member
 
Knd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Last night I spent another couple of hours calibrating and think I got it pretty close. I still can't do anything with gamma, but the picture looks really good to me. I used custom gamma but left all of the sliders at zero.

I ran the saturation points (all 30) and loaded the data into the spreadsheet which I have attached.

My PJ is the Epson 6500 UB, low lamp and all of the initial settings that Dan suggests in his guide (post #1). We have a Carada BW 118" screen with a throw distance of about 14 1/2 feet (shelf mounted with some horizontal offset also).

I know its not perfect, but the picture looks very good. If you folks think this looks acceptable, I'll write down the settings and post them in the tweak section.

 

Calibration.zip 382.888671875k . file
Attached Files
File Type: zip Calibration.zip (382.9 KB, 13 views)
Knd is offline  
post #193 of 732 Old 05-21-2009, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
stereomandan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Looks very good, but you really need to work on the gamma because it will impact the color saturation locations on the color gamut charts.

Gamma:
Put the gamma sliders in the positions listed below, from left to right:
0, -6, -10, -11, -12, -13, -11, -15, 0 and then remeasure the grayscale windows to see the impact on gamma. With the gamma you are reading, the picture should look quite flat even though the colors are fairly accurate. You may want to try my slider positions first to see how close you get to 2.22 gamma.

Your grayscale tracking is excellent for neutral gray.

Dan
stereomandan is offline  
post #194 of 732 Old 05-21-2009, 12:02 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
stereomandan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post

Ok. This is my first night trying to calibrate my 1080 so please bear with me. This is my first attempt at calibrating using a meter and software. I only used test pattern dvds in the past.

1. When adjusting gray scale do I use RGB or RGBYCM? I used RGB and simply adjusted the red/blue bias/gain until they matched green. Do I use only RGB for the rest of the calibration as well?

2. I started to adjust gamma. My concern is that once I get one measurement correct when I adjust the next one it thows off the one I did prior. I adjusted each point from 10% to 90% using the excel spread sheet calculations. After I was done the only point that was correct was the last one I adjusted. Do I have to keep going back and forth between each % level and adjust each gamma level until I find the happy medium for each level? In other words is it possible to get the exact numbers the spread sheet calculates for each point? After I adjusted them a few times the points were much better than before I started but not perfect.

I haven't attempted saturation yet. I want to make sure I have the gray scale and gamma correct first. I will say that I already can't believe the difference in picture quality over my previous dvd test disc calibration. I switched back and forth between what I did tonight and my previous stored settings and there is no comparison. The colors are so much better now I can't believe it. What I use to think looked good now looks absolutely horrible in comparison. I am very excited to see how good it is going to look when I am done.


Edit: I do understand that I need to use RGBYCM for adjusting the colors after I get the gray scale and gamma correct. I just want to make sure that I use RGB only when adjusting the gray scale.

Yes, RBG is only used for greyscale, and it sounds like you are doing it right. Put up a 90% grey window and match red and blue to green using the gains. Then go to a 30% grey window and adjust the red and blue to match green with the offsets.

Gamma: Yes, it's somewhat of a back and forth process, but eventually you should be able to hit the targets fairly close. Just remember, if you need to increase gamma on a 80% grey window for example from 2.1 to 2.22, you need to make the picture darker, so you will be moving the slider down. To go from 2.3 to 2.22 gamma, you will do the opposite and move the slider up.

Dan
stereomandan is offline  
post #195 of 732 Old 05-21-2009, 12:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
beekermartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Thanks Dan.

I am hoping to spend a few hours on it tonight. I got grayscale just about perfect. I adjusted each gamma slider and got it fairly close to the spread sheet numbers but not perfect. I am going to try the settings you listed above and adjust from there. Once I get the gamma fairly close I will work on saturation.
beekermartin is offline  
post #196 of 732 Old 05-22-2009, 04:57 AM
Knd
Senior Member
 
Knd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Thanks Dan. I really appreciate your guide and the time you put in to helping people. I'll set the sliders tonight and rerun gray scale as you suggested.
Knd is offline  
post #197 of 732 Old 05-24-2009, 12:09 AM
Member
 
opus007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Well I went and bought a eye-one LT to replace the spyder2 as I could not get things right with the spyder2.I calibrated the grayscale after doing contrast and brightness.I had a almost spot on luminance on the graph.My gamma was off but not by a lot.My rgb levels where spot on the graph after doing the gray scale.I had the color saturation at -10 and tint at -4.So I was pretty proud of my self so decided to watch some tv on my pj.I have now come to the conclusion I do not know what the hell I am doing.It looked absolutely terrible.All the skin tones had a very,very bad red push.Not only in faces but also in white.I re calibrated a number of times and each time rgb levels where spot on.And everything looked good in the graphs.But not on blu ray,dvd or tv.It came to the frustrating point to where I defaulted the pj and with it defaulted everything looks really good. I just do not understand it.
So either my bulb needs more hours on it(currently at 72) or the sensor is bad or as stated above I just have no idea what I am doing.Also I can not get a ftl of over 9.72 no matter what position I put the eye one at.Any Ideas Dan?I am so frustrated.I have to just let this go for a few days as spent the last 2 days trying to do this.Thanks.
opus007 is offline  
post #198 of 732 Old 05-24-2009, 06:22 AM
Knd
Senior Member
 
Knd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I loaded your settings and the 90% falls off a cliff (1.72). I ran 20 + gray scales yesterday to try and get this up, but couldn't. I'm wondering if my initial contrast (+3) could be causing this. In Curt's guide one of my charts shows that I'm running out of red and blue at the 100%.

 

2nd_try custom.zip 3.9912109375k . file
Attached Files
File Type: zip 2nd_try custom.zip (4.0 KB, 4 views)
Knd is offline  
post #199 of 732 Old 05-24-2009, 06:50 AM
Knd
Senior Member
 
Knd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Dan,
I had another thought on my problem - I've uploaded the newest firmware, 1.09, but have run the macro. I can't do this until Tuesday PM, so maybe my CMS needs updating (I don't know what this macro does but guess it is related to the Frame Interpolation).

Opus,
I'm not sure I'm the one to be giving out instructions. You might want to attach the .chc file and Dan's spreadsheet.
Knd is offline  
post #200 of 732 Old 05-24-2009, 09:35 AM
Member
 
opus007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
ok here is my best results .

 

Colornaturali1002bestso far.zip 4.0625k . file
Attached Files
File Type: zip Colornaturali1002bestso far.zip (4.1 KB, 4 views)
opus007 is offline  
post #201 of 732 Old 05-24-2009, 01:12 PM
Knd
Senior Member
 
Knd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Opus,
Your gray scale looks much better than any I have been able to produce so it looks (at least to me) like you know what you are doing.

I would suggest that once you have done the 75% saturations, you go to Measures, Saturations, All Colors. This will then walk you through the 30 slides from 0% Red Saturation (through 100% Red), 5 for Green (0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%), 5 for Blue, 5 for Yellow, 5 for Cyan and finally 5 for Magenta. They will be recorded in the .chc file. You should then copy and paste the data from these 30 readings (one color at a time) into the 2nd tab of Dan's spreadsheet. Don't forget to put in your actual 100% grayscale Y value at the top. You can then look at the CIE diagram and see how the 30 pioints line up with the calculated points. My guess is this is where your problem might be as you said the picture was horrible, and from my limited experience even though I had crappy gamma, my gray scale and the 75% calibration were pretty good, and my picture looked terrific. I guess you still need to work on your gamma.See my next post as I think I have gotten my gamma under control and I have attached Dan's spreadsheet with my values.
Knd is offline  
post #202 of 732 Old 05-24-2009, 01:18 PM
Knd
Senior Member
 
Knd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Dan,
I think that I'm starting to head in the right direction with my gamma. I have the 6500 and reset my brightness and contrast. I change my brightness to 1 (from 0) but moved my contrast from 3 to -5. I can now see bars 240 blinking on the AVS disc, but my gamma curve is starting to look good. Also, we just watched Handcock and it looked fantastic, went to the Hockey game and the colors were really good, with the ice looking particularly white. I redid gray scale (so so results) and did the 75% primaries

Please see the attached and see if I'm heading in the right direction.

 

Calibration.zip 382.888671875k . file
Knd is offline  
post #203 of 732 Old 05-24-2009, 06:54 PM
Member
 
opus007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knd View Post

Opus,
Your gray scale looks much better than any I have been able to produce so it looks (at least to me) like you know what you are doing.

I would suggest that once you have done the 75% saturations, you go to Measures, Saturations, All Colors. This will then walk you through the 30 slides from 0% Red Saturation (through 100% Red), 5 for Green (0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%), 5 for Blue, 5 for Yellow, 5 for Cyan and finally 5 for Magenta. They will be recorded in the .chc file. You should then copy and paste the data from these 30 readings (one color at a time) into the 2nd tab of Dan's spreadsheet. Don't forget to put in your actual 100% grayscale Y value at the top. You can then look at the CIE diagram and see how the 30 pioints line up with the calculated points. My guess is this is where your problem might be as you said the picture was horrible, and from my limited experience even though I had crappy gamma, my gray scale and the 75% calibration were pretty good, and my picture looked terrific. I guess you still need to work on your gamma.See my next post as I think I have gotten my gamma under control and I have attached Dan's spreadsheet with my values.

Well I tried the 75 % saturation's and got no where.I was backing cyan back to -115 and all the others in -80 to 90's.But I am not sure I am on the right track here.When adjusting for R,B,G,C,M,Y i am not sure I am doing it correctly.Which one's control the y and x.Does x control saturation and y control hue or the other way around.
I have the rgb all setup and as I redid the gray scale and everything and pretty much got the same results.I did get the red push to go away but had to back the color saturation down to -27 and tint to 2.It washed the colors out a little but it is a trade off for the red faces.
opus007 is offline  
post #204 of 732 Old 05-25-2009, 05:07 AM
Knd
Senior Member
 
Knd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Dan's spreadsheet is the key to the 75% method. Below are copies of 2 of the tables from the spreedsheet I attached a couple of posts ago.

75% Saturation Locations
x y Target Y (cd/m2)
Red 0.5582 0.3298 7.20
Green 0.3032 0.5323 24.24
Blue 0.1907 0.1273 2.46
Yellow 0.3927 0.4612 31.40
Cyan 0.2466 0.3288 26.66
Magenta 0.3189 0.1979 9.59
White 0.3127 0.3290 34.10


Red Bar Green Bar Blue Bar
Red 378% 24% 24%
Green 15% 133% 15%
Blue 64% 64% 555%
Yellow 106% 106% 17%
Cyan 24% 120% 120%
Magenta 247% 41% 247%


As an example Red, all I did was pull up the 75% red saturation window (saturation windows are the lower right (magenta colored) menu selection). I then wrote down 7.20, 378%, and 24%. I then opened the RGBYCM and adjusted the Brightness to get close to 7.20, then the Saturation to get it close to the 378% and hue to get blue and green close to 24%. I then adjusted Brightness to get closer to 7.20 because Saturation seems to affect Brightness (and vice versa), then Saturation to get the red graph registering close to 378% and finally Hue to get Blue and Green close to the 24%. I never even look at x or y. In my limited experience you can get these to within a percent or two. The only difficult one I had was Yellow, and I couldn't get quite as close to this one as the others. I had plenty of room left on the contols although you can have +20 or -20 on some of the colors.

I didn't go back to any color and just ran a gray scale and then the 30 slides, copied the x,y,Y (0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%) into the 2nd tab of Dan's spreadsheet. Once all 30 are copied then look at the x,y Gamut chart and see how your points line up. The 100% will be outside the triangle, but the others lined up pretty well for me.
Knd is offline  
post #205 of 732 Old 05-25-2009, 09:24 AM
Member
 
opus007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Unfortunately my rgbcmy does not have a brightness control.Only hue and saturation.
opus007 is offline  
post #206 of 732 Old 05-25-2009, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
stereomandan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knd View Post

Dan,
I think that I'm starting to head in the right direction with my gamma. I have the 6500 and reset my brightness and contrast. I change my brightness to 1 (from 0) but moved my contrast from 3 to -5. I can now see bars 240 blinking on the AVS disc, but my gamma curve is starting to look good. Also, we just watched Handcock and it looked fantastic, went to the Hockey game and the colors were really good, with the ice looking particularly white. I redid gray scale (so so results) and did the 75% primaries

Please see the attached and see if I'm heading in the right direction.

Yes, you got it! Everything looks great. So how do you like the results?

You found the problem with your gamma (too high of contrast) before I could get a chance to reply. You were running out of Red and Blue, and all you needed to do was reduce contrast to get things back in line.

Dan
stereomandan is offline  
post #207 of 732 Old 05-25-2009, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
stereomandan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Opus,

Remember to save your settings when you are done with a calibration session. Then for the different sources, you'll need to load the memory setting. My epson remembers all of my sources independantly, and if I don't manually load my calibrated memory setting for each source, it won't have the new settings. Even for the same source, if it's a 24fps signal, like Blu-ray it will have a seperate memory setting for 60fps video from the same source. Just something to keep in mind if you want to check your calibrated settings on other source.

Not having a brightness setting for the RCGCMY menu is a bummer. This will make things difficult. You should focus on greyscale and gamma. In the RGBCMY menu, focus on getting Hue correct.

Dan
stereomandan is offline  
post #208 of 732 Old 05-25-2009, 10:14 AM
Knd
Senior Member
 
Knd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Dan,
Thanks for all the help, we love it. I'm going to stop calibrating for a while because I was viewing color windows more than Blu Rays or HDTV . We've watched a variety of material and it all looks great. I know I could spend some more time on this calibration to get everything tighter, but I'm not sure I could see the difference.

I think my next project maybe trying a calibration of living room on Low Lamp.
Knd is offline  
post #209 of 732 Old 05-25-2009, 02:01 PM
Member
 
opus007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

Opus,

Remember to save your settings when you are done with a calibration session. Then for the different sources, you'll need to load the memory setting. My epson remembers all of my sources independantly, and if I don't manually load my calibrated memory setting for each source, it won't have the new settings. Even for the same source, if it's a 24fps signal, like Blu-ray it will have a seperate memory setting for 60fps video from the same source. Just something to keep in mind if you want to check your calibrated settings on other source.

Not having a brightness setting for the RCGCMY menu is a bummer. This will make things difficult. You should focus on greyscale and gamma. In the RGBCMY menu, focus on getting Hue correct.

Dan

Thanks Dan,unfortunately I am aware of the Epson settings.I wish I could just calibrate for each color mode and have them stay that way instead of having to use the memory. I like Theater mode best but calibrated for Natural so had to do Theater also.I do not have a brightness on my RGBCMY but was able to calibrate it to the where the X,Y where on the money and the percentages where also correct.Just not the brightness but it did not seem to cause a problem as it does look very good now.I still have a very,very slight red push in shadow detail on faces but if I recall correctly ,that when I first got the projector it did the same thing till the bulb settled down after the 100 hour mark.Other than that I am very happy now with the results.Thanks for the help as I have learned more than I know...even though frustration set in many time during the last few days.
opus007 is offline  
post #210 of 732 Old 05-25-2009, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
stereomandan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I've noticed red push in dark scene flesh tones before as well. This is more due to your greyscale than your RGBCMY settings.

You could try getting the 10% and 20% greyscale to be a little more towards the blue side (but still within reason). This helps greatly with that problem, at least in my experience. Flesh tones are on the darker side of the brightness gamut, so make sure your 10-40% greyscale doesn't emphasize red. That should help.

By the way, the greyscale in your "best so far" settings is fantastic!!! I do notice red being a little strong at 10% and 20%, so bumping the red offset doewn should help a lot.

Dan
stereomandan is offline  
Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

Tags
Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 8100 Home Theatre Projector V11h336120 , Epson 5010 Powerlite Home Cinema 3d Front Projector , Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 3010 2d And 3d Projector V11h421020 , Epson 1080 Hd Budget Priced Projector , Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 8500 Ub Lcd Projector V11h337020 , Epson Home Cinema 8700 Ub Projector , Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 6100 1080p 3lcd Home Theater Projector , Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 6500ub Home Theater Projector
Gear in this thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off