Official JVC RS20 / HD750 Calibration and CMS thread (NEW FIRMWARE V1.1) - Page 37 - AVS Forum
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post #1081 of 1634 Old 09-08-2009, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

Impossible to tell, as there is no HDMV version for 1.2, only the patched version (BD burnt on DVD-R). I don't have my 1.2 disc anymore, so I can't compare.

Thanks very much ...

Unluckly you don't have it anymore ....
It was interesting to compare 1.2 patched with 1.3 patched if they're the same ... then later if the 1.3 HDMV will results the right one, this will means that either 1.2 is wrong ....
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post #1082 of 1634 Old 09-08-2009, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

I had to stop the second stage of my gamma experiments (hope I won't end like Bruce Banner) because I think I found a bug in the AVS HD 1.3b discs which I use to calibrate...

I did all my work yesterday with the patched disk (Bluray burnt on DVD) and I tried today the HDMV (bluray on BD) disc: there is a HUGE difference between the way the patterns measure from one disc to the other, on the same player (a Panasonic BD-50).

I calibrated the i1pro on its tile before running each serie of gamut+greyscale, did it a few times to make sure it was the disc, and it is. Nothing changes between the runs apart from the disc used, and the results are VERY different.

There is also something very weird, which I noticed today: on the patched version, at low IRE (especially 5 and 10), you can see a kind of pattern, as if large reddish squares were within larger greenish square (you really have to look closely, to most people I guess it would just be dark grey). On the HDMV version, this is not noticeable (it looks solid grey). I used the 100% window patterns.

I don't think the two are linked, but I was wondering if some of you had experienced something similar?

I assume the HDMV should be the one to trust, but before I restart from scratch all my gamut and gamma calibration, I'd like to get to the bottom of this.

I attach the two files (patched and hdmv measured tonight). Please ignore the readings under 20IRE in the grescale, I was using the i1pro and not the trained d2 so it's all over the place. I also attach my last measurements from yesterday after the 2nd pass on white only (made with the trained d2, with the patched disc) for you to see the difference. The i1pro patched taken today is pretty close, except for a big difference on cyan which I can't explain (I haven't touched any settings on the PJ, just the tripod). [EDIT: I remember I brought cyan onto the line between blue and green yesterday after I measured the gamut in the 2nd pass file, so that explains the larger dE for for cyan in the two i1pro files taken today].

Thanks for posting this. I have been using the VP50pro's test patterns, but it only has 100% stimulus, so I was about to give one of the AVS disks a whirl today. Then I see your post.. If I have some spare time, I'll make an attempt at burning the different DVD's and see if I have the same results as you.

Have you spent much time playing with the CalMAN low light trigger and sample rates for low IRE readings? I have found that if I'm patient, they can be reliable with the i1pro to 10 IRE. (I do not have test patterns lower than 10)

Also, what version of CalMAN are you running? They just put up version 3.5 that I have not tried yet. Version 3.4 allows you to point the meter at the projector and position it fairly close with the diffuser on, and position it close enough to actually do some good. I've made several runs facing the projector and the screen to find the results too close for me to bother with facing the screen anymore when going grey scale. I also do the gamut facing the projector, then I'll face the screen to confirm my settings. I have not had to make any changes to the gamut (I use a Stewart Firehawk)
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post #1083 of 1634 Old 09-08-2009, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highlander_AVS View Post

Thanks very much ...

Unluckly you don't have it anymore ....
It was interesting to compare 1.2 patched with 1.3 patched if they're the same ... then later if the 1.3 HDMV will results the right one, this will means that either 1.2 is wrong ....

My calibration done with AVS HD 1.2 and measured with AVS 1.3b was almost the same (minor variation due to lamp aging). So I think 1.2 an 1.3b patched measure the same. The question remains are they both wrong or is HDMV 1.3b wrong?
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post #1084 of 1634 Old 09-08-2009, 02:23 PM
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Quick question for any Calman users. Is there a report, or can one be created that gives the individual gamma points for each color at each IRE step. I'm was able to use HCFR to try leDahu's gamma procedure and it works really well. I wanted to try Calman to get the same data. It seem's that I get more consistent readings from Calman.

Thanks
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post #1085 of 1634 Old 09-08-2009, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrew View Post

Thanks for posting this. I have been using the VP50pro’s test patterns, but it only has 100% stimulus, so I was about to give one of the AVS disks a whirl today. Then I see your post….. If I have some spare time, I’ll make an attempt at burning the different DVD’s and see if I have the same results as you.

Have you spent much time playing with the CalMAN low light trigger and sample rates for low IRE readings? I have found that if I’m patient, they can be reliable with the i1pro to 10 IRE. (I do not have test patterns lower than 10)

Also, what version of CalMAN are you running? They just put up version 3.5 that I have not tried yet. Version 3.4 allows you to point the meter at the projector and position it fairly close with the diffuser on, and position it close enough to actually do some good. I’ve made several runs facing the projector and the screen to find the results too close for me to bother with facing the screen anymore when going grey scale. I also do the gamut facing the projector, then I'll face the screen to confirm my settings. I have not had to make any changes to the gamut (I use a Stewart Firehawk)

Unfortunately Calman isn't stable on my laptops so I'm using HCFR. I should test further the V3.5, but I've been unlucky with all the versions 3.x, so sorry I can't help.
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post #1086 of 1634 Old 09-08-2009, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

Unfortunately Calman isn't stable on my laptops so I'm using HCFR. I should test further the V3.5, but I've been unlucky with all the versions 3.x, so sorry I can't help.

I recently bought a new laptop because of this. I just bought a cheap Toshiba running Vista. It was $400, dual core processor. Calman runs well with it, but now I can't control my VP50P with it due to the USB/Serial cable that Vista does not like.

Version 3 had numerous bugs. I would definately upgrade and give it a whirl again. 3.4 works pretty much bug free.
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post #1087 of 1634 Old 09-08-2009, 06:21 PM
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My RS 20 has 225 hours on the original bulb
It was QC'D and the gray scale was done by Jason prior to shipping
I have heard that after this many hours the gray scale is way off.

Should I go ahead and do the Firmware update and plug in a set of numbers that you guys have came up with? I do not know how to do a gray scale calibration.

I am thinking very hard about the RS 35 upgrade if the reports come back in a very positive manner.
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post #1088 of 1634 Old 09-08-2009, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

My RS 20 has 225 hours on the original bulb
It was QC'D and the gray scale was done by Jason prior to shipping
I have heard that after this many hours the gray scale is way off.

Should I go ahead and do the Firmware update and plug in a set of numbers that you guys have came up with? I do not know how to do a gray scale calibration.

I am thinking very hard about the RS 35 upgrade if the reports come back in a very positive manner.

Perhaps even more significant than the grayscale is the gamma drift we have been discussing in these past few pages here. Your gamma is probably closer to 2.1 by now which results in some loss of dimensionality. Ideally you can find a calibrator in your area to update your grayscale and gamma now that your bulb has aged some.
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post #1089 of 1634 Old 09-08-2009, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Perhaps even more significant than the grayscale is the gamma drift we have been discussing in these past few pages here. Your gamma is probably closer to 2.1 by now which results in some loss of dimensionality. Ideally you can find a calibrator in your area to update your grayscale and gamma now that your bulb has aged some.

Yeah I was trying to hold off on a calibrator since I might upgrade to the rs 35.
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post #1090 of 1634 Old 09-09-2009, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

My calibration done with AVS HD 1.2 and measured with AVS 1.3b was almost the same (minor variation due to lamp aging). So I think 1.2 an 1.3b patched measure the same. The question remains are they both wrong or is HDMV 1.3b wrong?

Yes ... Thanks ..
I'll stay tuned if some of you all can develope and revelate this "last" Mystery ...

Mine, was calibrated with 1.2 disc played by a PS3, i-one Pro and Colorsfact
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post #1091 of 1634 Old 09-09-2009, 01:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Just to follow up on the patched vs hdmv version of the AVSHD discs, I have received a reply from AlluringReality saying that it is not something they have experienced on their bluray player.

He's asked me to take more than one run for each disc, which I will do if I have the time. I'm also going to measure from another source to rule out the player, and compare with the free pattern generator from Calman on my HDMI laptop to check against a "reference".

I have no idea when I'll be able to do this, but if I find anything that's not specific to my source, I'll post the measurements in the AVS HD thread as it's not really specific to the HD750 (hopefully).

Although I haven't saved different runs, the (repeatable) difference between the two versions on my BD-50 is around 3dE on some colors between the two discs. It is less than 1dE as expected between different runs of the same disc (with a recalibration of the i1pro between each run to rule out any thermal drift).

In the meantime if anyone with a bluray burner using the new HDMV version (and preferably an i1pro or better, although the absolute measurement is not relevant, just the difference) could try to burn the patched version on a DVD-R and see if they experience something similar, that would be great.
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post #1092 of 1634 Old 09-09-2009, 05:10 PM
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Another four hours playing with my meter..... I don't know how the pro's do this without going nuts. I reckon good tools helps, but this sure isn't what I consider fun.

I'm having trouble with my grey scale above 90%. I think the rest looks OK. Red does a nose dive on me and I spent an hour with gamma and gain to try and get it to flatten out, but this is as good as I can get it without messing up the tracking below 90. Any ideas how to fix this, or should I just call it good enough? I'm not real sure how close I'm suposed to get these lines to pair up....

Can I bother some of you more experienced tweakers to look at my file and provide feed back? Am I close, out in the weeds or chasing my tail?? It sure seams as if I have to use way too much hue for Blue, but even if I zero out the CMS settings, I have to bump up color to +40 to get the AVS pulsing color chart bars look right with a blue filter.

Final settings:

ENHANCED
COLOR 0
TINT 0
CONTRAST +14
BRIGHTNESS -5
IRIS 0
LAMP LOW
SHARPNESS +15
EDGE DETAIL +5

Gamut -
H - S - B
R +3 -21 +8
Y -2 -46 +37
G +12 -40 +28
C +5 -45 +36
B +30 -16 +5
M +11 -25 +17

I'm using Calman V3.5 and an i1Pro. I used the V1.3 AVS test disk in my Oppo BD player.

 

9-10 RS20 CAL CHARTS.doc 115.5k . file
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post #1093 of 1634 Old 09-09-2009, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrew View Post

Another four hours playing with my meter..... I don't know how the pro's do this without going nuts. I reckon good tools helps, but this sure isn't what I consider fun.

I'm having trouble with my grey scale above 90%. I think the rest looks OK. Red does a nose dive on me and I spent an hour with gamma and gain to try and get it to flatten out, but this is as good as I can get it without messing up the tracking below 90. Any ideas how to fix this, or should I just call it good enough? I'm not real sure how close I'm suposed to get these lines to pair up....

Can I bother some of you more experienced tweakers to look at my file and provide feed back? Am I close, out in the weeds or chasing my tail?? It sure seams as if I have to use way too much hue for Blue, but even if I zero out the CMS settings, I have to bump up color to +40 to get the AVS pulsing color chart bars look right with a blue filter.

Final settings:

ENHANCED
COLOR 0
TINT 0
CONTRAST +14
BRIGHTNESS -5
IRIS 0
LAMP LOW
SHARPNESS +15
EDGE DETAIL +5

Gamut -
H - S - B
R +3 -21 +8
Y -2 -46 +37
G +12 -40 +28
C +5 -45 +36
B +30 -16 +5
M +11 -25 +17

I'm using Calman V3.5 and an i1Pro. I used the V1.3 AVS test disk in my Oppo BD player.

What is your dE at 90%, 95%, and 100%

If you turn the CMS off and measure 100%, does it improve?

Have you made any changes to the custom gamma menu?

What happens if you set everything back to the defaults (save your settings though!) such as cms off, gamma 2.2 and so forth offsets at 0,0,0 and gains at their defaults. Then measure it will be way too blue. But you should be able to use the r, g, and b gains to dial in 100% to dE near 0. Can you do this? If so how does 60-90% then measure? As I said don't throw away your settings but rather find a blank preset or something you can mess around with to try this.

Also how many hours on your bulb?
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post #1094 of 1634 Old 09-09-2009, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrew View Post

Any ideas how to fix this, or should I just call it good enough? I'm not real sure how close I'm suposed to get these lines to pair up....

Turn your contrast down to its neutral point.

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post #1095 of 1634 Old 09-09-2009, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomHuffman View Post

Turn your contrast down to its neutral point.

I assumed he was running with Extended HDMI type, in which case his contrast and brightness may be correctly set. I don't have a good frame of reference for this though since I always use Normal.
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post #1096 of 1634 Old 09-09-2009, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

I assumed he was running with Extended HDMI type, in which case his contrast and brightness may be correctly set. I don't have a good frame of reference for this though since I always use Normal.

In my experience the contrast control should be at about +8 with brightness at about -5 or -6 with the Enhanced HDMi mode. Contrast settings of +14 or +15 will cause saturation.

And , as has been discussed earlier on this forum - the use of the colored filters will not work on the RS20. I know because I used filters for several weeks and found I had to incorrectly set the color level to +15 etc resulting in way too high color level on real TV and BD DVD sources. So - Don't rely on the filter approach to setting your color level and hue

KT
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post #1097 of 1634 Old 09-10-2009, 03:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTTV Images View Post

In my experience the contrast control should be at about +8 with brightness at about -5 or -6 with the Enhanced HDMi mode. Contrast settings of +14 or +15 will cause saturation.

And , as has been discussed earlier on this forum - the use of the colored filters will not work on the RS20. I know because I used filters for several weeks and found I had to incorrectly set the color level to +15 etc resulting in way too high color level on real TV and BD DVD sources. So - Don't rely on the filter approach to setting your color level and hue

KT

Agreed. When on HDMI enhanced, I usually chose a contrast setting around +4 to +6, and contrast to -6.

By the way, regarding my ongoing discussion with AlluringReality about the HDMV vs PATCHED AVSHD discs, it looks increasingly like the problem may be related to my player model (or possibly the brand), and it may detect the patched version incorrectly as DVD instead of AVCHD, and therefore use the wron colorspace.

I'll post again when I have done more tests (bit busy at the moment, so I don't know when).
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post #1098 of 1634 Old 09-10-2009, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

Agreed. When on HDMI enhanced, I usually chose a contrast setting around +4 to +6, and contrast to -6.

By the way, regarding my ongoing discussion with AlluringReality about the HDMV vs PATCHED AVSHD discs, it looks increasingly like the problem may be related to my player model (or possibly the brand), and it may detect the patched version incorrectly as DVD instead of AVCHD, and therefore use the wron colorspace.

I'll post again when I have done more tests (bit busy at the moment, so I don't know when).

Personally, I found that you start to lose red from the 100 IRE pattern (e.g. blue and green increase only) as you start bumping the contrast above a relatively low number. For the OP, I would do what Tom Huffman recommends: reduce contrast until G and B are balanced with R again.
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post #1099 of 1634 Old 09-10-2009, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

What is your dE at 90%, 95%, and 100%

If you turn the CMS off and measure 100%, does it improve?

Have you made any changes to the custom gamma menu?

What happens if you set everything back to the defaults (save your settings though!) such as cms off, gamma 2.2 and so forth offsets at 0,0,0 and gains at their defaults. Then measure it will be way too blue. But you should be able to use the r, g, and b gains to dial in 100% to dE near 0. Can you do this? If so how does 60-90% then measure? As I said don't throw away your settings but rather find a blank preset or something you can mess around with to try this.

Also how many hours on your bulb?

I'll give this a try. Thank you. I don't like my gamma this high on the low end anyway, so I need to re-do that again.

In regards to my contrast setttings, I have the projector's HDMI setting to enhanced. All my sources go to the VP50pro first and it outputs a 4:2:2 color space. I used the AVS test disk patterns that pulse for setting contrast and brightness. Should I ignore this and lower contrast anyway???
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post #1100 of 1634 Old 09-10-2009, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrew View Post

Should I ignore this and lower contrast anyway???

Only if you want RGB balance at 100%. You can't have both.

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post #1101 of 1634 Old 09-10-2009, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TomHuffman View Post

You can't have both.

My X wife told me that once.
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post #1102 of 1634 Old 09-10-2009, 02:27 PM
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Tom Huffman -

I tried lowering contrast to zero and re-shot the grey scale. Red dipped worse from 70% through 100%. When I moved contrast back to +14, my results were repeated the same as my file I posted earlier (better than with the contrast lowered).

Lovingdvd -

I did as you suggested, started fresh with THX, and also with the preset 6500 and natural, and the preset 2.2 gamma. I shot the grey scale on a 22 point run. Red drops off as before, but from 70% through 100%. I then tried to tweak color temp a bit, but still had no luck getting rid of the red dip.

I then selected my previous custom color and gamma settings and ran a grey scale run with 22 points selected. I raised red gamma at 95% and was able to get it to trend with B and G, but only to 95%. It does a nose dive from 95% to 100%. Even if I max out red gamma, there is no change above 95%. I'm beginning to think my meter is at the end of it's capability to read red above 95% or the projector's red is simply maxed out above 95%. What do you think?? - I am taking measurements with the meter facing the projector, 24 away with the diffuser on. Max lumens are roughly 1700, per the meter positioning wizard in Calman. According to the wizard, I can go as high as 32,000.

To answer your other questions.
My DE at all points of the grey scale is between .5 and 1.5 up to 90%. 90% is right at 2 DE. 95% is 3 DE and 100% is 5 DE.
Yes, I made lots of Gamma changes. I used leDahu's work sheet with his pre-set curve targets.
My bulb has 740 hours on it.
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post #1103 of 1634 Old 09-10-2009, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrew View Post

I tried lowering contrast to zero and re-shot the grey scale. Red dipped worse from 70% through 100%. When I moved contrast back to +14, my results were repeated the same as my file I posted earlier (better than with the contrast lowered).

You can't just lower contrast and remeasure.

After lowering the contrast (and not necessarily to zero, but lower than you have it now--just experiment), then you have to re-balance RGB. You should have enough headroom now to raise the red gain high enough to balance blue and green. If you can't get red to move up, then leave red where it is and move green and blue down to meet it (this is similar to just lowering the contrast).

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post #1104 of 1634 Old 09-11-2009, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, I've spent a couple of hours watching patterns...
I've decided to post here and not in the AVS HD thread because it looks like the issue is linked to (amplified by) the settings of the PJ.

Methodology:
First of all I checked a bit further and my BD-50 does detect the AVCHD format on the DVD-R, so that's not the issue.
I used the i1pro, HDMI standard, brightness and contrast at zero, iris at -5.
I recalibrated the i1pro before each run to avoid any thermal drift (bringing the plate to it, careful not to move the tripod/meter). I usually just press "hide" in my bat cave, but I thought I'd do things as they should be done to rule out any variable (one could say my method is actually better as there is no contact with the meter/tripod, but hey, I'm not going to do it again...). The meter was facing the screen. I didn't use the display2 as I didn't want to have the meter training factor in the equation. So take values below 20IRE for the greyscale with a pinch of salt.
I did two runs per disc for each serie (except for the last two) so that we have a control read. I did 10 steps greyscale plus gamut (100% stim) for each run, again except the last two (just gamut, and only one run per disc).
The whole session took place over a couple of hours, and at no point was the tripod/meter moved. I gave the PJ 30mn to warm up before I started.

Here are the results:

I started with THX OOTB (with untweaked 6500K preset). There was NO significant difference between the patched and HDMV version (around 1dE, max 2dE, which is what one could expect between two runs of the same measurements).

I then tried my User1 preset (last calibration, tweaked 6500K, tweaked gamma as per my last posted measurements). Sure enough, the difference between the two versions was back, up to 3-4 dE, depending on the color (EDIT: I only checked the gamut data between all the runs, as this is where I first noticed the difference. I took the greyscale info in case it can help those who know better to understand what's going on).

I then tried with a normal gamma, and the difference was still there.

I then tried with the 6500 untweaked color temp, and most of the difference was gone...

I then checked my last calibration using the internal ramps, and I realised it was quite badly clipping on green.

I thought maybe when we get it wrong the differences between the two versions are amplified, so I typed in my last "good" calibration. The clipping on green was gone, but the difference between the versions was still there. For these last two runs I measured only the gamut and did only one run (I was getting tired).

So I'm posting here because it is pretty inconclusive. There is a repeatable difference between the two discs, and it's pretty significant (IMHO), but not on THX, and not on the 6500K standard color temp preset, so YMMV, and it could be a 750 specific issue.

I'll try to check with a pattern generator at some point, but for now I'm going to use the HDMV disc, as if one of the two is right it's most likely to be HDMV.

I'm getting a bit tired to watch patterns, so whoever wants to take over from here is welcome.

I had to split the archive it two parts. Unzip both parts in the same folder and sort by date/time, that way you'll see them in the order I measured them.

 

AVS HD Variation Part1.zip 243.759765625k . file

 

AVS HD Variation Part2.zip 418.2119140625k . file
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post #1105 of 1634 Old 09-12-2009, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

......but for now I'm going to use the HDMV disc, as if one of the two is right it's most likely to be HDMV......

Thanks Manni ..

So, you're saying that 1.2 patched version disc is wrong or maybe the patched version interacts "bad" with our custom made presets ????
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post #1106 of 1634 Old 09-12-2009, 02:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Highlander_AVS View Post

Thanks Manni ..

So, you're saying that 1.2 patched version disc is wrong or maybe the patched version interacts "bad" with our custom made presets ????

I haven't done tests specifically with V1.2, but when I measured the calibration I did a while ago with V1.2 patched with V1.3b patched, it measured very close, and the small difference I put down to the bulb aging (around 50 hours vs around 150 hours yesterday). I's only when I tried V1.3b HDMV that it measured different.

You should try measuring 1.2 patched vs 1.2 HDMV with your PJ / your BD player and see if you find the same difference with your user preset (or preferably 1.3b patched vs 1.3b HDMV to keep current).

There is no point in causing a general panic in the AVS HD thread if no one can replicate this with another rs20/hd750 and a different BD player (or if no one cares enough to do some tests).

Although in theory the two discs (HDMV and PATCHED) shouldn't measure different under any circumstances, I'd like to understand more about the possible reasons for such a behaviour, which probably means someone has to step in and do some tests with their user presets / their equipment.
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post #1107 of 1634 Old 09-12-2009, 03:15 AM - Thread Starter
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By the way, I forgot to say that the weird pattern in the patched version is still visible at low IREs.

If you display 5IRE or 10IRE white window pattern, in the patched disc, you can see large reddish rectangles within larger greenish rectangles. The red rectangles are about one half of the width and one third of the height of the window. I haven't checked if full fields show the same pattern or not. The pattern is gone (or too subtle to be seen) in the HDMV disc.

It's subtle but definitely visible (at least with my eyes / my equipment).

I have no idea if the two things are related or not (or even if it matters in any way!).
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post #1108 of 1634 Old 09-12-2009, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

...If you display 5IRE or 10IRE white window pattern, in the patched disc, you can see large reddish rectangles within larger greenish rectangles...

Clearly then that is going to impact the measurement, assuming this pattern repeats throughout the window and is overlayed onto the meter. I only use the full fields, but the next time I have things fired up (likely this evening) I'll take a close look at the 5% and 10% patterns and let you know when I can see this pattern. I think I am using the 1.2b disc FWIW.
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post #1109 of 1634 Old 09-12-2009, 08:50 AM
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I just want to point out that since this thread started on April 28 2009 I've applied manni's settings & the picture is just wonderful. I would also like to remind people here that I've seen 68,564 movies ever since while you folks continue to make it a tad better

Cheers
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post #1110 of 1634 Old 09-12-2009, 08:59 AM
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I just want to point out that since this thread started on April 28 2009 I've applied manni's settings & the picture is just wonderful. I would also like to remind people here that I've seen 68,564 movies ever since while you folks continue to make it a tad better

Glad you are able to leverage all the hard work. All we ask is that you take us for a spin one day.

Chris - one important thing I would like to point out... Assuming you have 200-300 hours or more on your bulb, I highly recommend getting it calibrated. This is because no settings posted here can correct your gamma, which no doubt-ably has drifted significantly from 2.2. My guess is that, if you haven't had it calibrated, you are probably running closer to 2.0.

The impact on this is very significant. You would be amazed to see the dimensionality that would return to the picture (even if you think it already looks stellar) once the gamma was corrected.
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