Official JVC RS20 / HD750 Calibration and CMS thread (NEW FIRMWARE V1.1) - Page 55 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1621 of 1636 Old 04-06-2012, 09:11 AM
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I've got into the service menu. But didn't see where it actually says Firmware 1.0 or 1.1 Will look again tonight and tell ye what is actually written. I'm sure I've seen smth with just a load or numbers etc. But nth simple like 1.0 or 1.1.
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post #1622 of 1636 Old 04-06-2012, 10:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raine0 View Post

I've got into the service menu. But didn't see where it actually says Firmware 1.0 or 1.1 Will look again tonight and tell ye what is actually written. I'm sure I've seen smth with just a load or numbers etc. But nth simple like 1.0 or 1.1.

You'll need help from a current user as I don't have my rs20 anymore, but if you look at the date it should say something like april 09 (coded in some way) for the main/CMS. If it's an earlier date (in 08), it's likely to be 1.0.
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post #1623 of 1636 Old 04-06-2012, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post


You'll need help from a current user as I don't have my rs20 anymore, but if you look at the date it should say something like april 09 (coded in some way) for the main/CMS. If it's an earlier date (in 08), it's likely to be 1.0.

Thx for the info Manni. Will take down the number and post it up here and maybe some genius will help me decipher it!
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post #1624 of 1636 Old 04-08-2012, 05:25 AM
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Ok updated firmware. I need to ask, is there anyway or trick to change the NR and Sharpness numbers in THX mode? Thx!

And also I take it that OOTB THX gamma can't be changed either? Unless with extra tools?
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post #1625 of 1636 Old 04-08-2012, 08:53 AM
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THX mode is pretty locked down. Most calibrators use a different mode, since just about everything is adjustable in the other modes (without going into the service menu). And since you are adjusting it all anyway, it doesn't matter that it starts off more poorly than in THX mode.

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post #1626 of 1636 Old 04-08-2012, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

THX mode is pretty locked down. Most calibrators use a different mode, since just about everything is adjustable in the other modes (without going into the service menu). And since you are adjusting it all anyway, it doesn't matter that it starts off more poorly than in THX mode.

Thx for the reply. In my room conditions THX mode lacks depth and looks washed out and I was just seeing if I could tweak a bit, just to hv the colours and try and add a bit more depth to the image.
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post #1627 of 1636 Old 04-08-2012, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raine0 View Post


Thx for the reply. In my room conditions THX mode lacks depth and looks washed out and I was just seeing if I could tweak a bit, just to hv the colours and try and add a bit more depth to the image.

What about reading the first post of this thread? Every question you have is probably adressed with a direct link in the thread. All this has been discussed at length at the time
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post #1628 of 1636 Old 04-08-2012, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post


What about reading the first post of this thread? Every question you have is probably adressed with a direct link in the thread. All this has been discussed at length at the time

Yeah I've read a lot. Sometimes stuff seems spread out and hard to find smth definitive to some of my questions.
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post #1629 of 1636 Old 04-10-2012, 07:40 PM
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Bit newb to all this calibration stuff but I'm wondering if somebody can to me how to try some CMS settings without calibration tools at hand. I want to try out settings posted at the beginning of thread but dunno how to start lol. For example smth like

r 2 -26 10
y 5 -48 38
g 0 -44 33
c 4 -49 39
b 0 -24 10
m -1 -30 15

With the RS20, where and how do I put these figures in? Thx!
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post #1630 of 1636 Old 04-11-2012, 07:55 AM
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I strongly recommend not putting in values for the color space without measuring. And irric, THX mode actually has pretty accurate color settings OOTB.

The pop you are looking for is probably related to gamma.

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post #1631 of 1636 Old 04-11-2012, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

I strongly recommend not putting in values for the color space without measuring. And irric, THX mode actually has pretty accurate color settings OOTB.

The pop you are looking for is probably related to gamma.

+1! THX mode is going to be way better than some other projector's numbers. There's just too much variability... large variability.
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post #1632 of 1636 Old 04-11-2012, 08:54 AM
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That's the thing. THX mode is flat and the gamma can't be adjusted. So will hv to go and adjust in a user mode.
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post #1633 of 1636 Old 12-07-2012, 09:56 PM
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Just got my JVC calibration updated by Jeff at AccuCal. Here are the measured results.




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post #1634 of 1636 Old 03-10-2013, 01:28 PM
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hi

can someone please share on how i can completely turn off any CMS within the RS20?

i want to calibrate with Lightspace but get weird results due to the internal CMS.

thanks in advance!

cheerz
mark
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post #1635 of 1636 Old 02-16-2015, 08:37 PM
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I maybe should start a new topic, but since I have managed to determine that my sources behave this way when connected directly to the projector, the only factors I can think of are either the sources or the projector.....

I have a OPPO 103D and a DISH Hopper, which nicely fill my screen when fed to the RS20.

I have an Apple TV and a PS3, which have a shifted image -- about 5% to the right, when connected to the RS20.

I can "fix" this, by using lens shift.... but then the other sources are not aligned correctly.

I'm thinking it must be a projector setting. I pulled the receiver out of the mix, and am connecting sources directly for testing.

Anyone seen such a thing before?

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post #1636 of 1636 Old 05-26-2015, 05:36 AM
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Hi all,

I have read all the calibration thread and experimented using my HD950. My experience is as follows:

1. Trying to shoot for perfect greyscale with these projectors will seriously sacrifice your possible best contrast performance.
2. I found that I much prefer a bright and contrasty image so for me, the very best looking setting is one where the green offset is left at 0 (to leave black level intact), while using blue to get the perfect greyscale at lower brightness levels. While instead of pushing green and blue gain down to make up for the red deficiency of the lamp, I actually pushed green gain UP (+10) and blue gain down (-10) somewhat. This makes the contrast literally pop off the screen because of the extra brightness while still keeping dE below 2 across the whole range. Sure, it is not as accurate as having below 0.5 dE but as long as the CMS is done spot on, the errors are not noticeable - and I am pretty picky with my image quality.

Anyway, just thought I'd add this to the end of this thread in case someone stumbled across this and wanted to experiment.
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