Mitsubishi HC6800 LCD HD Projector (30,000:1 on/off) - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 1121 Old 11-06-2009, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk View Post

I cannot speak for others but we always have it discounted.

I went to the AV science store website, and the HC6800 is not listed? Is this one that is available from the AV Science store??
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post #272 of 1121 Old 11-06-2009, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RABBITFISH View Post

YMMV at any Best Buy.

Help me out here..What does that mean???[/quote]

Your mileage may vary

Best buy discounting policies vary greatly from store to store...

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post #273 of 1121 Old 11-06-2009, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RABBITFISH View Post

I went to the AV science store website, and the HC6800 is not listed? Is this one that is available from the AV Science store??

Send a private message to Jason...

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post #274 of 1121 Old 11-06-2009, 03:48 PM
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5mark -- I'm going to have to try that menu sequence. I played around with the various options last night. I got my self thoroughly confused, and the combinations didn't seem to work right.

I will have to put in a 2.40:1 movie tonight and try your method (on my HC5500 & 16:9 screen).

I was under the impression that an Anamorphic lens was needed with the Mitsubishi approach to this feature. At least that's what the manual implies. I thought that only the AE3000/4000 could do a "proper" CIH operation without an external lens.

RABBITFISH -- When you come across an acronym that you don't understand (like YMMV), just go to Google and do a search. So far I've found 100% of all that I have searched for, BTW (= By The Way).

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post #275 of 1121 Old 11-06-2009, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5mark View Post

I occasionally try and spread the word about the Mitsubishi's CIH abilities in the 5500 thread and since there seems to be some interest here...

Yes, the 6800 also has the built in 'shrink method' for doing constant image height. You simply change 'screen size' to 2.35:1 in the advanced menu settings. Then you fill your 2.35:1 screen with a scope movie just like using the zoom method. Hitting the 16:9 AR button will instantly downscale or 'shrink' 16:9 material the perfect amount to fit on the 2.35:1 screen. Yes, you lose resolution, but as long as you are sitting where pixel structure is not an issue, the results should be very good (the Mits projectors are known for having great scalers) Check out the above linked post (and a few more after it) for feedback from a 5500 user. Of course if you already have a Mits projector, just try it out for yourself...

This method actually has some advantages over the zoom memory feature in the Pannys. You only have to push one button on the remote and it happens instantly vs going through a couple of menus. You also don't have to worry about losing accuracy(zoom/focus) or the parts wearing out over time (don't know if this happens but it seems like a possibility...) You even get the added benefit of maintaining constant brightness and calibrations for both aspect ratios.(Not the case with the zoom method)

I never knew the Mits projectors had this capability. This would be very convenient for those that don't have a lens or don't have the budget for one.

Quote:


I will have to put in a 2.40:1 movie tonight and try your method (on my HC5500 & 16:9 screen).

Claus - Let us know how well it works, especially how good or bad a 16x9 movie looks "shrunk".
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post #276 of 1121 Old 11-06-2009, 06:38 PM
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5mark -- It works as advertised.

Going to Menu => Image => Advanced Menu => Ok (Enter button) => Screen Size = CinemaScope (2.35:1) will display a 2.35:1 image from any source (with the Aspect control set to "Auto").

Going to Menu => Feature => Aspect lets you toggle between "Auto" (= 2.35:1) and 16:9 pictures while maintaining a constant height (= CIH).

phisch -- I just did a quickie test. It did exactly what it should on both a 2.35:1 movie (Star Wars, Episode 1) and on a 16:9 HDTV program. The unfortunate side effect is that the 16:9 program material looked "small" -- 80" x 39" is a whole lot smaller than 92" x 52".

In the 2.35:1 mode (Aspect = "Auto"), the 2.35:1 movie filled the entire width (92") of my screen with the correct height. With a HDTV program it was vertically zoomed (the top & bottom of the picture was cut off). When I then toggled the Aspect control to "16:9" the full 16:9 picture was displayed on my screen (in the correct size it should be if I really had a 92" wide, 2.35:1, screen), with black bars on both sides of the 16:9 HDTV image.

There did not appear to be any degradation in PQ. However, I could do shadow-box images in the "black bar" areas (how much depends on the relative black levels & my HC5500 isn't as good as the HC6800). An unfortunate side effect is that this operation seems to defeat the correct auto-iris function. The HC6800 has video blanking, which should be able to darken those black bars (if I understand its operation correctly), and possibly help the auto-iris operation.

NOTE: I mentally put an imaginary mask on my screen to pretend that it was 2.35:1 (92" x 39") rather than its actual size (92" x 52").

Bottom Line: This concept works (which I had not expected). However, it's not for me. The largest 2.35:1 screen I can fit into my room is a 115" one. That reduces 16:9 material to only 80" wide, and I got rid of an 80" wide screen as giving me too small of an image. Since most of my viewing is HDTV programs, I'm sticking with my 16:9 screen (at least for now). Wide-screen movies would be larger, of course, but we have a lot of 16:9 format DVDs.

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post #277 of 1121 Old 11-06-2009, 07:43 PM
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After I thought about it (while watching a HDTV program), I've decided that the only way to make a CIH work (for me anyway), is to get a really large 2.35:1 (10' wide, minimum) screen. Unfortunately, the "right" screen won't fit in my room. The screen is too wide and the PJ has to be too far back, or I will need another high gain screen and mount the PJ on the back wall, about 19' to 20' from the screen.

Therefore, I've concluded that I'll stick with my current 16:9 screen for the foreseeable future. It depends on what options, and choices, are available when I make my next PJ upgrade in about a year or two.

Hopefully, Mitsubishi will have a much improved model by that time.

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post #278 of 1121 Old 11-06-2009, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

5mark
There did not appear to be any degradation in PQ.

The on-board processing with the Mitsubishi must be pretty good indeed. I use a similar set up as 5Mark - a JVC RS projector and video processor (DVDO) to accomplish the shrink method, but the HC6800 is a one box solution at a much cheaper cost. I can see where this would be an attractive pj for those with a 2.35:1 screen.

Quote:


The largest 2.35:1 screen I can fit into my room is a 115" one.

Maybe an acoustically transparent screen would work for you if you ever decided to go CIH. I have a width limited theater, so I went with an AT screen that allowed me to go 120" wide for scope films, and still have a respectably nice sized 52" x 92.5" viewable area for 16x9 movies.
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post #279 of 1121 Old 11-07-2009, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

After I thought about it (while watching a HDTV program), I've decided that the only way to make a CIH work (for me anyway), is to get a really large 2.35:1 (10' wide, minimum) screen. Unfortunately, the "right" screen won't fit in my room. The screen is too wide and the PJ has to be too far back, or I will need another high gain screen and mount the PJ on the back wall, about 19' to 20' from the screen.

Therefore, I've concluded that I'll stick with my current 16:9 screen for the foreseeable future. It depends on what options, and choices, are available when I make my next PJ upgrade in about a year or two.

Hopefully, Mitsubishi will have a much improved model by that time.

A few pages back in this thread, I did make an observation: on 2.35 material, even on a 16:9 screen (especially with Blu Rays), you can set the PJ to 2.35. You will observe that the black bars on top and bottom seem to become even more "black" and raise perceived contrast. I watch 2.35 movies this way much of the time and there is definitely a difference.
I believe this causes the PJ to blank out the black bars altogether, somewhat akin to the way that old 4:3 TVs did that had a 16:9 mode.

Now, if you try this, be aware that many subtitles will be cut off from the bottom of the screen just like in a CIH setup.

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post #280 of 1121 Old 11-07-2009, 08:47 AM
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thank you guys for taking the time to discuss this interesting feature in the mitsubishi projectors. I've had the 5500 since July 08 and had no idea it could do this.

I have a large wall to work with and would attempt something similar as member avsnub in the 5500 thread did. I believe I have the space to replicate this setup:

2:35:1 (51" x 119.85")



With the masks installed, I believe he mentioned it would be 104.03" diagonal which is larger than my current 92" Dalite HP pull down.



It's a bit of work to install / take off the masks but I primarily use the projector for watching scope movies and would appreciate the full scope appearance on a large screen, especially without spending extra $$ on a lens.


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post #281 of 1121 Old 11-07-2009, 11:30 AM
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phisch -- Thanks for your suggestion. However, an AT screen isn't needed since my speakers are underneath my screen, and my LR/HT room requires a pull-down screen -- the main front windows are behind my screen. My room is only 13' wide and with the stuff against each wall, I only have about 9.5 feet of room width available. The largest 2.35:1 screen that will fit is around a 123" diagonal (113" x 48"), and even that would have to be offset from the room's centerline.

larrimore -- Using the technique described by 5mark (and reworded by me), the subtitles wouldn't be blanked out as long as they are within the 2.35:1 frame (if they are outside the 2.35:1 area, they will, of course, be blanked out in any CIH setup).

The black bar blanking didn't happen, automatically, with my HC5500. I haven't tried the "Shutter" option (in the "User" menu, page 29 in the manual). That looks like it might actually do the "black bar" blanking - I will have to try that. Unfortunately, that function is a manual adjustment only.

zombie10k -- From the short time I played with it, your plan should work out perfectly. The only hang-up would be screen brightness. Since you are used to the 92" High-Power screen, a larger & lower gain screen will cut the image brightness considerably.

I will try the "Shutter" function tonight. Unfortunately, I'm a little pressed for time right now - schedule conflicts. If it works as implied, then this is a very viable operational option for the HC5500/HC6500/HC6800/HC7000 series of PJs.

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post #282 of 1121 Old 11-07-2009, 07:01 PM
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zombie10k, larrimore, phisch, et. al. -- The "Shutter" function completes the entire 2.35:1 scenario. It moves video blanked (electronic) panels onto the native 16:9 area (Upper, Lower, Left Side, and Right Side = U, L, LS, RS).

These "electronic panels are not totally black, but are below the Digital 16 black video signal (I'm guessing they are around Digital 0 = electronic blanking). That is, when I set the Screen Size to Cinema Scope, and the Aspect Ratio to 16:9 (with a 16:9 program), I can see the black "shutters" moving across the screen from the edge towards the smaller 16:9 image. However, on my High Power screen, I can still do "shadow puppets" in the shuttered area.

On my HC5500, the edge of the black shutters reach the top & bottom edges at around 22 (range = 0 to 32), and the left & right edges at around 53 (range = 0 to 95). I've included the following to summarize the entire setup sequence for using a 2.35:1 screen, without an external lens.

-----

SUMMARY -- To use a 2.35:1 screen with the HC5500/HC6500/HC6800 PJs, without an Anamorphic lens, perform the following settings:

1.) MENU => IMAGE => ADVANCED MENU => OK (enter button) => SCREEN SIZE = CINEMA SCOPE(2.35:1)

2.) MENU => FEATURE => ASPECT = AUTO

3.) MENU => SIGNAL => USER => OK (enter button) => SHUTTER(U) = set to about 22 (increase until the black bar starts to cut off the top of the image, and back off by 1).

4.) Repeat step #3 for SHUTTER(L) -- again increase the setting until the black bar starts to cut off the bottom of the image (around 22) and back off by 1.

-- When watching a 16:9 video program on the 2.35:1 screen, perform the following additional adjustments:

1a.) MENU => FEATURE => ASPECT = 16:9

2a.) MENU => SIGNAL => USER => OK (enter button) => SHUTTER(LS) = set to about 53 (increase until the black bar starts to cut off the left side of the image, and back off by 1).

3a.) Repeat step #2a for SHUTTER(RS) -- again increase the setting until the black bar starts to cut off the right side of the image (around 53) and back off by 1.

When going back to a 2.35:1 movie, be sure to reset the side Shutters (LS) & (RS) back to "0".

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post #283 of 1121 Old 11-09-2009, 03:42 PM
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claus - thank you very much for taking the time to document this. I hope this is useful to all mitsubishi owners (5500,6500,6800, etc)

I believe I will stay with the high power screen material for the reasons you mentioned, the screen will be larger and the projector likely further back that it was before. My only issue is that it's going to be ceiling mounted this time and think I will lose much of the HP benefit. Before I had it shelf mounted about 6-8 inches above the viewer's heads. I am looking for a source to purchase the dalite material directly so I can make a screen from scratch, please PM me if you know of any sources.

I have a question about the shutters. Are they necessary? I was under the impression that you were zooming the screen so that the black bars are off the screen, into the black velvet areas of the screen. I don't recall the original poster in the HC5500 thread discussing using the shutters.

If you use the shutters, is it a manual process each time to go back and forth between 2:35:1 and 16x9? Could this be automated with a harmony remote?

thanks again for your contributions to the avsforum!!


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post #284 of 1121 Old 11-10-2009, 01:41 PM
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Zombie,

what kind of paint did you use for the two screens? Were you happy with the results? Can you point to the formula, if so? I have been looking into the diy section for a temporary painted screen for my HC6800, but have not been able to make my mind, yet.
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post #285 of 1121 Old 11-10-2009, 04:03 PM
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Well, I still haven't pulled the trigger yet. This 2:35 thing is really interesting. My living room is 12 feet wide so I could definitely do it. I'm still toying with the idea of the 8500UB though. I really liked the CFI on my 6500UB - on certain material of course. It's my only hesitation in getting the HC6800. I wish it had that feature. What to do.....
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post #286 of 1121 Old 11-10-2009, 11:21 PM
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zombie10k -- You are welcome. With a ceiling mounted PJ, the effective gain of the High-Power screen drops to around 1.6 to 1.8. Unless you have the ceiling treated with light absorbing material (or paint), you will get a lot of reflected light shining on it. You would probably be better of looking into an angular-reflective screen material (like the Vutec Silverstar - I think Elite has some new screen materials too). Da-Lite also has angular-reflective material also (you might want to check out the screen forum also).

Once you set the horizontal shutters (U & L), they don't have to be changed. Only the side shutters (LS & RS) need to be added when going from 2.35:1 to 16:9 (and removed when going back). I don't use a universal remote (Harmony or otherwise). I would think it could be done with a macro, since it requires a lot of button pushes (about 53 for each side shutter).

Use of the shutters is not required. However, it does make the black bars a little blacker (especially when watching 16:6 video on a 2.35:1 screen - unless you use physical masking, or a 16:9 pull-down screen in front of the 2.35:1 one - a second screen).

The shutters weren't discussed in the HC5500 thread because none of us really knew what they were for (at least I didn't). I read in the HC6500 thread where one member discussed the fact that it had "real" video blanking (he wasn't any more clear than that). I compared the HC6500 and HC5500 (and HC6800) manuals and did not find any reference to "blanking", but they all had the same "Shutter" function. So I just tried it, and discovered that that was exactly what he was talking about.

mariokrt64 -- Those pictures of screens were from avsnub in the HC5500 thread, not from zombie10k. Therefore, you are asking the wrong person. I would suggest that you either look on the HC5500 thread or do a search for posts by avsnub.

NYMN -- When buying a new PJ, you have to decide on what features are the most important to you. No matter which PJ you buy, it will always be a compromise. If you want both, then your only other choice is the Panasonic AE4000 (but that introduces a different set of compromises). It is your decision, and only you can make it.

Just don't jump until you are comfortable with the eventual PJ and the compromises that it entails. If you have a 6500UB, why don't you just keep it and enjoy it for another year. There will always be better PJs coming out a year from now. Some people buy a new PJ every year, just like some buy a new car every year (or a new PC). It certainly is not necessary. I, for one, am happy with my 16:9 screen and my HC5500 and I'm planning on enjoying them for another year, at least.

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post #287 of 1121 Old 11-11-2009, 07:45 AM
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Question:

I have a light controlled room (black front walls and ceiling is dark gray - walls are medium gray)

My throw will be approx 15 feet. I plan on going with a 2:37 DIY screen at approx 110" wide.

Has anyone used this PJ with a Wilson Art Designer White laminate? This is what I am going with. Gain is approx 1.3

Appreciate your input.
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post #288 of 1121 Old 11-11-2009, 10:33 AM
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Studio2000 -- For anyone that has tried the "Wilson Art Designer White laminate", a 110" x 46" (2.37:1) has about a 6% larger area than a 106" 16:9 screen. So those two screens would be comparable in terms of image brightness.

Based on the info for both the HC6500 (www.projectorreviews.com) & the HC6800 (www.projectorcentral.com), they are very similar in lumen output, you should be able to get around 700 lumens in the Cinema mode. That should give you around 22 to 25ft-L in the high lamp mode and close to 18 to 20ft-L in the low lamp mode (variable depending on the calibrated Contrast, white level, setting). That should be plenty, in a light controlled room.

Since the HC6800 has just starting to be available, I doubt that anyone has tried that screen with the HC6800. However, you might check the HC6500 thread for that information (either on a 106" to 110" diagonal, 16:9 screen, or a widescreen setup with a similar screen to what you are planning). I seem to recall some HC6500 owners using that screen with success.

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post #289 of 1121 Old 11-11-2009, 01:48 PM
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Is a 16' throw to far away for a 118" diagonal screen?

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post #290 of 1121 Old 11-11-2009, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

thank you guys for taking the time to discuss this interesting feature in the mitsubishi projectors. I've had the 5500 since July 08 and had no idea it could do this.

I have a large wall to work with and would attempt something similar as member avsnub in the 5500 thread did. I believe I have the space to replicate this setup:

2:35:1 (51" x 119.85")



With the masks installed, I believe he mentioned it would be 104.03" diagonal which is larger than my current 92" Dalite HP pull down.



It's a bit of work to install / take off the masks but I primarily use the projector for watching scope movies and would appreciate the full scope appearance on a large screen, especially without spending extra $$ on a lens.

Santa,

I was referring to these two screen under the Zoombie post. Thanks anyway, you always provides very valuable feedback...BTW, do you have experience with painted screens. I have been looking into the DYI screen forum, but so many options mentioned, have not being able to make my mind.
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post #291 of 1121 Old 11-11-2009, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mariokrt64 View Post

Santa,

I was referring to these two screen under the Zoombie post. Thanks anyway, you always provides very valuable feedback...BTW, do you have experience with painted screens. I have been looking into the DYI screen forum, but so many options mentioned, have not being able to make my mind.

Santa, OK . Now I see what you meant. Zoombie was referring in his post to the screens from the other person???/
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post #292 of 1121 Old 11-11-2009, 06:57 PM
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mariokrt64 -- Exactly!

rgathright -- No, but it depends on the gain of your screen. If your screen only has a gain of 1, then the low lamp mode will only give you about 14ft-L which is on the dim side, unless you have complete light control.

See http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mits...ulator-pro.htm for the setup calculator.

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post #293 of 1121 Old 11-13-2009, 06:23 AM
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Ct_Wiebe

Always thanks for your informative posts.

Question:

1) If I were to mount this projector on my back wall is there a wall arm and mount that you know will work for this Projector. I dont have a shelf, but see some manufacturers carry wall mounts or wall arms.

2) If I mount this projector so that the lens is in line with top of screen or above the center of screen, does the pj have to be put upside down or can this projector be put right side up? Can this projector be mounted any way?

Most of these wall mounts have an arm extention and then the projector looks like it fits similar to hanging up side down from a ceiling.

Thanks

Dave
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post #294 of 1121 Old 11-13-2009, 05:36 PM
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Studio2000 -- You can mount the HC6800 right-side up. I am not familiar with the "arm" mounts, but any that work for a small TV set (with a shelf) should work (as long as they can handle the weight). Just make sure that the shelf is level, and the PJ lens is roughly centered (right to left) on the screen.

- Claus {non-Santa model}
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post #295 of 1121 Old 11-14-2009, 03:39 PM
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CT_Wiebe - thanks for the advice! Definitely going to take my time. I actually just recently sold my 6500UB because I got a great offer for it. Barely lost anything on it. I did enjoy it, but I had to go through a couple of replacements to get one that worked properly. It's my hesitation with going for the 8500UB. The Mitsubishi pj's seem to be very well built! I almost never hear anything bad about them! The reason I still can't decide on the Mits is because I have no where to see it where I live.
Can anyone here comment on how it is with sports - I'm a touch concerned about motion blur. For movies I generally used 4:4 pulldown with my 6500UB, not CFI and thought it was great. Would anyone know if the Mits would be similar when watching movies at 24fps? And I was also wondering if the HC6800 uses the C2Fine D7 panels. Anyone know? I can't seem to find any info on that. My apologies if I missed it somewhere in this thread.
Thanks

Oh, and I wanted to add that up here in Canada, the Mits would be about $300 more than the 8500UB(after rebate).
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post #296 of 1121 Old 11-14-2009, 10:11 PM
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I would also be interested in HC6800 owners giving us your opinion on motion blur.

For those of you who have had this PJ for a little while, can you please give us an update on the system performance thus far, anu issues and how it has functioned in your environment.

I would be interested in your overall impressions with regards to image, color, black level, motion blur etc.

I am really interested in this Projector thanks!

Dave
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post #297 of 1121 Old 11-15-2009, 12:29 AM
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I finally got a chance to test this out in my new space. I went a little overboard, the first three 2:39:1 shots are 58" high x 138" wide. Yes that is light fixture in the photo, I was trying to go for maximum size to offset changing over to 16:9. The light may have to go.

This is just a tan painted wall, but the results are amazing. I see why everyone gets so excited in the 2:35:1 forums, the huge size of the screen along with the missing black bars provides a great cinema sensation. The black bars are zoomed off the wall, the top bar is being projected onto the ceiling and the lower bar is on a dark green horizontal partition I have on the wall. Once I decide on an exact size, I'll replace the white ceiling tiles with black to reduce reflection.

All I had to do was change the aspect from 'auto' to 16:9 for the 16:9 content. The 16:9 screen is 58" x 105" wide. The projector is 17 FT from the wall with this setup. Claus, I will likely use HP material again, but it's surprisingly watchable at this size on a painted wall. I have a light controlled environment this time around.

I didn't see a real need for the shutter function, I don't think it masks the pillar bars on 16:9 any more than they already are as a result of the format change. I would still create a masking system as AVSNUB did to darken those pilars during 16:9 viewing.

The REON HQV processor is doing a fantastic job scaling the image, I have to agree with the others, I cannot see any kind of image loss with this setup, the 16:9 video is as crisp and sharp as it is in standard 16:9 mode. The option to go between scope and 16:9 with the push of a single button is a great feature of the Mitsubishi 5500/6500/6800 projectors. I only wish I knew about this 15 months ago when I bought it.

The camera is in the same location for all the shots so everyone can get a perspective of the size difference.

The only bad thing is, it's going to be hard to watch 16:9 video once you see how immersive scope is.











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post #298 of 1121 Old 11-15-2009, 06:20 AM
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I know I should not judge by pics, but that is an amazing image for projecting on the wall, which gives me hope if I used the WA Laminate material.

The reason why I was going to choose the PTAE 4000 was because of the the ease of 2:35. I know that the Mitsubishi although not as sophisticated with all the 2:35, has that capability and I have finally decided based on months to years of research that this is the PJ for me.

Just a final question on motion blur before I pull the trigger. How does this PJ perform with motion?

Thanks

Dave
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post #299 of 1121 Old 11-15-2009, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Studio2000 View Post

I know I should not judge by pics, but that is an amazing image for projecting on the wall, which gives me hope if I used the WA Laminate material.

The reason why I was going to choose the PTAE 4000 was because of the the ease of 2:35. I know that the Mitsubishi although not as sophisticated with all the 2:35, has that capability and I have finally decided based on months to years of research that this is the PJ for me.

Just a final question on motion blur before I pull the trigger. How does this PJ perform with motion?

Thanks

Dave

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post #300 of 1121 Old 11-17-2009, 06:57 AM
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Guys,

After three years of waiting and saving I finally purchased my first PJ yesterday from Jason at AVS with an OPPO BD83 player.

I chose the Mitsubishi HC6800. I read many reviews for months, saw a few PJ"s including SIM (out of my budget) , Sony VP-HW 60, PTAE 3000, Epson 7500 etc. and the top PJ pics for me consisted of PTAE 4000, Epson 8500UB, Sony HW15 and Mitsubishi 6800. I chose the HC6800 which best fits my needs and the Mitsubishi HC6800 is solid in many areas.

Question:

1) What is the best way to test Convergence and dead pixels on this PJ? I just didnt have enough fund to have Jason do a calibration for me.

2) I believe the recommended setting for this PJ as far as lens placement would be to have lens in Parallell to the top edge of the screen. Does this sound correct as I want to start placing my PJ when it arrives. I plan on doing a 2:37 anamorphic screen and use the zoom method and now and then switch to 16:9. I saw CT wiebes post on settings for this. The screen will be approx 110" from 15 feet with a 1.3 gain Wilson Art DW laminate. Light controlled room

I would appreciate info on the best placement and testing PJ when it arrives to officially call it prime time ready.

Thanks
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