Official JVC RS25/HD950 Owners Thread! - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 1011 Old 04-20-2011, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruse View Post

I also have some trouble to understand the statement that the “Hide” button is the same like putting a hand in front of the lens. For me it seems more like an electronic hide where you just see the absolute black level of the projector, I don’t think it’s a mechanic hide because there is no sound and there is still coming some light out pro the projector.

Yes.....this ^^^ It is like the black floor the projector is capable of and light can still be seen looking into the lens.
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post #812 of 1011 Old 04-21-2011, 08:59 PM
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I need to ship my RS20 and don't have a box. I do have the foam inserts, though. Can someone measure their box for me and post the dimensions? I want to pick one up or have one made. Thank you!
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post #813 of 1011 Old 04-21-2011, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
I need to ship my RS20 and don't have a box. I do have the foam inserts, though. Can someone measure their box for me and post the dimensions? I want to pick one up or have one made. Thank you!
You will probably be best served by putting the foam on the projector and measuring the foam L, W, H

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post #814 of 1011 Old 04-21-2011, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techman707 View Post
I believe I may have found an Osram cross for the BHL-5010S. As for an LED substitute, you're right, it could never match a UHP bulb spectrally, just like the UHP couldn't really match a xenon's spectral characteristics.

The main problems in an LED swap would probably be things like disabling the high voltage striking circuit and matching the existing supply, unless some manufacturer takes care of it.
It shouldn't be all that difficult to disable the starter and ballast for the UHP bulb and build a power suply for the LED. The big thing for me would be the lumens and possibly cooling

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post #815 of 1011 Old 04-21-2011, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post
You will probably be best served by putting the foam on the projector and measuring the foam L, W, H
Yah... thanks... I was hoping to not take it off the shelf until the last possible moment. But you are right. That's probably best.
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post #816 of 1011 Old 04-22-2011, 06:22 AM
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How about somebody out there with an RS20 and a readily accessible box measure it for him?

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post #817 of 1011 Old 04-22-2011, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post

I need to ship my RS20 and don't have a box. I do have the foam inserts, though. Can someone measure their box for me and post the dimensions? I want to pick one up or have one made. Thank you!

The box for my RS25 is 24" by 21" by 14" high (actually 13 3/4) - probably the same size.

Mike
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post #818 of 1011 Old 04-22-2011, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

How about somebody out there with an RS20 and a readily accessible box measure it for him?

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post #819 of 1011 Old 04-22-2011, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeWojcik View Post

The box for my RS25 is 24" by 21" by 14" high (actually 13 3/4) - probably the same size.

Mike

I'm sure it is... same chassis. Thanks!
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post #820 of 1011 Old 04-28-2011, 10:56 AM
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Although I've displayed the results of Tom Huffman's calibration of my RS25 (bulb at 200hrs) elsewhere, I though it would be good to report in this thread. What with all the drama surrounding the lumen issue with the current JVC 3D models, I want to say that my RS25 puts out plenty light, even though I have a gray .80 Da-Mat screen.

The numbers and charts tell the story - an amazing transformation from a decent out-of-the-box picture to near perfection:







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post #821 of 1011 Old 04-29-2011, 10:53 AM
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Very nice. Thanks for posting. These machines really do tweak up nicely.

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post #822 of 1011 Old 04-29-2011, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

Very nice. Thanks for posting. These machines really do tweak up nicely.

I love my RS25.
BTW, this thread is barely alive, while the RS20 thread is going strong after all these years.

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post #823 of 1011 Old 04-29-2011, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Mike Ferrara View Post

I love my RS25.
BTW, this thread is barely alive, while the RS20 thread is going strong after all these years.

The reason that there aren't as many posts in this thread is because most owners of the RS25/35 projectors are too busy watching them.

I like my RS35 so much that I started to replace many of my regular DVD's with Blu-rays, which I said I wasn't going to do. The RS35 looks dynamite with a good quality Blu-ray. I also run (or use to run) 16 & 35mm and friends of mine in the business actually like the Blu-ray when compared to 35mm in a side by side test. However, in a few cases involving some older pictures that I like, some companies put out some Blu-rays that look as though they just took the original DVD transfer and just put it on Blu-ray (which they probably did). In other cases, the HD masters they used must have been made before some of the latest scanners were available and used those to make their Blu-ray. Naturally, the latest Blu-rays were probably made right from the negative, which is why they're the best.

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post #824 of 1011 Old 04-29-2011, 12:36 PM
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Techman: Yes, I feel that the RS25/35 projectors are the top of the game for 2D projection. And the top BR releases this past year: Star Trek (relaunch), Avatar (Extended); Alice in Wonderland; Inception; Salt - all are simply awesome.

Question: are you running your RS35 at the 200w level?

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post #825 of 1011 Old 05-01-2011, 02:39 PM
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And, here are the TH calibrated menu settings:



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post #826 of 1011 Old 05-01-2011, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Mike Ferrara View Post

Techman: Yes, I feel that the RS25/35 projectors are the top of the game for 2D projection. And the top BR releases this past year: Star Trek (relaunch), Avatar (Extended); Alice in Wonderland; Inception; Salt - all are simply awesome.

Question: are you running your RS35 at the 200w level?

Yes, I always run in the "Normal" mode.

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post #827 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techman707 View Post

Yes, I always run in the "Normal" mode.

Correct me if I'm wrong:
Normal: 150w
High: 200w
BTW, the bulb is rated for 200w. That's what I'm using now.

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post #828 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Mike Ferrara View Post

And, here are the TH calibrated menu settings:



Interesting to see contrast set so high. Are you using "expanded" (computer scale) range on the source or projector?

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post #829 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Mike Ferrara View Post

Correct me if I'm wrong:
Normal: 150w
High: 200w
BTW, the bulb is rated for 200w. That's what I'm using now.

Where did you see the specs that say: Normal 150w & High 200w ? You could be right. I thought I read that they used the designation "NORMAL" and that was on the rated bulb wattage and that on "HIGH" they were running it above the bulb wattage rating.

I assumed that's why people that were running on "HIGH" (on these later JVC units) were getting such poor lamp hours.

It's a funny that on an earlier model JVC D'ILA's that used a xenon bulbs, JVC rated them at 1000 hours and the manufacturer rated it at 2000 hours, but, you can actually get around 3000 hours....and it still runs strong. However, just like on the xenon bulbs, the UHP bulb's life is also dependent on the number of "strikes" (on/off cycles).

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post #830 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

Interesting to see contrast set so high. Are you using "expanded" (computer scale) range on the source or projector?

Tom set the RS25 on expanded, but all source is set to video. My whole HDMI chain, from Oppo 93 > Denon > Lumagen > RS25 is RPG because the Lumagen has DVI connections. As long as BR is at 8bit color, there is no reason to update the Lumagen.

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post #831 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techman707 View Post

Where did you see the specs that say: Normal 150w & High 200w ? You could be right. I thought I read that they used the designation "NORMAL" and that was on the rated bulb wattage and that on "HIGH" they were running it above the bulb wattage rating.

I assumed that's why people that were running on "HIGH" (on these later JVC units) were getting such poor lamp hours.

It's a funny that on an earlier model JVC D'ILA's that used a xenon bulbs, JVC rated them at 1000 hours and the manufacturer rated it at 2000 hours, but, you can actually get around 3000 hours....and it still runs strong. However, just like on the xenon bulbs, the UHP bulb's life is also dependent on the number of "strikes" (on/off cycles).

From the user manual:
LL

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post #832 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Mike Ferrara View Post
From the user manual:
You sure are right.

P.S. I haven't looked at the lamp enclosure on my RS35, but, if the bulb can be rotated 180 degrees after half it's (rated) life, it should increase the usable hours. While I haven't seen the problem first hand, some RS owners report flickering. Some say they ran the bulb on "High" until the flickering went away. The flickering is caused by uneven wear of the anode and cathode of the bulb. When the bulb is operated in a particular position for a long time, a wear/pitting pattern forms that causes the gas ball to waiver or flicker. By rotating the bulb 180 degrees, it can increase its usable life.

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post #833 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 12:15 PM
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707: I'd recommend folks to run the bulb at it's rated output. I know when Tom did the initial calibration, I had it set to Normal, and he was concerned that the image was dark. I guess I had gotten use to it, but after he re-calibrated at the High setting, the picture improvement was significant - with an added sense of depth (who needs 3D).

If I burn through more bulbs, so be it. Bring on the brightness.

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post #834 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Mike Ferrara View Post

707: I'd recommend folks to run the bulb at it's rated output. I know when Tom did the initial calibration, I had it set to Normal, and he was concerned that the image was dark. I guess I had gotten use to it, but after he re-calibrated at the High setting, the picture improvement was significant - with an added sense of depth (who needs 3D).

If I burn through more bulbs, so be it. Bring on the brightness.


If your screen size warrants running on high then high is what you need. Some people did post that after the initial break-in the output dropped nearly 50%, from what I recall. If you're having the projector calibrated, then you MUST decide at that time whether you're going to (or need to) run on HIGH, since once it's calibrated the color temp and other settings will be different (unless you were to calibrate it in NORMAL & HIGH.

The THX calibration on my RS35 must have been done in the NORMAL position, which I now find strange since in NORMAL the bulb is being undervolted for the calibration they did. So much for THX.

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post #835 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techman707 View Post

The reason that there aren't as many posts in this thread is because most owners of the RS25/35 projectors are too busy watching them.
.

lot of truth in that- I can't tell you how much enjoyment we have gotten out of the RS25 - such fantastic image - approaching 2000 hours and that is all
movies -don't even have cable in the house

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post #836 of 1011 Old 05-02-2011, 07:25 PM
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lot of truth in that- I can't tell you how much enjoyment we have gotten out of the RS25 - such fantastic image - approaching 2000 hours and that is all
movies -don't even have cable in the house

These have turned out to be a trouble free design.....for the most part....not including the guy who most likely had a defective RS25 and said he wanted to (or was) use it commercially.

As for JVC's new 3D models, I haven't seen one in person (since I know longer do any more service work since becoming ill a couple of years ago), but they look physically as though they went BACK to an older enclosure design. I wonder how they'll stand-up?

BTW- Since you have nearly 2K hours on the bulb, would you be able to tell us whether you run in "NORMAL" or "HIGH" mode and if you know, how much of a drop in Foot Lamberts on the screen since new?

Thanks and continued good movie watching!

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post #837 of 1011 Old 05-03-2011, 09:06 AM
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I would like to measure just for curious sake
What would a meter cost or better yet link me or PM
me something easy to use
have been using THX mode from start -
I use normal on 1:85 films and high on (2:35)
Zoomed out on 125 scope screen- no gain

I have cleaned my Prism a few times -
First time at 500hrs was massive difference
I had actually bought a new bulb but was unneeded after cleaning
My room probably is biggest facture compared to most others
in regards to light output
Its completely dedicated -
Zero ambient light -I have black velvet - walls, ceiling/floors
covering the room - so basically a black void
Image just floats in the air - cool to see

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post #838 of 1011 Old 05-03-2011, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPBURNS View Post

I would like to measure just for curious sake
What would a meter cost or better yet link me or PM
me something easy to use
have been using THX mode from start -
I use normal on 1:85 films and high on (2:35)
Zoomed out on 125 scope screen- no gain

I have cleaned my Prism a few times -
First time at 500hrs was massive difference
I had actually bought a new bulb but was unneeded after cleaning
My room probably is biggest facture compared to most others
in regards to light output
Its completely dedicated -
Zero ambient light -I have black velvet - walls, ceiling/floors
covering the room - so basically a black void
Image just floats in the air - cool to see


I use a Minolta LS100 to measure Foot Lamberts. I bought it a number of years ago and at that time it was about $2300. It's still a current model being made by Konica/Minolta, but the price has gone up since I bought mine. If you do a search on the web, I saw only once place selling it and their "sale price" was $3504. http://www.tequipment.net/MinoltaLS100.asp

Don't confuse the LS100 with those toy camera light meters. If you try anything else you won't be getting an accurate reading so you're better off doing nothing then getting a reading that will just confuse you. The only reason I bought it was that I had an old Panavision meter that stopped working and I had to have one for my work in theatres and I needed an accurate meter for THX's "TAP" (Theatre Alignment Program).

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post #839 of 1011 Old 05-03-2011, 05:56 PM
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thanks - they are pricey for my needs - but not so much if tools of your trade

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post #840 of 1011 Old 05-08-2011, 05:54 AM
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I have some specific questions about the settings of my HDI Dune Smart B1 (lastest firmware) network player. For your information: I m running my Dune with a JVC RS25 projector.

Video settings:

1. Video Mode:
what do I have to choose here? Do I have to choose Auto or the highest my display can? (so in my case, jvc RS20 this would be 1080p60).

2. Aspect Ratio:
Auto or 16:9?

Framerate:
Auto or 24/50/60?

HDMI Color Depth:

Auto, 8,10 or 12?

HDMI CEC:
Disable or Enable?

Force DVI Output:
Yes or No?

Output Colorspace:
Auto, BT.609, BT.709, RGB-Full or RGB-Limited?

Default Decoder Colorspace:

Auto, BT.601 or BT.709?


Audio Settings:


Dynamic Range Control:
Off, Medium, High or Auto?

Volume Control:

Off, Best Quality or Allow Overload?


General Settings:


Fast Disc Access:
Disable or Enable?

Fast SMB Access:
Disable or Enable?

Blu-Ray Playback Improvements:
Disable or Enable?

Blu-Ray Bitstream Improvements:
Disable or Enable?

I know it s will be some work but is it possible that for the ones that know exactly what all settings DO that you guys give a further explanation of the specific settings I ask about?

Thanks for all help and input!

Greetings.
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