Please post experience of JVC HD750/350/550/950 bulb lifetime / lamp brightness drop - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 738 Old 05-23-2010, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by rbs-LG View Post

if you are looking for lamps, so you should try this website.
http://www.projectorlampsworld.com/

Not cool to post other retailer's sites here. Also, they don't even list any of the current models, so really, no harm done. Yes... I was curious and looked.
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post #182 of 738 Old 05-24-2010, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by erkq View Post

Not cool to post other retailer's sites here. Also, they don't even list any of the current models, so really, no harm done. Yes... I was curious and looked.

actually we have been talking about alternative bulb sources and re-lamping for years, it is cool. No need to pay MSRP.

JEFF PARKINSON


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post #183 of 738 Old 05-24-2010, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

actually we have been talking about alternative bulb sources and re-lamping for years, it is cool. No need to pay MSRP.

Yeah, you're right. Sorry. Knee-jerk reaction on my part.
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post #184 of 738 Old 06-12-2010, 11:56 AM
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Not being a professional calibrator (or having easy access to one where I live), I'm concerned about the color temp issue I read about.

My lamp has 1400 hours on it, having last been calibrated at 700 hours, and I'm just starting to notice some dimming issues. From what you've observed after performing the prism cleaning, am I better off living with the image as it is vs. risking throwing off the color temp (or anything else) to a distracting degree? Or, in theory, would the cleaning perhaps return the image closer to where it was 700 hours ago when it was calibrated?

If you recommend the cleaning, are the color temp or other adjustments something I could do by eye, not having access to equipment?
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post #185 of 738 Old 06-12-2010, 03:54 PM
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Cleaning the prism mostly impacts brightness, not color balance per se.

So if I was you I'd clean it.

---------

Color temp is a separate topic and yes adjusting it correctly requires measuring tools.

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post #186 of 738 Old 06-13-2010, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

Cleaning the prism mostly impacts brightness, not color balance per se.

So if I was you I'd clean it.

+1

Also after 700 hours the calibration has probably drifted a fair bit anyway.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #187 of 738 Old 06-13-2010, 03:41 AM
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If I was you, I`d move to the Bronx. If I were you, I would stay put and clean the prism. Cleaning the prism is an absolute no brainer, all pluses, no minuses.

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post #188 of 738 Old 06-13-2010, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

If I was you, I`d move to the Bronx. If I were you, I would stay put and clean the prism. Cleaning the prism is an absolute no brainer, all pluses, no minuses.

That's funny. I don't do the grammar police thing much... I mean, what's the point? Really. This isn't school here. But that was funny.
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post #189 of 738 Old 06-13-2010, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

If I was you, I`d move to the Bronx. If I were you, I would stay put and clean the prism. Cleaning the prism is an absolute no brainer, all pluses, no minuses.

What be wrong with da bronx?

Lee

 


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post #190 of 738 Old 06-14-2010, 05:46 AM
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nothing. thats why mark's suggesting to move there!

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post #191 of 738 Old 06-16-2010, 12:21 PM
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Greetings,

Just wanted to express my thanks to those who pointed out the prism cleaning tweak. It made a discernible difference..


Regards,

Ralph C. Potts
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post #192 of 738 Old 06-16-2010, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Ralph Potts View Post

Greetings,

Just wanted to express my thanks to those who pointed out the prism cleaning tweak. It made a discernible difference..


Regards,

Though I don't he was the one who originally discovered this trick, I believe lovingdvd did a great service in beating the drum for it; e.g., see post #61 in this thread. His reports were certainly what motivated me to try it, and with a dramatic improvement.
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post #193 of 738 Old 06-16-2010, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

Though I don't he was the one who originally discovered this trick, I believe lovingdvd did a great service in beating the drum for it; e.g., see post #61 in this thread. His reports were certainly what motivated me to try it, and with a dramatic improvement.

Correct - credit for the discovery goes elsewhere for sure. Like you mentioned though, I was really surprised to find such a dramatic difference and how no one seemed too excited about it. I still think this is mostly under the radar. But nonetheless the data is out there for those searching for it.

I've probably put only about 100 hours on the bulb since I performed this cleaning. That's probably too soon to tell if it'll benefit from another cleaning. Maybe others will chime in after they have several hundred more hours on to let us know if this is more of a one time thing (I suspect it is) or something we can get benefit from repeatedly.
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post #194 of 738 Old 06-16-2010, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Correct - credit for the discovery goes elsewhere for sure. Like you mentioned though, I was really surprised to find such a dramatic difference and how no one seemed too excited about it. I still think this is mostly under the radar. But nonetheless the data is out there for those searching for it.

I've probably put only about 100 hours on the bulb since I performed this cleaning. That's probably too soon to tell if it'll benefit from another cleaning. Maybe others will chime in after they have several hundred more hours on to let us know if this is more of a one time thing (I suspect it is) or something we can get benefit from repeatedly.


Greetings,

Thanks just the same lovingdvd.

Cheers,

Ralph C. Potts
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post #195 of 738 Old 06-17-2010, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riwi View Post

I cleaned my HD350 prism and the glass surface on the lamp itself too.
I used a cotton tip with some pure alcohol and finished both surfaces off with a Hama lens cleaning pen that I also use for my photocamera lenses.

On the lamp itself the glass was visibly dirty. On the prism itself I could not see very well if there was any residue.
I have about 1200 hours on the lamp and was already thinking of replacing it. Now after the cleaning I think it will be good for another 200-300 hours Not only a noticable increase in light output but also I think there is a gain in sharpness.

I am very happy with this excellent trick


Lenspen works perfect for this
Was like thin film was on prism - was evenly spread so almost unnoticeable at first
After applying a bit of pressure I could notice with strong pen light the area I cleaned
Took few minutes thoroughly cleaning prism - awesome tweak
Noticeable brightness increase and sharpness also improved
I just purchased a new bulb but now not going to switch out for awhile

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post #196 of 738 Old 06-17-2010, 10:18 PM
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Since you already bought it you may want to throw the new bulb in at least for a few weeks. The warranty will expire and it's best to know whether you have a lemon now rather than six months from now when you'd have no recourse.

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post #197 of 738 Old 06-20-2010, 02:00 PM
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At CES 2010 one of the reps at JVC mentioned you need a constant wall AC voltage to the PJ if you want your bulb to last. Where not talking about Richard Gray style power condioners/filters that remove dirty AC but maintaining the AC at a constant voltage level at all times indefinitely.
He mentioned you can shave off 40 to 50% bulb life due to small changes in level.
Has this been discussed before as I haven,t read all the posts?

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post #198 of 738 Old 06-20-2010, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AVWERKS View Post

At CES 2010 one of the reps at JVC mentioned you need a constant wall AC voltage to the PJ if you want your bulb to last. Where not talking about Richard Gray style power condioners/filters that remove dirty AC but maintaining the AC at a constant voltage level at all times indefinitely.
He mentioned you can shave off 40 to 50% bulb life due to small changes in level.
Has this been discussed before as I haven,t read all the posts?

Regards
David

Is there a reasonably priced piece of equipment that can maintain the AC at a constant voltage at all times like was recommended?
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post #199 of 738 Old 06-20-2010, 11:20 PM
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Some of the belkin pure av ups units can do that if you consider 200 bucks "reasonable".

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post #200 of 738 Old 06-20-2010, 11:38 PM
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I believe any line interactive UPS can do it. Paid 140 euros for mine which has just enough capacity to handle my JVC and PVR. I have to say I am surprised to hear that it would actually be beneficial to the lamp life.
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post #201 of 738 Old 06-22-2010, 02:00 PM
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Maybe I''m confused but isn't constant AC voltage an oxymoron -- alternating current voltage changes continuously, indefinitely. Did they mean stable waveform?

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post #202 of 738 Old 06-22-2010, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
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Maybe I''m confused but isn't constant AC voltage an oxymoron -- alternating current voltage changes continuously, indefinitely. Did they mean stable waveform?

Yes. Consistent in it's pattern. That is what they mean.
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post #203 of 738 Old 06-23-2010, 09:10 PM
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From watching my UPS status on the PC it appears my voltage fluctuates between about 118-121 volts. I imagine my RS20 is also seeing this fluctuation. Not sure if that causes an issue. This could account I suppose for the slight differences I see when measuring during a calibration session.

I looked into the interactive UPS's that was suggested above. At least the one I looked at is designed to keep the power between 110 and 120v. That seems like an awfully large range so I'm not sure it would help. Unless keeping it from going over 120 (in my case I do see 121 from time to time) would be beneficial?
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post #204 of 738 Old 06-24-2010, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

I looked into the interactive UPS's that was suggested above. At least the one I looked at is designed to keep the power between 110 and 120v. That seems like an awfully large range so I'm not sure it would help. Unless keeping it from going over 120 (in my case I do see 121 from time to time) would be beneficial?

Next step from line-interactive would be online UPS, but they are pretty expensive. EDIT: for example one costing 530 euros advertises +-3% voltage. I guess we need more than hearsay to know about the relation to lamp longevity.
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post #205 of 738 Old 06-24-2010, 03:06 PM
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Reprinted below is some safety related and manufacturers (Philips) operating instructions for UHP type projection lamps. The article contains information regarding the deleterious effects of bulb operation under unstable AC power supply voltage conditions:


HAZARDS OF AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR UHP LAMPS


Projector lamps have numerous hazards. They do not make good toys.


The arc light is about as intense as a welding arc or a carbon arc. One should not look directly at the arc. If your eyes are already adapted to bright light, you may get away with looking at the arc for up to a few seconds with no permanent eye damage - but doing this is NOT a good idea. You won't hurt your eyes looking at the arc through #12 welding glass - but there are other hazards. All projectors have a series of filters installed between the light patch to ensure an efficient block of UV radiation. Filters made for looking directly at the sun will also make the arc safe to look at directly. Most other dark transparent materials will not protect your eyes since they let through enough infrared to risk cooking spots on your retina - an eye damage phenomenon notoriously lacking warning signs.

The arc emits almost every kind of ultraviolet in the book, including large amounts of UV-A, UV-B, and some UV-C. These different ultraviolet bands are bad for different parts of your eyes. Number 12 welding glass and sun-viewing filters will protect your eyes. However, the UVC, UVB, and the shortest UVA wavelengths can sunburn your skin. Serious sunburn and increased risk of skin cancer may result from significant exposure to this radiation. These wavelengths are blocked by ordinary glass, but for other reasons below it is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to only operate UHP lamps in fixtures designed and made for them by qualified personnel - typically engineers and technicians who work for the fixture manufacturers.

The shortest ultraviolet wavelengths emitted by UHP lamps can generate ozone. Operate the lamps in an adequately ventilated area. If you can smell the ozone, it can noticeably irritate your lungs within hours.

UHP Projector Lamps operate at red-hot temperatures of up to 900, sometimes even 1050 degrees C (approx. 1650-1900 degrees F) and contain very high pressure usually in excess of 160 atmospheres and often near or over 200 atmospheres, and in a few cases 300-plus atmospheres. They can explode. Rarely, but who knows how rarely, they explode when nothing can be detected as wrong. If operated in any way other than as specified or past their intended life expectancy, the risk of explosion increases. Explosions can be dangerous since they can result in red-hot (or hotter) pieces of glasslike quartz being shot out in all directions, possibly with considerable force. These lamps should only be operated in fixtures made for these lamps and designed to contain a lamp explosion. These lamps contain mercury, so you might not want one to explode in your home even if there was no risk of fire or red-hot glass shrapnel.

UHP Projector lamps require forced air cooling. This is another reason to operate them only in fixtures designed for the particular lamp being operated.

UHP lamps have pressure well above 30-50 atmospheres even when they are cold. You don't want to drop one and have it break......... think of a hand-grenade!

UHP Projector lamps have quartz bulbs operated under stress at high temperature. The usual halogen lamp rules for bulb cleanliness apply. Carbon and oil deposits can absorb light and make hot spots. Traces of any sort of ash, salts, metal oxides, or alkalis can leach into hot quartz and cause strains which can weaken the quartz.



You should not touch the bulb. If you touch the bulb, you can clean it with alcohol so that no skin oil traces are left on the bulb. It may also be a good idea to rinse the bulb with distilled water.

Do not operate a UHP lamp that has been scratched or chipped.

UHP Projector lamps should be operated only at the wattage they were designed for and with the type of current they were designed for. Overpowering them is obviously bad. Underpowering an UHP lamp can also be bad, since a slightly-too-cool electrode does not emit electrons easily, and the voltage drop in the cathode region of the arc increases and causes positive ions to hit the cathode harder, which "sputters" off cathode material. This will discolor the bulb and may cause the bulb to overheat or have an abnormal temperature gradient somewhere and could make the bulb explode. Discolored bulbs as well as abused electrodes can really overheat if operated at full power.
UHP Projector lamps are designed for AC, and typically have two identical main electrodes. Operating an AC lamp on DC will overheat and/or excessively age at least one electrode. Aging electrodes have limits in the peak rate at which they can emit electrons without overheating or sputtering, and peak current has to be minimized. Excessive peak current may accelerate aging of electrodes that are in good shape.

UHP Projector lamps may have to be operated in a specific position so that convection currents - internal and external - don't cause vulnerable parts of the lamp to overheat. This is another reason to use them only as directed in proper fixtures designed specifically for the lamp being used. Follow all directions that come with the lamp and all directions that come with the fixture.

With all this trouble and the high cost of UHP Projector lamps, it is no wonder why they are only used where there is no substitute for a small, very intense light. UHP lamps are not good toys for casual experimenters.


OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS:



Manufacturer guidelines

Do not touch or handle this lamp without wearing glove.

If this lamp touched by bare hands, the lamp must be cleaned with towel and alcohol solution.

Do not touch a lightened lamp or a lamp immediately after off-operation; High heat may cause sever damage.

The lamp generates UV radiation, do not look directly into the light; Avoid directly exposing skin to the light.

The lamp may only operates properly in an approved and appropriately operated projector.

Fast on-off switching may cause short lamp life.

For lamp replacement, the power must be switched off when operating in equipment.

Safety protection is needed for the lamp area because of high ignition pulses.

Surrounding temperature should be less than 55 C

Operating voltage : The average operating voltage should deviate from the rayed voltage indicated on the type plate by no more than 3%
Sudden voltage deviations of more than +/- 10% may cause the lamp to go out.
Permanent operation at a voltage above or below the rated supply voltage may lead to changes in the light color and a reduction in the life of the lamp.

The lamp take about 2-5minutes after being switched on to reach its full luminous flux.

Color variations : As with all metal halide lamps, there may be difference in color from lamp to lamp. This may be due to external factors such as mains voltage, control gear and luminaries design.


When a lamp comes to the end of its life it must be replaced as soon as possible to prevent damage to the control gear and radio interference.


These lamps can be considered to have come to the end of their service life if:

the light color of the lamp changes dramatically or-

there is an appreciable loss of brightness or

the lamp periodically goes out and restarts or

the lamp no longer ignites

Sometimes a UHP lamp end it's life with a explosion or a big pop.



Also in general:

The high pressure lamps require an incrementally higher start voltage at each start. At the end of life the lamp might still be capable of firing, but requires more voltage than the ballast can provide. It explains the cases when a set would not start for several days, then it starts the first time but maybe not again until the lamp is replaced.

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post #206 of 738 Old 06-24-2010, 04:31 PM
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Thanks, very interesting.

I'd like to see the mfg setup they use to pressurize and seal those.

Noah
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post #207 of 738 Old 06-24-2010, 06:45 PM
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Thanks Jedi

Something along the lines of a PS audio power regenerator would work well but very expensively.

With all the high current computer SWPSupply's and other electronic gadjets infecting the grid compared to 25 years, is it no wonder your audio and video components sound and look better after midnight ? (when people have shut down most toys)
Stands to reason that a stable voltage could increase the life of your projector and bulb.

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David

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post #208 of 738 Old 06-24-2010, 11:12 PM
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I wonder if voltage fluctuations explain cracked housings like a couple of us have seen.
I guess I won't known because I have my rs20 on a battery backup av power regulator.

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post #209 of 738 Old 06-25-2010, 12:51 AM
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Interesting quote about UHP lamps, thanks. I wonder what kind of voltage regulation capabilities are built into JVC projectors?
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post #210 of 738 Old 06-25-2010, 09:27 AM
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...it's possible that some of the JVC bulbs with cracked lens being reported here and elsewhere in the forum may be due to a hand or fingerprint from someone having touched the glass surface during unpackaging or installation. Due to the UV radiation hazards and the like, sounds like these cracked lens should be tossed.

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