The Ultimate 3D projection system: A Practical Discussion Thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 2269 Old 03-08-2011, 04:47 PM
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I got a 6x12 roll of Stagelite Stereo today in the mail... With two BenQ W6000's pushing about 1700 lumens (rated at 2500) how big would yall recommend me building the screen, I'm looking to go as big as possible without the image being too dim in 3D (the screen gain is 2.1)
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post #452 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 02:40 AM
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Been busy recently so not much time to post at the moment (but will reply to the posts from my earlier question later- and I also have some information to share which I think will be useful).

A couple of quick things though.

Firstly on screens:

Harkness mentioned to me the Stagelight stereo is their screen for events and in their own words for "when the screen is not neccassarily the star of the show". the Harkness spectral 240 is still intended to be their premier product.

rdjam- Did SI mention to you when they expect to release the follow up to the BD II that works properly with passive 3d?


Secondly on optics.

I can see that you for linearly polarised light you can use a quarter wave plate to alter the relative phases of the components of the light by a quarter wave to get circularly polarised light.
And also use a half wave plate to rotate linearly polarised light by 90degrees.
(And anything in between to get elliptical polarised light).

However I'm not sure how you rotate linear polarised light by 45 degrees (without light loss).
rdjam I think you needed to do this to convert the 0 degree horizontally polarised jvc x3 to 45 degree and 135 degree.

ie
0degree + X? ---> 45 degree
0degree + X? + lambda/2 plate -----> 135 degree.

Thanks.
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post #453 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 04:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by yunti View Post

Been busy recently so not much time to post at the moment (but will reply to the posts from my earlier question later- and I also have some information to share which I think will be useful).

A couple of quick things though.

Firstly on screens:

Harkness mentioned to me the Stagelight stereo is their screen for events and in their own words for "when the screen is not neccassarily the star of the show". the Harkness spectral 240 is still intended to be their premier product.

rdjam- Did SI mention to you when they expect to release the follow up to the BD II that works properly with passive 3d?

Secondly on optics.

I can see that you for linearly polarised light you can use a quarter wave plate to alter the relative phases of the components of the light by a quarter wave to get circularly polarised light.
And also use a half wave plate to rotate linearly polarised light by 90degrees.
(And anything in between to get elliptical polarised light).

However I'm not sure how you rotate linear polarised light by 45 degrees (without light loss).
rdjam I think you needed to do this to convert the 0 degree horizontally polarised jvc x3 to 45 degree and 135 degree.

ie
0degree + X? ---> 45 degree
0degree + X? + lambda/2 plate -----> 135 degree.

Thanks.

I'm not the optics expert but it does work. The linear polarized light from the RS40 is rotated 90 degrees with almost no visible light loss. It's not a brute force approach, more Jui Jitsu, I guess would be the way to phrase it. One then places the regular circular polarizing filter in the path after the plate.

Once I have a new screen that is better at circular retention I will do more testing. I should have the BD 3D for testing in about 3 weeks.

I haven't done any work with "elliptical" polarization. It's much leas talked about and I have seen no commercial systems use it. I have seen reference to it in some material I studied for my system, but it appears to be even more sensitive to depolarization than circular.

Ahh... F1 in full HD 3D with
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post #454 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 08:11 AM
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I gotta say, this thread really had me excited in the beginning. However 31 pages later, it seems very few have made any progress, as well as the fact that this project is not even coming close to being practical with regards to these polarizing filters and which screen they will work with. Also the fact that Optoma is dragging their arses with the 3D-XL and the next best thing is dropping 3 grand on two Lumagen 3D minis. Not to mention that someone posted that some or these filters are in the $1000 range??? I guess one can argue that it is just a case of sour grapes for me and I suppose I expected too much from this project, but I need to point out that this project has the potential to be classed as the High End and only those members who post in the $20,000+ gear section have the dough to make a good go of this. Sorry for the negativity, just giving an obervation of the fact that maybe the thread title needs to be changed with regards to the word "Practical" being left out.
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post #455 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 01:29 PM
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Well this thread is about making the "ultimate" 3D display, costs are a secondary consideration.

If you want to go the cheap route, take two of the cheapest projectors you can find, take some ultra-cheap (less than 10$) polarising filters, suspend them as far from the projector as possible to avoid burning your filters, make a DIY screen with DIY metallic coating containing proper aluminium flakes, for a source, use an HTPC with one of the newest AMD Radeon graphics cards supporting Eyefinity and off you go.

I did my system for 4000€... 3/4 of the price were the projectors, and I took some pretty high quality filters and screen. Perfection has a price, and it's high. Just how much are you willing to spend for it ?

Passive 3D, forever !

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post #456 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by zaytser View Post
I gotta say, this thread really had me excited in the beginning. However 31 pages later, it seems very few have made any progress, as well as the fact that this project is not even coming close to being practical with regards to these polarizing filters and which screen they will work with. Also the fact that Optoma is dragging their arses with the 3D-XL and the next best thing is dropping 3 grand on two Lumagen 3D minis. Not to mention that someone posted that some or these filters are in the $1000 range??? I guess one can argue that it is just a case of sour grapes for me and I suppose I expected too much from this project, but I need to point out that this project has the potential to be classed as the High End and only those members who post in the $20,000+ gear section have the dough to make a good go of this. Sorry for the negativity, just giving an obervation of the fact that maybe the thread title needs to be changed with regards to the word "Practical" being left out.

- Two BenQ W6000 $3000
- HTPC $700
- Screen $1000
- Filters $600

If you add in some extra cost your looking at about $5500 for a decent setup, theres also supposed to be a product coming from the makers of the HDFury that I want to see some details on before ordering 3DXL's, I'll use the HTPC until then to test out some gaming
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post #457 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by zaytser View Post
I gotta say, this thread really had me excited in the beginning. However 31 pages later, it seems very few have made any progress, as well as the fact that this project is not even coming close to being practical with regards to these polarizing filters and which screen they will work with. Also the fact that Optoma is dragging their arses with the 3D-XL and the next best thing is dropping 3 grand on two Lumagen 3D minis. Not to mention that someone posted that some or these filters are in the $1000 range??? I guess one can argue that it is just a case of sour grapes for me and I suppose I expected too much from this project, but I need to point out that this project has the potential to be classed as the High End and only those members who post in the $20,000+ gear section have the dough to make a good go of this. Sorry for the negativity, just giving an obervation of the fact that maybe the thread title needs to be changed with regards to the word "Practical" being left out.
I am darn impressed with this thread and the progress made. Man, I took the cheapie cheap route.. DLP 720p@120hz and dlp link glasses. I am beyond happy with it though.
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post #458 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zaytser View Post

I gotta say, this thread really had me excited in the beginning. However 31 pages later, it seems very few have made any progress, as well as the fact that this project is not even coming close to being practical with regards to these polarizing filters and which screen they will work with. Also the fact that Optoma is dragging their arses with the 3D-XL and the next best thing is dropping 3 grand on two Lumagen 3D minis. Not to mention that someone posted that some or these filters are in the $1000 range??? I guess one can argue that it is just a case of sour grapes for me and I suppose I expected too much from this project, but I need to point out that this project has the potential to be classed as the High End and only those members who post in the $20,000+ gear section have the dough to make a good go of this. Sorry for the negativity, just giving an obervation of the fact that maybe the thread title needs to be changed with regards to the word "Practical" being left out.

Actually, excellent polarizing filters can be had for $25 for the pair from polarization.com, as are the waveguide plates to rotate the polarization - I just chose to go the Advisol route to save myself some effort.

And various less expensive projectors can be used, again I went the RS40 route because I surmised (correctly, as it turned out) that frame interpolation for each channel would improve the 3D experience).

But even my high end choice of equipment, including the 3DXLs, comes in at about half the price of the LG 3D projector and totally blows that away in every single performance measure you could think of. In fact it blows away every 3D experience I've had in a theater.

I do agree it's been difficult for some people to wait for the 3DXL units, but they are definitely worth the wait. At least they are now landing in people's hands..

Ahh... F1 in full HD 3D with
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Originally Posted by jmcguire525 View Post


- Two BenQ W6000 $3000
- HTPC $700
- Screen $1000
- Filters $600

If you add in some extra cost your looking at about $5500 for a decent setup, theres also supposed to be a product coming from the makers of the HDFury that I want to see some details on before ordering 3DXL's, I'll use the HTPC until then to test out some gaming

Where in rhe world does one buy two BenQ W6000 pj's for $3000? Also I want nothing to do with using a HTPC for 3D as I have no patience with regards to learning the software and various glitches I have read about. Also very few of the games I play are on PC, I curretly own both a PS3 and Xbox 360, for gaming. Lastly, a $1000 screen would be great if there was a consensus of what screen material will work for both 2D and 3D.
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post #460 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JOHNnDENVER View Post


I am darn impressed with this thread and the progress made. Man, I took the cheapie cheap route.. DLP 720p@120hz and dlp link glasses. I am beyond happy with it though.

Ummm, I am assuming you are usin an active 3D set up. I thought this thread was about using two pj's and going the passive 3D route. My apologies if I mis understood you set up and there is something abut DLP link I do not know about.
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post #461 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 07:11 PM
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Actually, excellent polarizing filters can be had for $25 for the pair from polarization.com, as are the waveguide plates to rotate the polarization - I just chose to go the Advisol route to save myself some effort.

And various less expensive projectors can be used, again I went the RS40 route because I surmised (correctly, as it turned out) that frame interpolation for each channel would improve the 3D experience).

But even my high end choice of equipment, including the 3DXLs, comes in at about half the price of the LG 3D projector and totally blows that away in every single performance measure you could think of. In fact it blows away every 3D experience I've had in a theater.

I do agree it's been difficult for some people to wait for the 3DXL units, but they are definitely worth the wait. At least they are now landing in people's hands..

Here is the deal. I would like a 1080p set up, but the pj's I can afford for that set up are barely any better than my Optoma HD65. However, that is not my gripe, it is the fact that it seems you are having serious issues with these lenses, especially circular. I have lost count at how many you have tried as well as the screen sample you have tried. Also you haven't found a suitable screen for both 2D and 3D, but when you do, I fear that it will cost the price of a Decent Condo in Phoenix lol. I have seriously thought about just buying another optoma hd65 like I currently own as this pj is able to accept 1080p at 24 fps, however the 3D-XL's won't be available to me at best 3 months time. The biggest issue, is that I am still stuck with 720p and poor contrast, so what would be the point.

I guess I just got so excited about DIY 3D project that I really didn't realize the costs of experimentation will add up so quickly and availabiltiy of the components didn't cross my mind until I started to research everything in more detail. In your descriptions this 3D system is very simple on paper, but not so simple at implementing, when having to order different filters, screen materials, all the while hoping that there will be a match between those two pieces of the puzzle with the two of dozens and dozens of projectrors one decides to use.

Anyways I will read the thread from time to time, and perhaps in time when someone has posted their DLP set up and the components used, I will be able to afford something similar to their set up. I just wanted to point out to new commers to the thread that this project if taken seriously will take a lot of time, trial & error and most likely a small fortune, and not at all practical. I would say practical would be one 3D ready projector with a 3D video processor and some active glasses, or if one can spare the extra change for a JVC RS40. No offense intended and I hope I didn't ruffle any feathers as that is not my intention.
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post #462 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackShark View Post

Well this thread is about making the "ultimate" 3D display, costs are a secondary consideration.

If you want to go the cheap route, take two of the cheapest projectors you can find, take some ultra-cheap (less than 10$) polarising filters, suspend them as far from the projector as possible to avoid burning your filters, make a DIY screen with DIY metallic coating containing proper aluminium flakes, for a source, use an HTPC with one of the newest AMD Radeon graphics cards supporting Eyefinity and off you go.

I did my system for 4000EUR... 3/4 of the price were the projectors, and I took some pretty high quality filters and screen. Perfection has a price, and it's high. Just how much are you willing to spend for it ?

I can't afford to spend the kind of money to do this system properly. I can afford cheapo 720p dlp or 1080p projectors, but as far as I am concerned it is just a waist of time, as their is barely any difference between the two and the black level will surely be poor compared to what they could be. However like I have mentioned before, the cost of experimentation with various products is the killer for me. I do not have the time or the patience, and when I first read through RDjams first couple of posts, I didn't really pay close attention to the fact that there really isn't a one size fits all system and although his seems to be working out pretty well, I can't even justify buying one of his projectors lol. I will have to wait until a few more people post their set ups that may be in my realm of price and preference.
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post #463 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
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No worries - no feathers ruffled!

I do understand exactly what you mean though. I have meandered back and forth in my thought processes over several pages, and have not posted some very conclusive results and findings that say "here it is - this is what works".

I totally intended the thread to give some of those conclusions, so others could follow confidently, knowing it was a working solution.

I think over the next week I'll try to re-format the opening posts on the first page so that they are much more conclusive, especially when it comes to testing the various lenses and waveguide materials that I got, as well as the screen materials and costs.

So don't feel bad about saying anything, as it reminded me that I need to clarify what I've been through and where I'm at right now.

I've been enjoying linear 3D with these pjs, on a regular BD screen, while waiting for the better BD3D to test, before making my final choice in screen. So while there is more to test whenever I get a new screen, there is plenty that I can summarize right now, so that other people don't feel they still need to wait.

Ahh... F1 in full HD 3D with
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post #464 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 07:30 PM
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No worries - no feathers ruffled!

I do understand exactly what you mean though. I have meandered back and forth in my thought processes over several pages, and have not posted some very conclusive results and findings that say "here it is - this is what works".

I totally intended the thread to give some of those conclusions, so others could follow confidently, knowing it was a working solution.

I think over the next week I'll try to re-format the opening posts on the first page so that they are much more conclusive, especially when it comes to testing the various lenses and waveguide materials that I got, as well as the screen materials and costs.

So don't feel bad about saying anything, as it reminded me that I need to clarify what I've been through and where I'm at right now.

I've been enjoying linear 3D with these pjs, on a regular BD screen, while waiting for the better BD3D to test, before making my final choice in screen. So while there is more to test whenever I get a new screen, there is plenty that I can summarize right now, so that other people don't feel they still need to wait.

Have you thought about just implementing two different screen materials? Or are you dead set on having one fixed screen material. I just figured that if you can afford it, then maybe two different screens would be best for you, rather than sacrificing picture quality for one solution. However I have no idea how one would use two screens other than having a motorized pulldown set up???
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post #465 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 07:43 PM
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I agree with much of what zaytser is saying. This needs to become easier quickly. Money isn't as big of a hurdle as time needed to tweek, perfect, or just make usable. This needs to change. There are many of you that have a passion and enjoy the challenge of overcoming problems with your 3D system. You are to be commended for your diligence and sharing of your actions and results. The format will die if this becomes a necessity for people to go 3D. We all have a stake in this becoming cheaper, easier, and much much more friendlier for the general public to get on board. This will open the gates to content, content, and more content!

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post #466 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 07:56 PM
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Where in rhe world does one buy two BenQ W6000 pj's for $3000? Also I want nothing to do with using a HTPC for 3D as I have no patience with regards to learning the software and various glitches I have read about. Also very few of the games I play are on PC, I curretly own both a PS3 and Xbox 360, for gaming. Lastly, a $1000 screen would be great if there was a consensus of what screen material will work for both 2D and 3D.

projector people had a special over Christmas that I couldn't pass up since I was planning on a dual projection system, $1500 each brand new! As far as gaming goes I've always used a PS3 too but since 3D is limited to 720p I'm possibly moving completely to PC and installing two GTX 460's or getting a newer card.
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post #467 of 2269 Old 03-10-2011, 08:07 PM
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I agree with much of what zaytser is saying. This needs to become easier quickly. Money isn't as big of a hurdle as time needed to tweek, perfect, or just make usable. This needs to change. There are many of you that have a passion and enjoy the challenge of overcoming problems with your 3D system. You are to be commended for your diligence and sharing of your actions and results. The format will die if this becomes a necessity for people to go 3D. We all have a stake in this becoming cheaper, easier, and much much more friendlier for the general public to get on board. This will open the gates to content, content, and more content!

Thanks to this thread it should become a simple process, I just got my screen and haven't ordered filters or 3DXL's because I want to keep things simple. I went with Stagelite Stereo because its more robust than the Spectral 240 and can be rolled up without damage, when all is said and done I plan to have it be a pull-down over a fixed frame for 2D. I'm waiting for more definitive answers on filters but they will be the hardest part for me being able to mount them and take them off. Also like I mentioned before I want to see what the HDFury team has in the works as competition to the 3DXL.
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post #468 of 2269 Old 03-11-2011, 08:25 AM
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I'm waiting for more definitive answers on filters but they will be the hardest part for me being able to mount them and take them off.

jmc,
I'm not familiar with the BenQ projectors, but do they have any type of filter thread on the lens? I ask because that's how I mount my filters. The AE2000s have a 105mm lens thread which accepts filters that size. I ordered two 105mm UV filters off EBay and mounted the polarizers films in front of the UV glass element, and now it's a simple matter to screw them on in short order. You can also get a threaded adapter for Cokin type filters, which will take a square filter holder and secure it to the front of your lens. All this depends, of course, on having a threaded lens, and it being a standard size.

On another topic, HDFury is now indicating that the timeline for their 3DFury is April/May. I, too, can't wait to see what they come up with.
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post #469 of 2269 Old 03-11-2011, 12:55 PM
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Ummm, I am assuming you are usin an active 3D set up. I thought this thread was about using two pj's and going the passive 3D route. My apologies if I mis understood you set up and there is something abut DLP link I do not know about.
Maybe I did not get the reply right, but I was commenting to a comment about the thread only being good in the beginning and nother stating some other form of dual projectors as being the cheap route. I am impressed with the progress still being made. I mean somebody on here had to blaze these trails. And on the cheapness? Anybody doing dual is not doing the cheap route at all.
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post #470 of 2269 Old 03-11-2011, 01:51 PM
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I have ordered circular polarized real3d-glasses to test my DLA-DH1 as well as regular polarized sun-glasses, but I have not yet received those, so I cannot make any further investments yet. I presume both glasses are needed in order to determine the workability of the projectors.

However, a couple of questions presuming that JVC DLA-HD1:s would work for the passive setup:

- I have a 136-inch curved screen, but I should now select the fabric for 3D and 2D, which should I use? Is it the harkness 240 or which one? [I have bought also an anamorphic lens, which I plan to use for watching 2.40:1 2D)

- presuming DLA-HD1 is polarized the same way as JVC X3, which filters should I use and is it worth going for circular polarization or should I go for linear polarized solution? Can one procude for projectors such filters that are available for cameras?

Thanks for any info!
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post #471 of 2269 Old 03-11-2011, 02:15 PM
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The curved screen shouldn't be much of an issue, the anamorphic lens though bothers me.
The first thought that comes to my mind is : "anything that comes between the filters and the screen will cause trouble"
I don't have any experience with anamorphic lenses so I can't say if you can put the filter before the anamorphic lens or if the lens causes too much trouble and you'd have to put it after the lens.
The one thing I know : my prescription glasses do cause polarisation distortion if i put the polarising glasses and my prescription glasses in the wrong order. It may just be an issue with the materials used in my prescription glasses and not happen with pure glass lenses, I don't know, I do not have enough experience with those.

About the screen.
I love my Spectral 240 for 3D : especially it's high polarisation extinction rate, with a curved screen the hotspotting caused by the 2.4 gain would be significantly less visible. However as a 2D/3D surface I have a big warning for you : you have to seat far from it because of it's grainy surface.
In 3D the polarisation hides a good portion of it but in 2D it's really there and it's very strong.
I sit 3 metre away from the screen and for 2D usage, the grainy texture is obvious and ruins the picture.
I reckon you should sit at least 5 metre away from the screen to make sure the graininess dissolves into the picture for good 2D usage.

Passive 3D, forever !

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. (really out of date ! I need to update it some day...)

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post #472 of 2269 Old 03-11-2011, 02:44 PM
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Thanks BlackShark for the comment: My lens is motorized, so I can turn it away when watching 3D. I am trying to make it so that the filter moves along with the lens: i.e. when the lens is in use, the filter will move away. We will just have to see how it works out.

I wonder what would be the best choice for 2D and 3D, cause I really want to use only one screen for both and I would like to have as reasonably priced screen material as possible. Harkness Spectral 240 is quite cheap in comparison to e.g. Stewart %D (which apparently is not sold without frames either). Any suggestions on a single alternative for both 2D and 3D?
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post #473 of 2269 Old 03-11-2011, 03:47 PM
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I'm still adding new data to this wiki when it comes up. Go home and test all of your LCD and LCoS projectors.

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/wiki...s-lcd-and-lcos
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post #474 of 2269 Old 03-11-2011, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I have ordered circular polarized real3d-glasses to test my DLA-DH1 as well as regular polarized sun-glasses, but I have not yet received those, so I cannot make any further investments yet. I presume both glasses are needed in order to determine the workability of the projectors.

However, a couple of questions presuming that JVC DLA-HD1:s would work for the passive setup:

- I have a 136-inch curved screen, but I should now select the fabric for 3D and 2D, which should I use? Is it the harkness 240 or which one? [I have bought also an anamorphic lens, which I plan to use for watching 2.40:1 2D)

- presuming DLA-HD1 is polarized the same way as JVC X3, which filters should I use and is it worth going for circular polarization or should I go for linear polarized solution? Can one procude for projectors such filters that are available for cameras?

Thanks for any info!

I would recommend you not use the anamorphic lenses with 3D content - it will make it much more challenging to align the projectors' pixels (although I realize you may just have one AL for 2D. If you do use it with 3D then, as Blackshark suggests, place the polarizing filter after the AL.

The Harkness 240 is an excellent screen - I am behind on my homework, updating the thread with the performance, but I'll update the numbers for that next week when I'm back home. For more money, the Stewart 5D is not quite as good for retaining the polarisation, but is also well suited for 2D. I'm personally waiting to test the BlackDiamond 3D which I should be testing in 3 weeks.

Rotating the polarisation of the HD1s should be a cinch, like it was for the RS40s I have here. But I have been lax and not posted the step-by-step instructions. Everything you need is available at polarisation.com, but I took an expensive shortcut and got an Advisol filter kit custom made.

I will post step-by-step polarisation instructions next week for various projector types, using the ready made sheets available from polarisation.com, as well as the ordering instructions from a source like Advisol's dealers.

I plan on doing a separate detailed post for each solution, and creating a index of links in the opening posts.

Sorry I haven't done this before, but I think you'll be happy with the detail once I get them posted.

Ahh... F1 in full HD 3D with
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post #475 of 2269 Old 03-11-2011, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by solid_dvd View Post

I have ordered circular polarized real3d-glasses to test my DLA-DH1 as well as regular polarized sun-glasses, but I have not yet received those, so I cannot make any further investments yet. I presume both glasses are needed in order to determine the workability of the projectors.

Regular polarized sun-glasses won't fit the bill for a passive system since both lenses are polarized the same (vertically). To test a linear polarized system, you need glasses with one eye at 135 degrees and the other at 45 degrees (standard in the "old" 3D days) or one horizontal and the other vertical. There are a number of on-line suppliers for these in paper and regular frame versions. You might be able to procure a pair of RealD type glasses at one of your local theaters. Ask politely and explain what you are doing, and they might give you a pair. These are clunky looking but pretty high quality polarization wise. In any case, these are available on-line also.

Glasses sources:

http://www.berezin.com/3D/3dglasses.htm#Polarized

http://www.3dstereo.com/viewmaster/glp.html
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Regular polarized sun-glasses won't fit the bill for a passive system since both lenses are polarized the same (vertically). To test a linear polarized system, you need glasses with one eye at 135 degrees and the other at 45 degrees (standard in the "old" 3D days) or one horizontal and the other vertical. There are a number of on-line suppliers for these in paper and regular frame versions. You might be able to procure a pair of RealD type glasses at one of your local theaters. Ask politely and explain what you are doing, and they might give you a pair. These are clunky looking but pretty high quality polarization wise. In any case, these are available on-line also.

Hmm, I thought it would be possible to check the linear polarization with regular polarized sunglasses? I looked at post #4 in this thread and it said: "If your projector IS linear polarised, and all colors are at the same angle, you can determine that angle by using a pair of polarised sunglasses. Sunglasses are almost always polarised vertically at 90 degrees, since the sun is coming from above. So if your test with sunglasses shows its DARKEST shadow with the glasses held at a normal horizontal position, then your polarisation is 0 degrees, or horizontal (opposite to the vertical polarisation of the glasses)."

I guess I better order those linear polarized glasses as well.
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I would recommend you not use the anamorphic lenses with 3D content - it will make it much more challenging to align the projectors' pixels (although I realize you may just have one AL for 2D. If you do use it with 3D then, as Blackshark suggests, place the polarizing filter after the AL.

The Harkness 240 is an excellent screen - I am behind on my homework, updating the thread with the performance, but I'll update the numbers for that next week when I'm back home. For more money, the Stewart 5D is not quite as good for retaining the polarisation, but is also well suited for 2D. I'm personally waiting to test the BlackDiamond 3D which I should be testing in 3 weeks.

Rotating the polarisation of the HD1s should be a cinch, like it was for the RS40s I have here. But I have been lax and not posted the step-by-step instructions. Everything you need is available at polarisation.com, but I took an expensive shortcut and got an Advisol filter kit custom made.

I will post step-by-step polarisation instructions next week for various projector types, using the ready made sheets available from polarisation.com, as well as the ordering instructions from a source like Advisol's dealers.

I plan on doing a separate detailed post for each solution, and creating a index of links in the opening posts.

Sorry I haven't done this before, but I think you'll be happy with the detail once I get them posted.

Yes, I have only one anamorphic lens and I plan to use this solely for 2D.

I am a bit worried about the Harkness 240 vis a vis its performance for 2D, when I look at BlackShark's comments vis a vis grain. Stewart 5D could be possible, but I think the price in comparison to Harkness would be ten times as much and I have heard that they don't sell the 5D without framing. If I found a cheaper source for Stewart 5D, I think I would order it.

Thanks rdjam for you excellent work and I will wait for your test results! It would be good to find online-sources that will ship material into Europe as well.
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post #478 of 2269 Old 03-12-2011, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks rdjam for you excellent work and I will wait for your test results! It would be good to find online-sources that will ship material into Europe as well.

no probs, solid. I'll have all I have learned posted next week.

Yes, you can test the polarization with sunglasses a long as you are sure they are polarized. But its always good to have a set of linear polarized 3D glasses as well so you can post pics here of your tests.

Cheers!

Ahh... F1 in full HD 3D with
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Hmm, I thought it would be possible to check the linear polarization with regular polarized sunglasses? I looked at post #4 in this thread and it said: "If your projector IS linear polarised, and all colors are at the same angle, you can determine that angle by using a pair of polarised sunglasses. Sunglasses are almost always polarised vertically at 90 degrees, since the sun is coming from above. So if your test with sunglasses shows its DARKEST shadow with the glasses held at a normal horizontal position, then your polarisation is 0 degrees, or horizontal (opposite to the vertical polarisation of the glasses)."

I guess I better order those linear polarized glasses as well.

Sorry - my mistake. I thought you were referring to final testing of a 3D system. For projector testing (to determine a projector's polarization), polarized sun-glasses will work just fine. You are quite correct in your statement. My apologies.
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post #480 of 2269 Old 03-13-2011, 12:30 PM
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jmc,
I'm not familiar with the BenQ projectors, but do they have any type of filter thread on the lens? I ask because that's how I mount my filters. The AE2000s have a 105mm lens thread which accepts filters that size. I ordered two 105mm UV filters off EBay and mounted the polarizers films in front of the UV glass element, and now it's a simple matter to screw them on in short order. You can also get a threaded adapter for Cokin type filters, which will take a square filter holder and secure it to the front of your lens. All this depends, of course, on having a threaded lens, and it being a standard size.

On another topic, HDFury is now indicating that the timeline for their 3DFury is April/May. I, too, can't wait to see what they come up with.

It isn't threaded but and chance one would fit into the opening?
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