Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 142 - AVS Forum
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post #4231 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 05:03 PM
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It's a good thing the RS40 I have is going back (convergence issue). Yesterday, when I fired it up, I noticed a sudden and dramatic drop in brightness. The day before yesterday, I was on low lamp with the iris at minus 15. The next day, I had the iris fully open, high lamp, and it was still too dark. In order to see any detail in dark areas, I had to push the gamma to 1.8, which kills contrast.

This reminds me of what happened to my Optoma H79, which would suddenly develop a similar problem (though even worse). My replacement RS40 is coming soon. Good thing. I haven't tried it yet, but 3D won't be watchable this way.

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post #4232 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 05:06 PM
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With the number of problems with the RS40 I am losing faith in JVC. It's not like they are millions of them out there and only few people with problems come here to write about them.

Epson's 2nd day advance replacement warranty service for their RLCD line looks so attractive now. If only Epson delivered the projectors on time.
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post #4233 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by unclemat View Post

Epson's 2nd day advance replacement warranty service for their RLCD line looks so attractive now. If only Epson delivered the projectors on time.

Don't get pulled into the Epson thing. Their exchange program is excellent... really. It's very fast and they ask for almost no justification at all. In fact, it works so well some AVS'ers are on their 7th projector! Epson has coupled a really excellent exchange program with abysmal QC. You just swap 'till you drop!
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post #4234 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post

It's a good thing the RS40 I have is going back (convergence issue). Yesterday, when I fired it up, I noticed a sudden and dramatic drop in brightness. The day before yesterday, I was on low lamp with the iris at minus 15. The next day, I had the iris fully open, high lamp, and it was still too dark. In order to see any detail in dark areas, I had to push the gamma to 1.8, which kills contrast.

Man, how many problems are there with that unit? Its just unbelievable.

How bad was your convergence ? BTW, any ideas what caused the drop in brightness ?

On a side related note I just noticed that the convergence changes a bit from when the projector is first turned on to after it has been running for an hour. Doesn't fix my problem but goes from real bad to bad. Will need to document this.
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post #4235 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by pawstar View Post

Man, how many problems are there with this thing? Its just unbelievable.

How bad was your convergence ?

On a side related note I just noticed that the convergence changes a bit from when the projector is first turned on to after it has been running for an hour. Doesn't fix my problem but goes from real bad to bad. Will need to document this.

Pawstar take it easy. I count what 4 or 5 unhappy campers in this thread. You make it sound like its a disaster. I have over 400 hours on mine and it's still wonderful.

EDIT: unless you refer only to Joseph Clarks's unit then yes that one is a disaster!

GO HABS GO!
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post #4236 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 06:29 PM
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Just order mine x3
Im so excited :-)
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post #4237 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 07:17 PM
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You guys need to watch the second Lord of the Rings with this projector. I am stunned at the level of black details in the forrest scenes and most of the dark scenes in the entire movie. This pj is an awesome beast.

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post #4238 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post

It's a good thing the RS40 I have is going back (convergence issue). Yesterday, when I fired it up, I noticed a sudden and dramatic drop in brightness. The day before yesterday, I was on low lamp with the iris at minus 15. The next day, I had the iris fully open, high lamp, and it was still too dark. In order to see any detail in dark areas, I had to push the gamma to 1.8, which kills contrast.

This reminds me of what happened to my Optoma H79, which would suddenly develop a similar problem (though even worse). My replacement RS40 is coming soon. Good thing. I haven't tried it yet, but 3D won't be watchable this way.

Same thing happened to me! I had mine on high lamp and it was still dim. The rs 35 was brighter.
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post #4239 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

Same thing happened to me! I had mine on high lamp and it was still dim. The rs 35 was brighter.

Didn't you go thru two RS40s? Was this problem with the 1st or the 2nd RS40?
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post #4240 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by zbroke View Post

Pawstar take it easy. I count what 4 or 5 unhappy campers in this thread. You make it sound like its a disaster. I have over 400 hours on mine and it's still wonderful.

EDIT: unless you refer only to Joseph Clarks's unit then yes that one is a disaster!

Thanks zbroke.

Everyone should expect to have a projector with good convergence. It's pretty simple to describe: If you throw a checkerboard style test pattern on your screen, such as the pattern in our service menu, all of those white squares should be predominantly white. Yes, there can be red or blue edges, but those lines should be primarily white. Even in the corners.

Sometimes you can improve the convergence by playing with the pixel shift. Do keep in mind that these are three chip devices, so there will still be a certain amount of red or blue edges that you can see if you look close enough. This can happen even after you have adjusted things as best as you can. You will see that edge at 1-2 feet, but not at 6-8 feet, and certainly not at a normal viewing distance. I had an X3 today where I changed the vertical pixel shift one click and it did improve. That's why those controls are there.

When you see a screen shot where the red, the green & the blue are completely separated, that's shipping damage, not a QC issue. Luckily, this is not a common thing, but it does happen.

Chris
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post #4241 of 9995 Old 02-07-2011, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cdeutsch View Post

Thanks zbroke.

Everyone should expect to have a projector with good convergence. It's pretty simple to describe: If you throw a checkerboard style test pattern on your screen, such as the pattern in our service menu, all of those white squares should be predominantly white. Yes, there can be red or blue edges, but those lines should be primarily white. Even in the corners.

Sometimes you can improve the convergence by playing with the pixel shift. Do keep in mind that these are three chip devices, so there will still be a certain amount of red or blue edges that you can see if you look close enough. This can happen even after you have adjusted things as best as you can. You will see that edge at 1-2 feet, but not at 6-8 feet, and certainly not at a normal viewing distance. I had an X3 today where I changed the vertical pixel shift one click and it did improve. That's why those controls are there.

When you see a screen shot where the red, the green & the blue are completely separated, that's shipping damage, not a QC issue. Luckily, this is not a common thing, but it does happen.

Chris

Chris,

Is this considered acceptable pixel shift in your opinion and/or according to JVC QC standards (I don't mean to make the question sound rhetorical, but dunno how else to word it. I would like an honest opinion. Please reply or PM me with your response).

Both images where made using one of the patterns that are in the service menu. The first image is without any pixel adjustment and the second is using the best pixel offset settings that I managed to find after playing with the shifting.

Can I see the fringing in the adjusted image at 4 ft - yes, at 8 ft barely.
LL
LL
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post #4242 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 12:55 AM
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Hey Guys what do you think about setup x3 with this screen?
Accuscreen 800007 it's 119" 1.1 gain
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post #4243 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 04:34 AM
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Tn1krr / DamnSam77,

Thanks for the info. I have since completed a full reset of the PJ back to Factory settings. I also did a full reset and format of the PS3, and lost everything in the process!!

But i'm seeing a huge improvement in 3D image. GT5 may well destroy my marriage!!

Might be something to note:- If the receiver is switched off after a PS3 enters 3D mode, once switched back on crosstalk increases drastically.
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post #4244 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdeutsch View Post

Thanks zbroke.

Everyone should expect to have a projector with good convergence. It's pretty simple to describe: If you throw a checkerboard style test pattern on your screen, such as the pattern in our service menu, all of those white squares should be predominantly white. Yes, there can be red or blue edges, but those lines should be primarily white. Even in the corners.

Sometimes you can improve the convergence by playing with the pixel shift. Do keep in mind that these are three chip devices, so there will still be a certain amount of red or blue edges that you can see if you look close enough. This can happen even after you have adjusted things as best as you can. You will see that edge at 1-2 feet, but not at 6-8 feet, and certainly not at a normal viewing distance. I had an X3 today where I changed the vertical pixel shift one click and it did improve. That's why those controls are there.

When you see a screen shot where the red, the green & the blue are completely separated, that's shipping damage, not a QC issue. Luckily, this is not a common thing, but it does happen.

Chris

Hi Chris,

I appreciate your comments and advice. I realise you tried to express this in simple terms that anybody would be able to evaluate themselves. But does JVC have a formal tolerance statement (e.g. 0.5 a pixel in the centre, 1 pixel at the edges) for convergence? The pixel grid in the service menu is 2 pixels wide EXCEPT at the edges where it is 1 pixel. All of my white lines look predominately white except the outside border, which at the bottom I see the blue separated and the line itself no longer looks white. It is exactly 1 pixel out but it will look worse on that grid at the edges because its only a 1 pixel width border. However from 2 feet back it starts to merge and looks white again. So depending on people's screensize and standing distance, they could interprete your remarks differently. So if JVC would consider issuing a formal convergence tolerance statement this would be most helpful. For example, for a different problem, pixel operation, some manufacturers state no more than 2 sub-pixel stuck/dead pixels etc etc. It is very specific and not open to interpretation.

I have seen a second X7/RS50 with almost copycat convergence deviation as mine. 1 pixel in blue vertically at the very edge, and a bit out in red horizontally. Seems a bit of a coincidence that it should mirror so well. And I have now seen three X7/RS50s which are slightly greenish on uniformity in one corner when mounted upside down (inverted).

As these are seemingly repeated deviations, they should be fixable with tweaks in the factory. The poster with concerns about his concergence a few posts up is also out vertically in blue. And interestingly looking through the threads, this is repeated with others too.
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post #4245 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawstar View Post

Chris,

Is this considered acceptable pixel shift in your opinion and/or according to JVC QC standards (I don't mean to make the question sound rhetorical, but dunno how else to word it. I would like an honest opinion. Please reply or PM me with your response).

Both images where made using one of the patterns that are in the service menu. The first image is without any pixel adjustment and the second is using the best pixel offset settings that I managed to find after playing with the shifting.

Can I see the fringing in the adjusted image at 4 ft - yes, at 8 ft barely.

Not knowing exactly what part of the screen we are looking at, I would say the image on the right looks good.

Chris
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post #4246 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Hi Chris,

I appreciate your comments and advice. I realise you tried to express this in simple terms that anybody would be able to evaluate themselves. But does JVC have a formal tolerance statement (e.g. 0.5 a pixel in the centre, 1 pixel at the edges) for convergence? The pixel grid in the service menu is 2 pixels wide EXCEPT at the edges where it is 1 pixel. All of my white lines look predominately white except the outside border, which at the bottom I see the blue separated and the line itself no longer looks white. It is exactly 1 pixel out but it will look worse on that grid at the edges because its only a 1 pixel width border. However from 2 feet back it starts to merge and looks white again. So depending on people's screensize and standing distance, they could interprete your remarks differently. So if JVC would consider issuing a formal convergence tolerance statement this would be most helpful. For example, for a different problem, pixel operation, some manufacturers state no more than 2 sub-pixel stuck/dead pixels etc etc. It is very specific and not open to interpretation.

I have seen a second X7/RS50 with almost copycat convergence deviation as mine. 1 pixel in blue vertically at the very edge, and a bit out in red horizontally. Seems a bit of a coincidence that it should mirror so well. And I have now seen three X7/RS50s which are slightly greenish on uniformity in one corner when mounted upside down (inverted).

As these are seemingly repeated deviations, they should be fixable with tweaks in the factory. The poster with concerns about his concergence a few posts up is also out vertically in blue. And interestingly looking through the threads, this is repeated with others too.

Hi Jon,

Unfortunately there is no spec on accurate convergence. To answer your question, I will reference what you pointed out in the same question--this is not something that can be quantified with a simple number. We are dealing with many points of convergence spread over the whole screen, and there is always going to be some variation. Some of it is actual convergence, some is minor CA caused by a variety of factors, including how much lens shift is used. My philosophy on lens shift is pretty simple: it's way better than keystone adjustment, and for most people the minor negatives are easily offset by the huge positives.

The main purpose of my prior post was to point out that several examples we have seen here are clearly shipping damage, and well beyond the bounds of anything that could be considered a QC issue.

The vast majority of our projectors have convergence set in a way that is either fine as is, or easily tweeked like the example pawstar provided.

Chris
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post #4247 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cdeutsch View Post


Hi Jon,

Unfortunately there is no spec on accurate convergence. To answer your question, I will reference what you pointed out in the same question--this is not something that can be quantified with a simple number. We are dealing with many points of convergence spread over the whole screen, and there is always going to be some variation. Some of it is actual convergence, some is minor CA caused by a variety of factors, including how much lens shift is used. My philosophy on lens shift is pretty simple: it's way better than keystone adjustment, and for most people the minor negatives are easily offset by the huge positives.

The main purpose of my prior post was to point out that several examples we have seen here are clearly shipping damage, and well beyond the bounds of anything that could be considered a QC issue.

The vast majority of our projectors have convergence set in a way that is either fine as is, or easily tweeked like the example pawstar provided.

Chris

Hi Chris,

How about a simple " good " VS " bad " convergence image. (center , upper left , upper right, bottom left , bottom right)

I know perfect convergence white grid at 1' (no rgb leakage) is out of the question for the entire screen.

Do you have something documented from JVC that you can share with us.

This would illustrate what we should immediately look for out of the box and help others including myself know if we have a bad unit caused by shipping or if we are simply within spec.
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post #4248 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Robonovo View Post

Hey Guys what do you think about setup x3 with this screen?
Accuscreen 800007 it's 119" 1.1 gain

It's a Draper Inc product, but the Draper site doesn't list it. However searching for "Accuscreens" on their main site takes you here: http://www.accuscreens.com/Screens.a...creensElectric

Off the top, maybe one caveat is that it is not tensioned so you could get wrinkles/waves appearing.

Otherwise it depends on your light control in the room and throw distance (which affects brightness).

Coolplazma's HT Den project. Early project info. Needs update with final results.
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post #4249 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by c5z06 View Post

Hi Chris,

How about a simple " good " VS " bad " convergence image. (center , upper left , upper right, bottom left , bottom right)

I know ideally perfect convergence is out of the question and would be a good reason why an image would be good.

Do you have something documented from JVC that you can share with us.

This would illustrate what we should immediately look for out of the box and help others including myself know if we have a bad unit caused by shipping or if we are simply within spec.

The best pix are right here already. The 2nd image from pawstar is a good example of good convergence. There are several examples of the obvious shipping damage bad convergence I have mentioned. I think one was from a member named Joe.

Best convergence is generally in the middle. A little fall off is ok on the sides, but white lines in a test pattern should be predominantly white in all areas of the screen. If it's visible from your viewing distance, it is a problem. If it is only visible when you are within 1-2 feet of the screen it is not a problem.

Most people won't ever check this. A lot of people who follow this forum do. That's what makes you guys cool, and that's ok. If you can step back to 5-6 feet and it is pretty much gone, and if you don't see it where you are seated, don't stress it.

Chris
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post #4250 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cdeutsch View Post

The best pix are right here already. The 2nd image from pawstar is a good example of good convergence. There are several examples of the obvious shipping damage bad convergence I have mentioned. I think one was from a member named Joe.

Best convergence is generally in the middle. A little fall off is ok on the sides, but white lines in a test pattern should be predominantly white in all areas of the screen. If it's visible from your viewing distance, it is a problem. If it is only visible when you are within 1-2 feet of the screen it is not a problem.

Most people won't ever check this. A lot of people who follow this forum do. That's what makes you guys cool, and that's ok. If you can step back to 5-6 feet and it is pretty much gone, and if you don't see it where you are seated, don't stress it.

Chris


Thanks Chris!!!

*lens shift centering*

When checking for absolute lens shift horizontal / vertical you mentioned panning to absolute right / left/ up / down. Making sure to document absolute edges, maybe using scotch tape for example. Then finding center point.


Would it also work if I zoom all the way in ( smallest window size ) , then pan up /down / left / right to find absolute lens center. My room is only 13' wide, screen 10' wide. Wondering if this method would still allow me to find true 0 value for lens shift.

My projector is mounted ~14' away onto my 130" 16:9 screen. According to projector calculators out there for rs40 model I am around 1.84X zoom. I am trying to limit chromatic aberration as much as possible since I doubt I am in the sweet spot for my throw distance.
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post #4251 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdeutsch View Post

The best pix are right here already. The 2nd image from pawstar is a good example of good convergence. There are several examples of the obvious shipping damage bad convergence I have mentioned. I think one was from a member named Joe.

Best convergence is generally in the middle. A little fall off is ok on the sides, but white lines in a test pattern should be predominantly white in all areas of the screen. If it's visible from your viewing distance, it is a problem. If it is only visible when you are within 1-2 feet of the screen it is not a problem.

Most people won't ever check this. A lot of people who follow this forum do. That's what makes you guys cool, and that's ok. If you can step back to 5-6 feet and it is pretty much gone, and if you don't see it where you are seated, don't stress it.

Chris


Firstly, thank you again for Chris for engaging with the forum community on this topic. It is a hot topic as you know, and nobody from JVC has seemingly been daring enough to discuss this so openly. So thank you for that.

The really bad one you refer to from Joe, clearly showed all 3 lines separated as you said. But just for your awareness, that was using the AVS forums test disc which is a single pixel grid where each box is very close together. This is very unlike the built-in test pattern where each box is quite large and is 2 pixels in width. The picture was therefore an extreme close-up. Now while I do believe that unit was completely unacceptable, photos can be deceptive. And that test pattern, while good for showing convergence issues, is also a torture test, that will make people stick their nose 2 inches from the screen..and I personally believe indicate a bigger problem than it really is.

I am the last to say I don't have an obsession with it and with my maximum convergence error of 1 pixel on my X7, I am not totally satisfied. I do think JVC need to see about tightening the alignment further in future models. I know its expensive to do, but I think as a customer base in general, we are all becoming more demanding, and expect more than 5 years ago.
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post #4252 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 10:08 AM
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I already have those titles, I get Blu-rays well in advance of release dates and I have about 70 Blu-ray 3-D titles already.

Only problem for me is I still don't have an emitter or glasses to try any still waiting on AVS to get them.

70 titles?
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post #4253 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Tn1krr / DamnSam77,

Thanks for the info. I have since completed a full reset of the PJ back to Factory settings. I also did a full reset and format of the PS3, and lost everything in the process!!

But i'm seeing a huge improvement in 3D image. GT5 may well destroy my marriage!!

Might be something to note:- If the receiver is switched off after a PS3 enters 3D mode, once switched back on crosstalk increases drastically.

Make sure you turn off and disable ALL the Scaling and Upconverting processing within your AVR, and use pure film mode in yuor AVR which is more like a pass thru mode. You will be surprised at how much both the 2D and 3D image will improve when you turn this garbage off. I have a $2000 Denon 4311 receiver with supposedly better upconversion and scaling, and let me tell you, IT'S SOOO NOT!! I turned this crap off and 3D games looked infinitetly better, less ghosting, sharper image especially in 2D when watching HDTV.

Bottom line, your 3D image should look nothing short of amazing, once you go through the necessary 20 min warm up period with 3D mode/high lamp. Sure, some bluray 3D titles have more ghosting than the others, and Comcast/DirecTV sBs 3D will look worse than reference 3D bluray titles like "open season 3D" or Avatar 3D" for example which should look amazing and virtually no ghosting and no flicker. 3D games like COD and GT5 will always show ghosting to varying degrees, but the top 10 BD titles such as Avatar 3D, Open Season 3D, Cloudy 3D, Under the Sea 3D...etc, these should look amazing even a large low gain screen like my 11 ft wide scope 1.1 gain AT screen.

If you're not getting the same convincing results I am describing, then there is something wrong in your set up. The easiest thing to do is to go out and buy yourself a $100 3D BD player like the Sony BDP-S470 (in case the PS3 is the culprit here) and connect the 3D BD player directly to the RS40 (in case your AVR is the culprit) and last, use a newer HDMI high speed cable (in case you have a bad HDMI cable, I did at first), those are the 3 things you could play with to know for sure if your RS40 is defective or if its the other devices or cables in your 3D chain, which will be more than likely the case.
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post #4254 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 10:44 AM
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Make sure you turn off and disable ALL the Scaling and Upconverting processing within your AVR, and use pure film mode in yuor AVR which is more like a pass thru mode. You will be surprised at how much both the 2D and 3D image will improve when you turn this garbage off. I have a $2000 Denon 4311 receiver with supposedly better upconversion and scaling, and let me tell you, IT'S SOOO NOT!! I turned this crap off and 3D games looked infinitetly better, less ghosting, sharper image especially in 2D when watching HDTV.

Bottom line, your 3D image should look nothing short of amazing, once you go through the necessary 20 min warm up period with 3D mode/high lamp. Sure, some bluray 3D titles have more ghosting than the others, and Comcast/DirecTV sBs 3D will look worse than reference 3D bluray titles like "open season 3D" or Avatar 3D" for example which should look amazing and virtually no ghosting and no flicker. 3D games like COD and GT5 will always show ghosting to varying degrees, but the top 10 BD titles such as Avatar 3D, Open Season 3D, Cloudy 3D, Under the Sea 3D...etc, these should look amazing even a large low gain screen like my 11 ft wide scope 1.1 gain AT screen.

If you're not getting the same convincing results I am describing, then there is something wrong in your set up. The easiest thing to do is to go out and buy yourself a $100 3D BD player like the Sony BDP-S470 (in case the PS3 is the culprit here) and connect the 3D BD player directly to the RS40 (in case your AVR is the culprit) and last, use a newer HDMI high speed cable (in case you have a bad HDMI cable, I did at first), those are the 3 things you could play with to know for sure if your RS40 is defective or if its the other devices or cables in your 3D chain, which will be more than likely the case.

Hi Sam,

How many hours do you have currently on your lamp?

Have you ever checked ps3 video quality: "ps3 > rs40" VS "ps3 > AVR > rs40 "?
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post #4255 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pawstar View Post

Man, how many problems are there with that unit? Its just unbelievable.

How bad was your convergence ? BTW, any ideas what caused the drop in brightness ?

On a side related note I just noticed that the convergence changes a bit from when the projector is first turned on to after it has been running for an hour. Doesn't fix my problem but goes from real bad to bad. Will need to document this.

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Originally Posted by zbroke View Post

Pawstar take it easy. I count what 4 or 5 unhappy campers in this thread. You make it sound like its a disaster. I have over 400 hours on mine and it's still wonderful.

EDIT: unless you refer only to Joseph Clarks's unit then yes that one is a disaster!


I will echo ZBroke's statement. There are about 2-3 dozens of us, verified RS40/50/x3/x7 owners, posting on this thread and other owner threads. Once you take out the digital noise issue, which is now becoming more of a non-issue after 100 hours (I personally never noticed it, even the first 20 hours), you will end up with only a handful of owners with noticeable convergence issues, maybe 2 or 3. So the RS40 has actually been mostly problem-free for the big majority of us early owners, with the exception of two main issues, Gamma flexibility (or lack there of) in 3D mode, and the whole DirecTV/JVC/EDID/3D dilemma which affects all ESPN3D events not being compatible. And Chris did confirm that the engineers have been looking into this issue.

Other than that, this projector has been phenomenal in almost evey possible way, from the low entry price point to the spectacular and satisfactory-lit 3D image on most screens, even a low 1.1 gain 140" screen. I am at 230 hours now, after 2 months, and I still have the aperture dialed down to -6 and I absolutely love it! JVC could not have made a better 1st gen 3D projector in the same first year 3D flat panels were introduced.

Now if we can unlock the gamma customization and fix the ESPN3D/DirecTV issue, I will be a Very happy 3D camper.
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post #4256 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by c5z06 View Post

Hi Sam,

How many hours do you have currently on your lamp?

Have you ever checked ps3 video quality: "ps3 > rs40" VS "ps3 > AVR > rs40 "?

over 200 hours, close to 230 hours.

I never bothered using my PS3 beyong GT5 for 3D viewing. I am in LOVE with my Oppo93, best purchase I have made to compliment the RS40. It can do a great subtitle shift (Thank You!!) which is great for us CIH operators, and more importantly it has v-stretched every scope 3D bluray title I have, which are about 10 or so that are out right now, and let me tell you, the only thing better than 3D, is a full 140", 11 ft wide scope 3D image with no bars filling up and 11 ft wide screen, WOW, it's so enveloping.

And let's not forget how amazing standard 2D blurays look, I saw SALT and RED the other day, both looked spectacular in scope.
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post #4257 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

If you're not getting the same convincing results I am describing, then there is something wrong in your set up. The easiest thing to do is to go out and buy yourself a $100 3D BD player like the Sony BDP-S470 (in case the PS3 is the culprit here) and connect the 3D BD player directly to the RS40 (in case your AVR is the culprit) and last, use a newer HDMI high speed cable (in case you have a bad HDMI cable, I did at first), those are the 3 things you could play with to know for sure if your RS40 is defective or if its the other devices or cables in your 3D chain, which will be more than likely the case.

Over christmas I had a chance to use my bro's new Sony S370 and IMO it's a real dog (slow) and cumbersome menus. The player does have DLNA which he wanted, so it was something of a tradeoff with other makes/models out there. Personally, I am a lot happier with the Panasonic DMPBDT100 3D player which is at the same price point as the S470 (more like $170), but currently includes a free copy of Avatar 3D (still selling on eBay for the cost of this player). For the money ("cheap") it's a solid, basic 3D player with very good quality output.

Coolplazma's HT Den project. Early project info. Needs update with final results.
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post #4258 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

over 200 hours, close to 230 hours.

I never bothered using my PS3 beyong GT5 for 3D viewing. I am in LOVE with my Oppo93, best purchase I have made to compliment the RS40. It can do a great subtitle shift (Thank You!!) which is great for us CIH operators, and more importantly it has v-stretched every scope 3D bluray title I have, which are about 10 or so that are out right now, and let me tell you, the only thing better than 3D, is a full 140", 11 ft wide scope 3D image with no bars filling up and 11 ft wide screen, WOW, it's so enveloping.

And let's not forget how amazing standard 2D blu-rays look, I saw SALT and RED the other day, both looked spectacular in scope.

The only dvd/blu-ray source player I currently have is my ps3....

On standard DVD while using my ps3/rs40 direct hookup I can definitely see noise, which looks like macro blocking digital effects. Sucks big time... Oppo 93 I hope will solve this.

Anyone do a comparison on 2d blu-ray ps3 VS oppo 93 with the rs40 ?

Blu-ray image quality looks great! Iron man 2...I am hoping I get even greater image quality once my oppo 93 comes in (hopefully by this week).
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post #4259 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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post #4260 of 9995 Old 02-08-2011, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolplazma View Post

Over christmas I had a chance to use my bro's new Sony S370 and IMO it's a real dog (slow) and cumbersome menus. The player does have DLNA which he wanted, so it was something of a tradeoff with other makes/models out there. Personally, I am a lot happier with the Panasonic DMPBDT100 3D player which is at the same price point as the S470 (more like $170), but currently includes a free copy of Avatar 3D (still selling on eBay for the cost of this player). For the money ("cheap") it's a solid, basic 3D player with very good quality output.

oh absolutely go for the Panny if it's comparably priced with the free Avatar 3D, that's a no brainer. I actually recommended to my buddy that he returns his S570 in favor of getting the Panny with the Avatar deal. by the way, I was talking about the S470 and S570, both of which are as fast in playing and booting up as the PS3, I did not notice a measurable difference in the performance of either.

the only reason why I was recommending he tries a cheap 3D BD player (which he could still return within 30 days) just to eliminate any possible 3D playback issues with his PS3, just one of 3 things to check for (BD, AVR, and cables).

but I must say DLNA is such a cool feature, I am using an 8TB NAS (RAID5) with a combination of my HTPC running this amazing media server app called Mezzmo, it is so much better than the free WMP media player, it actually upconverts to DVD and near HD quality on the fly, it's very fast and responsive, both the NAS and the Mezzmo media server. So it's definitely nice to have a a couple of DLNA 1.5 enabled devices throughout your home.
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