Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monstosity12 View Post

No problem buddy. Any other questions just report back

Went into my Dennon 4308CI AVR and here is what it had

i/p - A to H & H to H
- Off
- A to H

I put mine on A to H like you said.

These another section that has Resolution - 1080P
- Auto
- 480p/ 576p
- 1080i
- 720p
I selected 1080P



I also have a question under GUI- Format- NTSC
- PAL

Which one do I select?
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post #632 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

But the RS40, which is what i own is nor THX certified, unless you're saying that JVC implemented thr same techniques for 3D color accuracy on the RS40 but did nit label it THX certified (wink wink). If that is the case, well that would be amazing.

That's exactly what I'm saying, they just can't put the THX badge on it.
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post #633 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

Went into my Dennon 4308CI AVR and here is what it had

i/p - A to H & H to H
- Off
- A to H

I put mine on A to H like you said.

These another section that has Resolution - 1080P
- Auto
- 480p/ 576p
- 1080i
- 720p
I selected 1080P



I also have a question under GUI- Format- NTSC
- PAL
Which one do I select?

Regarding which format to use. I would leave it selected to NTSC as this is for North America. Pal is used in Europe. PAL I believe is 50 HZ, and NTSC uses 60 hz.

Resolution. I really cant remember what I have this selected to, but I think its either 1080p or auto. But either will work. But I would select auto, since some previews in movies are not in fact recorded at 1080p. And for me at least, would not want the reciever to override, not sure if this is the case, the set i/p scaler to A to H. I would want the projector to upconvert these since it has a great chip for this. The Reon.

Oh, and sorry for saying A to A. A to H sound right But 100% sure it A to H since it was the shorter one.
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post #634 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post



I also have a question under GUI- Format- NTSC
- PAL

Which one do I select?

select NTSC.

PAL is for Europe and other countries.
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post #635 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cine4Home View Post

Actually, we developed a measuring method for input lag. If there is demand, we might include lag times in coming reviews?

Regards,
Ekki

YES! YES! YES! That would be awesome. Also note if there is a difference in lag between 2D and 3D.
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post #636 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

So I played one of my favorite LFE/overall audio scenes today 2 times in a row from Terminator Salvation (7-11 scene all the way through the ship flying away from the bridge) at ref level which is where I usually listen and both times it slightly moved the RS40 lens, BUT only in the vertical direction. Horizontal did not budge.

I then watched all of Iron Man 2 which had a GREAT LFE track and the lens did not budge one bit This movie would have knocked my RS1 lens ALL out of whack with no padding, but the 40 held up perfectly and again this is a LFE heavy film so this made me very happy.

Conclusion is MOST LFE heavy films should be fine for me now with no padding, but some of the extreme LFE films might still cause slight issues on occasion. So I am happy to report that this area is also a BIG improvement over my RS1.

Not sure how you have your PJ set-up Todd but I think I remember you telling me it's on a shelf. A few years ago I helped a buddy with a new HT install where they had two Earthquake subs in a fairly small room (total overkill to me!). Anyhow, we also had this vibration problem and I went out and found some Sorbothane feet (less than $20 for 4 of them), and that completely fixed the problem.

Kevin


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post #637 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

That's exactly what I'm saying, they just can't put the THX badge on it.


That makes sense Mike. I can't see why if during THX certification, they made an improvement recommendation to JVC, why they wouldn't also incorporate that into the firmware on the 40.

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post #638 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Totally worth the 25 bucks price tag, this movie is a 2D to 3D conversion but it looks better than some of the true 3D titles i have seen.

Oh and again, there is no ghosting or flicker, not even a hint of either. But i am only 30 mins into the movie, which is kind of like an acid trip.

I did not have a good chance to view the men in stripes (sports refs) i saw some of the Broncos game earlier but i couldn't bare to watch anymore, and not because of the RS40 (it even made the Broncos look good!) but 2D HD football is now finally watchable, it looked like crap on the RS20, just too blurry and the image broke up quite often with live sports, the RS40 looks soooo much better for Sports, even without engaging CMD. But the football game did look better in modes 3 and 4, especially 4. I also had it in modes 1 and 2 and didn't notice much difference than with it off, but i only had 30 mins to play around. I also did not notice any color fringing during news scrolls. I will play more with it tomorrow.
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post #639 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 07:47 PM
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Does anyone with this projector have a manual that states the power consumption of this projector in watts? On the website the specs have "TBD" for power consumption.

I need to know this so I can purchase an adequate uninterruptible power supply for the unit... you don't want a power failure to cook your bulb...

I'd be interested to know what UPS you are using with your new JVC-X3 projector...
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post #640 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 08:29 PM
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http://www.jvc.eu/dla-x/spec.html


.

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post #641 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xuniman View Post

I only have a few minutes but wanted to post a couple of Calman charts for you guys to look at. I'll get more measurements done tonight.

This is the Natural setting without any changes
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7263/oobnatural.jpg

This is after I tweaked tint a little beit to red
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/393...tintadjust.jpg

And here is thre grayscale out of box - 6500k natural

http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/3...ayscaleoob.jpg

So what's the overall verdict on this? I'm surprised no one has commented on it. I don't know enough about these charts to know if these are really good, good enough, okay, etc ? Can someone interpret?

So has anyone who owns the X3/RS40 noticed digital noise that was mentioned regarding the RS50?

For those who had an RS1, is the size of the lens the same as the RS1? I have an ND4 filter that I may use if RS40 is too bright and was wondering if that would even be possible.

Another question -- has anyone looked at scrolling text, or slow pans for signs of MIC?

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post #642 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cine4Home View Post

Actually, we developed a measuring method for input lag. If there is demand, we might include lag times in coming reviews?

Regards,
Ekki

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

YES! YES! YES! That would be awesome. Also note if there is a difference in lag between 2D and 3D.

+1 I'd also appreciate seeing this as part of a well rounded review, thanks!
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post #643 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post

Not sure how you have your PJ set-up Todd but I think I remember you telling me it's on a shelf. A few years ago I helped a buddy with a new HT install where they had two Earthquake subs in a fairly small room (total overkill to me!). Anyhow, we also had this vibration problem and I went out and found some Sorbothane feet (less than $20 for 4 of them), and that completely fixed the problem.

Kevin


.


I do have a shelf mount. Thanks for this info! Where can I find Sorbothane feet and what are these exactly?

JVC 3D: Been there, done that, bought a DLP
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post #644 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 09:27 PM
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Sure buddy. They used to be very popular in the turntable and separates days (I used to have them under my Lexicon DC & MC series preamps). They are made of a vibration absorbing rubber polymer material and I just looked on ebay where you can get them for less than $20.

Kevin

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post #645 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 11:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

So even with your AVR and projector now turned off, 1080i side-by-side 3D recordings you now make on your Directv HD-DVR will later play back OK, but not 720p top-bottom 3D recordings?


Just a follow up to Ron's question, I was able to play back the 3D DirecTV programming that were recorded by the HDdVR while both the RS40 and my receiver were both powered off. But there were no 720p top and bottom 3D sports that aired in the past 24 hours to test the theory of manually enabling top and bottom 3D mode to see if these 3D sporting events will be compatible and play back o the RS40 without the "TV cannot support 720p error" that DirecTV receiver normally says. But i will have some content to test in the next 48 hours.
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post #646 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 11:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I have been wanting to close down the Iris more and more lately in 3D, even on my big 1.1 gain AT screen From 18 ft throw distance. sometimes i feel the aperture being opened up all the way is just too much on the eye. I didn't feel this way the first night, I really wanted as much light as possible, but now after 63 hours of viewing i find myself toning things down a bit which i think will only help me down the road when the bulb does lose its brigthness, then I can open up the iris some more and the 3D level of brightness remains relatively the same hopefully for the first 5000-1000 hours by doing so. For example, I watched Alice in Wonderland 3D with my aperture set to -7 the whole time and never once did i think it was dim or had the urge to open up the iris beyond -5.

Here is what i found would work best on each source, and remember if you have a low gain screen like me or even lower gain, you may feel the need at first to blast the screen with as much light as possible, i would recommend that once you get used to the 3D picture to try and tone down the iris, you would be amaze at how much light you would still get in 3D at -5 or even -10.

So anyways here is what i have been doing (again this is totally a personal preference):

- Always pick 3D preset, even though you're engaging high lamp mode only to close down the iris. I say so because the 3D mode just produces the best and most vivid 3D experience

- Try these aperture settings for the different sources
*3D Blurays (from -5 to -10 , depending on movie)
*3D Gaming like BlackOps (set to -5)
*3D DirecTV (-10 as this really helps diminish the appearance of ghosting, do not go more then -5, unless the programming is really dim)

- Use Wide 1 for darker but vivid colors, or use standard (rec709) to get more "light" out of your picture and more natural but less vivid tones

- Always use B(3D) Gamma mode, the A mode just doesn't look good at all in 3D

- Leave Brigthness and Contrast at Zero like many others had suggested

- For more color saturation, boost color (this is totally a personal choice, i have it between 20 and 30)

- Set both Detail and Sharpness between 15-30


I can't say this enough, JVC really pulled out a rabbit with this projector for both 3D and 2D. Maybe i am not the most picky of viewers especially when compared to others here, but i am not blind. I know when something doesn't look right. This projector has me still excited like a little kid in a candy store, I still cannot believe that i can play 3D movies in this quality in my own theater, i really thought we were going to be at least a year or two away from having such a marvel of technology in our homes, forget the 3D flat panels thy instantly become a joke once you have your RS40/50/60 playing 3D blurays on our big home theater screens, the bigger the better if ycan soar the lumens.

So far every bluray movie i have seen (open season, bolt, alice in wonderland, and My Bloody Valentine) all showed no sgns of flicker to my eyes, and also no ghosting, if there were any ghosting, it must have been extremely minimal because i didn't catch it. But the DirecTV 3D programming does exhibit ghosting in varying degrees from th very obvious to the vey faint, and not all DirecTV 3D content shows ghosting, just some and primarily 3D Sports. And the documentaries that do show ghosting, only show is in 10-20% of the entire run time.

I will be back t work tomorrow, so not much to report in the day time. But i will check messages nd the the official thread periodically. Hope more of you get there RS40s soon this week.
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post #647 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 11:41 PM
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Actually I much prefer A(3D). It gives more depth to the image. B(3D) squashes the mid shades into the light ones. This makes the image brighter but less accurate. A(3D) is the "closer" to accurate gamma.

But if you do so, you will want to open that aperture back up again.

Also, I have found that if you stop down the aperture then ghosting starts appearing more and more. As an experiment I closed the aperture down to -15 with the gamma on A(3D). Then I played the disc of Legend of the Guardians (animation) and immediately noticed quite severe ghosting on the opening credit lines when the warner logos etc come towards the screen.

I can't quite figure out why the ghosting gets worse with the aperture closed. Is it because ANSI contrast is affected when stopped down that far?
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post #648 of 9990 Old 12-12-2010, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Ultimately that's what matters. In my case of past bad convergence I could easily see red fringing around fine lines and text (subtitles, instructions during video games, etc)

On the RS1/HD1 it was much easier to see the fringing because the lens was only able to focus well on one colour (typically green). This resulted in the red and blue lines being thicker than the green one. So any MC was exaggerated further by the optics. I had about 1 pixel of misconvergence on my HD1 as well but it was definitely more noticeable then on my HD950/RS25.

Of course screen size vs viewing distance is another big factor. How big is your screen vs seating ratio?

My screensize is 80" diagonal and I sit about 90 inches away.

Also, MC/CA will be more pronounced in my situation as I am using near to the shortest throw. This also challenges focus in the corners more as you are using less central glass for the corners. This is good for 3D of course as I am getting a brigher image but will affect my on/off contrast.
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post #649 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cine4Home View Post

Actually, we developed a measuring method for input lag. If there is demand, we might include lag times in coming reviews?

Regards,
Ekki

Yes, please add this information.
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post #650 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stumlad View Post

-----SNIP -----
I have an ND4 filter that I may use if RS40 is too bright and was wondering if that would even be possible.
----- SNIP -----

There is no need to. The RS40 has an IRIS which can be closed down to reduce the image brightness, in addition to being able to drop to the low lamp mode for less output. BTW, I don't know of any PJ that is so bright that you would need a 2 f-stop (ND4) filter to cut the light output by 75% (unless you are using a really small screen -- much less than 70" diagonal).

I've used ND2 (1 f-stop = 50% cut in Lumens) filters on two PJs with my Da-Lite High-Power screen (gain = 2.8), but that just is equivalent to using a gain = 1.4 screen.

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post #651 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 04:08 AM
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My RS40 comes today. Extremely excited if I did not get stuck at work because of the snow in the Chicago area. Hopeful I get home in time to receive my bundle of joy.
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post #652 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 04:33 AM
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post #653 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 04:49 AM
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Do any Chicago area guys have a RS40 or 50 up and running, and would not mind if a fellow member could do a viewing? I am in the western suburbs. I am stuck between the 2 pj's and cn't decide. I have an HD1 currently, and I am now getting the upgrade itch.
This is the longest I have gone with-out upgrading. (says a lot about the HD1) i went through 3 pj's in the 4 years prior!
would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Tony
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post #654 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

It wasn't me or Adam having the remote related interference with our Xpand glasses, it was someone else and i am having a giant brain fart because I shod know who it was. But i have been answering to dozens to people on the forum so i am mow confused who's got what

But anyhow, the question i asked Adam was to see if his projector auto shutdown and flashes rapidly if he were to cycle the Gamma preset on the remote in 3D from B3D back to A3D.

Confirmed. Mine did the same thing last night. I had to unplug it to reset it. I will probably just leave it on my favorite Gamma setting for all movies but that is pretty stupid and will most likely be fixed in a firmware update. Wait, the RS40 doesnt have an ethernet port. How are we supposed to install updates?

Also, I have alot of 3D movies coming in including Avatar so I am pumped. I have watched two of the Shrek's, Avatar-Airbender, Christmas Carol all in 3D and the look fantastic. I was nervous about Christmas Carol but it was great.

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post #655 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 05:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjgar View Post

Do any Chicago area guys have a RS40 or 50 up and running, and would not mind if a fellow member could do a viewing? I am in the western suburbs. I am stuck between the 2 pj's and cn't decide. I have an HD1 currently, and I am now getting the upgrade itch.
This is the longest I have gone with-out upgrading. (says a lot about the HD1) i went through 3 pj's in the 4 years prior!
would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Tony

I live in Merrillville, IN about 30 min from Chicago. You are more than welcome to stop through. Just PM me, my RS 40 comes today. Hoping to get my 3D glasses and emitter by Thursday
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post #656 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 05:17 AM
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did somebody say jason got an rs40/50 sometime late last week? hopefully he spent all weekend reviewing them?? i hope so, would like his take on these new babies.
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post #657 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post


I can't quite figure out why the ghosting gets worse with the aperture closed. Is it because ANSI contrast is affected when stopped down that far?

Humm, that is interesting. I wonder if the dual iris 50 & 60 exhibit the same phenomena.

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post #658 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aztech View Post

did somebody say jason got an rs40/50 sometime late last week? hopefully he spent all weekend reviewing them?? i hope so, would like his take on these new babies.

Jason mentioned he was testing the chief mounts on an RS50 when Sam was working thru the mount issues so he evidently must have had one at that time.

Geof
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post #659 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

Humm, that is interesting. I wonder if the dual iris 50 & 60 exhibit the same phenomena.

Mine is an X7/RS50!
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post #660 of 9990 Old 12-13-2010, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Mine is an X7/RS50!

Oops, I should have remembered that. That's what I get for posting before finishing the morning coffee.

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