Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 335 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10021 of 10051 Old 10-03-2014, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Degicank View Post
Thank you, johnsmith808, for responding. I look forward to seeing your results.

After researching a little online, I've read about the possibility that the "Ballast PWB" could be the culprit in my situation. Apparently, this part can blow out with the lamp. I'm no expert, but this sounds reasonable considering it is the part that the lamp plugs directly into. If anyone has any input or knowledge about this part, it would be much appreciated.

Also, Does anyone have experience replacing the Ballast PWB? If so, what is the level of difficulty to replace this part? I've built a few desktop PCs and a HTPC, but that's about as far as my level of expertise goes.

Thanks for your help!

BTW, I've read so many posts about how the original lamps for the RS40/x3 have burned out quickly. I must have lucked out. I bought my RS40 in 2011 when it was brand new, and my lamp (original 001 lamp) lasted past 3000 hours with minimal dimming that I could detect. However, I did have it running in high mode for the last several hundred hours. I'm now thinking that I should have replaced the lamp prior to it blowing out when I reached the 3000 hour mark. I'm thinking the blow out may have taken the Ballast with it. This is my first time replacing a lamp, so just trying to figure all this stuff out.
Okay so I got the estimate back from Mendtronix. The problem was diagnosed to be just as you guessed; the Ballast PWB. The part was listed at $195. They also are fixing my front IR receiver, cleaning optics, filters and testing all functions and updating firmware. The total came out to $495 plus $39 return shipping. That's not bad at all. I'll post again once everything is done.
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post #10022 of 10051 Old 10-06-2014, 06:13 AM
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I have a question for you guys regarding my RS40. I haven't had any issues other than the first bulb went at 227 hours. No lock ups, no IR issues, no HDMI handshake issues (yet). My second bulb has 492 hours on it. But lately I've noticed black levels have no gradient to them. In dark scenes it seems the black levels are getting crushed and there is no distinction to gradients. That makes dark scenes impossible to view. Bright scenes seem fine. I have calibrated it with the AVSHD disk. I've tried many movies and the dark scenes are all the same - too dark. This is a recent change as previously I could see the darker scenes no problem. Any ideas?

Thanks
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post #10023 of 10051 Old 10-06-2014, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsmith808 View Post
Okay so I got the estimate back from Mendtronix. The problem was diagnosed to be just as you guessed; the Ballast PWB. The part was listed at $195. They also are fixing my front IR receiver, cleaning optics, filters and testing all functions and updating firmware. The total came out to $495 plus $39 return shipping. That's not bad at all. I'll post again once everything is done.
Thanks for the info! I'm thinking that I have the same issue. I may try to replace that part myself to save on some money. I'll have to do a little more research, though. It's not such a bad cost, relatively. It's just a pain to dish out for a new bulb, then get hit with another $500+ to get the thing running again. Sounds like you're getting the full tune up. Should be running like a champ!
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post #10024 of 10051 Old 10-09-2014, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsmith808 View Post
Okay so I got the estimate back from Mendtronix. The problem was diagnosed to be just as you guessed; the Ballast PWB. The part was listed at $195. They also are fixing my front IR receiver, cleaning optics, filters and testing all functions and updating firmware. The total came out to $495 plus $39 return shipping. That's not bad at all. I'll post again once everything is done.
Looks like I paid over $250 more than you for the same power board and the front IR receiver repair. Like Joe Pesci once said in one of the Lethal Weapon remakes..."Screwed again in the drive through".

It's really weird that once per month Mendtronix sends me unsolicited "deals" on projector repairs since I got my RS 40 repaired 6months ago.
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post #10025 of 10051 Old 10-30-2014, 08:20 PM
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It's an epidemic

3 days ago front ir sensor stopped working. And now projector is flickering. Lamp is 2nd one with about 600 hours. All this after 3 years of perfect performance.

Why now?

How long was your projector gone at Mendtronics?

Just in case Ron Jones is right I unplugged overnight. Maybe tomorrow morning the nightmare will be over?
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post #10026 of 10051 Old 10-30-2014, 08:34 PM
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^ Quite a while back my image would start flickering off and on, drove me just about to the point of insanity.
I tried many things thinking it may be something in my setup, but nothing I did fixed it.
The only thing that would work is running the lamp in high power mode, so that is what I do now.
I am also getting a lot more hours out of the bulb running on high power too.
The previous bulbs ran on low power blew up very prematurely.
I don't really need the brighter image since the brightest setting on low power was sufficient for me,
and I don't like the fan noise, but I don't have much choice.
I'm pretty much waiting for the thing to just stop working all together soon, since that's the only thing left that hasn't broken.

The RS40 is just a lemon if there ever was one. A $5000 item that lasts 2 years, then the problems start piling up. Worst piece of gear I ever bought.

~Dave

...Theater Room Setup...
JVC DLA-RS40-U... Oppo BDP-105D... Toshiba HD-XA2... Uverse VIP-2250... Roku Streaming Stick... Emotiva XPA-3... Onkyo TX-SR805
JBL LC2 (x3) ... JBL L820 (x6) ... SVS PB10-ISD (x2) ... SVS 20-39-PCI
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post #10027 of 10051 Old 10-31-2014, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by console View Post
3 days ago front ir sensor stopped working. And now projector is flickering. Lamp is 2nd one with about 600 hours. All this after 3 years of perfect performance.

Why now?

How long was your projector gone at Mendtronics?

Just in case Ron Jones is right I unplugged overnight. Maybe tomorrow morning the nightmare will be over?
Try to open the side & top cabinets + the shield top and then clean the vent coolings fans & exhaust duct, (every things helping the cooling).
I do this for mine and then the issues have disappeared.
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post #10028 of 10051 Old 10-31-2014, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Degicank View Post
Thanks for the info! I'm thinking that I have the same issue. I may try to replace that part myself to save on some money. I'll have to do a little more research, though. It's not such a bad cost, relatively. It's just a pain to dish out for a new bulb, then get hit with another $500+ to get the thing running again. Sounds like you're getting the full tune up. Should be running like a champ!
Got my rs40 back from Mendtronics. Everything is working great. Once I gave then the approval to go ahead with the repair I had the pj back within a week. I thought the whole experience went well. Monique was very helpful.
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post #10029 of 10051 Old 10-31-2014, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post
Sometimes the lockup issues and perhaps even the front IR failures can be corrected by simply unplugging the projector and leaving it unplugged overnight. It appears that it takes several hours without power for these projectors to fully reset.
. I must admit that I read Mr. Jones comment about leaving projector unplugged overnight with great skepticism. But I did it anyway and, while my front or sensor still doesn't work, the flicker in the image has resolved and seems to be ok now. Thanks Ron!
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post #10030 of 10051 Old 11-25-2014, 09:09 AM
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Just thought I would post an update about long term usage.

This is not with my RS40, but a friends. He bought one of the B-Stock units from AVS 2-1/2+ years ago. Like many other people, the first lamp (002) popped. The warranty replaced 003 lamp went in the neighborhood of 5,000+ hours when it exploded. Exact hours are unknown since he reset the lamp counter more than once to clear the warning message. He is positive it was well past 4,000 hours.

Only issue he's had with the projector is the front IR receiver.

So not all of the RS40's are total duds...Some positive news for folks crossing their fingers in hopes their projector will keep shining for while longer.
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post #10031 of 10051 Old 11-25-2014, 09:46 AM
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Since being fixed in warranty my RS40 seems to have settled down. However, I have one issue that I wonder if any calibrators might help me on. My picture has taken on a bluish nature to it. Something you might expect with a color temp to high. So I lowered the color temp to 5500 and that didn't seem to change anything. A good example of this problem is when you see a background crowd at a football game. Usually the shade is in a gray/black tone. With mine it is a dark bluish tone. Is there a way to universally move the image to a warmer look without having to totally recalibrate?

Jack
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post #10032 of 10051 Old 11-28-2014, 02:03 PM
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After 2 years and just one bulb, my b-stock RS-40 is still going strong. (fingers crossed, knock on wood..)

I found a solid deal on a number of 3d titles and thought it might be a new way to enjoy some favorite old movies.

Is there a consensus on which emitter and glasses are best for this projector?
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post #10033 of 10051 Old 12-02-2014, 03:19 AM
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The 3d on this pj isn't worth it imho. The crosstalk is pretty bad. I also own a dlp 3d pj so I use that exclusively for 3d and the rs40 for 2d.

I just tried the xpand 105? with the emitter it comes with on the rs40. Ghosting city even after 1 hour warm-up. These are the highly recommended glasses for the newer jvc pj's. Since your bulb is older, it may exhibit even more ghosting.

Ghosting varies a little from unit to unit so hopefully you have one that's better than mine.
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post #10034 of 10051 Old 12-13-2014, 05:03 AM
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Hoping for some help here. I am one of the lucky people that really like my JVC X3 projector, love it actually, even with the initial lamp issues. I had never used the 3d option on the projector until last night - utter disappointment. I anticipated the brightness of the picture going down, which was ok, what I didn't anticipate was the total lack of color. I bought the xpand 105 glasses, a new oppo bdp103d for 3d viewing. Any suggestions on what I can do to get the color in the picture? The color and picture are/were phenomenal when not having the glasses on. Thanks for any help you can give.
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post #10035 of 10051 Old 12-13-2014, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ewelsh01 View Post
Hoping for some help here. I am one of the lucky people that really like my JVC X3 projector, love it actually, even with the initial lamp issues. I had never used the 3d option on the projector until last night - utter disappointment. I anticipated the brightness of the picture going down, which was ok, what I didn't anticipate was the total lack of color. I bought the xpand 105 glasses, a new oppo bdp103d for 3d viewing. Any suggestions on what I can do to get the color in the picture? The color and picture are/were phenomenal when not having the glasses on. Thanks for any help you can give.
Get yourself a good calibration disc. They even make some specifically for 3D.
(The S&M one that Oppo sells is a very good one for all your calibration needs.)
Then calibrate one of the pre-sets just for your 3D pic.
...or, call a professional and pay them to do a proper ISF calibration for you.

~Dave

...Theater Room Setup...
JVC DLA-RS40-U... Oppo BDP-105D... Toshiba HD-XA2... Uverse VIP-2250... Roku Streaming Stick... Emotiva XPA-3... Onkyo TX-SR805
JBL LC2 (x3) ... JBL L820 (x6) ... SVS PB10-ISD (x2) ... SVS 20-39-PCI
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post #10036 of 10051 Old 12-27-2014, 08:41 AM
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I have a B-stock RS40 for going on 3years now. Originally it acted goofy and I thought I would have to send it to Mendtronics but then the problems went away and so far so good. My front IR stopped working some time ago. I never noticed it as I always turn it on pointing the remote towards the rear.

I'm on the original bulb it came with and I'm looking to replace it before it goes out. I have the projector running on high power so time is really ticking. Is it that important to go with a $400 OEM bulb or one of the many replacement units? If so, which ones are worth investing in?
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post #10037 of 10051 Old 12-28-2014, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Ave View Post
I have a B-stock RS40 for going on 3years now. Originally it acted goofy and I thought I would have to send it to Mendtronics but then the problems went away and so far so good. My front IR stopped working some time ago. I never noticed it as I always turn it on pointing the remote towards the rear.

I'm on the original bulb it came with and I'm looking to replace it before it goes out. I have the projector running on high power so time is really ticking. Is it that important to go with a $400 OEM bulb or one of the many replacement units? If so, which ones are worth investing in?
In the long run, I think it is best to just order an oem from AVS. That is what I did and I couldn't be happier. Other options are a crap shoot.

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post #10038 of 10051 Old 12-29-2014, 03:49 AM
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In the long run, I think it is best to just order an oem from AVS. That is what I did and I couldn't be happier. Other options are a crap shoot.


I'd also go OEM, the RS40 is a troubled little beastie anyway, I wouldn't mess with it by using anything off-brand to save a few hundred bucks.
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post #10039 of 10051 Old 12-29-2014, 09:55 AM
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About X3 we find on the original lamp support a device connecting 2 borders of the lamp.
It is constituted by a thread, a cylinder and a mini glass tube.
Have you an idea of its function?
Have we to let it at the same place when we reuse the support and a new lamp (the Philips one)?
Thank you for your help.
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post #10040 of 10051 Old 01-22-2015, 05:23 AM
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Unhappy JVC X3 flashes(

Hello!
An unpleasant problem.
Image flashes. Example
1. Tried to replace the lamp
2. Flashes menu and picture
3. The firmware has been updated to version 1.8
Help with ideas what the problem is?
Thank U!
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post #10041 of 10051 Old 01-22-2015, 08:59 PM
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^ Do you have the lamp setting at low power or high power mode?
Mine would flicker like that and I would switch it to high power and back to low again and that would fix it for a while.
Then it got worse and after going though a few lamps that all burnt out prematurely (2 of them literally exploded),
I finally just started using high power 24/7 and now the flicker hasn't returned and I am racking up more hours than I
have with all the other lamps combined. Perhaps I just got lucky and got a decent lamp this time,
or maybe high power fixed some of the horrible issues with the pj, but something to try if you are using low power.

~Dave

...Theater Room Setup...
JVC DLA-RS40-U... Oppo BDP-105D... Toshiba HD-XA2... Uverse VIP-2250... Roku Streaming Stick... Emotiva XPA-3... Onkyo TX-SR805
JBL LC2 (x3) ... JBL L820 (x6) ... SVS PB10-ISD (x2) ... SVS 20-39-PCI
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post #10042 of 10051 Old 03-26-2015, 01:28 PM
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I recently started getting flickering @ around 760 hours. Contacted my seller and he recomened running it on high, which worked for about 3-4 movies, and now its flickering again. Ordered a new lamp, should be in tomorrow.

Front IR stopped working about 200 hours ago or so, and now, sometimes the rear IR is either way delayed or doesn't pick up, but trying to press any of the manual buttons on the back does nothing as well, its just locked up.

Is there a temp range that we should be watching? Min is in a box with completely open front and rear, but not a ton of space surrounding the projector walls. Wondering if overheating is the issue.
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post #10043 of 10051 Old 03-26-2015, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billz260 View Post
I recently started getting flickering @ around 760 hours. Contacted my seller and he recomened running it on high, which worked for about 3-4 movies, and now its flickering again. Ordered a new lamp, should be in tomorrow.

Front IR stopped working about 200 hours ago or so, and now, sometimes the rear IR is either way delayed or doesn't pick up, but trying to press any of the manual buttons on the back does nothing as well, its just locked up.

Is there a temp range that we should be watching? Min is in a box with completely open front and rear, but not a ton of space surrounding the projector walls. Wondering if overheating is the issue.


Hi, you have capacitor fitted the wrong way round on the infrared sensor board.
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post #10044 of 10051 Old 03-26-2015, 06:13 PM
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Do you have any more details? Is there another thread that details this? Thanks!
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post #10045 of 10051 Old 03-26-2015, 11:18 PM
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https://www.avforums.com/threads/jvc-x3-help.1881555/

Same problem on my RS50 (x7). Open the case, and fit a new capacitor in the right way. It's set on the small front board, near the three led. You can see (+) and (-) on the board beside the capacitor, and check the right position. Black strip on the capacitor = (-)
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post #10046 of 10051 Old 04-27-2015, 10:42 AM
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I am starting to suffer from recurring incidents of the projector going non-responsive except for the center LED flashing orange (one flash) and outer two LEDs solid red. Unplugging overnight gets things back up and running. I have a backup bulb (two actually...one quite dim, one new) and swapping the bulb makes no difference for this particular problem. Only a prolonged period of time unplugged brings it back. Then it runs fine for a week or two before needing this resuscitation once again.

I am loathe to send the unit to Mendtronix. Feels like throwing good money after bad.

Has anyone done any DIY repairs for this problem? I've seen the posts about the Ballast PWB being a point of failure. Has anyone sourced and replaced this part themselves? I'm handy with a screwdriver, soldering iron, and multimeter but am not a trained electronics technician

I will probably open the case up for a deeper clean of the cooling fans and other elements if/when the problem increases in frequency, and slap in whatever the latest firmware may be as a bit of a shotgun hope-and-a-prayer measure.

Barring a fix, I was starting to check out the X500 (or RS4910 model AVScience sells) but seeing the issues posted on that owners' thread is making me question my JVC brand loyalty. The RS40 is my 3rd JVC projector over maybe 12 years. They are wonderful when they are working....but...what would you consider buying now at the sub $4000 price point to rival the JVC blacks and overall picture quality but with higher reliability? 3D is unimportant to me, but short throw is very important as my space is right at the short throw limit for the RS4910 and RS40.
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post #10047 of 10051 Old Yesterday, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patja View Post
I am starting to suffer from recurring incidents of the projector going non-responsive except for the center LED flashing orange (one flash) and outer two LEDs solid red. Unplugging overnight gets things back up and running. I have a backup bulb (two actually...one quite dim, one new) and swapping the bulb makes no difference for this particular problem. Only a prolonged period of time unplugged brings it back. Then it runs fine for a week or two before needing this resuscitation once again.

I am loathe to send the unit to Mendtronix. Feels like throwing good money after bad.

Has anyone done any DIY repairs for this problem? I've seen the posts about the Ballast PWB being a point of failure. Has anyone sourced and replaced this part themselves? I'm handy with a screwdriver, soldering iron, and multimeter but am not a trained electronics technician

I will probably open the case up for a deeper clean of the cooling fans and other elements if/when the problem increases in frequency, and slap in whatever the latest firmware may be as a bit of a shotgun hope-and-a-prayer measure.

Barring a fix, I was starting to check out the X500 (or RS4910 model AVScience sells) but seeing the issues posted on that owners' thread is making me question my JVC brand loyalty. The RS40 is my 3rd JVC projector over maybe 12 years. They are wonderful when they are working....but...what would you consider buying now at the sub $4000 price point to rival the JVC blacks and overall picture quality but with higher reliability? 3D is unimportant to me, but short throw is very important as my space is right at the short throw limit for the RS4910 and RS40.
I would definitely upgrade the firmware before you go any further.

Speakers: Klipsch RF-7II(2), Klipsch RC-64II, Klipsch RS-62II(2), Velodyne HGS-15, HSU VTF-15H, Klipsch Cornwalls(2)
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Amps: Emotiva XPA-5, Emotiva XPA-3(2)
OPPO BDP-103
JVC DLA-X3 (121" screen)
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post #10048 of 10051 Old Yesterday, 12:44 PM
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I would definitely upgrade the firmware before you go any further.
I had similar problems with my RS40 and updating the firmware seemed to settle it down. I rarely have problems with it anymore.

Jack
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post #10049 of 10051 Old Yesterday, 01:34 PM
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I had similar problems with my RS40 and updating the firmware seemed to settle it down. I rarely have problems with it anymore.
OK sounds like a good plan. Is the latest firmware this 1.8 file from France or is there a more official place to get it:
http://www.touslesdrivers.com/index....3&v_code=39893

This page from JVC just has 1.5:
http://pro.jvc.com/prof/support/productupdate.jsp
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post #10050 of 10051 Old Yesterday, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patja View Post
OK sounds like a good plan. Is the latest firmware this 1.8 file from France or is there a more official place to get it:
http://www.touslesdrivers.com/index....3&v_code=39893

This page from JVC just has 1.5:
http://pro.jvc.com/prof/support/productupdate.jsp
I don't know where I got it but I believe it's 1.8. As I recall it is not a simple process so read the instructions carefully. They are not as intuitive as one would like and you are never quite sure if it took, as I recall. To check to see what version you have is a complicated process I think so it's hard to verify that it took.

Jack
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