Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 336 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10051 of 10307 Old 05-23-2015, 11:02 PM
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Lamp light blinking and warning light lit...PJ won't come on..

Like may fellow RS40/X3 owners, I had been very happy with my AVSF purchase (circa 2011). However, for some reason, the standby light turns green when turned on for about a minute, after which it turns red (along with the warning light) and the lamp light continues to blink. The PJ shutter remains open even after an attempt to shut it down.

Does this mean that it's time to replace the bulb?

Note that:

  1. The bulb had < 1000 hours on it (it's sparingly, but regularly used)
  2. There was NO prior lamp life warning prior to the incident
  3. A visual inspection of the bulb failed to reveal anything obvious and the filament looked intact (however that may not be the criteria for a burnout)


Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. TIA...
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post #10052 of 10307 Old 05-24-2015, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foofoobar View Post
Like may fellow RS40/X3 owners, I had been very happy with my AVSF purchase (circa 2011). However, for some reason, the standby light turns green when turned on for about a minute, after which it turns red (along with the warning light) and the lamp light continues to blink. The PJ shutter remains open even after an attempt to shut it down.

Does this mean that it's time to replace the bulb?

Note that:

  1. The bulb had < 1000 hours on it (it's sparingly, but regularly used)
  2. There was NO prior lamp life warning prior to the incident
  3. A visual inspection of the bulb failed to reveal anything obvious and the filament looked intact (however that may not be the criteria for a burnout)


Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. TIA...
I know that you must know that this has been documented many times in this thread. Ante up for a new motherboard or power supply/ballast. As a free alternative before you go to that extreme try loading the latest firmware. You can find that at JVC under the UK region, I think. You need an old Windows PC to do it. Check this thread for these details as it has also been discussed many times.

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post #10053 of 10307 Old 05-25-2015, 05:23 AM
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lens position calibration

Will the lens position calibration procedure below work if the projector is not perfectly level and have its light centre axis aligned at 90 degrees to the plane of the screen? So, for example, my x3 is aligned at a slight angle to the screen and I use the feet to get it level to the screen.

Does anyone know if, or how, the lens position gearing can be damaged by using lens shift towards extremes?

Is there any image quality impact from using a slight amount of lens shift?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post


Quote:
Quote: Originally Posted by JonStatt:
If the lens wasn't centered properly at the factory this can be corrected. Move the lens to what you believe it "true centre". Then go into the service menu and select "reset lens data". This will set the new central lens position to wherever the lens is currently. This should then obtain the movement that you require.
I have an idea of how to tell if you have your projector truly set for zero lens shift. I haven't actually tried this, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. First find any test pattern (from the AVS HD Calibration disc or any other test disc such as DVE) where the center of the image is clearly identifed. If you have true zero vertical and horizontal lens shift then as you zoom in and out the center of the projected image will remain at the same point on the screen. If the image center moves up or down you do not actually have zero vertical lens offset and/or if it moves right or left then you do not actually have zero horizontal lens shift. Once you find the vertical and horizontal lens shift settings that keeps the center point of the projected image stationary as you zoom in and out then you have found the correct settings to provide zero lens offset. If you then feel it necessary you should be able to go into the JVC projector's service menu and reset the center point for lens shift to the position you have come up with.

Anyone see a reason this wouldn't work?

Last edited by Sithuk; 05-25-2015 at 05:29 AM.
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post #10054 of 10307 Old 05-25-2015, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackB View Post
I know that you must know that this has been documented many times in this thread. Ante up for a new motherboard or power supply/ballast. As a free alternative before you go to that extreme try loading the latest firmware. You can find that at JVC under the UK region, I think. You need an old Windows PC to do it. Check this thread for these details as it has also been discussed many times.
JackB,

Thanks -- since the problem hasn't been resolved after an upgrade to 1.8, guess it's repair time .

A couple of things to note:

  1. The update tool flashed the FW without errors, but it couldn't get the FW version (error 50) (am assuming the update still worked). Has anyone tried getting the FW version (couldn't find anything on the thread)
  2. The tool can be made to work on any 32-bit version of Windows (including 8.1), but requires a little bit of work. If someone is stuck and doesn't have access to Windows XP, drop me a PM
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post #10055 of 10307 Old 06-02-2015, 02:08 AM
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Has anyone ever experienced the menu not being central on the screen?

There are a number of menu positions that can be set in the options (five?). The centre option is off to the left of centre on my screen, the other options are similarly "offset" to the left of the screen centre.

I have recently updated to the 1.8 firmware.

How do I re-centre the menu positons?
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post #10056 of 10307 Old 06-02-2015, 01:28 PM
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Hey I haven't been on here in years so I have a question I am sure got answered a while ago that is almost impossible to go back in find now that this thread is long:

I have owned the JVC DLA RS40 since early 2011 shortly after it was released and have not changed the bulb yet. I am one of the few who have not had any major issues with the projector over the years, but now that I have crossed over 2000 hours on the bulb and the picture definitely not as bright as before I am looking to replace the bulb. I see AVS has a bulb listed on their site (http://shop.avscience.com/JVC-PK-L22...amp_p_354.html) which I believe is the compatible replacement bulb for this projector. If I was to buy straight from them would it be the updated bulb with a flap that I have read about over the last few years that supposedly fixes some of the early issues with the projector?

Also I have not updated my firmware on the projector since 2011 when the first firmware was released. I did it running Windows XP on a MacBook Pro through Bootcamp. Of course I now have an updated Retina MacBook Pro which I believe is 64bit. I believe I still have the Windows XP disc so if I was to try to do the same thing do you know if it will work to update the firmware to 1.8? Not sure if someone has tried this already.
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post #10057 of 10307 Old 06-02-2015, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolt View Post
Hey I haven't been on here in years so I have a question I am sure got answered a while ago that is almost impossible to go back in find now that this thread is long:

I have owned the JVC DLA RS40 since early 2011 shortly after it was released and have not changed the bulb yet. I am one of the few who have not had any major issues with the projector over the years, but now that I have crossed over 2000 hours on the bulb and the picture definitely not as bright as before I am looking to replace the bulb. I see AVS has a bulb listed on their site (http://shop.avscience.com/JVC-PK-L22...amp_p_354.html) which I believe is the compatible replacement bulb for this projector. If I was to buy straight from them would it be the updated bulb with a flap that I have read about over the last few years that supposedly fixes some of the early issues with the projector?

Also I have not updated my firmware on the projector since 2011 when the first firmware was released. I did it running Windows XP on a MacBook Pro through Bootcamp. Of course I now have an updated Retina MacBook Pro which I believe is 64bit. I believe I still have the Windows XP disc so if I was to try to do the same thing do you know if it will work to update the firmware to 1.8? Not sure if someone has tried this already.
I just now saw this post and I sent you an email right before seeing it. . Yes that is the lamp and yes it is the one with the flapper. As for the update. If it is not broken, do not try to fix. In other words, I would not update the projector, since yours has been trouble free.

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post #10058 of 10307 Old 06-02-2015, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
I just now saw this post and I sent you an email right before seeing it. . Yes that is the lamp and yes it is the one with the flapper. As for the update. If it is not broken, do not try to fix. In other words, I would not update the projector, since yours has been trouble free.
Ah cool I will definitely purchase a new bulb. As for issues with the projector the only issue I have is sometimes the projector will freeze and I will have to unplug it and replug it back in to get it to be responsive again. This tends to happen when I have the projector on for a long period of time (2+ hours).
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post #10059 of 10307 Old 06-02-2015, 09:30 PM
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^ That is still almost trouble free compared to others.
I would definitely agree with Mike and also recommend that you do not fuss with the firmware at this point.
It could be harmless but at the same time may also let ghosts into the machine to reek havoc, and that would be very bad.

I would also recommend getting that new lamp right away if you are going to get one anyway.
A good thing to do is to actually change the lamp BEFORE the old one burns out.
When a lamp goes out, it can sometimes explode (like it did to me TWICE on my RS40).
Not only that, but if you take out the one that's in use now, you will then have a backup bulb in case your new one dies
prematurely (or at any time for that matter). Then you can put the old one back in until you get another new one.
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post #10060 of 10307 Old 06-06-2015, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by foofoobar View Post
The update tool flashed the FW without errors, but it couldn't get the FW version (error 50) (am assuming the update still worked). Has anyone tried getting the FW version (couldn't find anything on the thread)
In the firmware update troubleshooting instructions at the end of the pdf it says you will get error 50 if you try to get the FW version while in download mode, and that you need to have the projector displaying in normal operation to use the software to report the FW version. So it says. I haven't been able to get mine into normal operation mode yet since updating the FW. Grr.

I just updated my FW to 1.8 after seeing an increase in incidents of the shutdown followed by solid-blink-solid LED issue. First powerup after updating the FW yielded this same problem, so I'm not sure updating the FW is a solution to this particular problem.
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post #10061 of 10307 Old 06-18-2015, 11:32 PM
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Question 1
I have begun experiencing brightness (or more correctly, luminance) stability issues with my X3. The bulb is an original bulb and has approx 450h on it. Is brightness stability an issue with the v1 bulbs once the hours get to where mine are, or is there likely to be another problem?

Question 2
The lens cover mechanism emits high pitched mechanical squeaks when it opens and closes. Has anyone had a similar issue? Is it straightforward to fix with a bit of dry lubricant on slides or a bearing somewhere internally?
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post #10062 of 10307 Old 06-30-2015, 11:58 AM
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I just wanted to share here some results of a mostly lock-up free RS40

Basically, I know I need to replace the MB, I have had all the frustrating symptoms that have been noted. The locking up and not responding to any remote inputs, as well as the front IR receiver going out.

Anyway, over the past few months, i have been very diligent and making sure my receiver was both ON, and set to the source input (also being on) I wanted BEFORE turning on the RS40. Since I have started doing this, I have not had one lock up and thus less frustration, and more hours in the basement!

Around the same time I started this new procedure, I put a new bulb in, but I do remember it locking up and not really fixing much other than the brightness, save for one where it locked up upon toggling through inputs.

You might try this procedure before you take it in for service.

Another thought is to try Component Inputs vs. HDMI, My opinion is that this all has to do with HDCP. Has anyone with component inputs had this issue?
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post #10063 of 10307 Old 07-02-2015, 04:17 PM
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^ Pretty much everything you mention could have been fixed with firmware revisions,
and yes a lot of it is HDCP and handshaking related.
Yes it is good to make sure all other gear is on before firing up the pj. That will usually solve most handshaking issues.

JVC just completely dropped the ball on this pj though IMO.
Once the lamp issue was revealed, they just gave up on all of it and left us hanging.
As a result my next pj will not be a JVC. Bad product + bad service = no sale.
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post #10064 of 10307 Old 07-11-2015, 01:51 PM
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OK, so is there such thing as a reliable non-JVC lamp for the RS40, or do I just pony-up the $400 for the JVC one?

Also...yes for the record, my RS40's front IR and motherboard died, but it happened within 2 years so under warranty. (Mendtronics said it was only a one-year as it was b-stock from AVS, but Mike stepped in and set them straight)
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post #10065 of 10307 Old 07-14-2015, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Albert View Post
OK, so is there such thing as a reliable non-JVC lamp for the RS40, or do I just pony-up the $400 for the JVC one?

Also...yes for the record, my RS40's front IR and motherboard died, but it happened within 2 years so under warranty. (Mendtronics said it was only a one-year as it was b-stock from AVS, but Mike stepped in and set them straight)
I'm pretty sure you need to get that JVC one. I ended up having to return a $300 bulb that had terrible uniformity issues. It looked like someone took an old JVC module and put a cheap bulb in it. I went with genuine JVC and the brightness and uniformity were like night and day compared to the other one.
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post #10066 of 10307 Old 07-15-2015, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Albert View Post
OK, so is there such thing as a reliable non-JVC lamp for the RS40, or do I just pony-up the $400 for the JVC one?

Also...yes for the record, my RS40's front IR and motherboard died, but it happened within 2 years so under warranty. (Mendtronics said it was only a one-year as it was b-stock from AVS, but Mike stepped in and set them straight)

I bought a new genuine lamp for rs40 from a seller on eBay for about 180ish shipped. It was genuine as described and was the newer flapper version


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post #10067 of 10307 Old 07-15-2015, 04:44 AM
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I bought a new genuine lamp for rs40 from a seller on eBay for about 180ish shipped. It was genuine as described and was the newer flapper version


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Thanks for the reply, problem is how do you know when you buy in eBay of its a genuine JVC or not?
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post #10068 of 10307 Old 07-15-2015, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by stumlad View Post
I bought a new genuine lamp for rs40 from a seller on eBay for about 180ish shipped. It was genuine as described and was the newer flapper version


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Well riddle me this then. We buy direct from JVC and the selling price above is less than half our cost for an OEM lamp module. Something just does not add up.

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post #10069 of 10307 Old 07-16-2015, 03:57 AM
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Well riddle me this then. We buy direct from JVC and the selling price above is less than half our cost for an OEM lamp module. Something just does not add up.
I agree...sorry to seem such a tight-ass on this...$400 for a lamp all of a sudden seems like a bit of a hit. Was wondering but definitely not going to buy a dodgy third party one.

Bring on laser projectors!
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post #10070 of 10307 Old 07-21-2015, 05:48 AM
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So lamp just died. Projector door opened and then stayed open with lamp light blinking. Disconnected power etc etc but no go, would not start and door stayed open. Buddy had a spare lamp on hand so put that in and the pj fired-up.

1450 hours and it was the newer 'flapper' model. About 6 months ago the lamp started flickering sometimes so I switched to high lamp mode and the flicker stopped.

For a lamp that is supposed to go to 3,000 hours pretty lame (Although I would have changed around 2,000 because of the fall-off) Amazing picture out of this pj, but as has been noted a number of times here a bit of a lemon, just hoping it lasts a few more years so 4k laser becomes affordable.

Also..yes the front IR died and so did the motherboard but it happened just before the warranty ran out.

Just FYI.
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post #10071 of 10307 Old 07-22-2015, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Albert View Post
So lamp just died. Projector door opened and then stayed open with lamp light blinking. Disconnected power etc etc but no go, would not start and door stayed open. Buddy had a spare lamp on hand so put that in and the pj fired-up.

1450 hours and it was the newer 'flapper' model. About 6 months ago the lamp started flickering sometimes so I switched to high lamp mode and the flicker stopped.

For a lamp that is supposed to go to 3,000 hours pretty lame (Although I would have changed around 2,000 because of the fall-off) Amazing picture out of this pj, but as has been noted a number of times here a bit of a lemon, just hoping it lasts a few more years so 4k laser becomes affordable.

Also..yes the front IR died and so did the motherboard but it happened just before the warranty ran out.

Just FYI.
A few things you may find interesting...

I also had problems with flickering, and did the same as you did, switched to high lamp mode which seemed to fix it.
Sometimes I would put it back on low, but the flickering would usually return sooner than later.
Aside from that, I have had 3 different bulbs that blew fairly quickly.
Granted two of them were used, but they both had around 500 hours before I installed them.
I continued to have flickering issues though, and a good educated guess from me is that this issue,
along with premature death of bulbs, is due to HEAT, and I say that because...
With the current lamp I am using, I have kept it on high lamp mode the entire time,
and the flickering has not returned, and I have put several hundred hours on it and it's still going strong.
Maybe it's just coincidence, but I'm just going to keep it like that and just live with the louder fan noise.
(What choice do I really have with this lemon...)

Also, my front IR sensor went dead once too, and as someone else here suggested, I unplugged the pj
overnight (actually it was a couple days since I didn't need to use it again until then).
After I did that, the IR sensor worked again.
So, next time you know you won't use your pj for a day or two, pull the power cable from it and let it sit unplugged
and see if maybe that will fix you IR issue.
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post #10072 of 10307 Old 07-23-2015, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
A few things you may find interesting...

I also had problems with flickering, and did the same as you did, switched to high lamp mode which seemed to fix it.
Sometimes I would put it back on low, but the flickering would usually return sooner than later.
Aside from that, I have had 3 different bulbs that blew fairly quickly.
Granted two of them were used, but they both had around 500 hours before I installed them.
I continued to have flickering issues though, and a good educated guess from me is that this issue,
along with premature death of bulbs, is due to HEAT, and I say that because...
With the current lamp I am using, I have kept it on high lamp mode the entire time,
and the flickering has not returned, and I have put several hundred hours on it and it's still going strong.
Maybe it's just coincidence, but I'm just going to keep it like that and just live with the louder fan noise.
(What choice do I really have with this lemon...)

Also, my front IR sensor went dead once too, and as someone else here suggested, I unplugged the pj
overnight (actually it was a couple days since I didn't need to use it again until then).
After I did that, the IR sensor worked again.
So, next time you know you won't use your pj for a day or two, pull the power cable from it and let it sit unplugged
and see if maybe that will fix you IR issue.
Anyone know if running it at high altitude mode would help? That runs the fan harder but the lamp at standard brightness correct?

If the new lamp I just put gets 1,400 hours I'm not worried. If it gets 400 hours then it's a problem.

Is the RS40 the only model with these issues?
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post #10073 of 10307 Old 07-23-2015, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Albert View Post
Anyone know if running it at high altitude mode would help? That runs the fan harder but the lamp at standard brightness correct?

If the new lamp I just put gets 1,400 hours I'm not worried. If it gets 400 hours then it's a problem.

Is the RS40 the only model with these issues?
I run mine at high altitude mode and the projector is still quiet. Try it. Does it help? Who knows. Does it hurt? Don't think so.

There is a thread in this forum on HDMI handshake issues on all the newer models. Many of the problems look very similar to this well documented lemon. So no, the RS40 isn't the only model with issues. However, that being said, since my MB and maybe ballast were replaced under warranty, and the latest firmware version installed, I have not had any problems. I don't use it very much though since I added an LED projector to the mix.

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post #10074 of 10307 Old 07-23-2015, 12:19 PM
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Someone told me about this trick with my RS1 and it worked. Remove the lamp from the projector and clean the contacts on the lamp and projector. The heat tends to oxidize the contacts and cleaning them eliminated my flickering. I had to use DeOxit spray or liquid. Apply it to a Q-Tip and clean the contacts, do NOT spray inside the unit itself.

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #10075 of 10307 Old 08-22-2015, 04:52 PM
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Front IR out, Flashing, lockups -FIXED

For what its worth...

I red through some of this dauntingly long thread and didn't see this, so I apologize if it has been posted before.

I have a DLA-X3 that I purchased new in 2011. I only got about 700 hours out of the original bulb. We don't use it a lot, so it was in 2014 that we replaced the bulb. About 600 hours into the new bulb, the front IR receiver went out. Also at the same time it began flickering and locking up. This all seemed oddly coincidental. I disassembled the projector and looked at the front IR/LED board and noticed a 47uf 25V surface mount capacitor was installed backwards. I have attached a photo of that board. With the unit working for about 1300 hours, the capacitor finally failed. It measures as a 120 ohm resistor both directions. So, not only was it no longer a capacitor, it was also loading the 3.3V supply down, measuring about 1.9 volts. There is a 47 ohm resistor in series with the supply to this capacitor so the 3.3 volt power supply was loaded with about 167 ohms. Not enough to do any damage, but it could affect other items on that line.


I replaced the capacitor installing it in the correct direction, cleaned the inside and outside of the projector and reassembled it. I also updated the firmware to V1.8 using an old PC I installed Windows XP on. I reinstalled the projector on the ceiling mount and tested it. The front IR works, there is no flickering and it no longer locks up, so the effort was a success.

You will see in the attached photo that the stripe on the capacitor which denotes the "+" end is connected to the ground side of the board. It should be mounted the other way. A capacitor will not work when installed backwards, but it takes some time before it will fail. When it fails it will usually short or get very low resistance.
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post #10076 of 10307 Old 08-22-2015, 07:40 PM
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For what its worth...

I red through some of this dauntingly long thread and didn't see this, so I apologize if it has been posted before.

I have a DLA-X3 that I purchased new in 2011. I only got about 700 hours out of the original bulb. We don't use it a lot, so it was in 2014 that we replaced the bulb. About 600 hours into the new bulb, the front IR receiver went out. Also at the same time it began flickering and locking up. This all seemed oddly coincidental. I disassembled the projector and looked at the front IR/LED board and noticed a 47uf 25V surface mount capacitor was installed backwards. I have attached a photo of that board. With the unit working for about 1300 hours, the capacitor finally failed. It measures as a 120 ohm resistor both directions. So, not only was it no longer a capacitor, it was also loading the 3.3V supply down, measuring about 1.9 volts. There is a 47 ohm resistor in series with the supply to this capacitor so the 3.3 volt power supply was loaded with about 167 ohms. Not enough to do any damage, but it could affect other items on that line.


I replaced the capacitor installing it in the correct direction, cleaned the inside and outside of the projector and reassembled it. I also updated the firmware to V1.8 using an old PC I installed Windows XP on. I reinstalled the projector on the ceiling mount and tested it. The front IR works, there is no flickering and it no longer locks up, so the effort was a success.

You will see in the attached photo that the stripe on the capacitor which denotes the "+" end is connected to the ground side of the board. It should be mounted the other way. A capacitor will not work when installed backwards, but it takes some time before it will fail. When it fails it will usually short or get very low resistance.
Unbelievable! Could it be incorrect manufacturing/assembly instructions caused this capacitor to be incorrectly installed. Because so many had these exact symptoms then wrong instructions would make sense. I wonder if JVC ever figured this out. I know I'm stretching things a little here but I suspect they figured it out that the failure was often down the hours used line, like the poster said, and decided to take their chances instead of issuing a recall. Too bad.

Jack
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post #10077 of 10307 Old 08-22-2015, 10:48 PM
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Unbelievable! Could it be incorrect manufacturing/assembly instructions caused this capacitor to be incorrectly installed. Because so many had these exact symptoms then wrong instructions would make sense. I wonder if JVC ever figured this out. I know I'm stretching things a little here but I suspect they figured it out that the failure was often down the hours used line, like the poster said, and decided to take their chances instead of issuing a recall. Too bad.
Since those components are tape fed for automatic placement, it is likely there could be one or more complete runs of that board with the defect. It would depend on whether a spool was simply loaded wrong or if someone messed up on the component placement program. Since that capacitor's job is just noise suppression on the supply to the IR receiver, it is unlikely there would be any symptoms until it begins to breakdown and leak. This problem could easily be in 1000s of boards.
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post #10078 of 10307 Old 08-23-2015, 08:30 AM
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Since those components are tape fed for automatic placement, it is likely there could be one or more complete runs of that board with the defect. It would depend on whether a spool was simply loaded wrong or if someone messed up on the component placement program. Since that capacitor's job is just noise suppression on the supply to the IR receiver, it is unlikely there would be any symptoms until it begins to breakdown and leak. This problem could easily be in 1000s of boards.
That's my point. It's not until later that the problem shows up. Based on my conversation at CES in 2014 with a couple of JVC VP's, and they were blue-suited gray haired types, they were not sympathetic. Arrogant is the best feeling I got when talking to them. The same symptoms have plagued the next couple of series too.

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post #10079 of 10307 Old 08-23-2015, 10:32 AM
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That is an interesting discovery, thanks for posting. Nice to see DIY fixes for a factory mistake.

They were arrogant too about the lamp issues that plagued the 40/45 series, do you recall how vocal everyone finally became in the forum. They were eventually giving out lamp replacements left and right. Thankfully they finally fixed the issue when the RS46 was released.
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post #10080 of 10307 Old 08-23-2015, 06:06 PM
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That is an interesting discovery, thanks for posting. Nice to see DIY fixes for a factory mistake.

They were arrogant too about the lamp issues that plagued the 40/45 series, do you recall how vocal everyone finally became in the forum. They were eventually giving out lamp replacements left and right. Thankfully they finally fixed the issue when the RS46 was released.
Although I don't regularly follow the other JVC threads for the newer projectors, from time to time I catch bits and pieces of comments by owners. It seems like they all have issues that although they aren't the same still seem to carry the same level of disruption and frustration we have seen with the early models.

I know that when right the image is very good, although not perfect; at least on the lower end models. I know that my RS40 changes color slightly after a couple hours of watching and my isf pro turned me down when I asked him to calibrate it. He said it was too difficult to dial in and has proved to take too long for the price he charges, which is not cheap.

I haven't wandered over there but I wonder if the Sonys have their own set of problems.

Jack
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