Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 337 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10081 of 10211 Old 08-25-2015, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by foofoobar View Post
JackB,

Thanks -- since the problem hasn't been resolved after an upgrade to 1.8, guess it's repair time .

A couple of things to note:

  1. The update tool flashed the FW without errors, but it couldn't get the FW version (error 50) (am assuming the update still worked). Has anyone tried getting the FW version (couldn't find anything on the thread)
  2. The tool can be made to work on any 32-bit version of Windows (including 8.1), but requires a little bit of work. If someone is stuck and doesn't have access to Windows XP, drop me a PM
Hi,

we seem to have the same problem with the x3 and I was wondering whether so sort it out.
The power unit seems to be ok giving out 380VDC during boot, but the lamp wont light and I get the flashing orange led. Probably something with the ballast.
Did you get yours fixed?

Thanks for any feedback

Best regards
Dimitris
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post #10082 of 10211 Old 08-25-2015, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karalisd View Post
Hi,

we seem to have the same problem with the x3 and I was wondering whether so sort it out.
The power unit seems to be ok giving out 380VDC during boot, but the lamp wont light and I get the flashing orange led. Probably something with the ballast.
Did you get yours fixed?

Thanks for any feedback

Best regards
Dimitris
Haven't fixed it yet . Been meaning to dismount it and send it to the repair shop, but it takes a helper, etc...hopefully soon though.
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post #10083 of 10211 Old 09-19-2015, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rprade View Post
For what its worth...

I red through some of this dauntingly long thread and didn't see this, so I apologize if it has been posted before.

I have a DLA-X3 that I purchased new in 2011. I only got about 700 hours out of the original bulb. We don't use it a lot, so it was in 2014 that we replaced the bulb. About 600 hours into the new bulb, the front IR receiver went out. Also at the same time it began flickering and locking up. This all seemed oddly coincidental. I disassembled the projector and looked at the front IR/LED board and noticed a 47uf 25V surface mount capacitor was installed backwards. I have attached a photo of that board. With the unit working for about 1300 hours, the capacitor finally failed. It measures as a 120 ohm resistor both directions. So, not only was it no longer a capacitor, it was also loading the 3.3V supply down, measuring about 1.9 volts. There is a 47 ohm resistor in series with the supply to this capacitor so the 3.3 volt power supply was loaded with about 167 ohms. Not enough to do any damage, but it could affect other items on that line.


I replaced the capacitor installing it in the correct direction, cleaned the inside and outside of the projector and reassembled it. I also updated the firmware to V1.8 using an old PC I installed Windows XP on. I reinstalled the projector on the ceiling mount and tested it. The front IR works, there is no flickering and it no longer locks up, so the effort was a success.

You will see in the attached photo that the stripe on the capacitor which denotes the "+" end is connected to the ground side of the board. It should be mounted the other way. A capacitor will not work when installed backwards, but it takes some time before it will fail. When it fails it will usually short or get very low resistance.
As another data point. MyRS40's front ir sensor got flaky and then stopped working entirely. Soon thereafter I started having issues with lockups during boot and when switching resolutions via hdmi. I opened it up and sure enough the capacitor on the IR board was blown. It measured 1k ohms. The capacitor was installed as the the silkscreen on the board indicated it should be. This connects the + side o the capacitor to the ground plane (which I assume is tied to ground although I did not measure this). I installed a new capacitor the other way around and all is working again! Front ir sensor works and no lock ups. My guess is that the engineer who designed the circuit connected the capacitor backwards on the schematic and this mistake was never caught. Thus this is an engineering not a manufacturing error. This also means that it is likely that every projector that they have made that used this board will eventually have this issue. At a minimum JVC should be offering free replacement boards to customers.
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post #10084 of 10211 Old 09-21-2015, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rprade View Post
For what its worth...

I red through some of this dauntingly long thread and didn't see this, so I apologize if it has been posted before.

I have a DLA-X3 that I purchased new in 2011. I only got about 700 hours out of the original bulb. We don't use it a lot, so it was in 2014 that we replaced the bulb. About 600 hours into the new bulb, the front IR receiver went out. Also at the same time it began flickering and locking up. This all seemed oddly coincidental. I disassembled the projector and looked at the front IR/LED board and noticed a 47uf 25V surface mount capacitor was installed backwards. I have attached a photo of that board. With the unit working for about 1300 hours, the capacitor finally failed. It measures as a 120 ohm resistor both directions. So, not only was it no longer a capacitor, it was also loading the 3.3V supply down, measuring about 1.9 volts. There is a 47 ohm resistor in series with the supply to this capacitor so the 3.3 volt power supply was loaded with about 167 ohms. Not enough to do any damage, but it could affect other items on that line.


I replaced the capacitor installing it in the correct direction, cleaned the inside and outside of the projector and reassembled it. I also updated the firmware to V1.8 using an old PC I installed Windows XP on. I reinstalled the projector on the ceiling mount and tested it. The front IR works, there is no flickering and it no longer locks up, so the effort was a success.

You will see in the attached photo that the stripe on the capacitor which denotes the "+" end is connected to the ground side of the board. It should be mounted the other way. A capacitor will not work when installed backwards, but it takes some time before it will fail. When it fails it will usually short or get very low resistance.

I have experienced the same flickering issues that many have faced. When the flickering happens, the front IR is unresponsive and I have to do a hard shutdown. I thought my recent upgrade to firmware 1.8 fixed the problem, but the flickering has resurfaced. Keeping the PJ unplugged overnight helps, but the flickering returns intermittently when the unit has been powered up for 2+ hours. As some have suggested, I always turn the PJ on last to minimize the chance of HDMI hangups.


Given the capacitor issues that have been identified, this might be the silver bullet we have been waiting for. What is the best way to make this fix? Not sure I feel comfortable dismantling the projector and handling the boards, but would give it a go if its a very simple process... Would sending the unit to Mendtronix be the best bet? I love this PJ when it works and would be willing to spend $300-$500 if I could eke another 2-3 years out of it until 4K gains more traction.


Would welcome thoughts and suggestions
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post #10085 of 10211 Old 09-28-2015, 01:20 PM
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rprade & robdarman: many thanks for the info on the IR board capacitor.

Can you provide any details of the replacement capacitor you fitted? A specification sheet or a link to a suitable capacitor on a supplier's website would be appreciated.

How much disassembly is required to get to the IR board? Is it buried right at the bottom, or is it fairly easy to get to? [edit: I found the service manual online which shows how to disassemble the unit. The LED&IR PWB board appears to be attached to the inside face of the front panel. The front panel doesn't appear to require too many other components to be stripped away to get it off. I'd appreciate your first hand experience of disassembly though. Any tips?]

Last edited by Sithuk; 09-29-2015 at 12:48 AM.
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post #10086 of 10211 Old 09-29-2015, 04:07 AM
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I'd like to check the expected performance of the advanced gamma control with other owners.

I am using the 12 point gamma control to set the gamma curve at the following points (5/10/15/20/30/40/50/60/70/80/90/95). I don't alter the contrast setting, or any other setting, during the calibration.

I display a 100% white pattern using the HCFR in built generator (GDI). When I alter gamma profiles I measure significant changes in the measured luminance from my projector screen (colormunki display meter) when displaying the 100% white pattern.

The luminance change at 100% white has knock on implications to the gamma profile which is displayed in HCFR. HCFR is calculating the BT.1776 gamma profile from the 0% and 100% luminance readings. If the 100% luminance changes because of modifications to the gamma points between 0% and 100% then it is difficult to understand how I can finalise the gamma calibration.

Put simply, the target profile itself must be changing as soon as I make a tweak to, for example, the 40% gamma point. Meaning that as soon as I have edited the 40% gamma point to hit the target 40% gamma point on the target gamma curve, the target curve itself is wrong as I have somehow changed the 100% luminance point too?

How can a gamma calibration be achieved with this behaviour? I am beginning to doubt that I am truly displaying a 100% white, as I find it difficult to believe that I wouldn't have read about the gamma profile control in the X3 being fundamentally faulty in this way.

Have any other owners experienced this issue? Does the luminance reading for a 100% white screen change when you alter the gamma profile on the X3?
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post #10087 of 10211 Old 10-01-2015, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sithuk View Post
Have any other owners experienced this issue? Does the luminance reading for a 100% white screen change when you alter the gamma profile on the X3?
I have a DLA-X30 (successor to the X3). If I change the "gamma profile" (e.g., from Normal to Custom), the 100% luminance can change. However, if I adjust the 40% point luminance within the custom gamma screen, there's no effect whatsoever on the 100% luminance.
See the HCFR thread for actual measurement results.
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post #10088 of 10211 Old 10-01-2015, 11:38 PM
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Dominic, thank you for taking and reporting those readings in the HCFR thread (link below).

HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

I wanted to continue the discussion here as the issue appears to be with the X3, rather than the pattern generator of HCFR.

I mentioned the 40% gamma point earlier as an example only. I have a gut feeling that the 90% and 95% gamma points are likely to be the ones that influence a change in 100 IRE the most on my X3.

I hope to take my own readings and report back.

I had thought that luminance at 100 IRE should not be impacted by changes to a gamma profile. Is the behaviour you reported to be expected for a display device like a projector or tv? Or is it likely an engineering design fault, or software design error, with the X3/X30?

Do you have any data for how the 100 IRE luminance changes with the contrast left at, say -10, and changing the 90% or 95% gamma points in the advanced gamma setup? I have observed luminance changes at 100IRE with changes to the gamma profile, with a fixed contrast setting of, I think, +1.

Last edited by Sithuk; 10-01-2015 at 11:41 PM.
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post #10089 of 10211 Old 10-02-2015, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Sithuk View Post
I mentioned the 40% gamma point earlier as an example only.
That choice of example threw me off. The 40% control is so far away, that it should have no effect on the 100% point.

Quote:
I have a gut feeling that the 90% and 95% gamma points are likely to be the ones that influence a change in 100 IRE the most on my X3.
Yes, that's more than likely. All multipoint (e.g., 10-, 12-, or 20-point) adjustments affect a band centred around the nominal control point. Thus, the 95% point will have some effects on the 90% and 100%; hence some iterations are required. It is also recommended you do a sweep while making the multipoint adjustments, and not just monitor the nominal point that you're adjusting.

Quote:
I had thought that luminance at 100 IRE should not be impacted by changes to a gamma profile. Is the behaviour you reported to be expected for a display device like a projector or tv? Or is it likely an engineering design fault, or software design error, with the X3/X30?
This behaviour, while non-ideal from the user point-of-view, is related to the widespread "control displacement" issue observed on many TVs. What happens is that when you lower the contrast, the 100 IRE point is essentially "shifted down the scale" and is no longer the fixed point on the gamma curve.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 02-14-2016 at 05:06 AM.
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post #10090 of 10211 Old 10-02-2015, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sithuk View Post
Dominic, thank you for taking and reporting those readings in the HCFR thread (link below).

HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

I wanted to continue the discussion here as the issue appears to be with the X3, rather than the pattern generator of HCFR.

I mentioned the 40% gamma point earlier as an example only. I have a gut feeling that the 90% and 95% gamma points are likely to be the ones that influence a change in 100 IRE the most on my X3.

I hope to take my own readings and report back.

I had thought that luminance at 100 IRE should not be impacted by changes to a gamma profile. Is the behaviour you reported to be expected for a display device like a projector or tv? Or is it likely an engineering design fault, or software design error, with the X3/X30?

Do you have any data for how the 100 IRE luminance changes with the contrast left at, say -10, and changing the 90% or 95% gamma points in the advanced gamma setup? I have observed luminance changes at 100IRE with changes to the gamma profile, with a fixed contrast setting of, I think, +1.
My ISF calibrator turned down my request for him to calibrate my RS40. He said it was too difficult and therefore time consuming to dial it in. Perhaps this is one of the issues he had experienced. He is a well known calibrator so I take his word as truth.

Jack
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post #10091 of 10211 Old 10-02-2015, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JackB View Post
My ISF calibrator turned down my request for him to calibrate my RS40. He said it was too difficult and therefore time consuming to dial it in. Perhaps this is one of the issues he had experienced. He is a well known calibrator so I take his word as truth.
That may have more to do with CMS, than with the grey scale and gamma, which should be pretty straightforward.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 10-02-2015 at 04:47 PM.
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post #10092 of 10211 Old 10-10-2015, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Sithuk View Post
rprade & robdarman: many thanks for the info on the IR board capacitor.

Can you provide any details of the replacement capacitor you fitted? A specification sheet or a link to a suitable capacitor on a supplier's website would be appreciated.

How much disassembly is required to get to the IR board? Is it buried right at the bottom, or is it fairly easy to get to? [edit: I found the service manual online which shows how to disassemble the unit. The LED&IR PWB board appears to be attached to the inside face of the front panel. The front panel doesn't appear to require too many other components to be stripped away to get it off. I'd appreciate your first hand experience of disassembly though. Any tips?]

As I recall it the failed cap was a 47uf 25v tantalum cap. I had a few 100uf 12 or 15v tantalum caps in house so I put two in series. I doubt getting an exact match is important. OTOH if you get one that is the same physical size it will make soldering easier. Measure the existing cap in mm then search digikey or mouser for 47uf 25v caps. Pick one that is the same physical size. Getting to the board was not difficult. Remove the sides then the front panel. IR board is mounted to the front panel. Total repair time was well under 10 minutes, and most of that was spent looking for a replacement cap.
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post #10093 of 10211 Old 10-11-2015, 06:11 AM
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rob: I got in touch with JVC about the IR/LED PWB and they kindly agreed to carry out the repair as a goodwill gesture. I received my IR/LED PWB back from JVC with a replaced and correctly installed 47uF capacitor. My issues with lamp flicker, lock ups, and menu lag appear to all be gone. I should note that I had already replaced my v1 lamp with an official v3 lamp bought from JVC previously.

I no longer have to point my remote control directly at the front of the unit for the signal to be picked up either. I can point the remote control at the screen and the bounced signal is picked up perfectly. The remote control signal reception is significantly improved.

I've only used the unit for a few hours since the board has been replaced, but am optimistic. Thank you for sharing your experience that replacing the capacitor solved your lamp flicker and unit lockups. I'm not sure JVC appreciate yet that the capacitor appears to affect more than just the front remote control signal receptor.

Last edited by Sithuk; 10-11-2015 at 06:16 AM.
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post #10094 of 10211 Old 10-13-2015, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Sithuk View Post
rob: I got in touch with JVC about the IR/LED PWB and they kindly agreed to carry out the repair as a goodwill gesture. I received my IR/LED PWB back from JVC with a replaced and correctly installed 47uF capacitor. My issues with lamp flicker, lock ups, and menu lag appear to all be gone. I should note that I had already replaced my v1 lamp with an official v3 lamp bought from JVC previously.

I no longer have to point my remote control directly at the front of the unit for the signal to be picked up either. I can point the remote control at the screen and the bounced signal is picked up perfectly. The remote control signal reception is significantly improved.

I've only used the unit for a few hours since the board has been replaced, but am optimistic. Thank you for sharing your experience that replacing the capacitor solved your lamp flicker and unit lockups. I'm not sure JVC appreciate yet that the capacitor appears to affect more than just the front remote control signal receptor.
Did JVC pay for the shipping too, or did you have to pay that on your own?
If JVC would pay, I'd definitely consider having mine repaired.
They SHOULD be offering to repair ALL projectors that have the boards assembled incorrectly,
but I won't throw any false hope at it since when my lamp burned out very early on hours,
I tried to communicate with them about it and never even got a response.
Trying to ask AVS sales about it since that is where I bought it from,
they told me I was SOL since the pj was out of warranty.
I don't think that should matter though since the product is actually defective,
and the failure was not due to usage, but due to manufacturing/engineering defects.

~Dave

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post #10095 of 10211 Old 11-09-2015, 05:38 AM
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I also have a DLA-RS40u that I purchased new in 2011. I replaced the original lamp under warranty at around 400 hours because it became dimmer and the white balance impossible to properly calibrate. I also noticed the remote control became unresponsive from some angles. The new lamp did not fix the problem but the projector still looked ok so I just lived with it.

As other people have experienced a few month ago at about 600 hours on the new lamp, the projector began flickering and locking up. To fix it I will just remove the power and it would work again. I knew something was messing with the power supply but I had no idea where to look, until I find this thread!

So I disassembled the projector and found on the front IR board the 47uf 25V surface mount capacitor installed backwards . The capacitor had not failed so I just took itout and solder it back correctly.

Now all the problems seem to be solved, the lamp is no longer dimmed; I was able to achieve a good white balance and no flickering or locking up.

If you have basic understanding of electronics and soldering skills, I recommend this fix. It would definitely help you avoid further problems down the line.

Thanks rprade for sharing this information.
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post #10096 of 10211 Old 11-09-2015, 08:22 AM
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Wow, so an improperly installed 47uf cap seems to be the main culprit of most RS40 issues, that's certainly something JVC should be fixing at no charge (warranty or not this should be addressed since there are so many of these units still out there). I just bought one that should be here in a few days and I'll be flipping the cap myself before mounting.


A major thank you to the AVS'ers that discovered this and shared the information.


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post #10097 of 10211 Old 11-09-2015, 02:31 PM
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I also have a DLA-RS40u that I purchased new in 2011. I replaced the original lamp under warranty at around 400 hours because it became dimmer and the white balance impossible to properly calibrate. I also noticed the remote control became unresponsive from some angles. The new lamp did not fix the problem but the projector still looked ok so I just lived with it.

As other people have experienced a few month ago at about 600 hours on the new lamp, the projector began flickering and locking up. To fix it I will just remove the power and it would work again. I knew something was messing with the power supply but I had no idea where to look, until I find this thread!

So I disassembled the projector and found on the front IR board the 47uf 25V surface mount capacitor installed backwards . The capacitor had not failed so I just took itout and solder it back correctly.

Now all the problems seem to be solved, the lamp is no longer dimmed; I was able to achieve a good white balance and no flickering or locking up.

If you have basic understanding of electronics and soldering skills, I recommend this fix. It would definitely help you avoid further problems down the line.

Thanks rprade for sharing this information.
It's probably too late but is it possible you took some pictures of the board and a closeup of the resistor that is flipped. Many of us on here would be willing to look at ours for this problem and try to fix it.

Jack
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post #10098 of 10211 Old 11-10-2015, 05:46 AM
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It's probably too late but is it possible you took some pictures of the board and a closeup of the resistor that is flipped. Many of us on here would be willing to look at ours for this problem and try to fix it.
I do have a few pictures of the board after I solder back the capacitor the correct way. But I can't post them do to my newbie status.

You can see how the capacitor was mounted before on the Post#10075; by rprade, page 336.

Last edited by AVria; 11-10-2015 at 12:40 PM.
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post #10099 of 10211 Old 11-10-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by AVria View Post
I do have a few pictures of the board after I solder back the capacitor the correct way. Buy I can't post them do to my newbie status.

You can see how the capacitor was mounted before on the Post#10075; by rprade, page 336.
Can you PM them to me?

Jack
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post #10100 of 10211 Old 11-10-2015, 10:13 AM
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Can you PM them to me?
Sorry, it seems I can't send a PM until I have 15 posts. If you wish, PM me your email and I send you the URL's to the photos.
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post #10101 of 10211 Old 11-10-2015, 10:19 AM
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You do not need any amount of posts to post pictures. Just do it directly from your computer either dragging it to the drag and drop box (does not work with Edge)or go advanced and use the file attachment method.

Please use the report post button to alert staff to problematic posts. Never quote or respond to them yourself.

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post #10102 of 10211 Old 11-10-2015, 01:26 PM
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Here are the photos
Thank for tht help steachsac
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post #10103 of 10211 Old 11-10-2015, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVria View Post
Here are the photos
Thank for tht help steachsac
Should we assume it's the black square module in the center of the board? If so, which end points in which direction?

Jack
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post #10104 of 10211 Old 11-11-2015, 11:18 PM
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Can someone tell me which part of the below image defines the firmware version...
Thank you.

- Anyone...?


*** Confirmed with previous owner that firmware 1.8 is installed. ***
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HT = JVC RS40 / Lumagen Radiance / Vivitek 1186 /@133"/ Samsung 50" Plasma / Denon x5200 7.3.4 Atmos / B&K 5000 II amp / Boston VR2/VR12/CR67 speakers / Rythmik 12" subs x2 / CV 15" sub / Sony BDP s1000ES / Yamaha DV-S5860 / Toshiba HD-A3 / PureAV PF31
Media Room = Vizio 4K 70" lcd/Denon x4100/Audiosource Amp 100/Klipsch speakers/Velodyne subs/Sony BDP s780/PS4/X1/WiiU/PS3/360/Wii/Game PC/Multi-Arcade My HT SLIDESHOW

Last edited by DaGamePimp; 11-13-2015 at 04:55 PM.
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post #10105 of 10211 Old 11-14-2015, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackB View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVria View Post
Here are the photos
Thank for tht help steachsac
Should we assume it's the black square module in the center of the board? If so, which end points in which direction?
Yes, it is the black square. It should be positioned as in the picture. Notice the markings on the top.
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post #10106 of 10211 Old 11-14-2015, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robdarman View Post
As another data point. MyRS40's front ir sensor got flaky and then stopped working entirely. Soon thereafter I started having issues with lockups during boot and when switching resolutions via hdmi. I opened it up and sure enough the capacitor on the IR board was blown. It measured 1k ohms. The capacitor was installed as the the silkscreen on the board indicated it should be. This connects the + side o the capacitor to the ground plane (which I assume is tied to ground although I did not measure this). I installed a new capacitor the other way around and all is working again! Front ir sensor works and no lock ups. My guess is that the engineer who designed the circuit connected the capacitor backwards on the schematic and this mistake was never caught. Thus this is an engineering not a manufacturing error. This also means that it is likely that every projector that they have made that used this board will eventually have this issue. At a minimum JVC should be offering free replacement boards to customers.
Today I received the IR board and replaced the one on my DLA-X3 PJ.
The problem started exactly at 1300 hours that my PJ logged.
All works fine now.
Thanks AVria for taking the time to share your experience .
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post #10107 of 10211 Old 11-14-2015, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robdarman View Post
As another data point. MyRS40's front ir sensor got flaky and then stopped working entirely. Soon thereafter I started having issues with lockups during boot and when switching resolutions via hdmi. I opened it up and sure enough the capacitor on the IR board was blown. It measured 1k ohms. The capacitor was installed as the the silkscreen on the board indicated it should be. This connects the + side o the capacitor to the ground plane (which I assume is tied to ground although I did not measure this). I installed a new capacitor the other way around and all is working again! Front ir sensor works and no lock ups. My guess is that the engineer who designed the circuit connected the capacitor backwards on the schematic and this mistake was never caught. Thus this is an engineering not a manufacturing error. This also means that it is likely that every projector that they have made that used this board will eventually have this issue. At a minimum JVC should be offering free replacement boards to customers.
Today I received the IR board and replaced the one on my DLA-X3 PJ.
The problem started exactly at 1300 hours that my PJ logged.
All works fine now.
Thanks AVria for taking the time to share your experience .
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post #10108 of 10211 Old 12-15-2015, 06:51 PM
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I just wanted to offer my sincerest thanks to the members here bringing to light the capacitor issue. I had a front IR sensor that had ceased to work a long time ago but chalked it up to just one of those things. Until recently the projector had been working fine until I started getting unexplained lockups. I tried everything I could think of with my setup and equipment to no avail. Contacting JVC Canada support led me to perform a firmware update to 1.8 but did not resolve my issue. I was ready to ship it off for service when I came across these posts. I opened up the projector, switched the orientation of the capacitor and now having a fully functional projector, IR and all.

I sent another email back to JVC Canada support with details of my experience and photos of my capacitor before and after as well as a link back to this thread. Hopefully word gets out so others aren't spending big bucks on repairs for such a simple fix.

Thanks again everyone, you've brought my home theatre back to life!
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post #10109 of 10211 Old 01-10-2016, 11:54 AM
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Another Fixed IR Sensor!

Thank you to all who have contributed to this thread and forum. And a special thank you to Mauros (post #10042 ), Rprade (post #10075 ), RobDarman (post #10083 and #10092 ) and Avria (post #10095 ) for telling us about the IR sensor fix. My RS40 with about 650 hours would not respond to the remote commands from the front. I keep the power removed from it via a panamax 5300-PM when not in use. This has kept my lock up issues to a minimum. Yesterday I decided to do the capacitor fix. I desoldered and rotated the capacitor 180 degrees and soldered it back in. It works like a champ. I can point it at the screen and the response is instantaneous like when I first purchased it (B stock from AVS August 2012). This is a very simple fix. I have very limited soldering experience (a few speaker wires to terminals). I would rate the level of difficulty a 2 on a 1 to 10 scale with 1 being the least difficult. If you are on the fence about doing this. Get off the fence and Git R Done!
Here is a list of tips to help you:
1. There are at least 10 screws you have to remove to get to the IR board. 2 of them that hold the front panel are under the top panel. So take off the side and top panels first then the front panel.
2. The harness that connects the board is short so you will have to disconnect the wiring from the board before you can let the front panel down. This was slightly difficult for me as my hands are big and there was not a lot of room. The connector is just pressure fit into the socket so there are no clips to push. You do not have to disconnect the other wires as they are long enough to work with.
3. The solder will re solidify as soon as you remove the hot iron from it. So gently lift up on the capacitor as you melt the solder so it will become free from the board once the solder melts.
4. I couldn't keep the capacitor from moving when I was trying to solder it back in with new solder. So I held it down with my finger and re heated the old solder left on the board to tack it down first. Then used new solder to make the secure connection.
The pictures are here to help you visualize how simple the fix is. If you have questions I will do my best to answer them.
Jamar
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Last edited by ejceles; 01-10-2016 at 06:42 PM.
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post #10110 of 10211 Old 01-31-2016, 04:08 AM
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I can find what appear to be three different JVC X3 power supply boards available from suppliers. The service manual gives part number PC0106500U9 for the power supply board.

The three variants I can find are as follows.

1) Part number: PC0106500U9
http://www.pacparts.com/part.cfm?par...6500U9&mfg=JVC
https://www.encompassparts.com/item/...00U9/Power_Pwb

2) Part number: PC0106500U9-UP
http://www.pacparts.com/part.cfm?par...0U9-NP&mfg=JVC
http://www.partsimple.com/pc0106500u9-np-jvc-n-13.html

3) Part number: PC0210614U9
The encompassparts page notes that PC0106500U9 is no longer available and that subsitite part PC0210614U9 is available instead.
https://www.encompassparts.com/item/...P.w.board_Assy

The best price appears to be offered by partsimple.com for the UP variant board. Will it work ok for the JVC DLA X3? I've attached an image of my existing power supply board information. The manufacturer is Sumida.

What is the difference between the three boards?
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