Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 343 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10261 of 10283 Old 03-29-2017, 04:05 PM
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I inherited a jvc x7 with a new house. It has the solid red lights with flashing orange. I took the ballast out and there is no visible damage and the resistor was good. Put it back in and upgraded the firmware. Bought a new bulb but still no luck, just ordered a new ballast so we'll see if that works. If not, hoping to be able to return it. There was power coming from the power supply to the ballast. I'll report back when the new ballast is in. Does anyone know if anything would cause the blinking orange light?
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post #10262 of 10283 Old 04-03-2017, 04:15 PM
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New ballast fixed it $165 from the jvc store
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post #10263 of 10283 Old 04-03-2017, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by nineshot View Post
New ballast fixed it $165 from the jvc store
Hi, thanks for sharing ! where exactly did you buy it ? JVC US ? Could you please share the part number ? I am going to try to do the same.
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post #10264 of 10283 Old 04-04-2017, 10:22 AM
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Anyone have issues with the RF receiver on the PJ? Mine has stopped working, so I have to push the button on the back each time to turn it on and off. Not a huge deal since I can easily reach it, but annoying. The PJ does not respond to the harmony or JVC stock remotes. I could run a trigger wire to my processor, but would rather not.

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post #10265 of 10283 Old 04-04-2017, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Noman74656 View Post
Anyone have issues with the RF receiver on the PJ? Mine has stopped working, so I have to push the button on the back each time to turn it on and off. Not a huge deal since I can easily reach it, but annoying. The PJ does not respond to the harmony or JVC stock remotes. I could run a trigger wire to my processor, but would rather not.
HI:
Search for post #10109 within this thread and you find your solution and how to fix it there! very easy fix, but you'll have to open up the PJ and do some solder...Not hard and it should fix the IR problem on the X3/X7/X9...
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post #10266 of 10283 Old 04-05-2017, 09:16 AM
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HI:
Search for post #10109 within this thread and you find your solution and how to fix it there! very easy fix, but you'll have to open up the PJ and do some solder...Not hard and it should fix the IR problem on the X3/X7/X9...
Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for.

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post #10267 of 10283 Old 04-11-2017, 05:10 AM
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Hi, thanks for sharing ! where exactly did you buy it ? JVC US ? Could you please share the part number ? I am going to try to do the same.
The price changed on it, it was 165 when I got it. Now its 227. Either way here is the link. Mine is an x7 but the part is the same for the x3
http://store.jvc.com/catalog.php?id=3808
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post #10268 of 10283 Old 04-11-2017, 07:42 AM
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The price changed on it, it was 165 when I got it. Now its 227. Either way here is the link. Mine is an x7 but the part is the same for the x3
http://store.jvc.com/catalog.php?id=3808
Thanks again.
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post #10269 of 10283 Old 04-17-2017, 08:39 AM
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Here are the photos
Thank for tht help steachsac


I performed the fix in my projector this weekend, and now it works perfectly. Thanks for posting the detailed pictures!


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post #10270 of 10283 Old 07-23-2017, 12:16 PM
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I hope someone is still linked to this thread. I have noticed over time, that is the last four of five years, that my RS40's colors seem to change after about 45 to 60 minutes into the movie. It starts out beautifully and then when it reaches that timeframe it seems to transition to a very warm picture with it having an almost reddish tint to the picture. It's kind of like going from 8500 to 5500 kelvin.

Anyone else experienced this? Any solutions?

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post #10271 of 10283 Old 07-23-2017, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JackB View Post
I hope someone is still linked to this thread. I have noticed over time, that is the last four of five years, that my RS40's colors seem to change after about 45 to 60 minutes into the movie. It starts out beautifully and then when it reaches that timeframe it seems to transition to a very warm picture with it having an almost reddish tint to the picture. It's kind of like going from 8500 to 5500 kelvin.

Anyone else experienced this? Any solutions?
The projector colour does change as the lamp warms up, but the most noticeable changes should be within the first 5-10 minutes.
In any case, you should calibrate the projector to D65 after it reaches a stable colour.

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post #10272 of 10283 Old 07-24-2017, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
The projector colour does change as the lamp warms up, but the most noticeable changes should be within the first 5-10 minutes.
In any case, you should calibrate the projector to D65 after it reaches a stable colour.
I don't be suppose you've tried changing your lamp? There is a an eBay seller that sells Phillips lamps in a housing for about $80. I am using one now, 200+ hours in and it's perfect.

Maybe try that?

*Running Quad 22L/C/12L/11L (6 Ohm), 2x HSU VTF15H MkII subs in a 6.2 config
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post #10273 of 10283 Old 07-24-2017, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Albert View Post
I don't be suppose you've tried changing your lamp? There is a an eBay seller that sells Phillips lamps in a housing for about $80. I am using one now, 200+ hours in and it's perfect.
I'm not sure if you actually intended to reply to my post (which was a reply to Jack B's post).

In any case, the warm-up behaviour affects all projector lamps, new or old. That's why one should only calibrate projectors after at lease one hour of warm-up.

FWIW, I did use the Philips lamp over a year ago, back in February 2016:
Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread

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post #10274 of 10283 Old 07-25-2017, 10:47 AM
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I haven't followed this thread in a while but I've just read the last few pages.

I still have an RS40 but I had reserved it only for Blu-ray viewing while a second, cheaper projector has been my workhorse for TV watching, and thus gets a lot more use. Unfortunately, that second projector crapped out on me, leaving only the RS40. And now the RS40 has started flickering. If this goes, I'll have nothing.

The RS40 is on its third lamp (a V3) after the first two failed prematurely. I hadn't had any issues with this one until now. It only has just under 600 hours on it.

As soon as I see flickering, I power the projector off. I've noticed that in addition to the flickering, the projector becomes very unresponsive. It won't respond to the remote at all when this happens (even standing behind it - the front IR went out long ago). I have to push the power button on the body of the projector several times, and it usually has a delayed reaction before it shuts off. This leads me to assume it's not just the lamp at fault.

I see people talking about a ballast problem and a capacitor installed incorrectly, which some have fixed themselves. I am not particularly handy with that sort of thing. I'm wary of taking the projector apart only to find this wasn't the problem.

What are the realistic odds I can fix this myself without having to ship it off for repair?

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post #10275 of 10283 Old 07-26-2017, 04:41 AM
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That sounds like the capacitor issue to me. I had mine fixed while still under warranty. If I was you I'd contact JVC, tell them this is a known flaw with the PJ and see if you can get it repaired for free?

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post #10276 of 10283 Old 07-26-2017, 06:44 AM
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That sounds like the capacitor issue to me. I had mine fixed while still under warranty. If I was you I'd contact JVC, tell them this is a known flaw with the PJ and see if you can get it repaired for free?
The only problem with that is that I'd be without any projector at all while it's away. I'm also well out of warranty.

Is it better to replace to capacitor entirely? Where can I find that part?

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post #10277 of 10283 Old 07-26-2017, 07:11 AM
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The JVC Accessory Store carries a replacement LED/IR Board, but the photo looks different than the one shown in post 10109 of this thread:

http://store.jvc.com/catalog.php?id=5250

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post #10278 of 10283 Old 07-26-2017, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post
I haven't followed this thread in a while but I've just read the last few pages.


I see people talking about a ballast problem and a capacitor installed incorrectly, which some have fixed themselves. I am not particularly handy with that sort of thing. I'm wary of taking the projector apart only to find this wasn't the problem.

What are the realistic odds I can fix this myself without having to ship it off for repair?
It is not that hard to fix the wrongly installed capacitor; should not take too much time or require too much of skill, just follow the steps on post #1099. That should fix your IR problem but the ballast is another bigger problem and much more costly.
BT
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post #10279 of 10283 Old 07-26-2017, 11:04 AM
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It is not that hard to fix the wrongly installed capacitor; should not take too much time or require too much of skill, just follow the steps on post #1099. That should fix your IR problem but the ballast is another bigger problem and much more costly.
BT
What are the symptoms of needing the ballast fixed/replaced?

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post #10280 of 10283 Old Yesterday, 09:59 AM
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Is it better to replace to capacitor entirely? Where can I find that part?
Does anyone know the answer to this? Thanks.

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post #10281 of 10283 Old Yesterday, 10:14 AM
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Does anyone know the answer to this? Thanks.
Most people just re-use the same capacitor, but soldered it the right way. In case the capacity is blown, you can buy another 47uf 25V surface mount capacitor which is quite inexpensive.

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post #10282 of 10283 Old Yesterday, 10:21 AM
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Does anyone know the answer to this? Thanks.
Most people just re-use the same capacitor, but soldered it the right way. In case the capacity is blown, you can buy another 47uf 25V surface mount capacitor which is quite inexpensive.

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post #10283 of 10283 Old Yesterday, 11:20 AM
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Most people just re-use the same capacitor, but soldered it the right way. In case the capacity is blown, you can buy another 47uf 25V surface mount capacitor which is quite inexpensive.
I don't know anything about capacitors, but if it's been degrading over time, wouldn't it be better to put a new one in while I've got the projector open? Or does that not matter so long as it's still working?

There seem to be a lot of different types of capacitors that match the description you mention. I found a reference earlier in this thread about needing one that's the right size. Can anyone point me to the right one, say on Amazon? Thanks.

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