Official Sony VW90ES Tweaking Thread - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 56 Old 12-29-2010, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
omicronian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 368
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I created this thread to discuss VW90ES settings for both 2D and 3D, service menu tweaks and ways to improve 3D brightness, reduce ghosting, improve contrast, etc... Here's a few settings which worked for me, I am continuously changing things, so I will try to keep this post as up to date as I can.

RCP (this is global):

Yellow Hue : -5

Nothing fancy, yellow was a little greenish to my tastes


3D Settings for brightness :

Picture Mode : Any (I used Cinema 2)
3D Glasses: Xpand x103
Contrast : 90
Color : 60
Brightness : 50
Sharpness : 10
Color temp : Custom-2
Edited Custom-2:
Gain R : 30
Gain G : 30
Gain B : 30
3D glasses settings : glasses High
Gamma correction : Gamma-1 (black +1, white 0)
Color Space : Wide-3

Explanations :

Picture Mode : Any (I used Cinema 1)
You can use any picture mode, they are simply memory slots, containers for the all other setings.

3D Glasses:
The Xpand glasses are a little brighter than the stock sonys, they have a better optical quality.

Contrast : 90
The contrast is clipping above 80, but pushing it to 90 raises the gamma a little more (the drawback is that it clips some highlights)

Color : 60
Color Space : Wide-3
With a dimmer picture and an aggressive gamma, the colors are less vibrant than they should be, so this keeps the colors perceptibly well saturated. This is not really necessary if you have a high gain screen and you use gamma-3.

Brightness : 50
There's no point raising the brightness and washing out the image, there's a better way to raise the shadow details with a dim picture (i.e. gamma "black" adjustment, see below)

Sharpness : 10
More than 10 is causing visible edge enhancement. If you want a film-like picture with no sharpness enhancement, I would recommend setting it at "1" and not "0". Setting it at 0 seems to disable some important processing.

Color temp: Custom-2
The Custom-2 preset is fairly close to an accurate white point when used with the xpand x103 glasses, it removes the green tint that is present with the custom 5 setting. It's a little darker than the custom-5, but it's my prefered setting for films.

Edited Custom-2:
I edited Custom-2 and set Gain R, G and B to +30 for additional brightness. That gain is a headroom used by the projector for white field uniformity, but with normal material the negative impact is not really noticeable, while the additional brightness is.

3D glasses settings : glasses High
Glasses High is an option which keep the shutter glasses open for the longest period of time. It also happens to be the only usable setting if you have xpand glasses (until they update the firmware).

Gamma correction : Gamma-1 (black +1, white 0)
Gamma-1 is the brightest gamma available on the Sony without making a custom curve.
Black+1 is improving shadow details a little, useful if you have a low gain screen.

Possible issues:
  • The gamma setting above is not a "correct" gamma. It makes the image more "washed out". If you have a high gain screen, consider gamma-3(0,0) which should be more accurate.
  • If you decide to use gamma-3 for a more accurate gamma, you should also change the color space to Normal, and the color to 50.
  • Contrast at 90 is clipping the highlights, it could be noticeable with very bright scenes. Lower contrast to avoid this.
  • "Glasses High" could cause visible ghosting. To reduce ghosting, use the sony glasses at mid or low setting.
  • The Color Temp Gains could cause some uniformity issues at 100 IRE. If that is a problem, lower all RGB Gains to a more reasonable level.

3D Settings for quality (same as above but with gamma-3 and no color boost) :

Picture Mode : Any (I used Cinema 2)
3D Glasses: Xpand x103
Contrast : 85
Color : 53
Brightness : 50
Sharpness : 10
Color temp : Custom-2
Edited Custom-2:
Gain R : 30
Gain G : 30
Gain B : 30
3D glasses settings : glasses High
Gamma correction : Gamma-3 (black 0, white 0)
Color Space : Normal


2D settings :

Picture Mode : Any (I used Standard)
Iris : Auto-2 / recommended
Contrast : 80
Color : 53
Brightness : 50
Sharpness : between 1 and 10
Color temp : Custom-3
Edited Custom-3:
Gain R : 30
Gain G : 7
Gain B : 10
Bias R : 0
Bias G : -2
Bias B : -2
Gamma correction : Gamma-3 (0,0)
Color Space : Normal

Possible issues:
  • Color at 53 is a personal preference, it's more saturated than it should, 50 is a more accurate setting.
  • These settings are bright but might cause some uniformity problems at 100 IRE, if the uniformity issue is objectionable, lower all RGB Gains until the issue disappears.
  • It's just a starting point which is at least better than default settings. For the best settings, you should consider hiring a professional calibrator.
  • This is for my projector, and my current lamp usage (200 hours), the white point will drift over time, and might be different for another projector.
  • I still have some flaws in the color temperature tracking, this will require editing the curve with the Image Director software.

2D Iris tweak to double the on/off contrast:
(alter service menu settings at your own risk, note your factory values... etc...)

Service Menu :
Other - Iris/Close Reg : 266 (factory was 334)

User Menu :
Iris : Auto-2 / Fast
Gamma : gamma-3 (black +1)

The defaut value (334 on mine) makes the iris work within a small range of 3:1 ratio. In the past, SXRD projectors were more aggressive than that (5:1).
Changing this value to 266 will make the iris work at around 6:1, giving about 150k:1 on/off contrast.
At 250 it would make the iris around 8:1, giving about 200k:1 on/off contrast.
Black +1 is to correct an issue with low-light scenes. When the iris closes, the display engine thinks that it closes up to 3:1 but It's now twice that ratio. Only the very low-light scenes would suffer from this, so only the bottom end of the gamma curve needs to be changed (which is exactly what black+1 does).
"Iris Fast" is to help the fade-to-black between scenes, but might cause the iris to be more noticeable.

Possible issues:
  • The iris action becomes more noticeable
  • Some low-light scenes might be a little darker than they should
  • The white balance seems to shift when the iris closes too much
  • The black level is already great, so this tweak is questionable, considering the additional artifacts it introduces

CIH Lens Shift Limits :
The service menu has Top and Bottom limits for the lens shift, so you can set them at the 2 positions for your CIH setup, it makes changing aspect a little easier, you only have to shift vertical until it stops, then zoom until the image reaches the edge of the screen. It works both ways.
(alter service menu settings at your own risk, note your factory values... etc...)

Service Menu :
Other - Lens Shift V Top Limit
Other - Lens Shift V Bottom Limit

Possible issues:
  • The mechanical stop of the lens shift is not very accurate, it's only a circuit which kills the motor beyond a certain point.

Future tweaks considered:
  • There's some more brightness available with the panel drive options in the service menu. I'm not sure it's safe, it mess up the gamma curve a lot, and uniformity too, so I didn't touch it.
  • For 3D, I should make a custom curve with the Image Director software. It would be fun to replicate the JVC gamma A and B, for example.
  • The xpand glasses need a firmware update to support the "medium" and "low" setting, which would reduce the ghosting.
  • Lots of green available, maybe a good candidate for an FL-Day filter
omicronian is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 56 Old 12-29-2010, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
omicronian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 368
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
(reserved)
omicronian is offline  
post #3 of 56 Old 12-29-2010, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
omicronian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 368
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
(reserved)
omicronian is offline  
post #4 of 56 Old 12-30-2010, 10:44 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
joerod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MIDWEST (just outside Chicago)
Posts: 21,986
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 88
I am 100% behind you on the Custom 2 tweak. I love it!!! I do absolutely hate the gamma 1 setting with my silverstar though.

And I do like making Cinema 3 the setting for 3D movies and using Cinema 1 for 2D. Dynamic comes in handy for animation both in 3D and 2D.

Search or copy and paste-> Joe Rod Home Theater .Com <-to check out my latest Reviews.

Check out these new Lighted Cup Holders:
http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homeste...=1402680301175
joerod is offline  
post #5 of 56 Old 12-30-2010, 03:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
d.j.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Denmark
Posts: 1,242
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Thanks Omicronian for all the work and I really like the way you write ( love the for and against notes - very )

Like Joe, in 3D ( with a PS3 and a 1.0 gain screen) in the Gamma 1 mode everything looks to wash out - the gamma 2 looks a lot more "punchy" and contrast richer, without losing to much light and detail in the dark areas for my eyes ( but this is with the Sony glasses at "medium" I dont have the Epand´s .......yet ). Most off my testing for now, has only been with the Imax 3D " Grand Canyon" and demo clips from some Sony BD´s ( Alice in wo..., A christmas Carol, carneval in Rio, etc. ) so still a lot off 3D movies I need to try

When I get time ( next year ) I will try it with a Steward 1.3 gain screen, to see what difference it makes ( if any ) for the settings

How do you enter the service meny ? and yes I know, I have to bee carefull when changing the settings and write down the factory values first.

Happy new year for all
d.j. is offline  
post #6 of 56 Old 12-30-2010, 04:01 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
joerod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MIDWEST (just outside Chicago)
Posts: 21,986
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 88
Enter, enter, left and enter.

Search or copy and paste-> Joe Rod Home Theater .Com <-to check out my latest Reviews.

Check out these new Lighted Cup Holders:
http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homeste...=1402680301175
joerod is offline  
post #7 of 56 Old 12-30-2010, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
omicronian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 368
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks, glad you liked it.
Yes, I agree the extreme gamma is useful only if you really don't have enough brightness from your screen.
omicronian is offline  
post #8 of 56 Old 12-30-2010, 07:42 PM
 
dogone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,155
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanx for the settings omi...I will set them tomorrow and get back to you...
dogone is offline  
post #9 of 56 Old 01-02-2011, 11:56 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
joerod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MIDWEST (just outside Chicago)
Posts: 21,986
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 88
I think we need to work on some NFL (Sports) settings...

Search or copy and paste-> Joe Rod Home Theater .Com <-to check out my latest Reviews.

Check out these new Lighted Cup Holders:
http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homeste...=1402680301175
joerod is offline  
post #10 of 56 Old 01-02-2011, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
omicronian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 368
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
If you guys want more color saturation for sports and such, I suggest using Wide-3 and avoid boosting the color dial too much (no more than 60). Because I just found the color dial start clipping the saturation immediately above 50, and the RCP color control is also clipping, but the wide color spaces are fine. So it's better to start with a wider color space and narrow it down if necessary, because you can't do the opposite.

I changed my 3D settings above to reflect that.
omicronian is offline  
post #11 of 56 Old 01-02-2011, 08:48 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
joerod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MIDWEST (just outside Chicago)
Posts: 21,986
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 88
Good idea. I need to dial back my color somewhat.

Search or copy and paste-> Joe Rod Home Theater .Com <-to check out my latest Reviews.

Check out these new Lighted Cup Holders:
http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homeste...=1402680301175
joerod is offline  
post #12 of 56 Old 01-06-2011, 12:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
d.j.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Denmark
Posts: 1,242
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

Enter, enter, left and enter.

Thanks Joe
d.j. is offline  
post #13 of 56 Old 01-06-2011, 02:31 PM
 
dogone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,155
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Fellas, I just found an important discovery...On certain 3D flicks, you need to go into the 3D settings and adjust "3D Depth Adjust" and "Glasses brightness"...This is important...For example, when playing the "known bad quality" disc, "Grand Canyon" using the Xpand 103's on the glasses brightness switch from "high" to "low" and then slide the Depth adjust to -1 from 0...You will see a tremendous difference!...
dogone is offline  
post #14 of 56 Old 01-06-2011, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
omicronian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 368
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Most good titles are placing the scene's center of interest at the screen's distance (converged perfectly one over the other), so the important object or actor you're looking at has no ghosting at all, while your peripheral vision is less sensitive to the crosstalk, so it makes no noticeable ghosting overall. That's why "bad" titles are better when playing with this control, they didn't do that adjustment in the mastering.

If we ever get a firmware update for the xpand, we might have zero ghosting with glasses set at low, while they would have the same brightness as the sonys at medium. The Sony glasses at low are doing a good job but are too dim.
omicronian is offline  
post #15 of 56 Old 01-06-2011, 03:16 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
joerod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MIDWEST (just outside Chicago)
Posts: 21,986
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 88
This is good info. I will give it a go.

Search or copy and paste-> Joe Rod Home Theater .Com <-to check out my latest Reviews.

Check out these new Lighted Cup Holders:
http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homeste...=1402680301175
joerod is offline  
post #16 of 56 Old 01-06-2011, 03:18 PM
 
dogone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,155
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by omicronian View Post

Most good titles are placing the scene's center of interest at the screen's distance (converged perfectly one over the other), so the important object or actor you're looking at has no ghosting at all, while your peripheral vision is less sensitive to the crosstalk, so it makes no noticeable ghosting overall. That's why "bad" titles are better when playing with this control, they didn't do that.

If we ever get a firmware update for the xpand, we might have zero ghosting with glasses set at low, while they have the same brightness as the sonys at medium. The Sony glasses at low are doing a good job but are too dim.

Trust me...when I go from High, to medium, to low...there is a constant and noticable improvement with each drop of the setting...and low is the absolute best for the Grand Canyon... Don't know about the firmware, but the low to high works fine on my Sony using the Xpands...
dogone is offline  
post #17 of 56 Old 01-06-2011, 03:21 PM
 
dogone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,155
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

This is good info. I will give it a go.

Joe...pause the image in the beginning of Grand Canyon where the dude with the red hair is in the house right after he walks in from walking down the path to the house...Pause him, then go from high to low on the glasses setting, then go to -1 on the 3D image adjust...
dogone is offline  
post #18 of 56 Old 01-06-2011, 03:24 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
joerod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MIDWEST (just outside Chicago)
Posts: 21,986
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogone View Post

Joe...pause the image in the beginning of Grand Canyon where the dude with the red hair is in the house right after he walks in from walking down the path to the house...Pause him, then go from high to low on the glasses setting, then go to -1 on the 3D image adjust...

Heading down there now.

Search or copy and paste-> Joe Rod Home Theater .Com <-to check out my latest Reviews.

Check out these new Lighted Cup Holders:
http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homeste...=1402680301175
joerod is offline  
post #19 of 56 Old 01-06-2011, 03:29 PM
 
dogone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,155
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

Heading down there now.

Joe...omi's settings are the best I've been able to see on the Sony...I would use his settings for 3D.
dogone is offline  
post #20 of 56 Old 01-06-2011, 05:11 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
joerod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MIDWEST (just outside Chicago)
Posts: 21,986
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 88
They are pretty dang good.

Search or copy and paste-> Joe Rod Home Theater .Com <-to check out my latest Reviews.

Check out these new Lighted Cup Holders:
http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homeste...=1402680301175
joerod is offline  
post #21 of 56 Old 01-07-2011, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
omicronian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 368
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogone View Post

Trust me...when I go from High, to medium, to low...there is a constant and noticable improvement with each drop of the setting...and low is the absolute best for the Grand Canyon... Don't know about the firmware, but the low to high works fine on my Sony using the Xpands...

Yes, I also see it has an impact, but it only does half of the job that it should. According to the SXRD documents, this is what is really happening:
  • Lowering the brightness control is making the shutter open "later" and close "earlier".
  • The ghosting at the top of the image is caused by the shutters closing too late.
  • The ghosting at the bottom of the image is caused by the shutters opening too early.
The xpands are reacting to the opening timing change, therefore reducing the ghosting at the bottom of the image.
But the xpands are NOT reacting to the closing timing change, that is why the brightness doesn't change. It's an xpand firmware feature that is missing.

The reason it has a positive impact on some material is that the part of the image which has the most separation (i.e. where you see the most double image when you look without glasses) is on the bottom half of the picture. It's normal, because the top of the image is usually the sky (far away, little separation) and the bottom is usually the ground (closer, lots of separation). Coincidentally, this is what you are changing with the "3D Depth" control, it changes which part of the image has the least separation.

This is all with the projector ceiling mounted, upside down. If it's on a shelf it would reverse the top and bottom in the above explanations. It would also cause more ghosting with most material.
omicronian is offline  
post #22 of 56 Old 01-08-2011, 02:04 AM
AVS Special Member
 
OzHDHT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: The Antipodes aka Oz
Posts: 1,267
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Excellent thread omicronian! Exactly what I've been looking for. I'm going to try some of your 3d settings on my calibrated unit and studiotek 130 110". I also ordered some x103s. Looking forward to those.

OzHDHT is offline  
post #23 of 56 Old 01-18-2011, 07:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Bytehoven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,854
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 49
I am placing my vw90 order today. I hope to have the projector by Friday.

I will run the projector thru the range of CalMan/DPG-1200 test patterns and post a pre-calibration review of the various out of the box/factory settings.

I will dive into the service menu and see what I kind find. I'll report anything of potential interest.

At around 100 hours I will proceed with the detailed calibration.

While I will be using the vw90 with a Lumagen Radiance XS, I do plan to get the vw90 calibrated close to flat before engaging the Lumagen. So I think anything I find and post might still be of use to other vw90 owners.

I'm thinking thru how I might do a 3D calibration using the sony glasses with the Chroma 5 probe, and running 2D -> 3D processing on the vw90. It will probably be less than perfect, but it might help figuring out some tweaks for gamma, color, or anything else that could use some improvement in 3D mode.

I'll be projecting on my temporary, 100" diagonal 16:9 flat matte white screen until our new HT is completed in the late Spring. I'm not sure what size/type screen I will use in the new HT. Something 3D friendly but not with too much polarization retention that might overly impact 2D performance. I hope to hear more reviews from 3D owners and their screen reviews.

I'd like to thank the AVS community for helping me research the vw90, especially those early adopters and reviewers.

I'd also like to thank Rob McDonough at Sony for the information he provided on the vw90, vw85 and vwPro1. I let Rob know I decided to invest in the vw90 and I hope he continues to be a source of great information and secrets for the vw90.

I'll have more to report shortly.

Cheers

Byte
...

XBL GT: xX ShadowAxx Xx 

PSN ID: Bytehoven

Battle Log: Bytehoven  

Bytehoven is offline  
post #24 of 56 Old 01-18-2011, 11:05 AM
Senior Member
 
Beamer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: UK
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

I am placing my vw90 order today. I hope to have the projector by Friday.

I will run the projector thru the range of CalMan/DPG-1200 test patterns and post a pre-calibration review of the various out of the box/factory settings.

I will dive into the service menu and see what I kind find. I'll report anything of potential interest.

At around 100 hours I will proceed with the detailed calibration.

While I will be using the vw90 with a Lumagen Radiance XS, I do plan to get the vw90 calibrated close to flat before engaging the Lumagen. So I think anything I find and post might still be of use to other vw90 owners.

I'm thinking thru how I might do a 3D calibration using the sony glasses with the Chroma 5 probe, and running 2D -> 3D processing on the vw90. It will probably be less than perfect, but it might help figuring out some tweaks for gamma, color, or anything else that could use some improvement in 3D mode.

I'll be projecting on my temporary, 100" diagonal 16:9 flat matte white screen until our new HT is completed in the late Spring. I'm not sure what size/type screen I will use in the new HT. Something 3D friendly but not with too much polarization retention that might overly impact 2D performance. I hope to hear more reviews from 3D owners and their screen reviews.

I'd like to thank the AVS community for helping me research the vw90, especially those early adopters and reviewers.

I'd also like to thank Rob McDonough at Sony for the information he provided on the vw90, vw85 and vwPro1. I let Rob know I decided to invest in the vw90 and I hope he continues to be a source of great information and secrets for the vw90.

I'll have more to report shortly.

Cheers

Byte
...

I look forward to your findings and working with your results to further improve my own VW90 experience

Beamer
Beamer is offline  
post #25 of 56 Old 01-18-2011, 03:11 PM
AVS Special Member
 
OzHDHT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: The Antipodes aka Oz
Posts: 1,267
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by beamer View Post

i look forward to your findings and working with your results to further improve my own vw90 experience

beamer

+1

OzHDHT is offline  
post #26 of 56 Old 01-18-2011, 03:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Bytehoven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,854
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 49
Hey Oz... long time no see. I hope you weren't in the flood area down there.

Cheers

RJ
...

XBL GT: xX ShadowAxx Xx 

PSN ID: Bytehoven

Battle Log: Bytehoven  

Bytehoven is offline  
post #27 of 56 Old 01-18-2011, 04:09 PM
AVS Special Member
 
OzHDHT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: The Antipodes aka Oz
Posts: 1,267
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

Hey Oz... long time no see. I hope you weren't in the flood area down there.

Cheers

RJ
...

No mate, fortunately I'm near Sydney, no problems in this neck of the woods. Thanks for your concern though, its been horrendous for those involved. I have friends up there who where affected.

OzHDHT is offline  
post #28 of 56 Old 01-18-2011, 04:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Bytehoven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,854
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzHDHT View Post

No mate, fortunately I'm near Sydney, no problems in this neck of the woods. Thanks for your concern though, its been horrendous for those involved. I have friends up there who where affected.

Well, your friends will be in my thoughts & prayers. It definitely looked like rough going.

So what's up with you. You running the vw90?

XBL GT: xX ShadowAxx Xx 

PSN ID: Bytehoven

Battle Log: Bytehoven  

Bytehoven is offline  
post #29 of 56 Old 01-18-2011, 05:38 PM
AVS Special Member
 
OzHDHT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: The Antipodes aka Oz
Posts: 1,267
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

Well, your friends will be in my thoughts & prayers. It definitely looked like rough going.

So what's up with you. You running the vw90?

Fortunately, for my two friends one lives in an apartment near the city and was out of harms way and the other, poor bugger who just moved there had to relocated temporarily to the nearby gold coast for work -but was also in an apartment luckily, so didn't suffer any damage.

Yep have had my new calibrated VW90 up and running for about 2 weeks now. Loving it all around. I took the advice here and immediately ordered some X103s. Really like the improvement they bring and also comfort factor. Hope they end up including the VW90 in the pending firmware update.

Be keen to see what you glean from doing a 3D cal. I should take some time myself and at least run DVE and the Spears and Munsil discs through in 3D to see what I can learn on top of following the info in this thread.

OzHDHT is offline  
post #30 of 56 Old 02-03-2011, 04:10 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Maestro J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,973
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by omicronian View Post


CIH Lens Shift Limits :
The service menu has Top and Bottom limits for the lens shift, so you can set them at the 2 positions for your CIH setup, it makes changing aspect a little easier, you only have to shift vertical until it stops, then zoom until the image reaches the edge of the screen. It works both ways.
(alter service menu settings at your own risk, note your factory values... etc...)

Service Menu :
Other - Lens Shift V Top Limit
Other - Lens Shift V Bottom Limit

Possible issues:
  • The mechanical stop of the lens shift is not very accurate, it's only a circuit which kills the motor beyond a certain point.

Has anyone tried changing these figures to control CIH zooming better? Or does every 90 owner use a lens?
Maestro J is offline  
Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

Tags
Sony Vpl Vw90es 3d 240hz Sxrd Projector
Gear in this thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off