JVC RS40/X3 Calibration Thread - Page 15 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #421 of 435 Old 07-11-2012, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post


The lastest firmware version for the RS40 is 1.5. It is available for download from JVC - HERE

Anyone remember when version 1.5 was released?
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post #422 of 435 Old 07-12-2012, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Anyone remember when version 1.5 was released?

I believe it was in late June or early July 2011 (i.e., just over one year ago). Also for those that haven't already heard about it, there is a hardware update (adding a resistor) available to correct the HDMI lockup issues that some owners have. Unfortunately this requires you must ship the projector back to JVC, unless you happen live close enough to carry it in to a JVC service location.,

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post #423 of 435 Old 08-10-2012, 02:33 PM
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Ok, I need a starting point to calibrate my new X3. I know bulbs vary but I would like to enter in someone's calibration settings who has a similar environment to mine.

106" 1.1 gain screen
Projector 12' from screen
Seating 11' from screen
Total light controlled room, black wall and ceiling

I am looking for the best balanced brightest image. I like pop and brightness.

If anyone has settings they can post or point me to I would appreciate it.
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post #424 of 435 Old 08-10-2012, 02:44 PM
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Take a look at the first 3 posts of this thread. Post #3 especially will give you pre-calibration reference points.

To summarize the other discussions/suggestions throughout the thread:
Use Normal Mode, reset all other settings to default.
Set a custom gamma 0.2 points above what's desired (so for 2.2, start with 2.4)
Set black and white levels with a test Blu-ray disc such as DVE.

That's your base, then calibrate from there.
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post #425 of 435 Old 08-10-2012, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobearQSI View Post

Take a look at the first 3 posts of this thread. Post #3 especially will give you pre-calibration reference points.
To summarize the other discussions/suggestions throughout the thread:
Use Normal Mode, reset all other settings to default.
Set a custom gamma 0.2 points above what's desired (so for 2.2, start with 2.4)
Set black and white levels with a test Blu-ray disc such as DVE.
That's your base, then calibrate from there.

Thank you! Now off to the theater room.
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post #426 of 435 Old 01-28-2013, 11:41 AM
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I am grateful for this thread. I went to redo my grayscale on my RS40 and I wound up setting a couple of my offsets to a positive number in order to achieve a better grayscale. When I was done I watched a few movies and didn't know if it was the blu-ray transfers or what but my black level was raised. I then read a review of one of the blu-rays I watched and the review said it had excellent black levels. I found this thread and saw that raising offsets to a positive number can raise black levels. I then redid grayscale and left offsets at zero or below and now my black is back to excellent.

So thanks again for the tips in this thread,
Mike
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post #427 of 435 Old 01-28-2013, 11:51 AM
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Have any of you RS40 owners tried cleaning the glass that the lamp directs its light through? It was posted here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1223098/please-post-experience-of-jvc-hd750-350-550-950-bulb-lifetime-lamp-brightness-drop

Not sure if it applies to newer models but these owners claimed dramatic improvements in brightness after cleaning a hazy film off of that glass.
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post #428 of 435 Old 01-28-2013, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Have any of you RS40 owners tried cleaning the glass that the lamp directs its light through? It was posted here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1223098/please-post-experience-of-jvc-hd750-350-550-950-bulb-lifetime-lamp-brightness-drop

Not sure if it applies to newer models but these owners claimed dramatic improvements in brightness after cleaning a hazy film off of that glass.

My previous RS50 had a noticeable gassing film on the lens, but it didn't really affect the brightness even after I cleaned it.

gassing.jpg


gassing1.jpg
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post #429 of 435 Old 01-28-2013, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

My previous RS50 had a noticeable gassing film on the lens, but it didn't really affect the brightness even after I cleaned it.

gassing.jpg




gassing1.jpg

No difference at all? Is it a easy surface to scratch? Interesting considering the wild claims in them other thread. I looked when's swapped out my 002 lamp for the 003. Used a flashlight at different angles but it seemed clean and I hate cleaning optics. Better left alone if possible IMO. It was nice and bright, even too bright. But now at 100 not as bright. Not dim, probably just normal break in. But it's temping to give it a shot. Just wanted to see if anyone with a newer model saw a difference.
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post #430 of 435 Old 01-28-2013, 06:02 PM
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I measured it with a trust-worthy light meter. I was hoping it was going to make a difference since my RS50 was one of the dimmest JVC's since the RS2.
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post #431 of 435 Old 03-27-2013, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Dave View Post

Something I've noticed in my tinkering with the RS40:


Some advice was given earlier in this thread about always going into the negatives when you adjust offset - that raising a value above zero will raise your black floor.


While this is true, using this technique created a problem for me. If you adjust offset by only using the negative values, you'll be in a position where you're either losing the last one or two black values (crush), or you'll have to increase your brightness, and the black floor will come up notably. The offset steps are much finer than the brightness steps (by maybe a factor of 10).


After calibrating, my offsets were red -12, green -8, blue 0. That crushed 17 and 18. In order to see 17, I needed to bump brightness to +1. That raised the black floor.


I started making adjustments one click at a time in offset and brightness, and found the values that gave me the darkest blacks and still allowed me to see value 17 was to set the green offset at zero (brightness also at zero), and adjust the other offsets around it. For me at least, this technique offered me the best black while still being able to see the 17 value.


I believe that advice was given elsewhere - either in this thread or in the Curt Palme thread, but at least for me I can say that this gave the best results. I didn't start there - I worked backwards from my original calibration, trying to maximize blacks and still see 17, and that's where I ended up. So at least in my experience, that technique seems valid.


One step in brightness seemed to represent roughly ten points in offset, though I didn't accurately measure that.


As always, ymmv, and please keep in mind that I'm VERY new to all this. It may be of some importance that I was adjusting one value (red) lower than green, and the other (blue) higher, so I guess I was raising the blue floor somewhat but maximized the black level of the other colours. If I was in a position where I had to adjust both other colours above green, my results may have been different.

Good post Dave,

You just gave me some insight on a problem I have been having, I have been using Chromapure with auto-calibrate with my Lumagen and RS40 and before I start I have had to adjust brightness to +2 after doing my grayscale for 100% and 30%. I knew not to use positive offsets as I did before and this raised my black floor. Well this time I had negative values for offsets and when using the pluge pattern I had to set brightness to +2 and picture would calibrate fine but my blacks weren't inky like they had been before calibration. After reading your post tomorrow I am just going to go into service menu and do a factory reset and just use the gain for red and blue for 100% white point and let the autocal dial everything else in as this should give me my inky blacks back.

Thanks,
Mike
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post #432 of 435 Old 06-18-2015, 11:26 PM
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I am having difficulty getting a stable gamma profile with my X3. The bulb is an original bulb and has approx 450h on it. Is brightness stability an issue with the v1 bulbs once the hours get to where mine are, or is there likely to be another problem?
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post #433 of 435 Old Yesterday, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sithuk View Post
I am having difficulty getting a stable gamma profile with my X3. The bulb is an original bulb and has approx 450h on it. Is brightness stability an issue with the v1 bulbs once the hours get to where mine are, or is there likely to be another problem?
Yes, when I had this projector my bulb was good til about 500 hours then it dimmed quickly and died at around 510 hours. The v1 bulbs are crap. Once you get a new bulb that has the metal flapper you should be fine.


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post #434 of 435 Old Today, 09:58 AM
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^haha, nope, not really. I had an original bulb that was garbage.
Also had 2 other bulbs with the metal flapper that both died very prematurely.
My 4th bulb (with flapper ) has been working well now for several months, so maybe 4th times charm, or something like that.

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...Theater Room Setup...
JVC DLA-RS40-U... Oppo BDP-105D... Toshiba HD-XA2... Uverse VIP-2250... Roku Streaming Stick... Emotiva XPA-3... Onkyo TX-SR805
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post #435 of 435 Old Today, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
^haha, nope, not really. I had an original bulb that was garbage.
Also had 2 other bulbs with the metal flapper that both died very prematurely.
My 4th bulb (with flapper ) has been working well now for several months, so maybe 4th times charm, or something like that.
Dave,

Yikes, I didn't know bulbs with the metal flapper were also causing problems as mine worked fine. Glad now that I sold projector.

Mike
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