JVC RS40/X3 Calibration Thread - Page 15 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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Old 07-11-2012, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post


The lastest firmware version for the RS40 is 1.5. It is available for download from JVC - HERE

Anyone remember when version 1.5 was released?
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Anyone remember when version 1.5 was released?

I believe it was in late June or early July 2011 (i.e., just over one year ago). Also for those that haven't already heard about it, there is a hardware update (adding a resistor) available to correct the HDMI lockup issues that some owners have. Unfortunately this requires you must ship the projector back to JVC, unless you happen live close enough to carry it in to a JVC service location.,

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Old 08-10-2012, 03:33 PM
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Ok, I need a starting point to calibrate my new X3. I know bulbs vary but I would like to enter in someone's calibration settings who has a similar environment to mine.

106" 1.1 gain screen
Projector 12' from screen
Seating 11' from screen
Total light controlled room, black wall and ceiling

I am looking for the best balanced brightest image. I like pop and brightness.

If anyone has settings they can post or point me to I would appreciate it.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:44 PM
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Take a look at the first 3 posts of this thread. Post #3 especially will give you pre-calibration reference points.

To summarize the other discussions/suggestions throughout the thread:
Use Normal Mode, reset all other settings to default.
Set a custom gamma 0.2 points above what's desired (so for 2.2, start with 2.4)
Set black and white levels with a test Blu-ray disc such as DVE.

That's your base, then calibrate from there.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobearQSI View Post

Take a look at the first 3 posts of this thread. Post #3 especially will give you pre-calibration reference points.
To summarize the other discussions/suggestions throughout the thread:
Use Normal Mode, reset all other settings to default.
Set a custom gamma 0.2 points above what's desired (so for 2.2, start with 2.4)
Set black and white levels with a test Blu-ray disc such as DVE.
That's your base, then calibrate from there.

Thank you! Now off to the theater room.
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:41 PM
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I am grateful for this thread. I went to redo my grayscale on my RS40 and I wound up setting a couple of my offsets to a positive number in order to achieve a better grayscale. When I was done I watched a few movies and didn't know if it was the blu-ray transfers or what but my black level was raised. I then read a review of one of the blu-rays I watched and the review said it had excellent black levels. I found this thread and saw that raising offsets to a positive number can raise black levels. I then redid grayscale and left offsets at zero or below and now my black is back to excellent.

So thanks again for the tips in this thread,
Mike

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Old 01-28-2013, 12:51 PM
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Have any of you RS40 owners tried cleaning the glass that the lamp directs its light through? It was posted here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1223098/please-post-experience-of-jvc-hd750-350-550-950-bulb-lifetime-lamp-brightness-drop

Not sure if it applies to newer models but these owners claimed dramatic improvements in brightness after cleaning a hazy film off of that glass.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Have any of you RS40 owners tried cleaning the glass that the lamp directs its light through? It was posted here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1223098/please-post-experience-of-jvc-hd750-350-550-950-bulb-lifetime-lamp-brightness-drop

Not sure if it applies to newer models but these owners claimed dramatic improvements in brightness after cleaning a hazy film off of that glass.

My previous RS50 had a noticeable gassing film on the lens, but it didn't really affect the brightness even after I cleaned it.

gassing.jpg


gassing1.jpg
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

My previous RS50 had a noticeable gassing film on the lens, but it didn't really affect the brightness even after I cleaned it.

gassing.jpg




gassing1.jpg

No difference at all? Is it a easy surface to scratch? Interesting considering the wild claims in them other thread. I looked when's swapped out my 002 lamp for the 003. Used a flashlight at different angles but it seemed clean and I hate cleaning optics. Better left alone if possible IMO. It was nice and bright, even too bright. But now at 100 not as bright. Not dim, probably just normal break in. But it's temping to give it a shot. Just wanted to see if anyone with a newer model saw a difference.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:02 PM
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I measured it with a trust-worthy light meter. I was hoping it was going to make a difference since my RS50 was one of the dimmest JVC's since the RS2.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Dave View Post

Something I've noticed in my tinkering with the RS40:


Some advice was given earlier in this thread about always going into the negatives when you adjust offset - that raising a value above zero will raise your black floor.


While this is true, using this technique created a problem for me. If you adjust offset by only using the negative values, you'll be in a position where you're either losing the last one or two black values (crush), or you'll have to increase your brightness, and the black floor will come up notably. The offset steps are much finer than the brightness steps (by maybe a factor of 10).


After calibrating, my offsets were red -12, green -8, blue 0. That crushed 17 and 18. In order to see 17, I needed to bump brightness to +1. That raised the black floor.


I started making adjustments one click at a time in offset and brightness, and found the values that gave me the darkest blacks and still allowed me to see value 17 was to set the green offset at zero (brightness also at zero), and adjust the other offsets around it. For me at least, this technique offered me the best black while still being able to see the 17 value.


I believe that advice was given elsewhere - either in this thread or in the Curt Palme thread, but at least for me I can say that this gave the best results. I didn't start there - I worked backwards from my original calibration, trying to maximize blacks and still see 17, and that's where I ended up. So at least in my experience, that technique seems valid.


One step in brightness seemed to represent roughly ten points in offset, though I didn't accurately measure that.


As always, ymmv, and please keep in mind that I'm VERY new to all this. It may be of some importance that I was adjusting one value (red) lower than green, and the other (blue) higher, so I guess I was raising the blue floor somewhat but maximized the black level of the other colours. If I was in a position where I had to adjust both other colours above green, my results may have been different.

Good post Dave,

You just gave me some insight on a problem I have been having, I have been using Chromapure with auto-calibrate with my Lumagen and RS40 and before I start I have had to adjust brightness to +2 after doing my grayscale for 100% and 30%. I knew not to use positive offsets as I did before and this raised my black floor. Well this time I had negative values for offsets and when using the pluge pattern I had to set brightness to +2 and picture would calibrate fine but my blacks weren't inky like they had been before calibration. After reading your post tomorrow I am just going to go into service menu and do a factory reset and just use the gain for red and blue for 100% white point and let the autocal dial everything else in as this should give me my inky blacks back.

Thanks,
Mike

JVC RS600(Calibrated with Chromapure using an iD3), Stewart Cima Neve 2.35 115" diagonal screen, Lumagen Radiance XD, Darbee Darblet, Denon AVR-X7200WA(7.6.4), M&K Speakers, 6 ported 18" subs powered by 3 inuke 6000dsps, Oppo BDP-93, Roku 4, Samsung UBD-K8500 UHD blu-ray player
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Old 06-19-2015, 12:26 AM
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I am having difficulty getting a stable gamma profile with my X3. The bulb is an original bulb and has approx 450h on it. Is brightness stability an issue with the v1 bulbs once the hours get to where mine are, or is there likely to be another problem?
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Old 06-19-2015, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sithuk View Post
I am having difficulty getting a stable gamma profile with my X3. The bulb is an original bulb and has approx 450h on it. Is brightness stability an issue with the v1 bulbs once the hours get to where mine are, or is there likely to be another problem?
Yes, when I had this projector my bulb was good til about 500 hours then it dimmed quickly and died at around 510 hours. The v1 bulbs are crap. Once you get a new bulb that has the metal flapper you should be fine.


Mike
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:58 AM
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^haha, nope, not really. I had an original bulb that was garbage.
Also had 2 other bulbs with the metal flapper that both died very prematurely.
My 4th bulb (with flapper ) has been working well now for several months, so maybe 4th times charm, or something like that.
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Old 06-20-2015, 01:21 PM
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^haha, nope, not really. I had an original bulb that was garbage.
Also had 2 other bulbs with the metal flapper that both died very prematurely.
My 4th bulb (with flapper ) has been working well now for several months, so maybe 4th times charm, or something like that.
Dave,

Yikes, I didn't know bulbs with the metal flapper were also causing problems as mine worked fine. Glad now that I sold projector.

Mike
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:13 PM
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I bought an original JVC bulb (v3) with the metal flapper and I've had no issues so far.

What sort of contrast ratio are you guys getting with a calibrated unit?

Can you post your Rec709 gamut chart without signal processing / 3D LUT enabled? I'd like to see what your "stock" lamp gamut is like on standard.
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Old 08-19-2015, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sithuk View Post
I bought an original JVC bulb (v3) with the metal flapper and I've had no issues so far.

What sort of contrast ratio are you guys getting with a calibrated unit?

Can you post your Rec709 gamut chart without signal processing / 3D LUT enabled? I'd like to see what your "stock" lamp gamut is like on standard.

Just got a X3 used with presumably with a new lamp. The Standard gamut doesn't look at all good. For instance the red color looks orange.

I don't know if it has to do with the lamp or the age of the pj, but i use Wide 2 with a Lumagen atm.

I'm on holidays, but i will return soon and i can show you a Standard gamut how it looks on my pj.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Old 10-21-2016, 05:47 AM
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White balance / light output variation over warmup time

I have a new-to-me X3 with a 100hrs V4 lamp in it.

I've been trying to calibrate with Lumagen 2021 / Chromapure3. What I noticed last time I did this is that I powered on the projector, waited an hour, did the white balance adjustment and then launched the autocalibration, that by the time the autocalibration had finished the white point had shifted (less red, maybe 3-4%) and the light output has dropped (maybe as much as 1ftL), and the gamma has changed at the top end.

It is of course very watchable and I can't detect it by eye as being "wrong", but of course it can be measured.

It takes a bit over an hour for two passes of 729 points plus grayscale.

Now I understand that there is some warm-up time with this projector - hence the question of waiting 45 mins - 1 hour before watching 3D.

Has anyone measured these projectors to see how the light output / white balance behaves with respect to time? Is the above unusual?
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I have a new-to-me X3 with a 100hrs V4 lamp in it.

I've been trying to calibrate with Lumagen 2021 / Chromapure3. What I noticed last time I did this is that I powered on the projector, waited an hour, did the white balance adjustment and then launched the autocalibration, that by the time the autocalibration had finished the white point had shifted (less red, maybe 3-4%) and the light output has dropped (maybe as much as 1ftL), and the gamma has changed at the top end.

It is of course very watchable and I can't detect it by eye as being "wrong", but of course it can be measured.

It takes a bit over an hour for two passes of 729 points plus grayscale.

Now I understand that there is some warm-up time with this projector - hence the question of waiting 45 mins - 1 hour before watching 3D.

Has anyone measured these projectors to see how the light output / white balance behaves with respect to time? Is the above unusual?
Is this autocalibration on the Lumagen?

Jack
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Old 10-21-2016, 04:33 PM
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Is this autocalibration on the Lumagen?
Yes, the auto-calibration was via Chromapure3 on the Lumagen (a 3DLUT 9x9x9 cube). but the shift is not the result of the calibration (which was my first thought)... turning off the calibration still showed the shift. It really does just seem to be drift in the lamp or panels over the time then from the start of the calibration to the end.
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Old 10-26-2016, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I have a new-to-me X3 with a 100hrs V4 lamp in it.

I've been trying to calibrate with Lumagen 2021 / Chromapure3. What I noticed last time I did this is that I powered on the projector, waited an hour, did the white balance adjustment and then launched the autocalibration, that by the time the autocalibration had finished the white point had shifted (less red, maybe 3-4%) and the light output has dropped (maybe as much as 1ftL), and the gamma has changed at the top end.

It is of course very watchable and I can't detect it by eye as being "wrong", but of course it can be measured.

It takes a bit over an hour for two passes of 729 points plus grayscale.
No need to wait an hour for the projector to warm up. I usually give it 20 minutes or so. It is also possible your lamp shifted a bit since it's only at 100hrs. I don't have a RS40 anymore, but I was able to get good 125pt calibrations when I had it. The 40 was always a bit of a fussy projector.

Sounds like you know what you're doing, but never huts to put this out there again..might be one little bit of information that really helps.. ??!!

One trick I found to make sure the autocal will go smooth and quick is to make sure you're getting enough light on the screen. If the light level is too low, it will take forever to do the autocal. Does it hang for long periods of time on red(s) and the darker end of greyscale? If yes, light level is too low..

Let your projector warm up, setup your meter facing the screen, go into the raw data module and display a continuous 100% white pattern. Adjust your meter while watching the FL output (Y). When you see peak output, lock the head of your tripod down. Then adjust the iris until you get at least 14fl off the screen. If you can get 16 or so, that would be better. If you've never done this before, it will seem really, really bright.. Also make sure you set the meter at least 18 inches from the screen.

Using the "reference" patterns in the lumagen, do you manual greyscale adjustments on the projector. You have to use the reference since they bypass any processing and saved CMS adjustments in the processor. Also check your gamma and make adjustments in the projector to get as close to 2.2 as you can..do your other manual adjustments...

When everything looks good, start the autocal. Once you have enough light on the screen, you'll be amazed at how fast the autocal goes and how much better the results are. What you are experiencing is exactly the same problem I had for a while since I was trying to eyeball the light level. When I finally figured it out, slapped my forehead, said "DOH!" and used the meter to set the light level, I was blown away by the results. I'm using CP2 with the same meter and a 2041. Try the above with a two pass, 125pt autocal w/greyscale to start and see if your results are better. Then you're not waiting as long for it to finish. Shouldn't be more than 10 minutes for a 125pt calibration.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:57 AM
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Adjust your meter while watching the FL output (Y). When you see peak output, lock the head of your tripod down.
Thanks very much for your email. I was doing most of that as best practice dictates, but admit I haven't been doing this bit. Having said that, the error observed was within the same session without the probe moving, but it is always good to read wise words again!

I think I found the reason for the discrepancy seen...

I have the Lumagen hooked up with an RS232 lead connected to an RS232 - USB converter. I had observed that firing up HCFR / displayCAL brought up the Lumagen status window. It appears that actually the ArgyllCMS meter detection can often do a bit more than that - I've now observed that sometimes it is switching memories on the Lumagen... One of my memories is for a TV which has a totally different calibration. D'oh.
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