Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 3309 Old 08-17-2011, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger View Post

Maybe you can buy a new blu-ray player ? OPPO does the stretching.

So you guys are saying the Oppo 93 will do the vertical stretching and then my anamorphic lens does the horizontal? I just want to make sure my Oppo will do it before I order this PJ. tHANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
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post #272 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sithapprentice View Post

Hmm just read manual. On page 28 it says to only use Cat-7 cable for 3D emitter.

I ran Cat5e since I have a box of it.

Any problems reported when using Cat5?

Thanks

I Don't own a HW30 but a cat 7 cable contains shielding for all individual wires ensuring less electrical crosstalk. If you run long ethernet cables you might experience 3d issues depending on the sony signaling.
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post #273 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 02:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sithapprentice View Post

Hmm just read manual. On page 28 it says to only use Cat-7 cable for 3D emitter.

I ran Cat5e since I have a box of it.

Any problems reported when using Cat5?

Thanks

I think it's just easer to spec cat-7 and be "overkill" safe. I use 40' cat-5 myself. I'll update the OP to indicate a ethernet cable is NOT include.
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post #274 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 03:17 AM
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"Now What did I watch first. 3D of course. Turned the machine on and then remembered you must turn the machine off before plugging in the emitter. OK Power down. WTF The emitter comes with a female RJ45 socket and the projector has a female RJ45 socket on it for the emitter. A quick look at the manual and duy. You need a male male RJ45 cable to connect the two together and the joiniong cable is not included in the box. Fortunately I have a lot of those lying around (most with phone stuff). Only took me 15 minutes to find one. Make sure you have one handy when you unpack your unit and want to watch 3D."

Is this the norm for the other 3D projectors? If not then why would Sony set this up like this? Powering the PJ off and then returning it on seems like a way to go through the lamp faster. I thought I read a while back that a power on and off takes about 2 hours off the lamp. What has to be done when you want to go back to 2D? Also for ceiling mounted PJ's this could be a PITA.

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post #275 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 05:22 AM
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mark, was only joking as you blasted me for that when i first got mine and posted that same comment, couldn't resist.

cat 5 is what i ran and i have no issues with it.
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post #276 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgathright View Post

Is this the norm for the other 3D projectors? If not then why would Sony set this up like this? Powering the PJ off and then returning it on seems like a way to go through the lamp faster. I thought I read a while back that a power on and off takes about 2 hours off the lamp. What has to be done when you want to go back to 2D? Also for ceiling mounted PJ's this could be a PITA.

Why don't you just keep the emitter plugged in all the time?

I have my HW30 sitting on a table right now because I'm waiting for some new HDMI cables and dual wall plate (I decided to run another HDMI and get the panny BD310 so I didn't have to upgrade my AVR yet). Anyways, I had problems syncing the glasses bouncing of the screen, but I had a hard time get the emitter to sit up by itself. I'm planning on attaching the emitter directly to the projector after I get it hung up this weekend.

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post #277 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 05:28 AM
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Not sure if my post got lost in the last page, so I'll ask again

Is there a reason that the suggested settings in the OP say to use Standard as opposed to one of the Cinema modes? Don't get me wrong, it looks great, but I would like to maximize lamp life as well.

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post #278 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

Why don't you just keep the emitter plugged in all the time?...

I have to unplug and use it for my phone. Cat cable costs almost 10¢ a foot so I can't afford to have a uni-tasking cat cable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

Not sure if my post got lost in the last page, so I'll ask again

Is there a reason that the suggested settings in the OP say to use Standard as opposed to one of the Cinema modes? Don't get me wrong, it looks great, but I would like to maximize lamp life as well.

Because it gives the closest to a D65 (calibrated) picture.
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post #279 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 06:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

So you guys are saying the Oppo 93 will do the vertical stretching and then my anamorphic lens does the horizontal? I just want to make sure my Oppo will do it before I order this PJ. tHANK YOU IN ADVANCE.

I don't have an OPPO BDP-95 but page 35 and 37 of the manual:

Quote:


...Stretch – The image is vertically stretched by 1.33 times....Users of projector with anamorphic lens may find this mode helpful....For customers using a 2.35:1 “Constant Image Height” video projection system, subtitles may get cut off because they are positioned outside of the active video area. The Subtitle Shift feature can be useful to these customers. The player can shift subtitles up or down so they are displayed within the active video area....

Anamorphic lens will then do a hormonal stretch (since that is what they do ).
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post #280 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 06:43 AM
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Mark. You got it. One electronically stretches the projector actuive image to fill the entirte chip instead of wasting a portion of those very valuable pixels wasted in those nasty black bars. Now everything will look too tall and skinny. At this point one can not electronically stretch the image any wider because the chip is fully used horizontally. To make the geometry rright and fill your beautiful wide screen, one must use a lens to stretch things horizontally. The vertical electronic stretch can be performed anywhere in the chain. At the source device if the source device will do that (the Oppo 93 in your case), an external video processor if you have one that does that (such as a Lumagen), or the projector (which many projectoprs will not do for 3D because the processing chip in the projector does not have enough capacity to do it). Giove me a call if you want to discuss it. Its always a pleasure to talk with you.

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post #281 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 06:44 AM
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The emiiter doesn't bounce at all off my Dalite HP screen so I've had to mount it above the screen, strange as the emitter built in to the VW90 worked fine.
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post #282 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 06:47 AM
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Replugging the emiotter in. Normally one leaves the emitter plugged in at all times. The FIRST time you plug it in (and from there leave it in). The projector must be off and then turned on. The projector won't sense the presence of an emitter plugged in when the projector is running or is on. You gotta reboot it it so to speak to recognize the presence of the device, in this case the emitter.

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post #283 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 06:50 AM
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I found the bounce off to be problematical also though if I played around with it more it probably would work by bouncing it off. In my case, I just placed the emitter at the top of the screen. Once again, in any case you will need a male male RJ45 terminated cable, one does not come with the Sony.

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post #284 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 06:54 AM
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Seriously considering this unit for my first projection system. I don't go see many 3D movies (actually only seen one...Kung Fu Panda2 3D with my nephews) and don't have a 3D TV. My wife indicated if we're going to do a BIG screen setup which 3D benefits from more than say a 50" 3D TV that really doesn't pull you into the experience, then let's do it on this projector purchase. So, in 2D mode, this Sony seems to be spectacular. In 3D it's also quite good. I'll also be in a limited light controlled room, but almost always view movies at night (no kids). I understand this is a fairly bright projector? What about screens for 3D, anything special or just a good silver or grey screen? I'm slowly learning about projectors, but now having to pick up more info on 3D with this one. I've been frequenting projectorcentral for their calculators, etc.
My room is the living room at 14' wide x 17' deep (20' including cabinets) and 10' tall ceilings, all light or white paint. The projector will be ceiling mounted near the rear at ~14' throw distance. Any issue with vertical lens shift and 3D? Viewing distance is about 12'-13'. I'm leaning towards a 100"-106" sized screen that'll fit nicely between my ideal front main speaker positions that are out from the walls. The screen will be a fully recessed ceiling mounted tab tensioned unit just out in front of my plasma. Any great concerns on y'alls part?

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post #285 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

Because it gives the closest to a D65 (calibrated) picture.

So is everyone running in Standard or are people using other picture modes? I'm just suprised that Standard is the best picture, when I've gathered from many reviews on all sorts of projectors say to run in on of the cinema/movie modes.

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post #286 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmarsden View Post

The emiiter doesn't bounce at all off my Dalite HP screen so I've had to mount it above the screen, strange as the emitter built in to the VW90 worked fine.

I have seen this in a review:

TIP: If you experience any 3D Transmitter strength issues go into the Service Menu (Enter, Enter, Left, Enter and Up) and under Other change the 3D Transmitter from 0 to 1

I probably won't try it unless I just can't get it to bounce in normal mode. I really don't want to run CAT5 from my projector to screen as I'll have to install a cable raceway.

Just in case anyone doesn't know, DO NOT change anything else in the Service Menu (without knowing what you are doing), other wise you may have major issues.

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post #287 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 07:32 AM
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Thanks for the tip.

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post #288 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

So is everyone running in Standard or are people using other picture modes? I'm just suprised that Standard is the best picture, when I've gathered from many reviews on all sorts of projectors say to run in on of the cinema/movie modes.

Sorry, Cinema 1 is the more correct mode. I mistyped and have corrected the OP. Thanks.
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post #289 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

Sorry, Cinema 1 is the more correct mode. I mistyped and have corrected the OP. Thanks.

Heh... I was actually quite impressed with the Standard mode, I was just suprised... I'll change my config tonight...

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post #290 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 08:53 AM
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I posted this over in the screens forum, but since it's also HW30 related, I'll see if anyone here has any ideas:

I have a 120" 16x9 Elitescreens Cinetension 2. And no matter what I do, I cannot get the image to fit vertically on the screen. There is always a couple of inches at the top that's not being filled in (assuming that I have the horizontals filled).

Is my screen not quite 16x9? That's the only thing I can think of.

I had the issue with my old Epson HC 720, and it's the same with my new Sony VPL-HW30ES.

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post #291 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

Is my screen not quite 16x9? That's the only thing I can think of.

Take a tape measure and get somebody to help you. Measure the width carefully and as accurately as you can then convert to decimal. (e.g. 94-7/16 = 94.4375). Do the same with the height.

Divide the width by the height.

If you don't get 1.7777777777777, then your screen isn't exactly 16x9.

Being slightly off of 1.777777777777 is going to be common, but if you really have a couple of inches of un-filled space top and bottom, the result will be well off.

Examples:

Width: 94
Height: 53
Result: 1.773 (plenty close)

Width: 94.125
Height: 57.25
Result: 1.64 (way off)

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post #292 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 09:21 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

I posted this over in the screens forum, but since it's also HW30 related, I'll see if anyone here has any ideas:

I have a 120" 16x9 Elitescreens Cinetension 2. And no matter what I do, I cannot get the image to fit vertically on the screen. There is always a couple of inches at the top that's not being filled in (assuming that I have the horizontals filled).

Is my screen not quite 16x9? That's the only thing I can think of.

I had the issue with my old Epson HC 720, and it's the same with my new Sony VPL-HW30ES.

Highly doubt it's the projector. How old is the screen? Elite had a problem on some of their older screens with incorrect dims.

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post #293 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

So is everyone running in Standard or are people using other picture modes? I'm just suprised that Standard is the best picture, when I've gathered from many reviews on all sorts of projectors say to run in on of the cinema/movie modes.

All the picture modes do is automatically select various image values from the menu that you could select yourself in one of the user modes. The important thing is to have the best selections for Color Temp, Gamma, Lamp, Iris, Color Space, etc..

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post #294 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 02:02 PM
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The family and I went to the Best Buy in Peachtree City to see the Sony projector. I had been in every so often to see if they had it set up so this time I called first to make sure. I don't have much familiarity with other digital projectors, just my Sony G70 CRT and I was looking to see if I thought it might be worth switching. What I was looking for was full resolution (obviously has it), brighter, no really visible screen door (I can see it better than most), and acceptable black level. It is difficult for me to really evaluate the projector because BB uses what I believe to be the Steward FireHawk SST about 7 feet wide, which from my best esitmates of the specs is 0.6 gray with ~1.8 gain. It is well made for what it does but I think this is a terrible screen to use for evaluating a projector in the Magnolia room that can be made movie theater dark. The surface has a lot of texture to get that 1.8 gain and I think it blurs the image slightly. Also it visibly hot spots and the peak effective reflectance is about 1 only in the middle of the screen and less than 1 everywhere else.

Now with all that said, it was somewhat brighter than my G70 but I didn't come away thinking "Dang that's bright" and the black level didn't seem bad at all, but again the screen made evaluation difficult. I did a quick hand-puppet just to see the difference between the shadow and the screen so I could simulate it at home. It seems acceptable to me but without it set up in my bat cave, I cannot be absolutely sure. I was allowed to take full control over the remote and I played with all the different settings, trying not to really mess it up and make the poor guys have to reset everything. Motion flow was interesting in 2D. I mean any FI system is going to at least double the frame rate by definition so it was obvious it was on but it wasn't bad at all.

This was also my first real evaluation of 3D on a projector. I have always felt 3D had to be viewed really big and cover most of the FOV to really be worthwhile and this demo confirmed that yet again. If I want to watch 3D, I need it big. Hell, even 2D I want big but for 3D it is a must. The light output of the projector on that screen in the dark room through the 3D glasses was quite sufficient for me. We watched Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs and the effect looked good. I played around with the depth setting and it had a pretty subtle effect. My wife could not see any changes when I played with the setting. I didn't notice any ghosting, flickering, or anything else that detracted from my viewing. However, those Sony glasses really really change the image to very red or very green if you tilt you head to the left or right respetively by more than about 15 degrees. I didn't have to concentrate on keeping my head up but you aren't going to watch 3D with your head resting on your hand. Motion flow worked well in 3D except when the scene moved really really fast like in the beginning when you have a satellite view of the island and then zoom in really fast to the ground. At that point the Motion flow couldn't make good in-between frames and the 3D effect went flat and garbled for a few frames.

As a whole I liked it and would consider it getting one except that I really like Constant Image Area and without the motorized zoom, it seems like it would be a pain to switch back and forth manually. Maybe it wouldn't be too bad if I set it up where I could reach it easily.
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post #295 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 02:08 PM
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Got to see the HW30 in action today for the first time at Magnolia in Best Buy. Pretty impressed. What a mess that store is though. After the guy finally figured out how to get it working, we then noticed it seemed a bit out of focus. He was searching through all of the menus looking for the focus when I said I'm pretty sure I read it's a manual focus. So we got it focused and I noticed the projector was tilted slightly downward. I asked about that and his response was (verbatim), "All projectors will require some tilt unless you are able to mount it dead center with the screen." I said I'm pretty sure that's not true, thanks to lens shift. He then said lens shift does very little and you're better off tilting it and using keystone correction. Whatever. I had him go into the menu just to see what the keystone was set to and it was at -30. I started shifting the lens just to show him how much it can shift and he just started backpedaling about the previous projector that was mounted there...blah blah.

In any event, I think I got to see what I wanted to see. Mostly 2D. Pirates of the Caribbean (a pretty dark movie) looked really good, and the dark scenes seemed to hold up well. I think this could be a good projector for showing sports when you might need some ambient light with guests over, etc.

I also got to see 'Under The Sea 3D' which looked awesome when it actually worked, but the 3D kept going in and out. I assume it was an emitter problem, or the glasses, but since I haven't heard of this problem on here I assume it was just something with that setup. And given everything else it sure wouldn't be a surprise. They did have the emitter above the screen (tilted downward), but the guy did mention using cat5.

So I think I'm ready to order one of these bad boys (just in time for football season). I just need to get over my Sony phobia, and figure out which screen to get. I also don't like that (at least as far as anyone seems to know) there are no discrete codes for the inputs, but I suppose I can get over that. I just don't like having to set a macro to cycle through inputs...seems you don't always get the right one depending on where it was last time it was on. That is so 1995.
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post #296 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 03:20 PM
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Was I supposed to get a charge cable and wall adapter with each set of 3D glasses? I only got one charge cable and one wall adapter.

Thanks
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post #297 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 03:30 PM
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I have read that some of the emitters are located at the screen and some are located on the projector. Which way works for this one?

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post #298 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 03:46 PM
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When I was at best buy the HW30 almost sounded dead silent to me, but that was with ambient noise from the store, etc. And during the movie that was playing, I couldn't hear it with my ear 12 inches from it.

I just plugged it in for the first time, and it seems fairly noisy, but my room is dead silent with no other noises. Sounds like a noisy PC fan. I'm attaching a video of it, hopefully it works. You can very faintly hear the fan noise, but it's louder than that in the room.

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/20/qg0.mp4/

Also, I have the question above regarding charge cable for the 3D glasses, did anyone else only get one cable, and one wall adapter as well?
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post #299 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roshy View Post

When I was at best buy the HW30 almost sounded dead silent to me, but that was with ambient noise from the store, etc. And during the movie that was playing, I couldn't hear it with my ear 12 inches from it.

I just plugged it in for the first time, and it seems fairly noisy, but my room is dead silent with no other noises. Sounds like a noisy PC fan. I'm attaching a video of it, hopefully it works. You can very faintly hear the fan noise, but it's louder than that in the room.

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/20/qg0.mp4/

Also, I have the question above regarding charge cable for the 3D glasses, did anyone else only get one cable, and one wall adapter as well?

hmm.. I just watched your video and can't really hear anything once you stopped talking. Mine is nearly dead silent, a bit quieter than my JVC. Do you think something isn't right?

I only received 1 charger. I guess since it only takes 1/2 hour, they figure you don't need 2. I have a friend over the other night and needed both ready to go, so I grabbed a blackberry charger and it worked fine.

also, I am bouncing the emitter off my 142" HP screen and not having any problems with glasses sync. I am going to go into the service menu and turn up that setting that was posting just for the heck of it .


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post #300 of 3309 Old 08-18-2011, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roshy View Post

When I was at best buy the HW30 almost sounded dead silent to me, but that was with ambient noise from the store, etc. And during the movie that was playing, I couldn't hear it with my ear 12 inches from it.

I just plugged it in for the first time, and it seems fairly noisy, but my room is dead silent with no other noises. Sounds like a noisy PC fan. I'm attaching a video of it, hopefully it works. You can very faintly hear the fan noise, but it's louder than that in the room.

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/20/qg0.mp4/

Also, I have the question above regarding charge cable for the 3D glasses, did anyone else only get one cable, and one wall adapter as well?

Mine was a little louder then I expected the first time I turned it on yesterday, but then when I turned it on a second time I couldn't hear it at all. I'm not sure what the deal was, maybe because I set it to low lamp, but the fans were still going for high lamp the first time I had it on.

Also I only got one charger/adapter for the glasses, and if you take a look at William's picture in the first post, he did as well... So I think it's normal

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