Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 115 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3421 of 3444 Old 04-13-2015, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post
Unfortunately I'm seeing this one my second bulb also

On the second bulb it started around 600 hours and now at 850 its much more frequent.

I've not been reading the forums much but do the more recent models (50/55, etc) have a high early failure rate?

Makes me think twice about another Sony. Which is sad as otherwise it has been very good.

I got 2000 hours on my old Sanyo under the same viewing conditions.
I can tell you right now that all higher end bulb units suffer from flicker at one point or another so going with another company is not going to rid you of this issue. Luckily laser is right around the corner and there are currently several LED projectors to choose from if flicker bothers you quite a bit.
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post #3422 of 3444 Old 04-13-2015, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post
Unfortunately I'm seeing this one my second bulb also

On the second bulb it started around 600 hours and now at 850 its much more frequent.

I've not been reading the forums much but do the more recent models (50/55, etc) have a high early failure rate?

Makes me think twice about another Sony. Which is sad as otherwise it has been very good.

I got 2000 hours on my old Sanyo under the same viewing conditions.
I'm on my third bulb, and this one has had the "flicker disease" much more frequently than the first two. Flickering began at or before 500hrs, but changing from low lamp to high lamp or vice versa usually got rid of it. At about the 1200hr mark, that trick seemed to stop working, and the flicker was often present, regardless of the lamp setting. I was sure it was about to blow, so I ordered another lamp from AVS.

That must have cured this lamp, as it quit flickering and is now at 2286hrs.

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post #3423 of 3444 Old 04-13-2015, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MrPlastic View Post
I'm on my third bulb, and this one has had the "flicker disease" much more frequently than the first two. Flickering began at or before 500hrs, but changing from low lamp to high lamp or vice versa usually got rid of it. At about the 1200hr mark, that trick seemed to stop working, and the flicker was often present, regardless of the lamp setting. I was sure it was about to blow, so I ordered another lamp from AVS.

That must have cured this lamp, as it quit flickering and is now at 2286hrs.
Can you clarify what cured the lamp? I didn't follow...
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post #3424 of 3444 Old 04-14-2015, 05:15 AM
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Can you clarify what cured the lamp? I didn't follow...
Sorry. I didn't do anything besides switching between high/low lamp. I was trying to be funny and say that the lamp straightened up its act when it saw me order an extra and thought it was being replaced.

In a nutshell, the gist was, "These lamps seem to flicker a lot. Keep switching between low and high settings and you'll most likely get the rated life or more."

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post #3425 of 3444 Old 04-14-2015, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MrPlastic View Post
Sorry. I didn't do anything besides switching between high/low lamp. I was trying to be funny and say that the lamp straightened up its act when it saw me order an extra and thought it was being replaced.

In a nutshell, the gist was, "These lamps seem to flicker a lot. Keep switching between low and high settings and you'll most likely get the rated life or more."


Thanks. I've tried that... for 100 hours and the problem just keeps coming back. And by "back" I meant it will flicker in either low or high mode. Is that what you saw?
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post #3426 of 3444 Old 04-14-2015, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post


Thanks. I've tried that... for 100 hours and the problem just keeps coming back. And by "back" I meant it will flicker in either low or high mode. Is that what you saw?
Yes, flicker occurs in either mode. *Usually*, switching from one mode to the other will temporarily cure the flicker. When I ordered the replacement bulb above, the mode-switch trick didn't seem to be working. After a couple of weeks, it finally went away on its own. I think it was in high mode for quite a while, but so much switching went on that I can't remember for sure. (And I was so happy when the flicker stopped that I didn't want to change anything.)

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post #3427 of 3444 Old 04-19-2015, 01:46 PM
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How do you switch the low or high setting? I don't see a setting for this.

Also are there any deals for lamps? Being I am retired and the projector is in our living room I am having to get new lamps once a year.
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post #3428 of 3444 Old 04-20-2015, 10:46 AM
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How do you switch the low or high setting? I don't see a setting for this.

Also are there any deals for lamps? Being I am retired and the projector is in our living room I am having to get new lamps once a year.
Menu >> Picture >> Cinema Black Pro >> Lamp Control

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post #3429 of 3444 Old 05-19-2015, 06:27 PM
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What happened to my HW30ES?

lamp hours = 530hrs

now the color all gone wrong, can't properly display a good red and with calibration can only get gamma of around 1.4
can only get around 6fl on a 120" (gain 0.97) white screen from 14 foot (low lamp), high lamp maybe can get 8fl

the wide color setting of "red"

normal - pink
wide 1 - pink
wide 2 - orange
wide 3 - too saturated red

arggg....the projector being calibrated using a xrite color-meter and calman software

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post #3430 of 3444 Old 06-01-2015, 07:59 AM
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Discrete input select codes for Harmony?

Has anybody been able to get direct input access with a Harmony remote control for the HW30ES? I know the HW30ES supports direct input selects, but Harmony doesn't have those codes in their database (probably because the HW30ES remote does not have direct input buttons). I'm finding the Harmony sometimes gets confused on inputs (even though I am only using HDMI-1 in all activities), so it sometimes switches to the wrong input and then I have to manually go one-by-one through the inputs to get it back to HDMI-1.

My former VPL-HW10 did not have this problem (it had direct inputs on its remote and Harmony had them in their database).
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post #3431 of 3444 Old 06-02-2015, 05:47 AM
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I have the Harmony ONE and it gets the correct input and if it doesn't the HELP button takes care of it. Not sure about direct input access but if I need to I can choose the 'input' button on the ONE to manually change it.

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post #3432 of 3444 Old 06-02-2015, 06:26 AM
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I have the Harmony ONE and it gets the correct input and if it doesn't the HELP button takes care of it. Not sure about direct input access but if I need to I can choose the 'input' button on the ONE to manually change it.
Thanks. For the most part, my 880 gets it right, but every once in a while it changes projector inputs (even though every activity I have defined only uses HDMI-1). I can fix it by hitting the "help" button, then scrolling through the questions to the projector input and then hit "no" 3 or 4 times until it scrolls through all the inputs to loop back to HDMI-1. I don't mind doing this myself, but when my wife or son or a guest is using the theater it is not easy for them to fix even though the Harmony "help" button guides them through it.
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post #3433 of 3444 Old 07-10-2015, 11:58 AM
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Just a quick note, mostly to Craig who hooked me up with a B-stock unit a few months ago: I finally got my screen and projector mounted yesterday and took it for a spin. I found the set up to be relatively painless once I found the selection for flip and reverse image. Initially, I had the projector tilted down and essentially forgot about lens shift until this morning. A little work on that and the image is squared up and looks quite sharp. I haven't checked convergence other than to hit the button on the remote to align the image with the screen, but I'd say this unit looks to be fine with no visual issues at all. Yay! Since this is my first projector, I'm not going to notice much anyway. I popped in The Dixie Chicks VH1 storytellers on bluray to give the wife the first experience last night and it was a smashing success. So thanks again Craig, you and AVS came through with not only a great deal, but with a no-issues unit that pleased the Mrs. on first view. I even got nice unsolicited kiss this morning for my "effort" and "hard work" setting up "our theater." ;{
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post #3434 of 3444 Old 07-15-2015, 06:36 PM
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I've been scrolling the pages of this thread looking for various recommended setting and it is a surprisingly vapid thread with pages of posts about peoples complaints and very little useful information. So for those of you that also picked up a B-stock unit this year, what are you using for your 3d settings and can someone tell me how to check lamp hours?
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post #3435 of 3444 Old 07-16-2015, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Niles Crane View Post
I've been scrolling the pages of this thread looking for various recommended setting and it is a surprisingly vapid thread with pages of posts about peoples complaints and very little useful information. So for those of you that also picked up a B-stock unit this year, what are you using for your 3d settings and can someone tell me how to check lamp hours?
The settings are determined by taking readings specific to your surroundings. There was a review for this model on-line and they listed their stettings - I took them. I didn't change any defaults in the 3D settings.

Go to Menu - and press up to ...crap - I'm at work and forget - it's one of the first two link at the bottom of the menu screen that'll show you the lamp hours.

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post #3436 of 3444 Old 08-14-2015, 01:10 AM
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Hi,

Can anyone guide me to factory reset my HW30ES?
I think the auto iris stop working, nothing change for whatever mode I select, be it Auto 1, Auto 2, Manual or Off.
Wanna try to reset and check if that can revive the iris....it's like watching a year 2009 LCD TV now with bad black and color....

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post #3437 of 3444 Old 08-14-2015, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mpyw View Post
Hi,

Can anyone guide me to factory reset my HW30ES?
I think the auto iris stop working, nothing change for whatever mode I select, be it Auto 1, Auto 2, Manual or Off.
Wanna try to reset and check if that can revive the iris....it's like watching a year 2009 LCD TV now with bad black and color....
Well, I'll be interested if anyone has information about that.

I haven't thought about full reset of my HW30 but my previous Sony SXRD PJ (VW60) had reset functions for mostly user settings. Settings you would find in the service menu was often referred to as Service Data and there was no reset for it.

In the service manual that I used to have there was a section on "Generating the Factory Data." If some major boards were replaced then a table of data was used first and a few items adjusted with instruments after that to fill in the service or factory data.

I'm thinking this hasn't changed... and there is no key sequence to start over so to speak for the HW30. ... I believe there is a upper level reset and I can go search for it.. that would get your color and tint type settings back to default... Just using the reset function in whatever "mode" you are in should do that.

I can't imagine anything like that bringing an IRIS back to life...

I do know in the service menu you can turn the iris off to adjust it so flipping that value off and back on may help. Or turning it off and adjusting it's stop and start points... that could make it move (I imagine) and if it moves it may start working again.

-Brian
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post #3438 of 3444 Old 08-14-2015, 02:48 AM
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A quick google for reset showed what's likely already given in the user manual.
You can reset the picture and other options to the factory preset using the reset button and menu option.

Sony_VPL-HW30ES_reset_menu

Select RESET from Picture menu
When the sub menu appears, select YES using the left arrow key followed by the middle key.
This resets the following to their factory preset value:
Cinema Black Pro
Motionflow
Contrast
Brightness
Color
Hue
Color Temp
Sharpness
Expert Setting
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post #3439 of 3444 Old 08-14-2015, 02:55 AM
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Hey,

(Still posting about the full reset to fix iris notion 2 posts above this)...

If you've never been in the service menu then the reset that's available should be the equivalent of a factory reset.

Also,... Have you tried using the manual iris? ... The manual iris settings should let you open and close and if those do nothing then you may have a mechanical problem with the IRIS or just a loose connection.

Edit - IN you post you said that no IRIS setting did anything but I suggest going to manual and trying to use different values like 0 or 100 ... if they IRIS doesn't respond at all to that then the problem is verified.

-Brian
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post #3440 of 3444 Old 08-18-2015, 10:42 AM
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Quick Q,

I just got the 'clean filter' message and was wondering if I can just, well, clean it. Or if I need to purchase a new one?
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post #3441 of 3444 Old 08-18-2015, 10:58 AM
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Quick Q,

I just got the 'clean filter' message and was wondering if I can just, well, clean it. Or if I need to purchase a new one?
Clean it and reinsert, good as new.
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post #3442 of 3444 Old 08-18-2015, 11:01 AM
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Clean it and reinsert, good as new.
Cool. Thanks!
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post #3443 of 3444 Old Yesterday, 09:33 PM
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Hey,

(Still posting about the full reset to fix iris notion 2 posts above this)...

If you've never been in the service menu then the reset that's available should be the equivalent of a factory reset.

Also,... Have you tried using the manual iris? ... The manual iris settings should let you open and close and if those do nothing then you may have a mechanical problem with the IRIS or just a loose connection.

Edit - IN you post you said that no IRIS setting did anything but I suggest going to manual and trying to use different values like 0 or 100 ... if they IRIS doesn't respond at all to that then the problem is verified.

-Brian
Thanks Brian.

The service menu doe not have any factory reset button.
Have do minor adjustment to the OPEN IRIS and CLOSE IRIS numbers, it seem that the IRIS is back on but still not as good as before. The black a lil better but still sucks.

Was offered a new HW55ES around $2,000, a good buy?
When will the replacement model for HW55 out? will it be a budget 4k model?

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post #3444 of 3444 Old Today, 03:21 AM
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Hey,

Personally I wouldn't buy the 55ES to replace the 30ES.

They are just too close in performance... You may not be able to tell the difference.

However, I'm only basing that on things that I have read... I haven't actually had or even seen the 55ES. I have no doubt it's better but I would try to move from the 30ES to a 4K pj. (And that could take a while before it makes economical sense.)

If you see the 55 and like it's perf than I guess it would make sense... esp if you could sell the 30ES for half.


-Brian
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