Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 117 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3481 of 3507 Old 11-23-2015, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Kiding View Post
My HW30ES projector has issue with the brightness, the picture is washed out! reducing brightness setting didn't help, the contrast is terrible and no black level at all, grey-scale test failed!

I have reset all settings to default, lamp hours is 680 hours, does anyone know how to fix it?

Thanks
Sorry to hear. Not much activity here anymore as the HW30 is 4 years old.

What does grey-scale test failed mean? You mean instead of a ramp of 16 or so gray values, it's all the same?

How does it look without any source connected and you bring up the built in screen/options? Is the text displayed normally or does it look bad?

I hope I'm wrong, but if it looks bad without any source connected then you may be in for a repair. If the text looks normal, you should consider checking our input source.
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post #3482 of 3507 Old 11-23-2015, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post
Sorry to hear. Not much activity here anymore as the HW30 is 4 years old.

What does grey-scale test failed mean? You mean instead of a ramp of 16 or so gray values, it's all the same?

How does it look without any source connected and you bring up the built in screen/options? Is the text displayed normally or does it look bad?

I hope I'm wrong, but if it looks bad without any source connected then you may be in for a repair. If the text looks normal, you should consider checking our input source.
I use colorHCFR and x-rite meter to perform greyscale calibration, I was not able to get 2% above black bar in the IRE 0 to disappear! and the greyscale calibration result is terrible!

Without source connect, the blue background is light blue, the pattern color is dark green, text is displayed normally and clear, just the entire image is washed out and very low contrast! I have changed two media players (popcorn hour A200 and Apple TV) and also tested with my laptop, all were having same issue!
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post #3483 of 3507 Old 11-23-2015, 07:13 AM
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Did you do all your calibration from the user menu or did you tweak from the service menu?
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post #3484 of 3507 Old 11-23-2015, 08:43 AM
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Hey Kidding,

Assuming your not just Kidding with your posts, What's your location maybe someone near by could take a look.

-Brian
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post #3485 of 3507 Old 11-24-2015, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post
Did you do all your calibration from the user menu or did you tweak from the service menu?
I did the calibration from the user menu

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Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post
Hey Kidding,

Assuming your not just Kidding with your posts, What's your location maybe someone near by could take a look.

-Brian
Thanks for the help, but I stay in Malaysia, I don't think there is anyone in this forum nearby my location

Actually I'm going to send to Sony local service center, I suspect it could be due to severe light leakage. I projected it to white wall and I could see the lights on the outer edge of full HD image.
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post #3486 of 3507 Old 12-13-2015, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post
Don't know the answer. However, if you are happy with the image, I'd not replace the lamp. I would clean the filter either way. New lamp comes with new filter...
So, the warning is pretty much a function of lamp hours?

I noticed that the greys aren't great. Not sure if this is real or just an imagination.
Could this be a sign of a lamp needing replacement?

BTW. How easy is it to get a genuine replacement?
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post #3487 of 3507 Old 12-13-2015, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by metropole View Post
So, the warning is pretty much a function of lamp hours?

I noticed that the greys aren't great. Not sure if this is real or just an imagination.
Could this be a sign of a lamp needing replacement?

BTW. How easy is it to get a genuine replacement?
I don't know if anyone knows for sure. I do know that my lamp has been poor (flickering) and needed replacement and the PJ didn't tell me to replace it. I suspect it's by hours but I honestly don't know.

Trivial to get a genuine replacement. Call Mike @ AVS... Great guy.
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post #3488 of 3507 Old 03-19-2016, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiding View Post
My HW30ES projector has issue with the brightness, the picture is washed out! reducing brightness setting didn't help, the contrast is terrible and no black level at all, grey-scale test failed!

I have reset all settings to default, lamp hours is 680 hours, does anyone know how to fix it?

Thanks
I have the exact same problem with my unit. Very washed out image (like a white veil) in bright scenes. Dark scenes aren't washed out but the contrast is very low.

The PJ environement hasn't changed since I got it (at around 700hrs, 2nd hand). Filter and lens are kept clean. Isn't temp. related as ambiant is low and the pj has unobstructed cooling vents & setting the fan on high doesn't do a thing.

Tried fiddling with contrast & brightness controls but couldn't get a satisfying solution. For ref, i'm in Cinema 1 stock mode with auto 1 / slow iris (tweaked to 250 - 500 by service menu, but reverting to stock values doesn't fix anything)

I suspect the lamp is failing.

It's the PJ first lamp, around the 1500 h mark.

Lamp started flickering badly in low mode at around 1200h which was resolved by going to high mode.
Now the lamp starts to (seldomly) flicker in high too.

I have bought on ebay an LMP-H202 bare bulb (from Disc****merc**, a supposedly Philips authorized-reseller) for $60 ex. shipping. No need to cash in high $$$ for the plastic bits the lamp is attached to...

I'll get back to you if this fix the problem.


TL;DR: i think lamp is bad. Replacement on the way. Will post results.
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post #3489 of 3507 Old 03-30-2016, 12:39 PM
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Arrow

well, that was indeed the lamp. 100% fixed.

a few notes:

Bulb fitting in the stock lmp-h202 housing is very, very easy.
Really not worth splurging for an original sony or even alternate housing unless you are afraid of using a screwdriver !


As @kscleo already hinted in this thread, the newer (& genuine) philips top c uhp bulb suitable for the lmp-h202 got a longer arc than the original one (which was 0.8mm and is no longer available -except old stock).

My bet is that the 0.8mm is no longer produced because of the (way too) many arc-wandering (=flicker) instances seen on low hour bulbs (some flickered as low as 300hrs !!)

Nonetheless, I will still burn-in the new bulb in high only mode for the 1st 100hrs. I won't touch 3D mode either because of the shady bulb-pulsing drive mode it uses. Better get those electrodes well struck before going in low ;D !
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post #3490 of 3507 Old 04-09-2016, 09:12 PM
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My Monster 3D glasses is dead. Any suggestions on replacement?

Thanks.
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post #3491 of 3507 Old 04-09-2016, 11:11 PM
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My Monster 3D glasses is dead. Any suggestions on replacement?

Thanks.
PS3 3D Glasses.

Theater Setup: 5.2.5 (10.1 Auro3D) / ~3100 cu.ft. / Vaulted Ceiling
Projector:JVC DLA-X570R Screen:SI Performance Series 16:9 100" Source Player:Oppo BDP-103D/UDP-203 Pre/Pro:Marantz AV8802A Amps:Emotiva XPA-5(Fronts/Surrounds) and BasX A500(Heights) Fronts/Surrounds:Sonus Faber Venere 2.0 Center:Sonus Faber Venere Center Front/Rear Heights:Definitive Technology PM1000 / ProCenter1000(VOG) Subwoofer:Dual SVS SB-2000 Speaker Wire:Monoprice CL2 12-AWG w/Bananas ICs:BlueJeanCables/Mediabridge
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post #3492 of 3507 Old 04-10-2016, 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by pacman9270 View Post
PS3 3D Glasses.
That's what I use.

I think the monster glasses are better though. I get reflections in my PS3 glasses and I think the monsters shielded them.

Optima glasses are made by the company who made the monsters
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post #3493 of 3507 Old 04-10-2016, 09:53 PM
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Thanks Pacman9270 and Brian.

I remotely recall in a previous post that the Estar 3D glasses might be similar to Monster, but couldn't locate the post now. I am wondering whether it is this one?

http://www.amazon.com/EStar-America-.../dp/B00D39AUCI

Joseph
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post #3494 of 3507 Old 04-11-2016, 08:20 AM
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Why go so expensive with the glasses? Is there that much of a difference?

Theater Setup: 5.2.5 (10.1 Auro3D) / ~3100 cu.ft. / Vaulted Ceiling
Projector:JVC DLA-X570R Screen:SI Performance Series 16:9 100" Source Player:Oppo BDP-103D/UDP-203 Pre/Pro:Marantz AV8802A Amps:Emotiva XPA-5(Fronts/Surrounds) and BasX A500(Heights) Fronts/Surrounds:Sonus Faber Venere 2.0 Center:Sonus Faber Venere Center Front/Rear Heights:Definitive Technology PM1000 / ProCenter1000(VOG) Subwoofer:Dual SVS SB-2000 Speaker Wire:Monoprice CL2 12-AWG w/Bananas ICs:BlueJeanCables/Mediabridge
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post #3495 of 3507 Old 04-11-2016, 08:51 AM
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Why go so expensive with the glasses? Is there that much of a difference?
I think the monster/estar/optima glasses control reflected light better. But I've gone to all PS3 glasses for my setup. They are cheap and easy going.
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post #3496 of 3507 Old 04-21-2016, 11:39 PM
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Hey guys. Would anyone here be able to tell me how the HW30ES compares to the HW55ES or even the Epson 5020UB/5030UB in terms of black level? Is there a slight difference or are we talking night and day? There's definitely a big difference in the price so I'm wondering if I should pull the trigger on the cheaper HW30 or rather wait for the newer models to drop in price (this will be my first projector). Also I'm assuming the 30ES must have a better black level than the 40ES thanks to the DI? My setup will be in a light controlled room so black level is definitely a big deal
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post #3497 of 3507 Old 04-22-2016, 11:35 AM
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Depends on what you're paying. I love my 30ES. Saw a 40ES and 55ES and they look great but I believe mine looks just as good. HOWEVER, I do have a Darbee connected to mine to help improve contrast. I believe they are a little brighter as well.
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Theater Setup: 5.2.5 (10.1 Auro3D) / ~3100 cu.ft. / Vaulted Ceiling
Projector:JVC DLA-X570R Screen:SI Performance Series 16:9 100" Source Player:Oppo BDP-103D/UDP-203 Pre/Pro:Marantz AV8802A Amps:Emotiva XPA-5(Fronts/Surrounds) and BasX A500(Heights) Fronts/Surrounds:Sonus Faber Venere 2.0 Center:Sonus Faber Venere Center Front/Rear Heights:Definitive Technology PM1000 / ProCenter1000(VOG) Subwoofer:Dual SVS SB-2000 Speaker Wire:Monoprice CL2 12-AWG w/Bananas ICs:BlueJeanCables/Mediabridge
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post #3498 of 3507 Old 04-22-2016, 11:37 AM
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Also, IMHO, I Epson's don't look good in Cinema mode. Unless you are putting the Epson in a bright room, I would steer away from them. But there are a ton of people who rave about their projectors.
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Theater Setup: 5.2.5 (10.1 Auro3D) / ~3100 cu.ft. / Vaulted Ceiling
Projector:JVC DLA-X570R Screen:SI Performance Series 16:9 100" Source Player:Oppo BDP-103D/UDP-203 Pre/Pro:Marantz AV8802A Amps:Emotiva XPA-5(Fronts/Surrounds) and BasX A500(Heights) Fronts/Surrounds:Sonus Faber Venere 2.0 Center:Sonus Faber Venere Center Front/Rear Heights:Definitive Technology PM1000 / ProCenter1000(VOG) Subwoofer:Dual SVS SB-2000 Speaker Wire:Monoprice CL2 12-AWG w/Bananas ICs:BlueJeanCables/Mediabridge
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post #3499 of 3507 Old 05-31-2016, 07:32 PM
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Hi all

i will buy used HW30ES
but I need to change the bulb

i see LMP-H202 bulb with Different Prices
124$ From amazon HERE
142$ HERE
322$ ! HERE
145$ HERE
142$ HERE
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post #3500 of 3507 Old 06-02-2016, 06:11 AM
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Hi,

Did anyone record the default service menu settings for panel drivers?

I think I did but at this point I have no idea where that information is.

When I calibrate I adjust the panel drivers as well as the bias and gain settings and now I'm curious about where they generally were before I started tweaking.

My panel Driver settings are R 95 G95 B55. I'm not advocating these numbers I'm instead trying to ask others in order to find out how for out of the ball park those numbers are. I get a fine calibrated image and stuff... I'm just wondering if those are very far from typical defaults.

The HW30 is my forth Sony PJ and the second digital SXRD PJ. I had a great time with my VW60 and eventually had the service manual which I didn't use for much but it was handy in figuring out how the "default" values were established at service centers when boards were replaced.

I'm tempted to order the Service manual for the HW30 just to have and I found 2 websites that claim to have it. One place it's $10 and the other looks better but it's $17. Sony recommended a third site called TrueManuals and I"m waiting to get a quote from them.

-Brian

Last edited by Brian Hampton; 06-17-2016 at 02:50 AM.
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post #3501 of 3507 Old 09-27-2016, 11:40 AM
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Hey,

I was planning to host a movie night soon so I just did a calibration of my HW30ES.

I used HCFR to get a basic Grey Scale RGB balance and opened up the color to WIDE3. Then, I used DisplayCAL to to automated calibration and the results are the best I've ever seen in my own HT.

I attached the calibration report from DisplayCAL if anyone is interested. If you can use DisplayCal I highly recommend it !
Attached Files
File Type: zip Measurement Report 3.1.6 — madVR — 2016-09-27 12-22.html.zip (33.1 KB, 27 views)
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post #3502 of 3507 Old 01-04-2017, 10:23 AM
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Hi all

I'm having an issue with the power on. Please help.

Status of the bulb:
First bulb, ~1500 hrs on full mode.

Problem:
The projector powers on normally without any questionable beeps or red lamps, fans work fine. BUT -> there is no picture. There is "no" light coming out the objective. I mean there is but it's so weak, I can look right into it with no problems. I can barely see the light on my palm 10 cm away from the objective. No picture is recognizable.

Prehistory:
About a month ago it was very hot outside (and inside) like 33°C and I had used the projector for about 3-4 hours, which is not nearly the longest time it had ever been on. Then suddenly a red warning came up with something like "overheat, shutting down in 1 minute" (don't remember what exactly, didn't mind the warning). After the project had turned off I waited a couple of hours for it to cool down. After that, the project refuses to show the picture.

Approach to the problem:
In the first place I thought it was the bulb, so I ordered a cheap one from China (LMP-H201 if anybody knows) to be sure. The result was the same as with the original bulb.

Please, help me. Maybe the original bulb has really reached its life end and the one I bought is broken too (it looks creepy and almost doesn't fit in). I don't want to spend money on another bulb to find out that the project is broken.

I'll provide you with any information you need, just help me please
Hi there,
searching the internet I cam across you posting on this forum, I have exactly the same projector and the same problem.
Have you found the solution or cause of it?
Have you contacted Sony service center and have they done any diagnostics?
Looking forward to your reply,
Many thanks
BR
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post #3503 of 3507 Old 01-10-2017, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post
Sorry to hear. Not much activity here anymore as the HW30 is 4 years old.

What does grey-scale test failed mean? You mean instead of a ramp of 16 or so gray values, it's all the same?

How does it look without any source connected and you bring up the built in screen/options? Is the text displayed normally or does it look bad?

I hope I'm wrong, but if it looks bad without any source connected then you may be in for a repair. If the text looks normal, you should consider checking our input source.
Hi, do any of you guys have a version of imagedirector that works on VPL-HW30ES?
I have tried 3.1, it connects, reads and displays the model in the lower right corner, but doesn't read any GAMMA profiles from the projector.
Many thanks
BR
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post #3504 of 3507 Old Today, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dob10 View Post
Hi, do any of you guys have a version of imagedirector that works on VPL-HW30ES?
I have tried 3.1, it connects, reads and displays the model in the lower right corner, but doesn't read any GAMMA profiles from the projector.
Many thanks
BR
Dob
Hello guys. I need your help. I just purchased a full HW30AES with 3d glasses, and only 60 hours of use. But the device to my surprise has the very bad image. The black levels are poor, very washed image, without definition and sharpness. Even after spending a lot of time trying to make adjustments with various settings, gamma, setting of LCD panels, Cinema1 Cinema2, resetting video settings etc. I can only believe that the device is faulty. For I also find it very strange that the projection has leaks of light around it. I made the menu setting called "Blanking" which is similar to the Panasonic PT-AE4000 called Masking but does not solve the problem. Look at the pictures I took.















I have a Sanyo Z-3000 and a Pana AR100 and both projectors have the image far superior to Sony and this can not be correct! Unfortunately I did a negotiation in which I can not return the device to the seller. Will I need to ship it to the manufacturer?
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Is the PJ or the 40ES still worth it?
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post #3506 of 3507 Old Today, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jokerbrazil View Post
Hello guys. I need your help. I just purchased a full HW30AES with 3d glasses, and only 60 hours of use. But the device to my surprise has the very bad image. The black levels are poor, very washed image, without definition and sharpness. Even after spending a lot of time trying to make adjustments with various settings, gamma, setting of LCD panels, Cinema1 Cinema2, resetting video settings etc. I can only believe that the device is faulty. For I also find it very strange that the projection has leaks of light around it. I made the menu setting called "Blanking" which is similar to the Panasonic PT-AE4000 called Masking but does not solve the problem. Look at the pictures I took.















I have a Sanyo Z-3000 and a Pana AR100 and both projectors have the image far superior to Sony and this can not be correct! Unfortunately I did a negotiation in which I can not return the device to the seller. Will I need to ship it to the manufacturer?
It's likely the panel has degraded. I suppose it's possible it only had 60 hours on it since there have been reports of out of box failures but IMO it's unlikely the 60 hour 'mileage' is correct.
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post #3507 of 3507 Unread Today, 05:40 PM
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It's likely the panel has degraded. I suppose it's possible it only had 60 hours on it since there have been reports of out of box failures but IMO it's unlikely the 60 hour 'mileage' is correct.

The projector was very new. Remote control is still in the plastic as new. Eventually the device may have been purchased at 1 year, but it was very little used. Is it possible to degrade panels in new projectors with little use? Or just on projectors with more time to buy and little use? What puzzles me is this large light leak around the projection area. This can not be normal right?
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